Meet Daniel Leonard!

Meet Daniel Leonard!

Daniel is the UF/IFAS Calhoun County Extension Director and the Agriculture, Horticulture, and Natural Resources Agent in the county also!  Daniel is a fifth generation native northwest Floridian, born and raised near Blountstown on a timber farm.  This experience growing up gave him a general love of the outdoors and nature, but when he rooted his first cutting as a kid with the help of a mentor, a ‘Nikko Blue’ Hydrangea, he was hooked on horticulture.

Daniel has a B.S. in Environmental Horticulture and a M.S. in Agricultural Education and Communications – both from the University of Florida.  This combination of these degrees has allowed him to succeed in Extension both in subject matter expertise and in design and delivery of quality educational programs.  He began his professional career at Panhandle Growers, Inc (PGI), an ornamental tree farm in Santa Rosa County.  During his time there as Production Manager, Daniel learned valuable lessons of leadership, team management, and even a little Spanish.  Following his time at PGI, Daniel decided to pursue a career in Extension, first in Walton County as Horticulture Agent and Master Gardener Coordinator and now back in his home community. His Extension program focuses on providing evidence-based solutions for residents in their home landscapes and vegetable gardens, agricultural producers in their crop fields and pastures, and landowners on their managed woodlands.

When he’s not in the landscape or out in a field, Daniel prefers to be on the water with his fly rod or home meticulously tending his raised bed garden.  He and his wife Ali had their first date in a botanical garden and, when not confined due to COVID, enjoy travelling, eating Key Lime Pie for breakfast, and parenting their dogs, El J and Manu.

Overcup Oak – The Best Landscape Tree You’ve Never Heard Of

Overcup Oak – The Best Landscape Tree You’ve Never Heard Of

7 year old Overcup Oak (Quercus lyrata) on the edge of a wet weather pond in Calhoun County. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.

Haunting alluvial river bottoms and creek beds across the Deep South, is a highly unusual oak species, Overcup Oak (Quercus lyrata).  Unlike nearly any other Oak and most sane people, Overcups occur deep in alluvial swamps and spend most of their lives with their feet wet.   Though the species hides out along water’s edge in secluded swamps, it has nevertheless been discovered by the horticultural industry and is becoming one of the favorite species of landscape designers and nurserymen around the South.  The reasons for Overcup’s rise are numerous, let’s dive into them.

First, much of the deep South, especially in the Coastal Plain, is dominated by poorly drained flatwoods soils cut through by river systems and dotted with cypress and blackgum ponds.  These conditions call for landscape plants that can handle hot, humid air, excess rainfall, and even periodic inundation (standing water).  It stands to reason our best tree options for these areas, Sycamore, Bald Cypress, Red Maple, and others, occur naturally in swamps that mimic these conditions.  Overcup Oak is one of these hardy species.  Overcup goes above and beyond being able to handle a squishy lawn, it is often found inundated for weeks at a time by more than 20’ of water during the spring floods our river systems experience.

The same Overcup Oak thriving under inundation conditions 2 weeks after a heavy rain. Photo courtesy Daniel Leonard.

The species has even developed an interesting adaptation to allow populations to thrive in flooded seasons.  Their acorns, preferred food of many waterfowl, are almost totally covered by a buoyant acorn cap, allowing seeds to float downstream until they hit dry land, thus ensuring the species survives and spreads.  While it will not survive perpetual inundation like Cypress and Blackgum, if you have a periodically damp area in your lawn where other species struggle, Overcup will shine.

Overcup Oak is also an exceedingly attractive tree.  In youth, the species is extremely uniform, with a straight, stout trunk and rounded “lollipop” canopy.  This regular habit is maintained into adulthood, where it becomes a stately tree with a distinctly upturned branching habit, lending itself well to mowers and other traffic underneath without having to worry about hitting low-hanging branches.  The large, lustrous green leaves are lyre-shaped if you use your imagination (hence the name, Quercus lyrata) and turn a not-unattractive yellowish brown in fall.  Overcups especially shines in the winter, however, when the whitish gray, shaggy bark takes center stage.  Overcup bark is very reminiscent of White Oak or Shagbark Hickory and is exceedingly pretty relative to other landscape trees that can be successfully grown here.

Overcup Oak leaves in August. Note the characteristic “lyre” shape. Photo courtesy Daniel Leonard.

Finally, Overcup Oak is among the easiest to grow landscape trees.  We have already discussed its ability to tolerate wet soils and our blazing heat and humidity, but Overcups can also tolerate periodic drought, partial shade, and nearly any soil pH.  They are long-lived trees and have no known serious pest or disease problems.  They transplant easily from standard nursery containers or dug from a field (if it’s a larger specimen), making establishment in the landscape an easy task.  In the establishment phase, defined as the first year or two after transplanting, young, transplanted Overcups require only a weekly rain or irrigation event of around 1” (wetter areas may not require any supplemental irrigation) and bi-annual applications of a general purpose fertilizer, 10-10-10 or similar.  After that, they are generally on their own without any help!

Typical shaggy bark on 7 year old Overcup Oak. Photo courtesy Daniel Leonard.

If you’ve been looking for an attractive, low-maintenance tree for a pond bank or just generally wet area in your lawn or property, Overcup Oak might be your answer.  For more information on Overcup Oak, other landscape trees and native plants, give your local UF/IFAS County Extension office a call!

False Potato Beetle:  An Overlooked, Destructive Pest of Eggplant

False Potato Beetle:  An Overlooked, Destructive Pest of Eggplant

August is awful.  Its heat makes one miss the relative cool of July.  Its rain is so sporadic that it invokes nostalgia for the rainy afternoons of early summer.  But if there is a silver lining in August for gardeners, it is the simplicity that it brings.  The weaker spring crops, tomatoes, squash and the rest, are all gone now, destroyed or rendered fruitless by insects, disease, and heat.  This leaves only the hardened, usually pest and disease-free survivors Okra, Pepper, Sweet Potato and Eggplant.  I say usually because, this year, my eggplant bed is under attack by a new-to-me pest, the False Potato Beetle!

I’ve dealt with Colorado Potato Beetles (CPB) before.  Those orangish, black-striped terrors often attack my spring potato crops and occasionally bother early tomatoes.  However, I’ve never seen them in late summer on Eggplant.  This raised suspicion.  Also, I spotted unusual, round, whitish purple creatures munching on leaves from the same plants; these appeared to be the larval stage of the unidentified beetle. A little digging led me to identify these garden pests as the lesser known, lookalike cousin of CPB, the False Potato Beetle.

False Potato Beetle munching on an Eggplant leaf in the author’s garden.

False Potato Beetle (FPB) looks nearly identical to its cousin in the adult stage.  They are similarly shaped and colored, though a close look reveals subtle differences between species.  While both have yellowish-orange heads and pale-yellow backs with dark stripes, the FPB’s back is slightly lighter hued, more of a whitish, cream color.  Also, the CPB’s underside and legs are a very dark orange to brown, with the False Potato Beetle having lighter colored legs and underside.  If you’re saying, “These old eyes will never be able to tell the difference, County Agent.  Cream and light-yellow look the same to me.”, I get it.  Fortunately for those of us with poor vision, the larval stage (babies) of the two beetles looks very different and is the key to correct ID!  FPB larvae are larger and have a whitish coloration.  CPB larvae, in contrast, are a similar burnt orange color to the adult beetle.  I promise, the difference is very distinguishable!

False Potato Beetle is considered a minor garden and agronomic pest as they typically only bother Eggplant, and they don’t usually destroy entire plants.  However, if you get a FPB outbreak in your Eggplant garden, they can still be pretty destructive.  These beetles feed in the same manner as caterpillar pests, chewing away entire sections of leaves and stems.  Unchecked infestations can defoliate entire sections of plants.  So, if you find these little beetles eating away at your eggplant garden, what can you do?

False Potato Beetle larvae. Photo courtesy of the author.

First, if you scout regularly, you’ll notice the beetles and their larvae in relatively small numbers before outbreaks become widespread.  I had pretty good success this year just catching infestations early and picking off the beetles I saw and squishing them.  Continue scouting and squishing for a few days and pretty soon,  the population is reduced to a manageable level.  However, if squishing makes you squeamish, you also have some common pesticide options at your disposal.  I normally encourage clients to start their chemical pest control strategy with “softer” products like Pyganic, a pyrethrin make from an extract from the Chrysanthemum plant.  Pyganic works great but is a little harder to find; you may have to order online or ask your local retailer if they can get it for you.  If you are unable to find Pyganic or it doesn’t perform for you, the old standby products with carbaryl or pyrethroids (Sevin, Ortho Bug-B-Gone, and others) also work well.

False Potato Beetle can be a late summer garden pain, but with regular scouting, proper insect ID, lots of squishing, and maybe a timely pesticide application or two, you should be able to continue to harvest eggplant deep into fall!  If you have FPB in your garden or have another horticultural question, give your local UF/IFAS County Extension office a call!  Happy Gardening!

Beneficial Insects Work Hard in Summer Gardens

Beneficial Insects Work Hard in Summer Gardens

I know this is going to come as a shock to some readers, but not all bugs are bad.  In fact, while there are over 1 million species of insects worldwide, less than 1% are problem pests!  This problem 1%, composed of common garden pests, including aphids, stinkbugs, nuisance caterpillars, and scales, get all the attention and for good reason; they can be extremely destructive to home and commercial crops.  However, the good guys, beneficial predatory insects, are out there too, providing valuable pest control day and night and should be considered in part of a quality garden pest management strategy.

Beneficials come in many shapes and sizes.  Some are commonly known predators, such as spiders, Lady Beetles and Praying Mantids, while others are lesser known pest nemeses, like Paper Wasps, Pirate Bugs, and Lacewings.  Regardless, gardeners should do their homework and be able to identify beneficials when they see them and allow them to do their jobs. The presence, or not, of a handful of Lady Beetles or Lacewings on the attack can be the difference between needing to treat with insecticides for an aphid outbreak or just letting nature take its course.  Studies have shown that just one individual Lady Beetle in the larval stage can consume as many as 500 aphids; adult Lady Beetles are even hungrier aphid eaters!  Paper Wasps, you know the ones who make the large “papery” nests around eaves of house and other structures, play an important beneficial role, frequently preying on caterpillars.  If their nests aren’t near highly trafficked areas around your home and you don’t have family members allergic to wasp stings, your garden will thank you for leaving a few paper wasp colonies as caterpillar insurance!

Lacewing eggs on a Jade plant in close proximity to the author’s vegetable garden.

In many instances, beneficial insects can keep pest insect infestations at bay, allowing gardeners to spot treat outbreaks when they get out of hand or even prevent the problem from needing chemical intervention altogether. 

As helpful as they are, beneficial insects in the garden won’t totally negate the need for chemical treatment entirely.  From time to time, garden pest populations outpace the beneficials’ abilities to kill them and intervention from humans is needed.  In these times, it is advisable to use a couple of best practices to limit exposure to beneficial insects.  First, try to use selective insecticides that only target specific pests and are nontoxic to other bugs, like the product Bt for caterpillar pests (sold under many brands like Dipel, Garden Safe Bt Worm and Caterpillar Killer, Thuricide, etc).  However, if a nonselective, general insecticide, like the Pyrethroids (many common homeowner insecticide brands) and carbamates (Sevin and others), is needed, timing these broad spectrum sprays for early in the morning and late in the evening when many beneficials are not very active can help reduce friendly fire casualties.  Care should also be taken to only spot treat infested plants and not the entire garden, this helps reduce beneficial exposure to these broadly toxic pesticides.

Every gardener should have a plan for pest control and beneficials can play an important role in this overall strategy.  Gardeners can help ensure that nature pulls its weight in controlling problem pests by taking a little time to scout for beneficial insect populations, keeping a close eye on developing pest outbreaks, using selective insecticides when you can, and only spraying broad spectrum products as spot treatments when necessary and timing those applications for very early or late in the day.  If you have a question about whether or not a garden insect is a good guy or a pest or want more information on garden pest control strategies, contact your local UF/IFAS County Extension Office!  Happy Gardening!

The following resources were used in the development of this article:

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/florida-friendly-landscapes/beneficial-insects.html

https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/sarasota/gardening-and-landscaping/horticulture-commercial/integrated-pest-management/beneficial-insects/

http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/other/beneficial-insects.aspx

Mysterious Chinese Seeds Show Up on Your Doorstep?  Here’s What to Do

Mysterious Chinese Seeds Show Up on Your Doorstep?  Here’s What to Do

If you’ve paid attention at all to the news recently or been on social media, you’ve no doubt seen the flood of stories about mysterious seeds arriving in thousands of Americans’ mailboxes from various addresses in China.  The packages may be labelled as jewelry or other common items, may have postage written in Chinese characters and have been documented in multiple states, including Florida.  Little else is currently known about the seed packages and it has not yet been documented if the seeds are harmful invasive species or carry other pathogenic organisms that could wreak havoc on local ecosystems. The illicit introduction of seeds from abroad is a serious concern and is being closely monitored and investigated nationally by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) and locally by the Florida Department of Agriculture (FDACS) Division of Plant Industry.

000-Press Release July 27, 20202

Photo courtesy of the Kentucky Department of Agriculture.

How or why these seeds have made it to Floridian’s doorsteps and P.O. boxes is still anyone’s guess, but the bottom line is that the shipping of undocumented plant material into and out of the U.S. is illegal and potentially hazardous to people, the economy, and the environment.  Here’s what to do if one of these packages of seeds shows up in your mailbox:

  • Do not open the seed packets and avoid opening outer packaging or mailing materials.
  • Do not plant any of the seeds.
  • Do not dispose of the seeds; releasing them into our local ecosystems could prove harmful.
  • Limit contact with the seed package until further guidance on handling, disposal, or collection is available from USDA.
  • Report the seeds to your local UF/IFAS Extension office. Your local Extension Agent will be able to help you document and ensure that the seeds are reported to the correct authorities.
  • Make sure the seeds get also get reported to the FDACS Division of Plant Industry at 1-888-397-1517 or online at DPIhelpline@FDACS.gov