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Summer is Too Hot for Lawn Herbicides

Summer is Too Hot for Lawn Herbicides

Hot, summer months are not the time to be using most lawn herbicides.

One issue is the heat of summer. Most lawn herbicide labels include statements such as the following. “Do not apply when temperature exceeds 90°F.” “Do not broadcast apply this product when air temperatures are above 90°F (85°F for St. Augustinegrass) unless temporary turf injury can be tolerated.”

Every year lawns are injured or killed because of lawn herbicides being applied when temperatures are too hot.

Summer is usually a rainy and windy time of the year. Many lawn herbicide labels include statements such as the following. “Allow 12 hours after application before watering lawn for maximum effectives on listed weeds.” “Apply only when wind is no more than 10 mph.” “Applying this product in calm weather when rain is not predicted for the next 24 hours will help to ensure that wind or rain does not blow or wash pesticide off the treatment area.”

It is critical to read and follow the label directions and precautions for any pesticide you use. Pesticide labels, including herbicides, include the following statements. “To the extent consistent with applicable law, the buyer assumes all risks of use, storage or handling of this product not in accordance with label directions.” “It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.”

Crabgrass plant growing in centipedegrass lawn

Crabgrass growing in centipedegrass lawn. Photo credit: UF/IFAS Extension

By the time summer arrives, many of the lawn weeds are mature, which means they are well established with extensive root systems. These mature, well-established weeds are more difficult to control. The same weeds are more susceptible to herbicides when they are small, young and not well established. Also, these mature weeds have produced countless numbers of seeds by summer. Most weeds are prolific seed producers.

A single crabgrass plant (a common summer lawn weed) can produce 150,000 seeds!

Applying a preemergence lawn herbicide in February to help prevent summer annual weeds such as crabgrass or applying a postemergence lawn herbicide during spring while the temperature is mild and before the weeds are out of control simply makes more sense than waiting until summer.

The best options now with lawn weed control involve continuing to follow good mowing practices, maybe hand removal of some weeds and just simply waiting for next February and spring to use lawn herbicides.

In the meantime, you may want to read the following UF/IFAS Extension publication on lawn weed control. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/EP/EP14100.pdf

Nuisance Gnats abound in Northwest Florida this spring

Nuisance Gnats abound in Northwest Florida this spring

If you’ve been outside this spring, you’ve probably been bothered by gnats. These tiny flies relentlessly congregate near the face getting into the eyes, nose, mouth and ears.

Close up picture if gnat

Eye gnat. Credit: Lyle Buss, UF/IFAS

Eye gnats come right up to the faces of people and animals because they feed on fluids secreted by the eyes, nose and ears. Even though eye gnats are considered mostly a nuisance, they have been connected to transmission of diseases such as pink eye.

Eye gnats are true flies. At about one-sixteenth of an inch in length, they are among the smallest fly species in Florida. They are known as eye gnats, eye flies, frit flies and grass flies. The name grass flies is somewhat descriptive as open grass areas such as pastures, hay fields, roadsides and lawns provide breeding sites for these gnats. They also breed in areas of freshly disturbed soil with adequate organic matter such as livestock farms.

Even though these gnats can be found in much of North and South America, they prefer areas with warm, wet weather and sandy soils. Sounds like Florida.

An early spring and plenty of rain are the more likely reasons why these gnats are such a problem in our area this year. Without having the typical last killing frost around mid-March and with early warm weather and rains, the gnats got off to an early start.

Short of constantly swatting them away from your face or just not going outdoors, what can be done about these irritating little flies? I grew up in an area of Georgia where gnats are common. I’ll let you in on a secret, folks who live in Georgia are known to be overly friendly because they are always waving at people who are just passing through. More than likely, these “friendly” folks are busy swatting at gnats, not waving at others who happen to be driving by. Swatting is a quick swinging action with hand as if waving.

Because of their lifecycle, extremely high reproductive numbers in the soil and because insecticides breakdown quickly, area-wide chemical control efforts don’t work well in combating this insect.

The use of the following where gnats are common can be helpful.

  • Correct use of insect repellents, particularly those containing DEET
  • Screens on windows to prevent the entry of gnats into homes
  • Face-hugging sunglasses or other protective eyewear
  • Face masks

We may have to put up with these annoying gnats until cold weather arrives and be thankful that they don’t bite.

Additional info on eye gnats is available online at https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in884 or from the UF/IFAS Extension Office in your County.

Watering to Establish a New Lawn

Watering to Establish a New Lawn

Lawn irrigation spray head running

Lawn irrigation spray head running. Credit: Larry Williams

When watering to establish a new lawn or when renovating areas within an older lawn, 2-3 “mists” throughout the day for the first 7-10 days until roots get established is recommended. These are 10-minute bursts. Then back off to once a day for about ½ hour for 7-10 days. Then go to 2-3 times a week for about 7 days. By then your lawn should be established.

Irrigation is not needed when we are getting adequate rainfall. Rain counts. In the absence of sufficient rain, you’ll need to provide enough water at the correct time to allow your new sod to root, hence the above directions.

A well designed and correctly installed irrigation system with a controller, operated correctly, helps to achieve uniform establishment. It can be difficult or impossible and inconvenient and time consuming to uniformly provide sufficient water to establish a lawn with hose-end sprinklers, especially with a sizeable lawn and during dry weather. Most people are not going to do the necessary job of pulling hoses around on a regular basis to result in a well-established lawn.

Too much water will result in rot, diseased roots and failure. Too little water will result in the sod, seedlings, sprigs or plugs drying excessively and failure to establish. The end result, will be a poorly established, sparse lawn with weeds, or complete failure.

There is no substitute or remedy for incorrect irrigation when establishing a new lawn or when renovating an older lawn.

It is risky to invest the required time and money if the new lawn cannot be irrigated correctly. Taking the gamble that adequate (not too much, not too little) rainfall will occur when needed to result in a beautiful, healthy, lush lawn is exactly that, a gamble.

An irrigation system is a good tool to supplement rainfall. As much as possible, learn to operate the irrigation controller using the “Manual” setting. It also is wise and is State law to have a rain shutoff device installed and operating correctly. The rain shutoff device overrides the controller when it is raining or when sufficient rainfall has occurred. A rain shutoff device is inexpensive and easily installed. Also, a rain gauge can be an inexpensive tool to help monitor how much rain you’ve received. Rain counts.

The above schedule should help when planting a lawn from seed, sprigs, plugs or sod.

Once the lawn is rooted, your goal change from establishing a root system to developing a deep, strong rooted lawn. To do this, irrigate to provide ½ to ¾ inch of water on an as needed basis. Here are links to a UF/IFAS video and publication with more info on how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_wn-hwLNtg, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/LH025.

Sweet Onion and Strawberry Success, a Matter of Variety and Timing

Sweet Onion and Strawberry Success, a Matter of Variety and Timing

Strawberries are being harvested in North Florida now and sweet onions will be harvested soon. Spring is the time to harvest these crops, however; fall is the time to plant these crops in our area.

Planting time and variety selection are keys to sweet onion and strawberry success in North Florida.

Sweet onions almost ready for harvest

Sweet onions almost ready for harvest in a Calhoun County garden. Credit: Joe Leonard.

We can produce large, tasty sweet onions in North Florida. When using the correct varieties and when planted at the right time, we can produce bulbs up to four inches in diameter with flavor that rivals the famous Vidalia onions.

To be successful at growing large sweet onion bulbs, you have to set out plants in the fall. Waiting to plant in spring, as is done up north, results in small onions. As a matter of fact, onions planted after the first of the year make puny little bulbs. To produce large bulbing onions, you should plant your transplants during October to mid-November. Otherwise, you may get big green onion plants verses big bulbs.

In order to be successful with growing large onions in our area, you have to select the correct varieties. Basically, you need to use varieties of “short-day” onions such as ‘Grano’, ‘Granex’, ‘Texas Grano’, ‘Excel’ or ‘Tropicana Red’. ‘Granex’ is the variety that is used for producing Vidalia onions and St. Augustine Sweets.

Some gardeners seed their onions in September in order to have plants ready for transplanting to the garden later in the fall. Others buy the plants of these varieties during the

Strawberries ready to harvest

Strawberries ready to harvest in spring. Credit: Larry Williams

fall. These onion plants should be placed four to five inches apart in rows that are twelve to twenty-four inches apart. Fertilization is required during the winter and particularly as the onion bulbs begin to size up in the spring. Onions grow well during our relatively mild winters and will be ready for harvest in early May, as the tops of the plants begin to turn yellow and fall over.

Many gardeners fail with strawberries in North Florida by waiting to plant in spring and by planting the wrong varieties for our area. In Florida, strawberries are treated as annuals

. They are planted during October and November. Like onions, strawberry plants are cold hardy, producing a full sized plant by spring and yielding a crop during March through May. Once you’ve harvested the berries, do away with the plants. It’s not worth trying to carry strawberry plants through our hot, wet summers. Start next fall with fresh plants.

Use only “short-day” strawberry varieties. These include ‘Camarosa’, ‘Sweet Charlie’, ‘Festival’, ‘Chandler’, ‘Dover’, ‘Selva’, ‘Sequoia’, ‘Tioga’, ‘Oso Grande’, ‘Florida Belle’ and ‘Florida 90’. “Everbearing” varieties of strawberries, which are frequently advertised, are not well suited for Florida. More info is available at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs403.

Enjoy the spring harvest season of these two delicious crops, but plant them in the fall.

For more information on growing your own vegetables, contact the UF/IFAS Extension Office in your County or visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_vegetable_gardening.

Home Vegetable Gardening 101 Seminar

Home Vegetable Gardening 101 Seminar

There are common reasons for failure with vegetable gardens in North Florida. One of those reasons is planting at the wrong time of year. We can grow vegetables year-round here in North Florida but it’s important to plant and grow the right vegetable during the right season. Most warm-season vegetables, such as tomato and cucumber, are planted and grow when frosts and freezes are not likely to happen. While the cool-season crops, such as strawberry and onion, are planted and grow during the cooler months of fall, winter and early spring. We have to be careful to select the correct varieties, as well.

Many gardeners overdo it in fertilizing and liming their gardens, which can result in failure. I’ve seen gardeners create problems in their gardens by watering too much or at the wrong time of day. Some gardeners use too much of a good thing such as mushroom compost, wood ashes, Epsom salt or copper fungicides in their gardens, creating lasting problems. And, unfortunately, too many gardeners don’t know how to identify beneficial insects versus pest insects and misuse insecticides as a result.

To be successful with vegetable gardening in North Florida, a person needs to know these basics. This is the kind of information I will cover in the free, two-hour seminar titled Home Vegetable Gardening 101.

The Home Vegetable Gardening 101 seminar is scheduled for Saturday, March 1, 10 a.m. to 12 noon at the UF/IFAS Extension Office in Crestview. The address is 3098 Airport Road in Crestview, FL. Please use the registration form below to register or call (850) 689-5850. Space is limited.

The registration form is here: https://forms.office.com/r/YTqt192MYB