Daylilies: A Low-Maintenance Landscape Plant

Daylilies: A Low-Maintenance Landscape Plant

Daylillies in bloom. Image Credit UF IFAS

Daylillies in bloom. Image Credit UF IFAS

The daylily is a popular flowering perennial that adapts well to Florida landscape statewide.  Plants are available in a wide variety of growth habits, flower shapes and colors, including yellow, orange, red, pink, and purple, near white and shades and combinations of all of these.  Flowering starts in March for early-season bloomers while late-season daylilies won’t bloom until mid-May.  Select early and late-season bloomers to extend the flowering season.  The typical bloom period is about four to seven weeks, although some varieties bloom even longer.

Daylilies are members of the lily family, in the genus hemerocallis; “Hemero” is Greek for “day” and callis for “beauty”.  The flower buds and petals are edible raw, boiled, stir-fried, steamed, or batter and fried.  Dried daylily petals, call “golden needles”, are used in numerous Chinese dishes.  The modern varieties of daylilies have been developed from native Chinese spices.  Early settlers from Europe and Asia brought many of the original species with them to America.  During the last 75 years, hybridizers in the United States and England have made great improvement in daylily varieties.

Raising daylilies is fairly simple, but first you have to make sure you’re choosing the right varieties for our area of the state.  Daylilies are classified into three groups according to their growth habits – deciduous, semi-evergreen, and evergreen.

As you might expect, the deciduous daylily varieties die back in the winter.  They do well in our area.  But they don’t receive enough cold weather in South Florida.  On the other hand, the evergreen varieties generally grow best in areas with mild winters.

Daylilies may be planted any time of year, but hey usually do best if they’re planted right after flowering.   Once they’re established, these lilies need only minimum care.

Proper planting bed preparation is a critical factor in raising daylilies. They are replanted only every five to ten years, so the flower bed needs to have a soil of good quality.  The lilies grow best on a well-drained soil with good aeration and good water holding capacity.  Sandy soil usually provides the necessary aeration, but they don’t hold water very well.  On the other hand, clay soils have good water holding properties, but they don’t provide the aeration lilies need.  If your soil is sandy, you need to add two to four inches of peat moss and work it into a depth of sixth to eight inches.  If your soil has a great deal of clay in it, you might want to add about an inch of perlite or similar material to increase aeration.

Prior to planting, the flower bed should be fertilized with several inches of a good compost, or 8-8-8 / 10-10-10 mixture, at the rate of two-and-a-half pounds per 100 square feet.  An inch or so of water should be applied once or twice a week until the plants are well established.  Twice each year, fertilize with the same two-and-a-half pounds of 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 per 100 square feet.  Apply the fertilizer evenly, keeping it off the foliage.

Daylilies have a tendency to become crowded, and when this happens, flowers production is reduced.  If crowding occurs, you’ll need to divide to the plants by digging them up and severing the Rhizome between the fans of leaves with a sharp knife.  Cut the leaves back to within four to six inches of the crown and replant the division.

Daylilies can be planted in a variety of ways to enhance your landscape in informal groupings, in small groups in the space between shrubs or in front of a fence or wall which will serve as a background.

Mexican Sycamore – Platanus mexicana

Mexican Sycamore – Platanus mexicana

Mexican Sycamore, Platanus mexicana.

Mexican Sycamore, Platanus mexicana.

Mexican sycamore (Platanus mexicana) is a fast growing, drought tolerant tree boasting smooth white-and-tan bark and large maple-like leaves with velvety, silver undersides. Native to northeastern and central Mexico, this tree’s cold hardiness is not well defined. However, Mexican sycamore grows well as far north as USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 8b in Texas and Florida.

Mexican sycamore is slightly smaller than our native American sycamore (Platanus occidentalis). While known to grow up to 80 feet or more in the wild, Mexican sycamore typically reaches a mature height of 50 feet in the landscape with a width of about 30 feet. The tree is deciduous with an upright rounded crown. Mexican sycamore grows best in full sun and is adapted to most soils, including alkaline soils. While considered drought tolerant, best success occurs when plants are irrigated until established.

The lobed, maple-like leaves are up to 8 inches wide and olive-green, sometimes turning yellow before falling in December. Leaf undersides of mature trees (at least 4 to 6 years old) develop short, dense, whitish hairs resulting in an attractive silvery appearance. The large leaves can be a nuisance if they fall where leaves must be raked. Like the American sycamore, the aggressive roots and relatively large mature size of this tree suggest it not be used near structures and pavement or under power lines.

Closeup of the silvery underside of a Mexican Sycamore leaf.

Closeup of the silvery underside of a Mexican Sycamore leaf.

Male and female flowers are borne separately on the same plant from December through February and appear as greenish balls hanging from the branches. Aggregate-like fruit about 1 1/2 inches in diameter follow in April through August.

Mexican sycamore is resistant to bacterial leaf scorch, which can be a problem on American sycamore. This bacterium causes leaves to curl and turn brown and may eventually kill American sycamore. Two occasional fungal diseases affecting Mexican sycamore are anthracnose and powdery mildew. Anthracnose causes moderate to severe leaf drop during cool, wet springs. Initial symptoms are light brown areas forming along the veins of new leaves; if severe, anthracnose can cause cankers as well as leaf drop. Powdery mildew appears as a whitish dust on leaves.

Sycamore lace bugs may feed on leaf undersides in late summer and fall. The feeding results in a stippled appearance on the top of the leaf and black spots of feces on the underside. So far, observations of this tree in Florida suggest infestations of sycamore lace bugs are not as severe as on American sycamore. Aphids may also feed on leaves; they cause little damage to the tree but exude honeydew upon which sooty mold grows and turns leaf surfaces black.

Mexican sycamore is an attractive, smaller statured alternative to American sycamore. Unfortunately, it is not commonly grown by Florida nurseries and may be difficult to find.

Platanus mexicana (Mexican sycamore) has not yet been evaluated using the IFAS Assessment of Non-Native Plants in Florida’s Natural Areas (http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/assessment/). Without this assessment, the temporary conclusion is that P. mexicana is not a problem species at this time and may be recommended.

Success with Houseplants: Watering Correctly

Success with Houseplants: Watering Correctly

flowering houseplants

Flowering Houseplants. UF IFAS photo by Mary Derrick.

Plants add color, interesting textures and, of course, beauty to our indoor living environments. The air is freshened with the oxygen they provide.

Keep them healthy by watering correctly. Plants have differing water requirements so take a moment to look up some good research-based information on your particular plants and find out what kind of watering regime is best for them. For most houseplants, it’s time to water when the top inch or so of soil is dry to the touch. Some do best when they dry considerably before watering, like succulents, while others, like cineraria, like to stay evenly moist. It may help to group your plants by their water requirements so you can better remember and manage their watering needs.

When it is time to water, make sure to water thoroughly so that excess water drains from the pot. There are several really good reasons to follow that practice. First, a thorough watering allows all the soil and roots to be moistened and you avoid having dry spots in the soil. Also, when the excess water drains, it takes with it the excess salts from fertilizers. When excess salts build up over time, the roots can be damaged and the plant can eventually die. One of the first plant symptoms is brown, dead tips of the leaves. A definitive sign of excess salt is a white mineral build up around the inside edges of the pot or on the surface of the soil. If you already have a salt build-up, you can water heavily a few times to help leach the salts or re-pot your plant with some fresh potting soil.

One last tip – once you water your plants, don’t let the pots and the roots sit in water. Dump out any standing water.

For more information, please see:

Solutions for Your Life: Houseplants

Gardening Solutions: Salt Build-up in Houseplants

Virginia Extension: Indoor Plant Culture

 

 

Preventing Heat Stress: Plant and People Considerations

Preventing Heat Stress: Plant and People Considerations

Expect typical heat and humidity east of the Apalachicola River with hotter temperatures west.  http://www.accuweather.com/en/weather-video/video-summer-2014-forecast-highlights-drought-severe-weather-increase/3520160310001

Expect typical heat and humidity east of the Apalachicola River with hotter temperatures west.
http://www.accuweather.com/en/weather-video/video-summer-2014-forecast-highlights-drought-severe-weather-increase/3520160310001

As we begin to approach our North Florida hot summer months, Gary Wade with the University of Georgia College of Agriculture and Environmental Sciences Cooperative Extension reminds us that, “temperatures in the high 90s and several weeks without rain can lead to serious, sometimes fatal, conditions for landscape (and garden) plants“.  Most likely, we will also experience extreme temperatures in June and July. Under these conditions, heat stress is a great concern for both plants and people in the landscape or garden. Remaining hydrated is key to preventing heat stress.

For plants, mulching is an effective means to conserve moisture in the soil. It also cools the plant root zone, and helps to control weeds. Removing weeds that are growing around desirable plants will also help reduce soil moisture losses.

Consider watering your garden or landscape early in the morning. This method takes advantage of cooler morning temperatures, which can extend soil moisture conditions thus making soil moisture available during the hottest times of the day.  Early morning watering will also discourage disease problems on plants susceptible to fungal growth such as lawns, roses, and cucurbits.

The best time to work in the garden or landscape is during the morning hours. To beat the heat, stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water.  Heat stress disorders develop when the body cannot shed excess heat.  Heat stress, heat exhaustion, and heat stroke are illnesses that can overcome you when your body is unable to cool itself.  For more information and resources on how to “Beat the Heat”, visit the UF IFAS Solutions page.

Ref: Wade, G.  2013.  Heat, Drought Take Toll on Landscape Plants.  University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences Cooperative Extension.

Take-All Root Rot

Last summer’s heavy rain and the stress of January’s icy weather have contributed to widespread outbreaks of Take-All Root Rot, a soil-inhabiting fungus Gaeumannomyces graminis var. graminis that causes yellow grass patches ranging in diameter from a few inches to more than 15 feet. The symptoms first appear in the spring, but disease can persist all summer and survive the winter. Over time the entire area dies as the root system rots away.

 

The pathogen is naturally present on warm-season turfgrass roots. High rainfall and stressed turfgrass trigger the disease. Because the roots are affected, they are not able to efficiently obtain water or nutrients from the soil, nor are they able to store the products of photosynthesis, which result in the loss of color in the leaves. By the time the leaf symptoms appear, the pathogen has been active on the roots for several weeks, probably longer; potentially years. If the turfgrass is not stressed, leaf symptoms may never be observed.

 

This disease is very difficult to control once the above-ground symptoms are observed. Measures that prevent or alleviate stress are the best methods for controlling the disease. Any stress (environmental or man-made) placed on the turf weakens it, making it more susceptible to disease. Remember, that every maintenance practice, fertilizer application, and chemical (especially herbicide), application has an impact on turfgrass health.

 

Cultural practices that impact the level of stress experienced by a lawn include: proper turfgrass species selection; mowing at the correct height; irrigation timing, frequency and volume; fertilizer nitrogen and potassium sources and application quantities; thatch accumulation; and soil compaction issues. The selection of turfgrass species should be based on existing soil pH, sunlight exposure, use of the area and planned maintenance level.

 

Mower blades must be sharp to avoid tearing of the leaves. Additionally, turfgrasses that are cut below their optimum height become stressed and more susceptible to diseases, especially root rots. When any disease occurs, raise the cutting height. Scalping the grass damages the growing point. Raising the cutting height increases the green plant tissue available for photosynthesis, resulting in more energy for turfgrass growth and subsequent recovery from disease. If an area of the lawn has an active fungus, washing or blowing off the mower following use will reduce the spread of the disease to unaffected areas.

 

The amount of water and the timing of its application can prevent or contribute to disease development. Most fungal pathogens that cause leaf diseases require free water (rainfall, irrigation, dew) on the leaf to initiate the infection process. Irrigating every day for a few minutes is not beneficial for the turfgrass because it does not provide enough water to the root zone, but it is beneficial for turfgrass pathogens. It is always best to irrigate when dew is already present, usually between 2 and 8 a.m., and then only apply enough water to saturate the root zone of the turfgrass.

 

Excessively high nitrogen fertility contributes to turfgrass diseases. The minimum amount required for the grass species should be applied. Potassium (K) is an important component in the prevention of diseases, because it prevents plant stress. Application of equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium is recommended for turfgrass health. When turfgrass roots are damaged from disease, it is beneficial to apply nutrients in a liquid solution. However, nitrate-nitrogen increases the severity of diseases, so their use should be avoided when possible. Ammonium-containing fertilizers are the preferred nitrogen sources. Heavy liming has also been linked to increases in Take-All Root Rot. Since most turfgrasses can tolerate a range of pH, maintaining soil at 5.5 to 6.0 can suppress the development of the pathogen. When the disease is active, frequent foliar applications of small amounts of nutrients is necessary to keep the turfgrass from declining.

 

Additional maintenance practices that need to be addressed are thatch removal and reduction of soil compaction. Excessive thatch often causes the mower to sink which can result in scalping and reducing the amount of leaf tissue capable of photosynthesizing. Thatch and compacted soil prevent proper drainage, resulting in areas remaining excessively wet, depriving root systems of oxygen.

 

Since recovery of Take-All – damaged turfgrass is often poor, complete renovation of the lawn may be necessary. Removal of all diseased tissue is advised. As a native, soil-inhabiting pathogen, Take-All-Root-Rot cannot be eliminated. But, suppression of the organism through physical removal followed by proper cultivation of the new sod is critical to the establishment of a new lawn. Turfgrass management practices, not chemicals, offer the best control of the disease.

 

It is acceptable to use fungicides on a preventative basis while rooting in the sod. Azoxystrobin, fenarimol, myclobutanil, propiconazole, pyraclostrobin, thiophate methyl, and triadimefon are all fungicides that can be utilized to prevent disease development while having to excessively irrigate newly laid sod. Ideally, the turf area should be mowed and irrigated prior to a fungicide application. Unless the product needs to be watered in, do not irrigate for at least 24 hours after a chemical treatment. Do not mow for at least 24 hours, to avoid removal of the product attached to the leaf blades.

 

Now that we have added another major stress with the recent heavy rain, it will be very important to continue monitoring the turf and being cautious about the cultural practices being used. Take-All Root Rot is likely to flourish. Do not encourage its development.