by Lauren Goldsby | Sep 25, 2025
While planning my fall garden I have been partaking in one of my favorite pastimes—shopping for seeds. This is always more fun to me than planting the seeds. Seeds come in many different packages and just like wine, you can be drawn in just from the carefully crafted label. Many of the seed labels I encountered shared the same marketing phrase, “non-GMO seeds”, which is like seeing a gluten free label on your pineapple. It was never an option!
Genetically engineered plants take decade(s) to produce, test and release. They are expensive and are not typically sold in small quantities. These patented seeds will not be sold to you by accident. GMO crops that are grown and sold in the US on a commercial scale include alfalfa, apple (Arctic), canola, corn, cotton, eggplant, papaya, pineapple (pink), potato, soybean, squash, sugarbeet, and sugarcane. More information about each crop here: https://www.ams.usda.gov/rules-regulations/be/bioengineered-foods-list
Recently, a few GE seeds have been developed for the home gardener.
The Firefly Petunia glows in the dark thanks to the insertion of genes from a bioluminescent mushroom. More info
The Purple Tomato has purple skin and purple flesh thanks to the insertion of snapdragon genes. This is the first genetically engineered food crop developed for the home gardener. More info
These seeds are only available from certain retailers, and you will pay a premium for this technology.
When purchasing seeds consider other factors like season and variety. “Right plant, right place” – you hear us say those four words again and again here at the Extension Office. That’s because plant selection is one of the most important things to consider for gardening success. If you were to start a watermelon from seed right now it may do well at first. However, they thrive in the heat of the summer, and they will not like the short, cool fall days. A plant growing in the wrong environment will be stressed. That stress attracts pests and can make a plant more susceptible to pathogens.
Set yourself up for success by growing plants when they are in season. Don’t be tempted by the seeds you see on the aisle end caps. These are not always specific to each region and just because they are selling it now does not mean it should be grown right now. Decide what you are going to grow before you go to the store! The Florida Panhandle Planting Guide is a great resource to use for planning your garden. If you find that you purchased seeds for the wrong season save them for the next one—and consider that your newest hobby may be seed collecting.
by Lauren Goldsby | Jul 31, 2025
Blueberry flower buds are formed at the cane ends.
When, how, and if you prune your blueberries depends on your goals and how you want to manage your plants. Pruning is usually done to control plant height, open up the canopy, and remove older canes that are less productive. Blueberry canes form flower buds starting from the upper ends of the stems. As plants grow taller, the best berries develop higher and higher. Lower, shorter canes will still produce fruit, but the upper canopy can shade them, leading to fewer berries within easy picking height. Rabbiteye varieties common in the Panhandle can reach 20 feet (7 m) if left unpruned. Some gardeners like leaving the upper berries for birds while harvesting the lower fruit for themselves, while others prefer to prune plants shorter to keep berries within easy reach.
Blueberry plants can be pruned at two main times of year:
After harvest (summer): This is the time to reduce plant height, but it must be done soon after the last berries are picked and before fall, when flower buds form inside the stems. If you wait too long, you risk cutting off next season’s flowers and losing fruit. After summer pruning, it’s a good time to apply an acid-loving plant fertilizer to encourage new growth.
Once buds are visible, it’s too late to prune for height without losing berries.
During dormancy (winter): In winter, you can remove dead, damaged, or old unproductive canes to open up the canopy and allow for new growth. Avoid removing more than 30% of the total canes in a single year. Winter is also when fruit thinning can be done. If there are too many buds on the plant, the berries may stay small. By selectively removing canes, the plant can produce fewer but larger berries.
Pruning can be an important management tool, but it isn’t mandatory. If you choose to prune, make sure to do it at the right time for your goal- whether it’s controlling height, encouraging bigger berries, or simply refreshing older plants. See the chart below for a seasonal guide to pruning and fertilizing blueberries in the Panhandle. Pruning and Fertilizing Handout Download
by Lauren Goldsby | Jun 13, 2025
Most gardeners I know love to share plants. Propagating and dividing them can be just as much fun as growing them. Some of my favorite plants in the garden came from loved ones offering a cutting or telling me to dig up whatever I liked.
Lately, I’ve been thinking about how plants can serve as living memories of loved ones who are no longer with us. Many of the plants in my garden are there for that reason- some without me even realizing it. My home garden has become a small collection of plants and memories associated with those plants, and I am the proud keeper of their stories.
My dad’s fig tree came from a cutting of his grandfather’s fig tree. Newer varieties may yield more and resist disease better, but nothing compares to the fruit you grew up eating with your grandparents on the Fourth of July.
This year, for the first time, I got to enjoy hydrangea blooms from my late grandparents’ home. Before their house was sold, my aunt took last-minute stem cuttings from the bushes. After three years, they’re finally healthy enough to flower- and soon, I’ll take more cuttings to share with the rest of the family.
Sometimes, just being in the garden helps you feel closer to loved ones and the memories you shared. Even if it’s not the same exact plant, growing something they once grew can help you feel connected to them.
My great-grandmother always said you should have flowers growing in your garden so you can cut them and bring them to people when you visit. When I cut flowers from my garden for friends and family I feel like I am keeping her tradition going.
There are so many plants you can propagate and grow yourself. If you talk to someone who’s been propagating for a while, they’ll likely tell you that it’s as much an art as it is a skill. Try out different plants and methods to see what works best for you. Here’s a great video to get you started with the basics of plant propagation: FFL Plant Propagation Basics.
Are there any plants you grow because of a loved one? It’s never too late to start.
by Lauren Goldsby | May 8, 2025
It’s that time of year when you bump into a bumble bee and watch butterflies fluttering around as you water the garden. If you’re like me, you’ve been waiting patiently for butterflies to start laying their eggs. Butterflies and moths lay eggs on specialized plants that caterpillars depend on once they hatch. These host plants provide caterpillars with food, shelter, and protection- and they can be anything from a small weed to a tall oak tree.
Freshly hatched Gulf fritillary on passionflower
Monarch butterfly on echinacea
While host plants feed caterpillars, nectar plants feed butterflies. Host plants are specific to each butterfly or moth, while nectar plants attract and feed many different species. Provide a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors of flowering plants to attract different butterflies. To support all life stages of butterflies it’s important to have both host and nectar plants in your garden.
Keep an eye out for signs of caterpillars on your host plants and remember that these plants are meant to be eaten! Because caterpillars feed exclusively on their host plants, they won’t harm the rest of your landscape. Before you reach for pesticides when you see leaf damage, take a moment to identify what’s causing it. It may just be hungry caterpillars getting ready to transform into butterflies. For more information see this EDIS publication about butterfly gardening in Florida, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/UW057.
Zebra longwing caterpillar on passionflower
Want to support both caterpillars and butterflies with one plant? Try passionflower! Florida is home to 6 native species of passionflower. Maypop or wild passionflower, Passiflora incarnata, is the showiest of these. Flowers of pink and purple cover the passionflower from the summer to fall, offering nectar for bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. Passiflora species are host plants for the zebra longwing and gulf fritillary caterpillars.
Passiflora incarnata
Gulf fritillary (left) and zebra longwing (right)
Gulf fritillary (left) and zebra longwing (right)
by Lauren Goldsby | Mar 27, 2025
It’s hard to miss the clusters of lavender colored flowers that seem to be growing everywhere right now. That’s because they are an invasive wisteria, doing what invasive plants do best: growing everywhere.
Wisteria vine wrapped around tree trunk
Photo: Tristan Hansford; Budwood.org
We often notice the invasive Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and Japanese wisteria (Wisteria Floribunda) in the early spring because of their fragrant and showy flowers. Look closely, and you’ll see thick vines wrapped around trees, decks, and other structures. This dense growth outcompetes native plants by taking up available light, nutrients, and space. Eventually the vines can even kill the trees and damage structures they grow on.
Look-Alike Alternatives
If you love the look of the invasive wisteria, consider planting the native American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) to achieve a similar look, without damaging structures or ecosystems. American wisteria is a native plant and a larval host plant for butterflies and moths, including the long-tailed skipper. It grows well in USDA zones 5 to 9.
American Wisteria
Photo courtesy of Robert H. Mohlenbrock, hosted by the USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / USDA SCS. 1991.
Invasive wisteria has larger and less dense flower clusters.
Photo: UF/IFAS Lauren Goldsby
Invasive Wisteria Removal
Use the lavender colored flowers in the spring to locate invasive wisteria in your landscape. Invasive wisteria has long flower clusters (up to 50cm) and seed pods that are covered in dense hairs. American wisteria has shorter (5-10cm), denser flower clusters and seed pods that are hairless. If the vine you see is growing aggressively in natural areas, it is likely an invasive wisteria. You can always reach out to your local Extension office for help with identification.
Cut the vine as close to the root as possible and apply glyphosate to the cut stem with a sponge or paintbrush. Invasive wisteria can spread from seeds and stems so be careful to remove all plant material and dispose of it in your garbage not your compost bin. If you do not want to apply herbicide you can still cut the main stem but will need to come back to remove sprouts or dig up and remove the root system.
For more recommendations on vining plants that won’t take over, check out this article: Versatile Vines
