When to prune a particular shrub can be a confusing practice for even the most experienced gardener. Luckily there are many plant guides to help remind us of pruning times or even a quick call to your local Extension office.
Now that we finally remember the best time to prune azaleas or French hydrangeas, the nursery throws us a loop with everblooming plants. Although not new, the Encore® series of azaleas and Endless Summer® collection of hydrangeas have the wonderful characteristic of blooming repeatedly throughout the growing season. When is the best time for pruning these repeat blooming shrubs?
In general, if you select your Encore® azalea carefully, it should need very little pruning. There are many sizes available to fit every space. Reduce your need for pruning by choosing a selection that will not outgrow your space. For example, Autumn Sangria® is a larger selection to at least 4-5 feet tall while Autumn Embers® is about 3 feet tall. If your plant needs a little selective pruning, the best time to prune is still after the first initial big bloom in April.
Encore Sangria has vivid pink flowers. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
Pruning time for Endless Summer is the same for other mophead hydrangeas even though it blooms on both old and new wood. You may selectively prune after the first bloom. It is always fine to deadhead faded blooms back to the first healthy buds.
The crown of a tree is the leaf bearing twigs and branches and the spreading green foliage that we see. A heathy, full crown is a good indication of a healthy and vibrant tree. The crown and the foliage it supports is the energy collector and the center for photosynthesis, which is how the tree produces the energy it needs to live. For a tree to live and thrive, a full crown of leaves is essential, and an unhealthy and thin crown is an indicator the tree has issues. Crown dieback is often not noticed until it is relatively severe and at that point it can be too late. If a tree drops below a certain percentage of live crown it can no longer support itself and continues to decline. The good news is that if you notice your tree is starting to show signs of crown thinning and dieback you can likely intervene to improve its health or diagnose a problem early.
Tree Showing crown dieback, note the dead branches and lack of foliage on the outer branch tips. Photo Credit-Ian Stone
Crown dieback, which is also referred to as crown decline, is a progressive issue that starts small and can progress to the point that only small sparse areas of foliage are left. It is a tree’s response to various stressors, including environmental conditions and severe rot/decay. As a response to severe stress, the tree begins to abort part of the leaves and some of the small branch tips. If the stress continues to worsen, the tree will continue to abort more of the crown, producing progressively more dead wood. The tree is essentially trying to prune itself back to a manageable level of foliage based on the stress it is encountering. This can occur in both small, young trees and mature, established trees. A variety of conditions cause the stress that begins this process. For instance, you may notice crown dieback in young trees planted in compacted urban conditions such as parking lots and paved areas. Trees in these conditions experience stress from the compacted soil and encounter subsequent issues with water and nutrient stress. Large mature trees in an area that experienced recent construction may also exhibit dieback, especially if buffers and setbacks are not maintained or significant fill dirt is brought in. Issues from root disturbance and compaction cause stress and root dieback, which in turn causes visible crown dieback. Additionally, trees that are experiencing rot, decay, and other vascular disease issues will often begin to exhibit dieback. As the rot or vascular disease progresses, the tree is less able to transport water to the crown, which results in the crown dieback that can be seen as the crown thins. Often, in cases of rot, crown dieback will be the primary visible symptom that rot is occurring, as the rot can be concealed deep in the tree. While multiple stressors can be the cause of crown dieback, it is a clear indicator a tree is stressed and in trouble. If this condition goes unnoticed, it can progress past the point that the tree can be saved. However, if noticed and caught early, good tree care techniques can be applied that may restore the tree to heath. In cases of severe rot and decay, having the tree examined may prevent structural failure of a tree exhibiting crown dieback.
If you have a tree on your property that is exhibiting crown dieback, it is a good idea to have the tree examined by a professional to determine the extent and nature of the issue. Key signs of dieback are bare branch tips and dying foliage during spring and summer. It is natural to have some dead wood in a tree, but extensive dead wood around the entire perimeter of the crown is a cause of concern. With good diagnosis, the proper tree care techniques can be applied to help a tree recover. Waiting and hoping a tree with crown dieback will recover on its own is not a good course of action. Recognizing crown dieback and taking early action is the key to success. Contacting a Certified Arborist (www.treesaregood.org ) is a good step in getting an opinion on the extent of dieback, if the tree is recoverable, and how to best address the issue. You can also contact your local County Extension Office or Florida Forest Service County Forester for assistance.
Many shrubs can benefit from a little pruning. Choosing what to prune to maintain a plant’s natural look can sometimes be a challenge. Get a few tips on pruning shrubs with cane type growth from UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
Please join us for the Persimmon Field Day on Friday, October 20th, from 8:30 – 11:30AM at the UF/IFAS North Florida Research & Education Center (NFREC), located at 155 Research Road, Quincy, FL.
This is a free field day on growing persimmons in North Florida! Attendees will be able to visit the persimmon grove to see how trees are grown, maintained, and harvested as well as sample the different persimmon varieties grown at the UF/IFAS North Florida Research & Education Center in Quincy. Light refreshments will be provided. Space is limited, so please register using the link below or by calling 850-875-7255 to reserve your spot!
Tentative Agenda:
(All Times Eastern Standard)
8:30-8:45 AM – Registration
8:45-9:00 AM – Welcome and Introduction, Dr. Muhammad Shahid, Fruit Physiologist, UF/IFAS North Florida Research and Education Center
9:00-9:05 AM – Opening Remarks, Dr. Dean Pringle, Center Director, UF/IFAS North Florida Research and Education Center
9:00-9:35 AM – Introduction to Persimmon Fruit, Dr. Muhammad Shahid, Fruit Physiologist, UF/IFAS North Florida Research and Education Center and Dr. Ali Sarkhosh, Associate Professor, UF/IFAS Horticultural Sciences
9:45-10:00 AM – Load Trolley and Travel to Persimmon Grove at UF/IFAS NFREC
10:00-11:00 AM – Persimmon Grove Walk and Talk (Persimmon Fruit Tasting and Open Discussion in the Field)
11:00-11:15 AM – Load Trolley and Travel Back to NFREC Conference Room
11:15 AM – Adjourn
For any questions, please contact Danielle Williams (dsprague@ufl.edu or 850-875-7255) or KeAndre Leaks at leaks.k@ufl.edu or 850-875-7150.
The University of Florida is committed to providing universal access to all of our events. For disability accommodations such as sign language interpreters and listening devices, please contact KeAndre Leaks, (leaks.k@ufl.edu, 850-875- 7150) at least 2 weeks in advance. Advance notice is necessary to arrange for some accessibility needs.
Anyone can prune but not everyone prunes correctly. In order to prune correctly, you need to understand how plants respond to pruning.
When a pruning cut is made on a stem or limb, new growth will develop just a few inches below the cut. This is because of a hormone that is produced in the terminal bud (the bud at the end of a branch or twig). This hormone prevents dormant buds located directly below the terminal bud from growing. So, when you routinely shear plants, a lot of dense, new growth will be produced near the outer portions of the plant. This eventually results in less light reaching the interior portions of the plant, foliage within the canopy becomes sparse and the plant appears stemmy or hollow.
Thinning generally is a better method of pruning most shrubs. Thinning is cutting branches back to a lateral branch, a lateral bud or the main trunk. Basically, a thinning cut is the complete removal of a branch or stem for the purpose of thinning or opening up the plant. Thinning encourages new growth within the interior portions of the plant, reduces size and provides a fuller, more natural looking plant compared to plants that are routinely sheared.
Keep in mind the desired results when pruning. If you plant a row of shrubs that will serve as a hedge or screen, begin pruning them the same year that you plant. Many times, people wait several years before pruning a newly planted hedge Doing so can result in little growth at the base of the plants, which means a privacy hedge that can be seen through. Because of the fact that new growth on plants only occurs a few inches below the cut, you should begin pruning early to encourage a compact growth habit.
Pruning time varies among plants. Plants that are not grown for their showy flowers such as holly, boxwood and privet can be pruned during late winter, spring and summer months. Avoid pruning during fall or early winter because the new, tender growth produced as a result of pruning will be subject to cold injury.
Plants that bloom before May such as azaleas, forsythia, spirea and climbing roses should be pruned shortly after they bloom. It is best to avoid pruning plants in this category later than July because they set flower buds in the fall.
Plants that bloom after May such as crape myrtle, gardenia, bush roses and abelia can be pruned just prior to spring growth in late February or early March.
Avoid severely pruning junipers, cedar, arborvitae and other narrow-leaf evergreen plants because it may cause them to die outright.
Tree with dead “hangers” from recent windstorms in the Panhandle. These dead broken limbs should be assessed and removed accordingly. Photo Credit: Ian Stone
Recently our area has experienced multiple severe wind events. You may have noticed some light to moderate damage to some of the trees in your yard. You may have even experienced severe damage or a complete failure of a tree on your or a neighbor’s property. While a complete failure or severe damage pose obvious hazards and need removal, it is the more minor to moderate damage that often raises questions on how to address the issue. Hanging broken branches are often called “Hangers” in forestry or tree care circles. These are often smaller to mid-sized branches which have partially broken off but are still lodged in the tree. After several weeks to a month the foliage starts to die and turn brown, and these “hangers” become obvious in trees that received damage. How do you assess these and when should you get a professional involved? Do they pose a potential health issue if not removed?
These broken limbs are becoming quite noticeable as they die and turn brown. It is important to make good decisions on how to handle these hanging dead branches and how to maintain your tree. Often these hangers are more unsightly than anything else, especially if they are small. Larger ones may pose a risk of damage or injury if they are located over a structure or may fall in an area frequented by people. Most of these hangers will break and dislodge over time, especially in wind events. You should consider the risk posed by the hanging limb, the difficulty and cost of addressing it, and the risk posed by the limb falling. For trees that got noticeable damage with several larger limbs broken, having some repair and rejuvenation pruning done is often good for tree health. You may be able to address some issues yourself if you are handy with a pole pruner and the broken limb is in reach. Anyone attempting even light tree work should be aware of risks posed by falling limbs and use of pole saws. Remember to never attempt to climb trees yourself or perform tree trimming from a ladder or height, as this is fundamentally unsafe. Even limbs which may be safely reached from the ground with a pole pruner can pose risks of injury. If you are attempting to remove some of these hangers with a pole pruner, be very cautious and use good safety techniques. You need to make sure the branch has a landing zone, and you are well clear of it when using a pole saw or pruner. Be aware of vines and other entanglements, and do not work around or within the right of way of electrical or other lines. Larger limbs and those not reachable from the ground should be considered outside the scope of homeowners and left to professionals.
Here is a quick reference guide for how to size up any broken or damaged limbs in your tree and address the situation
Small branches and branch tips with a diameter of the broken branch is 1 inch or less and the branch is hanging or lodged. These size hangers pose little risk and are mostly unsightly. They should fall out of the tree on their own over time. These may be trimmed out slightly behind the break of those within reach of a pole pruner.
Small to Medium branches-1-3 inches in diameter. The branch has partially broken or has completely broken and is lodged in another branch. Branches this size can do some light to moderate damage if they fall on a roof, fence, or other structure. If the branch overhangs areas where people or pets frequent it could cause injuries if it fails. If the branch does not pose a hazard or danger it should dislodge on its own over time. Consider removing these if they pose a risk. They can be removed from the ground with a pole pruner or pole saw but be very cautious as branches this size can easily injure someone that is in the fall zone. Consult a professional if a lift or climbing is required.
Large Canopy Branches 3 inches and larger. These are significant branches and can hold a significant amount of weight. If they are partially broken, hung, or lodged in the tree they may come out at any time and do significant damage or cause injury. These branches are beyond the tools and scope of homeowners, and the damage may require some recovery pruning to keep the tree healthy. Consult with a professional and consider having the damage removed and tree properly trimmed.
Main Branch and Trunk Failures- This is significant damage to the tree which can make it unsound or susceptible to disease in the future. If large main branches have failed, the top has completely failed, or part of the trunk has cracked or split from the damage; major damage has occurred and the tree may not recover. If your tree has suffered this level of damage consult a professional with a tree service and have a certified arborist examine the tree.
It can be hard to tell from the ground what level of damage a tree sustained until the brown foliage appears past the break. Once you can identify what type of damage occurred you can better determine what action is needed. For small branches it may be best just to wait for them to come out naturally or prune them out if this can be done safely with a pole pruner. For larger branches or more severe damage a professional is the best bet. For those hangers that pose a risk to structures or people in an area removal is best, as these could fall at any time and cause damage or injury. Remember never to attempt tree work yourself especially if it involves climbing or working from heights. You can find a certified arborist at www.treesaregood.org to address large limbs and significant damage. A good arborist can help you rehabilitate a tree that has had only moderate damage from a storm. If you are unsure of where to start with a tree that has wind damage, consult your local extension office for some advice.
