by Beth Bolles | Aug 12, 2016
Homeowners and horticulture professionals spend time to develop an attractive ornamental bed only to have weeds take over months or a few years later. One common method in the attempt to prevent weeds is to apply a landscape fabric around plants in beds and place a layer of mulch on top to dress it up. The thought is that this barrier on top of the soil will prevent a large number of weeds from emerging. The fabric physically prevents the growth of weeds form the soil below and blocks sunlight from reaching weed seeds. Available fabrics are labeled as porous to allow air and water to move through them and reach ornamental plant roots.
On paper, landscape fabric sounds like a good idea and it may work for a little while. Over time, soil particles and decomposing mulch fill up the porous spaces in the fabric which prevent air and water from reaching plant roots. Even with irrigation or routine rainfall, plant roots often do not receive the needed water and air for healthy growth. Plants may respond by trying to send roots through fabric seams which breaks down the intended weed barrier. Other plants slowly decline or may die quickly due to water stress or lack of sufficient air movement into the soil.
Fabric may initially prevent some weeds but it can also prevent air and water movement. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF Extension Escambia County
Weed seeds also find their way into the mulch that is on top of the fabric from nearby lawns and landscapes. The next thing you know, you have an entire weed crop growing in the mulch on top of your landscape fabric. Perennial weeds such as torpedograss and purple nutsedge eventually grow through fabrics.
Seeds from annuals like Chamberbitter easily get into mulch from surrounding areas and grow on top of fabrics. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF Extension Escambia County
The best place to consider fabric if you want to install it in the landscape is under mulched paths or other areas without ornamental plantings where a synthetic groundcover is needed. In order to have a healthy root environment for your ornamental bed plants, it is best to keep landscape fabric out of these areas.
by Beth Bolles | Jul 7, 2016
Many of the plants in our gardens have been developed and discovered that offer interesting characteristics. These may include leaves with variegations, dwarf growth habits, or even contorted stems. We enjoy these plant differences and many of these plants are big business in the nursery trade. In nature, it is likely these interesting plant mutations would not survive as they are less likely to be able to reproduce successfully. Horticulture professionals keep these plants available most often by propagation through cuttings and tissue culture.
Sometimes in the landscape, nature prevails and we see one of our favorite plant varieties revert back to its original or “wild” form. You may see a stem on a variegated plant that has larger leaves that are all green.
‘Butterfly’ Japanese maple has beautiful variegated foliage. One stem has reverted to an original form with large green leaves. Prune out this stem. Photo by Beth Bolles
These stems often grow more vigorously and can use nutrients and energy that the remainder of the plant needs. As soon as you see these different stems, prune them back to a connection with another stem that exhibits the plant characteristics you want.
by Beth Bolles | Jun 8, 2016
Gardeners love to share plants. My yard, like many of my gardener friends, is filled with plant gifts that were started from a cutting or division of a favorite plant. These two methods of growing new plants is fairly easy once you learn the techniques and allows gardeners a way to save a little money and grow more plants for their yard, special community projects, or even some fundraising events.
In our enthusiasm over a favorite plant, gardeners must be aware that we are not allowed to propagate certain plants from cuttings or division. Many of our ornamental plants, especially newer introductions are patented plants. These are seen as ‘premium’ plants that will hopefully be in demand by the public. The plant developer or nursery invests in the patent in hopes that the plant will become the next must have ornamental. Only businesses or individuals with authorization from the patent holder are able to asexual propagate these plants since the Plant Patent Act protects these new varieties for 20 years from the date of introduction.
So if you bought a beautiful Limelight hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ Plant patent #12,874) for your yard, you may not take a cutting to start a new plant, even if it is only for yourself.
If you want more than one Limelight Hydrangea, you must purchase it. Photo by Beth Bolles
When you visit the nursery, look on the plant label which will often indicate if the plant is patented. You may also look online to see if plant has a patent.
by Beth Bolles | May 5, 2016
Believe it or not, there is a beneficial ant that is found in many landscapes. If you see an interesting mound shaped like a small volcano, you likely have the pyramid ants. These ants form small nests in sandy soils and the mound will have a small opening in the very center.
Pyramid ant mound, about 5 inches across. Photo by Beth Bolles
Pyramid ants are not aggressive and do not sting. They are fast moving over the ground building the mound and searching for food. Ants will collect honeydew from other insects and the beneficial part is that ants hunt live insects including winged fire ants. By allowing the pyramid ants to remain in parts of your landscape, you may reduce the numbers of fire ants that can establish in that area.
When you see the distinctive pyramid ant mounds, remember the beneficial role they play in keeping pest species in check. Keep any baits away from these areas to protect the pyramid ants.
A group of small mounds. Photo by Beth Bolles
by Beth Bolles | Mar 28, 2016
The mining bees or adrenids are often seen in areas of landscapes that have little ground vegetation and loose soil. After mating, the female bee will excavate a very small tunnel in the ground that has several small cells attached to it.
Beneficial solitary bee mounds in the ground. Photo by Beth Bolles
The bee collects pollen and nectar to add to the cell and then lays a single egg in each cell. The emerging larvae feed on the nectar and pollen until it changes to an adult bee in the fall. There is only one generation a year. Although these solitary bees individually produce small nests, sometimes many will nest in close proximity to each other.
Solitary bee entering ground. Photo by Beth Bolles
Solitary bees are not aggressive and stings are quite mild. Most solitary bees can be closely observed and will elicit no defensive behaviors. Perhaps the most common stings that occur are when the sweat bee, which is attracted to moisture, stings when swatted. Males of some solitary bees, which can not sting, will sometimes make aggressive-looking bluffing flights when defending a territory.
Like the most famous honey bee, solitary bees play a beneficial role in the pollination of plants. Their activity in the spring is short-lived and no management is necessary.
