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Monitor for Mole Crickets

Monitor for Mole Crickets

Mole cricket tunnels. Credit: N. Leppla, UF/IFAS

Mole cricket tunnels. Credit: N. Leppla, UF/IFAS

Many people treat their lawn with an insecticide when they see mole crickets in the spring or at the first sign of a brown area in their lawn. What they don’t understand is the biology of this pest. 

Mole crickets spend the winter as adults in the soil. As temperatures warm in late February and March, adult mole crickets emerge and begin to mate. Male mole crickets construct a chamber in the soil and chirp to attract female crickets. Attracted females fly to the males. After mating, males die and females fly to a suitable area for egg laying. Mated females begin tunneling and laying eggs in the tunnels. They lay about four clutches of eggs in different areas, averaging 35 eggs per clutch. Female crickets die shortly after laying their eggs.  

Use of insecticides during early spring is not recommended because:

  • adult mole crickets are not easily killed
  • they cause minimal lawn damage during the mating and egg laying process, and,
  • reinfestation from subsequent flights is likely.  

The best time to treat for mole crickets is during mid-June through July. This will be when eggs have hatched but before the nymphs (immature mole crickets) are large enough to do much damage. Proper timing of the insecticide application is very important to achieve control.

Mole cricket nymphs. Credit: J. Castner, UF/IFAS

Mole cricket nymphs. Credit: J. Castner, UF/IFAS

 

If you are not sure if mole crickets are present, you can find out with a soap solution. Mix 1½ fluid ounces of a lemon scented liquid dishwashing soap in two gallons of water in a sprinkling can or bucket. Pour the soapy water over an area approximately four square feet and count the number of mole crickets that emerge. If they are present, it only takes several minutes for mole crickets to crawl to the surface after the soap treatment. Repeat the process around the yard where you suspect mole cricket problems. If you flush an average of two to four crickets per site, treat the lawn with an insecticide. Follow up with spot treatments if any crickets escape the first insecticide treatment. But don’t treat at all if there is no evidence of mole cricket activity.  

There are a number of products for mole cricket control in home lawns. Look for insecticides that contain the following active ingredients: bifenthrin, carbaryl, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, imidacloprid , lambda-cyhalothrin or permethrin.  

Before using any product for mole cricket control first identify the problem as mole cricket damage by using the soap flush technique. Then choose an insecticide that lists mole crickets on its label. And finally, read the container carefully for use directions, application techniques, irrigation requirements and precautions.

 

Wait Until Mid-April to Fertilize North Florida Lawns

Wait Until Mid-April to Fertilize North Florida Lawns

Cold injury to lawn from too early fertilizer application Credit: Larry Williams

Cold injury to lawn from too early fertilizer application. Credit: Larry Williams

It’s too early to fertilize our warm-season lawn grasses now. This includes the use of fertilizers contained in weed-and-feed products.

There are a number of reasons why it’s best to wait to fertilize your lawn.

First, the soil temperature is too cool for grass roots to have access to some of the fertilizer elements. For example, iron and potassium are poorly available until the soil warms up in spring. Some nutrients leach below the grass roots because the lawn can’t use them yet. This results in waste of fertilizer, time and money.

Secondly, fertilizing too soon can induce nutrient deficiencies and off color areas in your lawn. This is one cause for bright yellow areas in lawns during early spring. Nitrogen is readily taken up by the lawn, even under cool soil conditions, and stimulates early green growth. Early lawn growth is dependent on iron also being readily available. However, iron is poorly available under the cool soil conditions of late winter and early spring. Therefore lawns turn yellow in areas due to an iron deficiency caused by an early fertilizer application. Many times, as soil temperatures warm during mid April and May, the iron becomes available and the lawn turns green. So why not avoid this scenario by waiting until mid April to fertilize your lawn?

It takes consistently warm night temperatures to allow the soil to become warm enough for best root growth and optimal uptake of fertilizer.

Thirdly, the young, tender grass roots that are beginning to grow in early spring are easily burned by the fertilizer.

Fourthly, fertilizing too early can stimulate early lawn growth, which is tender and easily injured by a late frost. The average date for our last killing frost is mid March.

Also, be very cautious about using weed-and-feed products that recommend a late winter application. These products are usually high in nitrogen, which will cause your lawn to begin growing too early. If you’re trying to control weeds, it’s best to apply your herbicides separately from fertilizer, anyway.

In North Florida, it’s best to wait until your lawn has completely greened up in spring before applying any fertilizer.

Waiting allows for more efficient use of the fertilizer. You will not injury you lawn by waiting to fertilize but you can certainly injure your lawn by fertilizing too early.

So, have patience, allow your lawn to green up on its own and then fertilize, even if it’s not until mid April or May.

 

 

 

Upcoming Okaloosa County Lawn & Garden Seminars

Upcoming Okaloosa County Lawn & Garden Seminars

a landscape


Photo by Mary Derrick, UF IFAS

Upcoming lawn & garden seminars  

With spring on its way, your local University of Florida Extension Office in Okaloosa County is providing lawn and garden seminars for the public.

Plan Before You Plant Seminar: Take the guesswork out of vegetable gardening and join Okaloosa County Master Gardener Lee Vanderpool as he presents this seminar on planning your vegetable garden. Topics covered will include creating a plan for planting, interplanting and companion planting, planning for raised beds and container gardening. This is the first of our monthly seminars scheduled for the 3rd Wednesday of each month now through October. This first seminar will be held Wednesday, March 18 from10 to 11 a.m. at the Extension Annex located at 127 Hollywood Boulevard in Fort Walton Beach. For more information and to register, please call the Okaloosa County Extension Office at 850-689-5850. Space is limited.

 

Controlling Tomato Pests in the Home Garden Seminar: If you plan to grow tomatoes this year, plan to attend this seminar. Learn how to identify and control many of the insect and disease pests associated with growing tomatoes in the Florida home garden. I will provide this seminar on Thursday, April 2 from 9 a.m. to noon at the Okaloosa County Extension Office, 3098 Airport Road in Crestview. Please register for this program by calling the Okaloosa County Extension Office at 850-689-5850. Space is limited.

Lawn Care in Northwest Florida Seminar: I will provide this seminar as a First Tuesday Series program at the Crestview Public Library on Tuesday, April 7.

Many people become frustrated with their lawns here in Florida. Our climate, sandy soils and pest problems are unique compared to most areas of the U.S. Most people follow incorrect lawn care practices in Florida. As a result, they waste money, water, fertilizer and end up with a disappointing lawn.

This program begins at 10:30 a.m. with coffee and cookies served starting at 10 a.m. at the Crestview Public Library. The library is located at 1445 Commerce Drive (behind the Post Office). Call the library at 682-4432 or the Okaloosa County Extension Office at 689-5850 for more information.

 

There is no cost to attend these seminars but space is limited. So please preregister. Larry Williams, UF/IFAS Extension Agent, Okaloosa County, March 12, 2015

Don’t Let Spring Fever Cause a Lawn Headache

Don’t Let Spring Fever Cause a Lawn Headache

Diseased Turfgrass - Image Credit Matthew Orwat

Diseased Turfgrass – Image Credit Matthew Orwat

With a few nice late winter days, many people get a good dose of spring fever. But be careful when the fever hits you. Don’t fertilize your lawn too early. The fever may turn into a lawn “headache”.

Wait to fertilize. Fertilizing while the soil is too cool can result in nutrient deficiencies such as iron deficiency causing yellow areas in the lawn. Fertilizing early can result in injury to a lawn’s roots from fertilizer burn. Or tender growth promoted by an early fertilizer application may be injured by a late frost or freeze. Have patience, allow the lawn to green up on its own and then fertilize, even if it’s not until mid April or May.

Get the numbers right. Our lawns need almost the same amount of potassium as compared to nitrogen. Getting this right can make a difference in the long-term health of your lawn. Look for a lawn fertilizer with an analysis such as 8-0-8, 10-0-10, 15-0-15, 18-0-18, 15-2-15, 16-0-8, etc. Look for a fertilizer with a 1:1 ratio of nitrogen to potassium. These numbers provide the buyer important information. The first number is the percent nitrogen (N), the second number is the percent phosphorus (P) and the third number is the percent potassium (K). Adequate potassium has been linked to reduced disease problems, drought and cold tolerance and enhanced root growth.

Use low phosphorus. Lawn grasses use much less phosphorus than nitrogen or potassium. Because of this and because phosphorus has been implicated as a cause for problems in our surface waters, it’s recommended to base phosphorus rates on the results of a reliable soil test. In absence of soil test results, select a fertilizer with 2% or less phosphorus such as 15-2-15, 8-0-8, 16-0-8, etc. It’s best to base P applications on the results of a reliable soil test.

Don’t fertilize too late. The latest month to fertilize our warm season lawn grasses in North Florida as recommended by University of Florida turfgrass researchers is mid September. If you have centipedegrass, it’s recommended to fertilize no later than July.

Measure your lawn. Most homeowners apply too much fertilizer because they do not know the square footage of their lawn. Measure the size of your lawn (front, back and side yard) and err on the side of using less fertilizer than recommended.

Camellia Flowers that Fail to Open

Camellia Flowers that Fail to Open

Do you have camellia plants with flower buds that fail to open? Here are possible causes for this problem.

  • Stress – Drought is the primary stress that inhibits buds from opening.
  • Too many buds on a plant results in the plant not having reserves for each bud to open.
  • Warm weather during fall may inhibit early blooming varieties from flowering properly.
  • Freeze damage – Most of our Camellia japonica cultivars produce flower buds and bloom during the winter. As the flower buds begin to swell, and particularly as they begin to open, the flower buds become more susceptible to freeze injury. Freeze injured flower buds fail to open. Also, plants located in colder areas of the landscape will be more susceptible to cold injury. Camellia sasanqua cultivars are less likely to experience cold injury to their flower buds because they bloom mostly during fall and early winter when we are less likely to experience freezing temperatures.
    Partially opened freeze injured camellia flower, Photo credit: Larry Williams

    Partially opened freeze injured camellia flower, Photo credit: Larry Williams

    Partially opened camellia flower bud with discolored (brown) petals due to cold injury, Photo credit: Larry Williams

    Partially opened camellia flower bud with discolored (brown) petals due to cold injury, Photo credit: Larry Williams

    The early freeze that occurred during mid November 2014 and the more recent freeze in early January 2015 may be responsible for some of the flower bud injury on earlier and later blooming camellia plants here in north Florida this season.

  • Another situation may have to do with the specific variety. Thirty plus years ago people planted any camellia they could find because there was a more limited selection. Even though camellias have been part of our southern landscapes for many years, they are native to parts of Asia. Over the years there have been more introductions of cultivars. Some are not well adapted to our colder winters. Some camellia cultivars are not well adapted to the gulf coast and thus won’t flower well even though they may grow well here. This is why some varieties are favored in Seattle, some do better in England and others perform well here. You’d be wise to select cultivars that are known to do well in our area.

For more information on camellias, contact the UF/IFAS Extension Office in your County or visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep002 to access the publication, “Camellias at a Glance.”