The Art of Propagating Yarrow: A Guide to Successful Growth

The Art of Propagating Yarrow: A Guide to Successful Growth

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is a versatile and resilient herbaceous perennial known for its feathery foliage and clusters of vibrant flowers. Propagating yarrow is a rewarding endeavor that allows gardeners to multiply their plant stock and enjoy its numerous benefits. This guide will explore the various methods of yarrow propagation, shedding light on the steps to ensure successful growth.

Understanding Yarrow

Before delving into the propagation techniques, it’s essential to have a basic understanding of yarrow. This hardy plant is native to Europe and Asia but has adapted well to various climates around the world. Yarrow boasts fern-like leaves and flat-topped flower clusters that can be white, pink, yellow, or red, depending on the variety.

Photo Credit: Alicia Lamborn

Propagation Methods

Yarrow can be propagated from seeds, providing a cost-effective and straightforward method. Collect seeds from mature yarrow plants in late summer or early fall. Sow the seeds in well-draining soil, either directly in the garden or in seed trays indoors. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs, typically within two weeks. Once seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them to their permanent locations.

Division is a reliable method for propagating yarrow while rejuvenating older plants. Divide established yarrow clumps in the early spring or fall when the plant is dormant. Using a sharp spade, separate the clump into sections, ensuring each division has both roots and shoots. Replant the divisions in well-prepared soil, spacing them appropriately to allow for future growth.

Other methods that are often used but not as popular include root cuttings and softwood cuttings.

Care Tips for Propagated Yarrow

Regardless of the propagation method used, certain care practices contribute to the success of young yarrow plants:

  • Yarrow thrives in full sun and well-draining soil. Ensure that the planting site receives at least six hours of sunlight daily and use soil that allows water to drain freely.
  • While yarrow is drought-tolerant once established, newly propagated plants require regular watering. Keep the soil consistently moist until the roots are well-established.
  • Apply a layer of mulch around yarrow plants to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
  • Yarrow generally doesn’t require heavy fertilization. A balanced, all-purpose fertilizer applied in spring can support healthy growth.

Propagating yarrow can be a rewarding process that allows both novice and experienced gardeners to expand their yarrow collection. Whether through seeds, division, root cuttings, or softwood cuttings, understanding the specific requirements of each method is crucial for success. By following these propagation techniques and providing proper care, you can enjoy the beauty and versatility of yarrow in your garden for years to come.

For more interesting facts on this plant, you can visit “yay for yarrow” | Gardening in the Panhandle (ufl.edu) or consult your local extension office. Supporting information for this article can also be found by clicking the link below Yarrow.pdf (ufl.edu).

Deer Damage in the Landscape

Deer Damage in the Landscape

Many different Florida wildlife pass through a home landscape daily in search of food.  Possibly the most destructive animal to landscape plants in northwest Florida is the White-Tailed Deer.  Extensive amounts of damage can be observed after they have passed through.  This damage is not just to landscapes but also impacts agriculture crops at an economic level.

Deer walking through a landscape in Northwest Florida. Photo Credit: Stephen Greer, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County

Deer are searching for protein that can be found in many forms that may include acorns from oak trees, ornamental shrubs, flowers, and soybeans.  For this article, I will focus on landscape plants.  Deer require a significant amount of forages as adults to amass 6 plus pounds per 100 pounds of body mass on a daily basis as they attain muscle and fat.  Maintaining this level of growth is needed for quality reproductive rates and surviving the times of year, usually the winter, with less food available. Keep in mind damage is significantly lower from mid-spring to mid-summer with greater damage occurring from late-summer to late-fall.  

Deer damage to a loquat tree. Photo Credit: Stephen Greer, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County

How to make informed plant decisions before placing them in the landscape and protecting many of these plants is a big question.  There are many articles out there on selecting plants that are deer resistant or tolerant.  Resistant to deer browsing is often dependent on how hungry they are and the amount of availability of other plants they prefer near by out of your landscape.  With deer populations increasing significantly over the last few decades it has increased contact with people and the environments in which we live.  To deter feeding and other damage to the landscape, fences have been placed as barriers, offensive smelling sprays have been used, lights and sounds have been used.  The attempt is to offend more than one of the deer senses.  These tactics work for a while until they adjust to these events and find their way back.

A barrier placed over a raised bed garden. Photo Credit: Stephen Greer, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County.

Some of the favored plants for deer include hosta, daylily, holly, and maple leaves and many more.  Plants they tend to avoid are poisonous plants that include foxglove, poppies or fragrant plants from sage, salvias and bearded iris.  There are publications with extensive lists of plants not to plant as they are a preferred food for deer and much shorter lists of plants they do not prefer.  Contact your local UF IFAS Extension office for more information.

Deer, like many of the wildlife, were able to acclimate to neighborhoods and traffic settings.  This has created additional dangers for many wildlife animals and people.  The point is they are an established part of our communities.  Determining how to best manage these growing populations has and will continue to be a big topic of discussion from neighbor to neighbor, community boards, farmers, and the Florida Wildlife Commission. 

Everglades Tomato Doesn’t Disappoint

Everglades Tomato Doesn’t Disappoint

For me, tomatoes are the most difficult (and expensive) vegetable to grow. I even try to discourage people from growing tomatoes in Florida. Tomatoes are susceptible to damage from a plethora of diseases and insect pests AND they require a lot of maintenance and fertilizer. However, I now have a tomato variety I can recommend – The Everglades Tomato.

The Everglades tomato (Solanum pimpinellifolium) is a different species than the traditional tomato (Solanum lycopersicum). Other names for this tomato are the wild tomato or currant tomato. The plant produces an abundance of small tomatoes (about 1/2 inch diameter) with thin skin. Unlike most tomatoes, Everglades tomatoes keep producing throughout the heat of summer. They are even tolerant of brackish water and salt winds.

Everglades tomatoes should be cared for like any other indeterminate (vining type) tomato. Like most gardeners, I like to plant tomatoes a little deeper (two inches or so) than they were planted in the tray/pot. This allows for more adventitious roots to develop from the buried portions of the stems. I also like to trellis these plants with tall stakes and twine or some other support to improve air circulation. However, I have read that Everglades tomatoes grow just fine rambling on the ground. Make sure to give them a little more space than other tomatoes regardless if you stake them or not. Fertilize and irrigate just the same as you would for other tomatoes.

harvested Everglades tomatoes
A bountiful harvest of Everglades tomatoes. Photo Credit: Connie Gladding, Master Gardener Volunteer, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Clay County

Of course, just like any plant, Everglades tomatoes aren’t perfect. Their small size makes harvesting a little more labor intensive and their thin skin is easily torn. But I’m able to look past these faults because of their excellent flavor. I’ve also noticed Everglades tomatoes are not immune to caterpillar/moth pests. Fortunately the caterpillars only seem to feed on the leaves, because the tomatoes are so small.

Whether you’re a chef or just want a sweet snack, you should give Everglades tomatoes a try. Just search the internet for seed sources or ask a friend for a cutting.

Which are the Sturdiest Trees?

Which are the Sturdiest Trees?

Florida’s state observance of Arbor Day falls on January 21st in 2022. On this day, people are encouraged to plant trees and recognize their importance. Trees provide us with shade and shelter, filter air and water, and increase biodiversity as well as acting as a source of materials for building and industry. Half of Florida’s land area is forested and North Florida has a large timber industry. Given the importance of trees to our wellbeing and the erratic and sometimes extreme weather in our region, the question occasionally arises, “What trees are best to plant here?”.

The answer to that question depends heavily on the needs of the person asking it. A landowner looking for long-term profit from forestry may choose to plant longleaf pines, despite the risks that hurricanes pose. A homeowner desiring a shade tree, however, might want a different answer.

There are plenty of varieties of trees that grow well in the panhandle of Florida, and the further one lives from coastal areas, the greater the options. Particularly along the shores, however, choices are limited by soil types, exposure to high winds, and even salt spray. So which are the toughest and hardiest trees for our area?

A sabal palmetto.

Florida’s state tree is the sabal palmetto. Also called the cabbage palm, this palm is particularly cold tolerant, withstanding temperatures down to 15º F. Once established, they are drought tolerant and fairly resistant to pests and diseases, as well as being particularly sturdy in high winds. Though they may be thought of as “common”, this is a testament to their survivability in our climate and they should not be dismissed as an option for landscapes.

A large, old Southern live oak.

Both the Southern live oak and especially the sand live oak are exceptionally survivable trees. Sand live oak is found closer to the coast, where it tends to grow in beautiful multi-trunked forms slightly inland, or in lower thickets along the dunes. It tends not to reach the same heights as Southern live oak, but does well in the harshest of

Sand live oaks growing near the beach dunes.

conditions, lasting through almost anything nature can throw at it. Even if defoliated by heavy storm winds, these trees survive. Hurricanes claim only the occasional live oak that catch enough wind to uproot and topple the entire tree, which is not a common occurrence.

 

The bloom of a Southern magnolia.

Southern magnolia comes in many sizes, from huge old specimens to more compact cultivars such as ‘Little Gem’, which can be trained to grow as hedges. Tolerating a wide range of soil moisture, these trees are rarely harmed by disease, though scale insects often take up residence on their leaves (which rarely seems to bother the trees, even if infestations are heavy). With gorgeous and fragrant blooms in the springtime, Southern magnolia stands up in high winds and makes an excellent addition to a landscape.

For more information on trees that do well in storms, see our EDIS publication on the topic. Also note that native species, trees that are properly pruned, those that are well established as opposed to newly planted, and trees free of disease or damage tend to survive better in any case. Ensuring that plants of any sort are placed in the right spot can serve the landscaper well in the long run as well – see the Florida Native Plant Society’s website for help in choosing the right plants. As always, your local Extension office is available to assist with questions as well.

Florida Wildflowers – Historically Resilient

The summertime often reminds us of our uninhibited spirit. With Independence Day not far off, Floridians will be celebrating the freedom of our nation while battling the oppressive climate you can’t seem to escape this time of year. As we approach the apex of heat and humidity here in Florida, we would do well to remember the tenacity of our native wildflowers and their “spirited” survival of Florida’s extreme conditions.

Coreopsis flowers. Photo courtesy UF/IFAS.

Coreopsis flowers. Photo courtesy UF/IFAS.

Historically, Florida’s landscape was alive with color throughout the seasons. Through urbanization and cultivation we’ve lost a large part of that legacy; however, we can reestablish some of Florida’s colorful past in our own yards and neighborhoods.

In order to ensure successful planting of wildflowers it is important to properly select and prepare your site. You will want to choose a sunny-well drained area and cut any existing vegetation to the ground. It may be beneficial to put down sheets of cardboard to smother what’s left of the vegetation. This is best done in the summer in advance of fall planting.

Stokes' Aster in bloom.

Stokes’ Aster in bloom.

Planting is best done late August to early September in North Florida. Soil-to-seed contact is critical so 1 day before seeding, or just prior to seeding, firmer soils need to be lightly scratched with a rake. Sandy soils might have to be made more firm to ensure that seed do not sink too deep. Broadcast the wildflower seeds at the recommended rate then press them into the soil by walking around on the planting site.

Wildflower seeds require adequate moisture during germination. After planting irrigate the site with about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of water daily for the first few weeks. After that, irrigate with about 1/2 inch water only if the wildflowers show signs of drought stress. Once established though, the meadow needs very little, if any, irrigation. Fertilizers should be avoided altogether as they promote the growth of aggressive weeds. Many of Florida’s native wildflower species are adapted to and perform well in soils with low fertility. Your wildflowers will re-send themselves if given the opportunity so wait until seed have matured before deadheading or mowing. Cut no lower than six to eight inches to avoid damaging the crowns of grasses and wildflowers.

Native Gaillardia. Photo courtesy UF/IFAS.

Native Gaillardia. Photo courtesy UF/IFAS.

To successfully cultivate a wildflower meadow in your home landscape, it’s helpful to select plants with the qualities to fit the conditions at your site. Also, consider blooming dates of flowers in order to provide color and interest for your landscape spring through fall. While not always possible, it’s best to purchase seeds and plants known to be Florida ecotypes. Consult with local nurseries and garden centers for more information on plant and seed availability and seeding rates. You can always contact your local Extension Office for more information. Other good sources of information are the Wildflower Seed And Plant Growers Association, Inc. (www.floridawildflowers.com); Association of Florida Native Nurseries (www.afnn.org); and the Florida Wildflower Foundation (www.floridawildflowerfoundation.org).

Growing wildflowers can restore a special sense of natural history close to home. So if you are looking for an “explosion” of color that will stand the test of time, Florida’s native wildflowers will not disappoint.