Setting the sprinkler head for an irrigation system. UF/IFAS Photo: Josh Wickham
Lawns and landscapes require water to flourish and provide the green surroundings desired around homes and recreational areas. Often nature provides water for the landscape in the form of rain, but that is not always adequate. Turf and ornamental plants in the establishment stage need supplemental irrigation during hotter months, especially in the sandy soils of northwest Florida, which can dry out at a rapid pace. February is typically a time when very little supplemental irrigation water is needed because most of the desired landscape plants and grasses do not use much water in the cooler temperatures. The warmth of spring and the heat of summer are around the corner and preparations should be made now to ensure that irrigation systems are working properly before being needed. Here are a few things to think about when prepping irrigation systems for spring:
Maintain, Repair, or Replace the Rotors, Nozzles, and Heads. Many sprinkler heads get damaged over time from riding lawn mowers, utility workers, vehicles, or other causes. To avoid having a geyser in the irrigation zone, it is a good idea to test run the system to make sure the rotor and heads are working properly and the nozzles have not been knocked loose. Many times broken rotor or spray heads can be replaced simply by taking the interior mechanical parts out and replacing them with new parts. This may not even require digging! Sometimes repairs are as simple as replacing a filter or spray nozzle that has popped off over time.
Calibrate the system to provide 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch during an irrigation event. Many Florida homeowners and horticultural professionals apply too much or too little water while irrigating. Most do not even know how much irrigation water is being applied. It is important to calibrate the irrigation system to apply only 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of water during an irrigation event to promote a healthy lawn and landscape. To little water will stress the plants while too much water may promote disease and insect problems. Irrigating improperly may also cause environmental issues, from soil and fertilizer runoff, to develop. Watch this short video on irrigation calibration.
Inspect and make sure the Rain Shutoff Device is working properly. In Florida, it is state law to have a rain shutoff device on an automatic irrigation system. Most systems have a device installed that utilizes a small cork disc that expands when wet and physically clicks a button to tell the system to skip the next automatic cycle. As the cork degrades over time, it will cause system malfunction and should be replaced periodically. It is best to skip using an automatic timer and instead watch the weather and the plants for symptoms of drought stress. If an automatic timer is used, a functioning rain shutoff device is essential for proper irrigation management. Other types of shutoff devices are available as well.
The following University of Florida / IFAS publications contains more information on proper irrigation management for landscapes:
While the bulk of most residential weed control programs focus on controlling weeds in turf, weeds can also be very problematic in landscape planting beds. Controlling weeds in landscape beds can be very difficult because unlike turf, planting beds typically contain several different ornamental species that can range from trees to shrubs to herbaceous annuals and perennials.
One of the most common ways to control weeds in landscape planting beds is to make “spot treatments” of glyphosate to control escaped weeds. While this method is effective, it is important to remember that glyphosate is a systemic herbicide, meaning that it can move through plant tissues. Ensure that none of the spray contacts any leaf or stem tissues of desirable plants either through direct contact or through inadvertent drift. If contact is made, the plant tissues that were sprayed will need to be washed or pruned off as soon as possible to avoid further damage. Be especially mindful when applying near species that are known to sucker near the ground such as crape myrtles. Glyphosate can also cause damage when applied to young tree bark or to some trees with very thin bark. Herbicides that have only contact action can also cause damage to ornamentals but these herbicides will not move throughout the plant and the injury will remain localized. Contact herbicides are not as effective on perennial weeds such as Florida betony (Stachys floridana) or nutsedge species (Cyperus spp.).
Nutsedge can be very difficult to control. Photo Credit: Chris Marble, UF/IFAS
Mulching is one of the safest and most effective methods of weed control in landscape beds. Coarse textured mulches (such as pine bark nuggets) are typically preferred over smaller textured mulch because they provide a less favorable environment for weed seed germination. Mulch should be applied at a depth of 2 to 3 inches for best results. In addition to controlling weeds, mulch can also help to add organic matter to the soil and help to conserve water.
In addition to mulching and some postemergence herbicides, there are many preemergence herbicides that can be used “over-the-top” of hundreds of landscape plants. The same as with all pesticides, be sure to carefully read product labels before making a peemergence herbicide application to a landscape planting bed and make sure that your equipment is calibrated properly. Do not apply granular herbicides if plant foliage is wet and do not apply when the landscape plants have tender new flushes of growth. It is important to irrigate as soon as possible after applying preemergence herbicides to wash the herbicide off of plant foliage and to activate the herbicide. More information on specific herbicides that can be used in these areas and other precautions can be found at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep523.
As a final note, never apply “weed-n-feed” or other herbicides that are labeled only for use in turf areas to landscape planting beds. In most cases, these products can cause severe damage or death to landscape plants through drift and root uptake. Always be sure that the herbicide you are using is labeled for use in landscape planting beds and labeled for use on the ornamental species you have.
With grass growing slower due to less daylight and somewhat cooler temperatures, and fertilization not needed in the lawn and landscape, landscape managers with more time on their hands undoubtedly are tempted to prune back summer perennials and ornamental landscape shrubs such as roses and crape myrtles.
Many perennials, such as hibiscus species, hydrangea, salvia species, firebush (Hamelia patens), rudbeckia, echinacea, lantana (sterile dwarf) that are meant to die to the ground each winter look ugly and decayed after the first frost. When landscape professionals are faced with wilted leaves, seemingly dead branches and lack of flowers, the temptation is to prune them to the ground. That action might be a mistake.
Hamelia patens. Dormant now but wait until February to prune back. Image Credit: Matthew Orwat
While it may be advantageous to remove dead tips from frosty die back, cutting the plant to the ground in late fall or early winter will remove stored energy for regrowth in the spring. Instead, wait to cut perennial stems to the ground till the starches have fully translocated to the roots and the stems die. This usually occurs by February, but may occur earlier. An easy method to determine this is to scratch the stem. If there is no green or yellow tissue under the epidermal layer, the plant is likely fully dormant and ready to prune back.
If your client can stand to wait, allow the stalks to remain until February. If they contain any plant nutrients, this will give the plant some energy during the winter months. When practical, follow this practice to encourage stronger flowering perennials next season.
Regarding spring flowering shrubs, methods vary depending on species. They typical rule of thumb is to prune after flowering for shrubs that bloom before May to avoid reduced flowering.
With roses, it is tempting to severely prune unsightly stems and leaves now, so the plants will look orderly and manageable. While this may make the garden more attractive now, it may cause your plants trouble. Roses pruned in early winter may regrow during bouts of warm weather. This new growth will be killed by freezing temperatures, likely before flowering occurs. Also, plants will have expended energy so spring growth will be reduced, dieback may occur, and disease may set in.
Roses will look ragged this time of year, but heavy pruning now will sacrifice spring bloom and may induce disease. Image Credit: Matthew Orwat
Instead, wait to prune roses in February, or when daytime temperatures reach 70oF for 4-5 days in late winter. This will give the plants time to translocate nutrients to the roots, and once pruned, give a more bountiful display in the spring.
Azaleas follow a different rule for pruning. They need to be pruned after the spring bloom. Pruning now or before the bloom will eliminate the bloom for the 2016 season. Instead, they need to be pruned anytime between cessation of flowering until June.
Review the North Florida Gardening Calendar to obtain additional information regarding pruning and maintenance of landscape shrubs in the winter months.
UF/IFAS Extension working with horticulture professionals scouting turf issues. Photo Credit: Blake Thaxton
Using an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach to landscape management has been an integral part of the green industry for many years. The strategies help to make pest control more efficient by incorporating multiple methods and being flexible enough to make changes where needed.
One of the most critical steps in your IPM plan is monitoring and correct pest identification. If the pest is not identified correctly, then any steps taken to control that pest will be ineffective and may also mask the original problem making it harder to get a correct diagnosis.
Correct identification does not stop at naming the pest in question. More research needs to be done to choose the appropriate management methods. Some key questions to answer are:
• What are the primary hosts in this landscape?
• How can we manage the landscape to make the pest less successful?
• What is the life cycle of the pest?
• How/where does it reproduce?
• At which stage of the life cycle are we likely to get the best control?
• Are there different strategies based on life cycle stage?
Answering these questions will help you choose appropriate control methods whether cultural, mechanical, biological, or chemical. Remember to always keep good records and modify your plan as needed.
For more information visit https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_pest_management
