It’s Fall… Now what Do I Do with my Lawn?

It’s Fall… Now what Do I Do with my Lawn?

by | Oct 2, 2017

While yard work is important to maintain an attractive lawn, if done successfully, the resident can spend quality time in other pursuits like watching the wildlife from the front porch.

With the passing of September the end is in sight, well at least the end of summer, and hopefully summer-like weather. The hot humid days of August gave way to the hot humid days of September,now October, and the Florida Panhandle is finally experiencing cooler temperatures. At least temporarily.

Days have shortened noticeably and the plants have noticed. Foliage growth has slowed and seed production is in overdrive.

As the season slowly shifts, the needs and care for the lawn and landscape are changing too. Inputs need six months ago and environmental factors which were true in the spring are now being altered by the immutable and timeless forces of nature.

Fertilizer is one factor which must be considered in light of the dormant season’s approach. Inappropriate or excessive application will waste resources and end up in the water supply where it will do no good.

As many warm season grasses and plants are reducing their growth rates to prepare for winter, the need for nutrients slows. Nitrogen, the first number on a fertilizer tag’s list of ingredients percentages, is especially vulnerable to misuse by the well-intended but inexperienced or uninformed person.

Over application of nitrogen will promote the aggressive growth of tender green foliage in the lawn. If a frost or freeze occurs when the tender vegetation is presence, the plant will experience excessive damage or death.

The directions on home and garden fertilizer bags, and soil test report all recommend restricting or eliminating nitrogen application late in the growing season. This is sound advice.

Herbicide use changes in the late summer and autumn also. As with misapplied fertilizer, misused herbicides will waste resources and can end up in the water supply.

Weeds and other targets of herbicides must be actively growing for the herbicide to work effectively. Late summer and fall can present challenges to effectively applying herbicides.

With very few exceptions, plants must be actively growing for herbicides to work properly. Plants slowing towards dormancy will not absorb as much herbicide and may, species depending, be completely immune.

Herbicides do not work on plants which are under drought stress. It is important to remember early fall is the driest time of the year in panhandle Florida, nature’s way of forcing a fall growth shutdown.

Yard waste and grass clipping will help refresh mulch in flower beds and on tree root zones. The summer heat and humidity have combined with bacterial activity to breakdown the current supply of mulch.

The on-site utilization of yard waste as mulch or as a basis for compost is a good practice to establish. It will benefit the landscape and reduce the multiple layers of expenses required to collect, haul and dispose of this material.

If properly composted, the material reduces the chances of introducing weeds, insects and diseases which can be on commercial products. Another way to look at the subject is “What is produced in the Florida Panhandle stays in the Florida Panhandle…and saves everyone money in the process.

While Septembers early weeks were just as oppressively hot and humid as August, relief seems to be here. Be ready to spend the cooler days enjoying a private bit of paradise in Northwest Florida without worrying about problems which could have been avoided.

To learn more about getting the lawn and landscape ready for autumn, contact your UF/IFAS Extension Office.

 

Whiteflies Invade the Panhandle

Whiteflies Invade the Panhandle

by | Oct 2, 2017

Over the last month or so, home gardeners and commercial growers alike have noticed what look to be large dust particles floating through the air. It’s probably not uncommon to have inhaled a few or even a few hundred of these mysterious particles. Most likely, these “particles” aren’t dust at all but whiteflies instead. Whiteflies are small (less than a tenth of an inch long), white, soft-bodied insects.  They aren’t flies but are considered ‘true bugs’ by entomologists. The most common whitefly species in Northwest Florida is the silverleaf whitefly, also known as the sweetpotato whitefly. Whitefly numbers have exploded exponentially this year because of last years’ mild winter. These irksome insects feed on a variety of annuals, shrubs, vegetables and trees.

Whitefly adults and eggs.

Magnified whitefly adults and eggs. Photo Credit: James Castner, University of Florida/IFAS.

Whiteflies typically feed on the underside of leaves. Initially, disturbed leaves will become pale in color, then a sticky substance may develop on the surface of the leaves. This sticky substance is called honeydew. Honeydew is actually a sugary substance excreted by the whiteflies as part of their elimination process, similar to what aphids and scale insects produce. After honeydew is deposited, sooty mold develops to feed on this readily available sugar source. Sooty mold is a fungus that forms a gray to black colored coating on plant leaves.  It normally grows on leaves that were previously covered with honeydew. Sooty mold hinders the ability of leaves to absorb light and ultimately limits photosynthesis.

Pale squash leaves due to feeding from whiteflies.

Pale squash leaves due to feeding from whiteflies. Photo Credit: University of Florida/IFAS.

So what should be done to control whiteflies? It depends on what is being grown. If whiteflies are present, the role of beneficial insects should be taken into consideration. Plenty of predatory insects such as lady bugs and green lacewings are around to feed on whiteflies. In fact, leaving the whiteflies alone on your trees and shrubs will attract more predatory insects. Below are some whitefly control methods that produce minimal damage to beneficial insect populations.

Whitefly Control in Vegetables

  • Sticky Traps – Yellow sticky traps are a good way to monitor whitefly populations and can help determine when insecticide application is appropriate.
  • Insecticidal Soaps – Insecticidal soaps are usually applied as a 1 to 2 percent solution (2½ to 5 tablespoons per gallon of water). It is important to follow the application directions on the label. Insecticidal soap should be applied in the evening, when the sun is low in the sky and the temperature is below 85°F. Some insecticidal soaps available at local lawn and garden centers include: Bonide Insecticidal Soap, Bonide Insecticidal Soap, and Bayer Advanced Natria Insecticidal Soap.
  • Horticultural Oils – Horticultural oils should be handled like insecticidal soaps. Like the soaps, they should be applied in the evening.  Some horticultural oils available at local lawn and garden centers include: Bonide All Seasons Spray Oil, Southern Ag Parafine Oil, and Garden Safe Neem Oil.
  • Other Insecticides – Harsher chemicals are not recommended for the home gardener, because whiteflies have become resistant to most products on the market. Use of broad spectrum insecticides may also contribute to an increase in whitefly populations because they kill beneficial predatory insects.

Hopefully winter will be cooler this year and the profuse whitefly population will be knocked back. Until then, we wish all home gardeners the best of luck with fall gardening!