This month’s program focused on Gardening Myths and Home Remedies providing clarification of commonly held beliefs and insight into homemade gardening products. Below is a summary of the program with links references.

Panelists introduction:

Beth Bolles – Horticulture agent, Escambia County (Moderator)

Donna Arnold – Agriculture and Horticulture agent, Gadsden County

Mark Tancig – Horticulture agent, Leon County

Larry Williams – Horticulture agent, Okaloosa County

Dr. Adam Dale – Associate Professor at UF, Home Landscape Entomology

  • Dr. Dale was asked about use of home products for pest control:

               He pointed out that products designed to eliminate pests are specific for that purpose. Those meant for use in the home such as Dr. Bronner’s soap are not designed as pesticides and have not been tested for that purpose. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) would tell you that it is technically illegal to use this product in that manner. There may be risks associated (to pets, humans, and plant life) with using these products as pesticides.  Specifically spraying soap-based products on plant life is that soaps are designed to strip oils including protective oils from leaves potentially causing damage to your plants 

Link: Managing Plant Pests with Soaps – https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/in1248   

  • Donna was then asked if there are organic home products which may be used to help with pests in the home landscape:

She pointed out that there are some commercially available products but they may have risks associated with them so be diligent about your research. 

These include:

Oils – Neem and Citrus which may help with soft bodied pest such as aphids.

Insecticidal Soap – May have pesticide like labels, but are not pesticides per se

Plant Extracts – Need to be thoroughly researched and some are not available in Florida.

Diatomaceous Earth – Good for soft bodied pests prone to desiccation, but not great in moist environments

Microbial Insecticides – Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), enthomopathogenic nematodes

Some products may have breakdown issues leading to phytotoxicity or may have cost/availability issues.  Products may not be labeled specifically as pesticides, but all labels should be read and followed.

Your local extension agent is a good guide toward an appropriate solution for your specific issue.

Link: Natural products for managing landscape and garden pests https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN197

  • Dr. Dale discussed natural pest control through plant selection:

To him, selecting plants which are less susceptible to pest is the key.  For example, Yaupon holly (Ilex Vomitoria) or Dahoon holly (Ilex cassine) may be a better choice for Florida landscapes than Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta) or American holly (Ilex opaca).  As a bonus, proper plant selection reduces management in your gardens. 

Link: Key plant, Key pest https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/entity/topic/series_key_plant_key_pest

  • Mark then dispelled myths surrounding using plants as mosquitos (Culicidae) repellant:

His quick answer was no, unless you were in a field of citronella (Cymbopogon nardus) and were to roll in the plants no research shows them to be effective in small scale plantings. Extracts from some of these plants do have some efficacy, but it is limited. Toward the back of the UF/IFAS Mosquito Control Guide outlines control strategies base on research. Primarily, eliminating standing water around your home including gutters which may accumulate organic matter and retain moisture is most effective. That is not to say a bird bath or rain barrel must be emptied.  A similar product to Bt is Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. Israelensis) commercially sold as mosquito dunks.  These are donuts or crumbles are designed to eliminate mosquito larvae in rain barrels or birdbaths thus breaking their life cycle.

Link: UF/IFAS Mosquito control guide https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/IN/IN1045/IN1045-4731665.pdf

  • Dr. Dale was asked a question on the efficacy of companion plantings:

He defined it as using plants which attract beneficial organisms. Beneficials are predators or parasitoids reducing or controlling pests in your landscape. This is not an all-encompassing solution but makes a big difference. The example cited was lawn landscapes with flowering plants nearby vs those that do not.  The lawns with flowering plants have about 50% more predation and parasitism of caterpillar pests reducing pest stress. 

Links were not shared during the broadcast, but here is some helpful information:

  • Larry was spoke concerning fall web worm (Hyphantria cunea):

He reemphasized Dr. Dale’s opinion that landscapes be planted with pest resistant varieties.  Fall web worm is commonly found in many fruit, flowering, and nut trees and are easily identified by the cobwebs which begin to appear in the late summer/early autumn.  This insect feeds on the leaves of these trees and tends to appear on deciduous species. This makes us worry more so than the plant does as the trees are shedding those leaves anyway. Pruning or spraying to eliminate this pest may be more detrimental to the plant than letting the insect run its course. As spring comes around and the tree puts on new leaves, they’ll appear blemish free. Better to think of them as extra Halloween decoration than treat something that isn’t causing significant damage. 

Link: Why worry about fall webworms https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/okaloosaco/2016/10/13/why-worry-with-fall-webworms-attend-plant-clinic/

  • Mark addressed corn gluten meal as weed control.

There is some research showing corn gluten meal can be effective, but only as a preemergence and even then, only on some weeds. Application to growing weeds is ineffective. For larger issues it is better to work with extension agents to establish a management plan utilizing known products. Doing so may save the effort and money applied to ineffective weed control.

Link: The myth of weed killing gluten https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/corn-gluten.pdf

  • Dr. Dale spoke to nematodes in pest management.

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic worms in soil which act as a parasitoid for soil borne insect pests. Essentially, they release a bacteria into the insect and use it to reproduce. The offspring feed on the bacteria until the host dies and the offspring is then released in the soil.  They are an effective tool in IPM but have specific environmental needs to survive.  They will most likely already be present in the soil, but there are commercial products containing them available.

  • Donna answered a question concerning lowering soil pH using sulfur.

It is a temporary fix and will be localized to the application site. Repeated applications will be needed and may cause damage to the plant life in that location. A more permanent fix is to plant appropriately for your soil conditions. These conditions may be determined through soil testing.

Link: Soil pH and the home landscape https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/SS/SS48000.pdf

  • Larry was asked about snake repellants and whether moth balls are effective in this arena

Florida has 46 species of native snakes and only a handful are venomous. Snake identification is crucial as many have beneficial aspects. A lot of mythology surrounding snakes come from fear. Snake bites should be taken seriously but are rare, and often the person is ok post bite. There are deterrence products available, and some contain the same ingredients as moth balls. The problem with these lies in their susceptibility to environmental conditions. We get lots of rain and these chemicals wash away easily reducing their efficacy. A better method is to eliminate habitat around your home. Overgrown areas and log piles fall into this category. Keep in mind, you’ll need to clean up anything attracting other animals the snakes view as prey. Finally, inspect your home for any entrances snakes may use to enter your home and eliminate these.

Link: Dealing with snakes in residential areas https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/UW260

  • Mark clarified concerns with biosolid based compost in the garden.

Biosolids are a byproduct of the wastewater treatment. At the end of the processing, there is a sludge remaining. Normally it is not recommended for any crop intended for human consumption.  The Escambia County Utilities Authority (ECUA) composts this sludge other products such as yard waste to create a product that is safe for vegetable gardens. That said, it is best to apply these 120 days prior to harvest of leafy greens or 90 days for crops not touching the ground such as tomatoes as you should with all manures. 

Links:

ECUA – http://www.livegreenecua.com/ECUA_Bloom-Product_Brochure.pdf

Washington State Univ – http://pubs.cahnrs.wsu.edu/publications/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/publications/FS156E.pdf

  • Dr. Dale was asked about vegetable oils as an alternative to petroleum based horticultural oils.

It is not a good idea to use oils other than those designed for horticulture on your plant life.  It opens that plant to potential harm as the leaf cuticle and other tissues may be inhibited from their natural processes. There is no known pesticide use for these products and they are not labeled or tested for this use.

Link: Nonchemical weed control for home landscapes and gardens https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS1170  

  • Mark spoke to using home made products using vinegar to control weeds.

There are vinegars designed for weed control, but these products are labeled and tested for this purpose. Using vinegar designed for use in the household will likely have undesired effects. Namely die off of desired landscaping for indeterminate periods. A more effective method of weed control is hand pulling.  

Link: Use of Glyphosate and herbicide alternatives https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP580

  • Larry then addressed using Epsom salts in the garden.

This may be a practice passed from neighbor to neighbor. Epsom salt is made of magnesium sulfate. Both are micronutrients needed by plants for healthy growth. The neighbor who had this trick work may have been lucky in that their plants were deficient in these elements. A better way to approach this problem is through soil testing.  These tests will show elemental deficiencies which may be used to establish a fertilizer program designed for your needs.

Link: Too much of a good thing https://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/hort/tag/epsom-salts/

  • Donna was given the question as to use of eggshells in soils

The easy answer to this is yes, but use is conditional.  The plant will have a hard time absorbing the calcium from eggshells in their whole form. Grinding the shells will help with this process. A better way may be to add them to your compost, but even with this, you’ll benefit from grinding them.

Link: Using eggshells in the garden and compost https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2018-03-28-using-eggshells-garden-and-compost

  • A question came in from facebook asking if coffee grounds acidify soil.

Mark spoke up and stated that most of the acid form coffee grounds winds up in the coffee itself, and that it is considered a “green” or nitrogenous product in composting. As most of the acidity is gone by the time they are applied to the garden, there is little effect on soil acidity but may aid soil microbiota. The key is moderation, coffee grounds should be thought of as amendments and used lightly.

  • Dr. Dale and Donna were asked about fire ant control

Grits and club soda are not effective tools for fire ant control according to Dr. Dale.  Fire ants are an invasive species that has moved into the southern portion of the country. They are aggressive and may create large mounds and if disturbed they will sting (not bite). The most effective control for them is to use insecticide specifically designed for fire ants. Broadcast or spread these around the mound. The key here is around the mound, not on top. Bait placed on top of the mound will be treated as a disturbance and cause the colony to move rather than be eradicated. Many home made fire ant controls also encourage relocation and may cause damage to your plants. The key to ants is eliminating the queen, insecticides applied according to the label are designed for this purpose.

Link: Sustainable fire ant control https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-garden/sustainable-fire-ant-control/

Gardening and pest control are surrounded with myths and home remedies. The best solution is always to find products specifically designed to resolve your specific problem. If you need help, your local extension agents are available and ready to help.

This program has been recorded and is available on facebook here: https://www.facebook.com/GardeningInThePanhandle/videos/2394148227415677

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Joshua Criss
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