Start Fertilizing Citrus in February

Start Fertilizing Citrus in February

As you have read in other articles in this blog, it is too early to fertilize your lawn; however, this is a good time to start fertilizing your citrus to ensure a healthy fruit crop later in the year.

Orange grove at the University of Florida. UF/IFAS photo by Tara Piasio.

Orange grove at the University of Florida. UF/IFAS photo by Tara Piasio.

Citrus benefits from regular fertilization with a good quality balanced citrus fertilizer that also contains micronutrients. A balanced fertilizer has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium such as a 6-6-6, 8-8-8 or a 10-10-10. The amount of fertilizer to be applied will vary on the formulation; for example you will need less of a 10-10-10 than a 6-6-6 as the product is more concentrated. Always consult the product label for the correct amount to use for your particular trees. Fertilizer spikes are not recommended as the nutrients are concentrated in small areas and not able to be widely available to all plant roots.

The number of fertilizations per year will vary depending on the age of the tree. Trees planted the first year need 6 light fertilizations that year starting in February with the last application in October. In following years, decrease the number of fertilizations by one per year until the fifth year when it is down to 3 fertilizations per year. From then on, keep fertilizing 3 times per year for the life of the tree. Good quality citrus fertilizer will have accurate and specific instructions on the label for the amount and timing of fertilizer application.

Fertilizer should be spread evenly under the tree but not in contact with the trunk of the tree. Ideally, the area under the drip line of the tree should be free of grass, weeds and mulch in order for rain, irrigation and fertilizer to reach the roots of the tree and provide air movement around the base of the trunk.

If you have not in recent years, obtain a soil test from your local extension office. This can detect nutrient deficiencies, which may be corrected with additional targeted nutrient applications.

For more information:

Citrus Culture in the Landscape

 

Pre-Emergent Herbicide Now for Spring Weed Suppression

Pre-Emergent Herbicide Now for Spring Weed Suppression

Weeds grow everywhere, especially in manicured lawns and landscapes despite the best efforts of owners who have spared no expense to remove the offending flora.

The reality, at least about the herbicides, is different from perceived appearances. Herbicides can be a wonderful tool for the homeowner, if applied properly.

The first point to remember about herbicides is to always, Always, ALWAYS apply them as instructed by the label directions. The oft quoted mantra of “the label is the law” is accurate.

Herbicides and their labeling are periodically reviewed and assessed to confirm effectiveness against target weeds without damaging the environment. Not following the label directions can have many negative implications for both the environment and the applicator.

Herbicides are either selective or non-selective when killing plants. Non-selective herbicides kill or damage every plant, but selective herbicides target a narrower range of plants.

Annual Bluegrass - Image Credit Larry Williams

Annual Bluegrass – Image Credit Larry Williams

 

Never apply herbicides when there is a breeze or wind. Herbicide drift can injure or destroy plants that are not the intended target.

High temperatures can contribute to the drift problem by volatizing some of the herbicide spray. Even the lightest air movement will cause drift off the target weeds when this condition exists. Herbicide drift can also be deposited in ponds and streams, harming the aquatic creatures that live there. Some herbicides are toxic to fish, insects and other animals that can be killed by tiny amounts of the active chemical. Additionally, the off target herbicides can kill aquatic plants. When the dead plants decay, they deplete the water of oxygen, again threatening or ending the life of the water’s residents.

Rain or dew resulting from high humidity can negate a herbicide’s application. If a leaf is wet, most or all the herbicide will run off on to the soil where it can leach into the water table.

Regular herbicides work only when the plant is actively growing. Pre-emergent suppresses the growth of the weed seedling above the soil level.

Many weeds have already produced seeds for next spring. Herbicides applied now will not affect the germination of that seed months from now.

The most effective strategy is to mow weeds before they set seed or to collect and destroy those which have already produced seed. Even with 100 percent success at eliminating this year’s weed seed crop, there will be weeds next year.

Some weed seed remain in the soil, sometimes for decades, only to germinate when conditions are perfect for their sprouting. Sickle pod and crotalaria are local examples of long term seed vigor.

Other seed can blow in or be dropped by wild or domestic animals passing through the property. A pre-emergent herbicide which stops germination can help control these latent invaders.

For more information:

Weed Management Guide for Florida Lawns

Chemical Weed Management

 

Florida Master Naturalist Courses Provide Unique Perspective into Natural World

Florida Master Naturalist Courses Provide Unique Perspective into Natural World

Do you love the outdoors? Wish you knew more about the plants and animals native to our area?

Master Naturalist Jerry Patee leads classmates along his project: a wetland boardwalk in Perdido Key. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson

Master Naturalist Jerry Patee leads classmates along his project: a wetland boardwalk in Perdido Key. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson

The Florida Master Naturalist Program is a course offered by Extension agents throughout the state, including the northwestern counties. Three different modules—Freshwater Wetlands, Coastal, and Uplands—are offered. They include 40 hours of instruction time on ecosystems, plant identification, animal ecology, and how humans live within the environment. Each class includes 2-3 field trips which may entail hikes, paddling, or tours of local museums and parks. Adult students are expected to produce an educational project at the end of the course, which may vary from a display or presentation to a skit or full-blown nature trail.

Proud Master Naturalist students at their graduation. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson

Proud Master Naturalist students at their graduation. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson

Several  Master Naturalists have recently brought their projects to life. Several years ago, Charlie Lurton created a plan to build living shorelines in Bayou Grande behind homes in his neighborhood. The project was approved by state and federal environmental regulatory agencies and oyster reefs and planting have recently begun. Jerry Patee, also an Escambia County Master Gardener, worked with his church to create a boardwalk trail through wetlands to a pristine view of Bayou Garcon in Perdido Key.

Master Naturalist students vary in backgrounds from retired military and teachers to new residents and college students. Many Master Gardeners find the courses a helpful addition to their training, and utilize their newly gained knowledge when working with clientele. At completion, students receive an official Florida Master Naturalist certificate, pin, and patch. Several Panhandle courses will be offered this spring—check out the FMNP website to see when a class will be offered near you!