The Art of Propagating Yarrow: A Guide to Successful Growth

The Art of Propagating Yarrow: A Guide to Successful Growth

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is a versatile and resilient herbaceous perennial known for its feathery foliage and clusters of vibrant flowers. Propagating yarrow is a rewarding endeavor that allows gardeners to multiply their plant stock and enjoy its numerous benefits. This guide will explore the various methods of yarrow propagation, shedding light on the steps to ensure successful growth.

Understanding Yarrow

Before delving into the propagation techniques, it’s essential to have a basic understanding of yarrow. This hardy plant is native to Europe and Asia but has adapted well to various climates around the world. Yarrow boasts fern-like leaves and flat-topped flower clusters that can be white, pink, yellow, or red, depending on the variety.

Photo Credit: Alicia Lamborn

Propagation Methods

Yarrow can be propagated from seeds, providing a cost-effective and straightforward method. Collect seeds from mature yarrow plants in late summer or early fall. Sow the seeds in well-draining soil, either directly in the garden or in seed trays indoors. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs, typically within two weeks. Once seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them to their permanent locations.

Division is a reliable method for propagating yarrow while rejuvenating older plants. Divide established yarrow clumps in the early spring or fall when the plant is dormant. Using a sharp spade, separate the clump into sections, ensuring each division has both roots and shoots. Replant the divisions in well-prepared soil, spacing them appropriately to allow for future growth.

Other methods that are often used but not as popular include root cuttings and softwood cuttings.

Care Tips for Propagated Yarrow

Regardless of the propagation method used, certain care practices contribute to the success of young yarrow plants:

  • Yarrow thrives in full sun and well-draining soil. Ensure that the planting site receives at least six hours of sunlight daily and use soil that allows water to drain freely.
  • While yarrow is drought-tolerant once established, newly propagated plants require regular watering. Keep the soil consistently moist until the roots are well-established.
  • Apply a layer of mulch around yarrow plants to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
  • Yarrow generally doesn’t require heavy fertilization. A balanced, all-purpose fertilizer applied in spring can support healthy growth.

Propagating yarrow can be a rewarding process that allows both novice and experienced gardeners to expand their yarrow collection. Whether through seeds, division, root cuttings, or softwood cuttings, understanding the specific requirements of each method is crucial for success. By following these propagation techniques and providing proper care, you can enjoy the beauty and versatility of yarrow in your garden for years to come.

For more interesting facts on this plant, you can visit “yay for yarrow” | Gardening in the Panhandle (ufl.edu) or consult your local extension office. Supporting information for this article can also be found by clicking the link below Yarrow.pdf (ufl.edu).

The Summer Stress is Starting to Show in Trees

The Summer Stress is Starting to Show in Trees

It has been a hard summer climate wise and as we go into fall it is nice to start getting some relief from the heat. As the heat tones down, we are still facing a drought, which is not as severe as areas to our west but is still significant across much of the Panhandle. In our tree cover, the stress from the harsh summer this year is starting to show. You can see it in trees around the area, and it particularly seems to affect certain trees and conditions more than others. Where you are starting to see it most is in our ever-present pines, which make up the majority of our forest and tree cover in our region. If you keep a look out you may notice some pines in the areas with yellowing or brown needles or that are losing their needles. Those are clear signs of a possible bark beetle attack, which is a common issue when pines are stressed or damaged. Trees planted in the last year that are not yet fully established often show stress in a hot dry summer like this year. Even older and well-established trees in areas are showing some signs of stress from the hot dry conditions we have had this summer.  Some trees are less adapted to dryer areas and when planted off site can experience more stress in dry conditions. If you look around across the Panhandle right now you can see clear signs of stress in some trees. It becomes more evident in late summer and early fall as the accumulated stressors of summer push trees into physiological conditions that cause stress responses. The big question is what to do if you notice a landscape tree that is exhibiting signs of stress, particularly drought stress.

Pine damaged by construction equipment. Barking injuries like this can encourage bark beetle attacks. Photo Credit: Ian Stone

For pines the issue is likely to be bark beetles, of which there are several types. All pine bark beetles are native to our area and the degree of damage they do varies by species and conditions. The issue with stressed trees is that most bark beetles attack those trees. When a hot dry summer occurs bark beetle activity increases as the stressed trees become less able to fend off attacks by these beetles. Unfortunately, when bark beetles attack a pine in an area the best answer is prompt removal and disposal of the infected tree material. To protect high value trees in an area where bark beetles are active there are some injection pesticides that can prevent infestation, but once a tree has been infested and begun to show symptoms little can be done to bring it back. When bark beetles attack a stressed pine, most are effectively finishing off a tree that may have died regardless. The key is to prevent them from spreading to other pines in the area or attracting them to a stressed tree in an area. With trees already stressed in our area the big prevention option is not to damage or stress any pines already on the landscape. Most pine bark beetles are attracted to trees by chemicals in pitch and resin given off by wounds or damage. Often the stress from new landscaping projects or construction around pines can cause several to succumb to bark beetles. Your best prevention is to keep equipment well away from the tree and avoid damaging or injuring the tree, especially scraping areas of bark off. Larger and older trees can be vulnerable, as well as overcrowded trees that are too dense or overtopped by others. As the cooler weather approaches bark beetle activity should decrease along with the risk of losing a pine to these pests.

Recently constructed sidewalk. Construction activities extended well into the root zone of the tree, which can cause stress and damage. Photo Credit; Ian Stone

For other trees there are additional precautions that can be taken to lessen the potential that a tree will succumb to drought and other stress. Newly planted trees or those established in the last several years are particularly at risk and should be watered regularly during this dry period. Until rains return, a good method of slowly applying water deeply to the root zone is best. Properly applied mulch can help keep the soil cooler and moist around a newly planted tree. Drip irrigation, soaker hoses, and similar methods are best, and a method that specifically applies water slowly to the tree’s root zone gives the best results. Watering your lawn does not supply sufficient water to landscape trees, especially in drought conditions. Lawn irrigation is designed to apply irrigation needed to the top portion of the soil that is available to the grass. Trees have completely different requirements and need different watering methods and amounts. If you don’t have dedicated irrigation available and you have a tree that needs water, you can use irrigation donuts or bags. These are often a good solution for a tree that needs watering temporarily. Once a tree is well established it usually can withstand even severe drought, but during the establishment phase paying attention to water needs is critical in a summer drought like we have had.

Large established trees are also not immune from the heat and dry conditions that have plagued the Panhandle this summer. Usually when conditions change these trees recover but may abort some branches or exhibit some leaf drop while stressed. Leaf drop is a phenomenon that can occur when deciduous trees are stressed. It is a method of conserving water needs by reducing the leaf demand. Usually, the tree will recover and leaf out again fine next year. A tree may abort some branches or have some branch tips die back to make it through a rough period. Trees that are overcrowded, overtopped, or have other issues are the most at risk from environmental stress. This is why good tree selection along with proper tree care and maintenance is essential. When a hot dry summer like we have had comes along well cared for and maintained trees do best. Trees that prefer more moisture like bald cypress, red maple, sycamore, and some oaks can be planted in dryer sites, but when a severe drought comes along they often don’t have the ability to handle the moisture stress that trees adapted to dryer sites can. This is why site selection is so important, it is when we have extreme conditions that off site plantings typically suffer the worst and those can be larger more established trees.

With the cool weather hopefully we will get a reprieve and some rain soon. Given that fall is one of our dryer periods it may be likely that drought conditions could persist until early winter. Good care and tree maintenance is essential to getting your trees through stressful periods like this summer. For younger trees watering and care is essential while they get established. For older established trees avoid doing any construction or other disturbing activities around them until conditions improve. If you have trees that are exhibiting signs of decline or pest attacks call your local extension office or Florida Forest Service County Forester office. With any luck, colder weather with winter rains will be here soon and trees in our area will recover over the dormant period.

Nuttall Oak – A Great Shade Tree for Panhandle Yards

Nuttall Oak – A Great Shade Tree for Panhandle Yards

After Hurricane Michael indiscriminately felled millions of trees in the Florida Panhandle five years ago, I’ve gotten much more selective with which trees I recommend to shade-seeking homeowners.  Category 5 hurricanes don’t strike every year, or even every decade, but Michael reminded us that 150 mph+ wind events are possible, and we should choose the trees we plant accordingly.  Keeping Michael’s lesson in mind, the shade tree I’ve recommended most to area homeowners lately is the ultra-wind resistant Nuttall Oak (Quercus texana) *.

While probably not native to our area (Nuttall is native to Mississippi River Valley bottomlands and nearby Gulf Coast regions), Nuttall Oak is a well-adapted deciduous oak species perfect for the Panhandle.  The species is a strong, long-lived tree, yet also a quick grower (3-4’ per year in its youth, reaching 60-80’ at maturity).  Unlike many rapidly growing trees, Nuttall is extremely resistant to wind breakage, disease, and other disfiguring issues.  There are several Nuttall Oaks in Panhandle landscapes that survived Michael’s fury completely intact, with little more than wind-whipped leaves as evidence a storm had passed. 

10 year old Nuttall Oak in a Calhoun County landscape. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.

Nuttall is also an awesome landscape ornamental and a wildlife magnet in maturity.  The species possesses a strong central leader and a stately, upright-rounded appearance.  In summer, Nuttall leaves are large, dark green, deeply lobed, and pointed, somewhat reminiscent of our native Southern Red Oak.  In fall, trees are capable of Blue Ridge quality color with fiery orange-red foliage, though the foliage show is not as consistent year to year here as farther north.  The bark of Nuttall even has aesthetic appeal – dark and smooth in youth becoming ridged/furrowed with age.  And it’s not just people that find Nuttall attractive, several beneficial insects use Nuttall as a host plant and various wildlife (deer, squirrel, and ducks especially) are fond of the prolific, highly nutritious acorns that mature trees produce in earnest each winter. 

Finally, Nuttall is among the easiest of trees to grow and thrives in a variety of landscape conditions.  Because it’s adapted to grow in poorly drained bottomlands that are either seasonally flooded or very dry, Nuttall is very tolerant of both compacted, poorly aerated soils common in urban areas and unirrigated, often droughty soils present in many Panhandle landscapes.  However, like any tree, Nuttall Oak performs best with regular water and fertilizer for the first couple of years until established.

If you’ve been searching for a native-ish, hurricane-resistant, quick-growing, low-maintenance, wildlife-attracting shade tree for your property, Nuttall Oak is an excellent option and one I can fully recommend!  For more information on Nuttall Oak or any other horticultural topic, please contact your local UF/IFAS County Extension Office.  Happy gardening!

*Nuttall Oak was recently reclassified botanically from Quercus nuttallii to Quercus texana.

Video Feature: Learning When to Water Can Lead to a Healthier Lawn

Video Feature: Learning When to Water Can Lead to a Healthier Lawn

Your lawn will likely need supplemental water during the growing season.  Instead of setting your irrigation system to come on every few days, learn exactly when your grass needs water with Turfgrass Talk from your UF IFAS Extension Panhandle Horticulture Team.  You may then apply water when it is needed by the grass, helping to prevent turf issues from overwatering.

Herbs to Beat the Heat

Herbs to Beat the Heat

So far, the summer of 2019 has been very hot and humid. Plant heat stress was compounded due to this year’s extremely dry spring. Fortunately, there are several herbs that can tolerate drought and heat, and some even thrive on it. Here are a few herbs to think about trying this summer.

Lavender

Lavender thrives in low organic matter soils that are also well drained. Sometimes small rocks are added to the soil to improve drainage if the soil drains poorly. If the garden is mulched, make sure the mulch is several inches away from the main stem, since fungal stem rots are common in humid climates. Ed Gillman notes, in his EDIS publication FPS-337 on lavender that lavender is very sensitive to pH, and that it should be kept above 6. This is particularly noteworthy since many soils in the Florida panhandle are very acidic, at pH 5.5 or below.  Lavender grows between two to three feet tall generally, but smaller cultivars exist as well. It does not respond well to excess irrigation, so make sure it is not sited next to water thirsty plants like basil. While lavender is drought and heat tolerant, a little afternoon shade during the hottest parts of summer is welcome.

Mixed mint in raised bed, Photo by Matthew Orwat

Mint

There are many different kinds of mint available to the herb gardener, but the most common types are spearmint and peppermint. Mint thrives in the heat when well-watered and will also recover from drought conditions quickly.  When planting mint, consider segregating it from other herbs, since it tends to take over any area it’s given. Raised beds are ideal for mint since the borders of a raised bed will keep it in bounds.

Rosemary in raised bed, Photo by  Matthew Orwat

Rosemary

Like lavender, rosemary is a somewhat woody herb and can persist for several years as a “shrub” in zone 8 or higher. It is as drought tolerant as lavender and also shares its disdain for overwatering.  Several cultivars exist, such as the trailing ‘Prostratus’ cultivar.  Growers can expect blue to purple flowers in the winter on evergreen plants. For more information about rosemary, see this IFAS Gardening solutions entry.

Variegated lemon thyme leaves, Photograph by Julie McConnell, UF / IFAS

Thyme

The smallest evergreen herb that does well in Northwest Florida is thyme. Thyme doesn’t like to completely dry out, but is fairly drought tolerant and excels in rock gardens, where it can cascade down over stone. It needs well drained soil to thrive and should be sited away from competition from other plants. See this Gardening Solutions page for more information