Sweet potatoes are ideal for filling the gap between summer and fall crops as they have a long growing season. Photo by Janis Piotrowski.
Take the Summer Off, Grow a Cover Crop
As gardeners in the northern states plant and harvest crops until fall, those in the south know that summers can be brutal. In Florida and other areas in the deep south, temperatures can reach triple digits by the summer solstice, and humidity can make it feel like you’re swimming through the air. Pests, from mosquitos to stink bugs, descend quickly, making it no fun to spend hours weeding and watering in the sweltering heat, only to watch your plants struggle to survive. This is why we take advantage of the summer swelter by relaxing with some ice-cold lemonade and enjoying a well-deserved break.
However, while we take a summer gardening hiatus, it’s essential not to leave our soil bare. Fallow soil can become compacted and lose its structure, as there are no roots to create air channels that allow water from frequent summer storms to penetrate the soil. This makes it more challenging for plants to grow in upcoming seasons and can lead to erosion, nutrient depletion, and weed growth. By planting cover crops during the off-season, gardeners can prevent these issues and improve the health of their soil for fall planting. Cover crops offer a multitude of benefits, such as adding nitrogen to the soil, increasing organic matter content, suppressing weeds, breaking pest and disease cycles, and even providing a crop to harvest in the fall.
Fix Nitrogen with Legumes
Cowpea is a summer annual legume that can fix nitrogen, improving soil fertility for fall crops. Photo by Michasia Dowdy, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org.
Summer cover crops are a great way to keep your garden healthy and productive during the off-season, and leguminous crops like cowpeas, soybeans, and sunn hemp can add an extra boost to your soil’s fertility. These legumes have a unique ability to form a symbiotic relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria in the soil, allowing them to convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that plants can use for growth.
Apart from their nitrogen-fixing properties, leguminous cover crops also have deep taproots that can help to break up compacted soil, improve water infiltration, and reduce soil erosion. When planted in dense stands, they can even suppress weed growth, making it easier to maintain your garden’s health.
It’s important to remember to terminate your leguminous cover crops at the bloom stage, as this is when the nitrogen-fixing nodules on the roots are at their peak. By cutting them down at this point, you can help to release the fixed nitrogen back into the soil, where it will be available for future crop use.
Increase Organic Matter with Buckwheat
Buckwheat not only builds organic matter in soil but it also attracts pollinators. Photo by Russ Ottens, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org.
Buckwheat is an ideal summer cover crop for gardens with poor, sandy soil. It is a rapid grower and can produce a large amount of biomass in a short period of time, which can be used to increase soil organic matter content, improving soil structure. The cover crop’s dense, fibrous root system provides ample surface area for nutrient uptake and helps prevents erosion.
Another major benefit of planting buckwheat is its ability to attract beneficial insects, particularly pollinators like bees and butterflies, which can help increase the yield of crops that rely on pollination for fruit set. Additionally, buckwheat is known for attracting predatory wasps, which can help control insect pests. Buckwheat also has the ability to scavenge phosphorus from the soil, making it available for other crops.
To prevent buckwheat from becoming weedy, it is important to terminate it before it goes to seed. This can be achieved by chopping it down when it starts to flower and leaving it to decompose in place.
Suppress Nematodes with Marigolds
French marigolds can help suppress root-knot nematodes. Photo by North Carolina, USDA APHIS PPQ, Bugwood.org.
Nematodes are microscopic, unsegmented roundworms that can be either be free-living or plant parasites. Among them, the plant-parasitic species, such as the root-knot nematodes, can cause severe damage to crops and even lead to their demise. They are difficult to control as they reside underground or inside plants, and nematicides are not easily available to home gardeners.
However, planting cover crops like African or French marigolds before the main crop can significantly reduce nematode populations. These marigolds release alpha-terthienyl, which suppresses not only root-knot nematodes but also other disease-causing organisms.
Apart from marigolds, several other summer cover crops like sunn hemp and velvetbean can also suppress nematodes, especially for root-knot and sting nematode control.
Cover Crops for the Dinner Table
Growing cover crops that serve a dual purpose of providing ground cover during the hottest months and yielding edible produce in the fall is an excellent way to make the most of garden space. Some examples of such crops are sweet potatoes, field peas, and daikon radishes.
Sweet potatoes are ideal for filling the gap between summer and fall crops as they have a long growing season. They have a deep root system that helps break up compacted soil, and their vines provide ground cover, reducing soil erosion. In the fall, their tubers can be harvested after the leaves have died back to make a nutritious and delicious addition to any meal.
Field peas are a versatile crop that not only provide benefits to the soil as nitrogen fixers and ground covers but also offer delicious edible pods if allowed to develop. There are many types of field peas for which to choose, including black-eyed peas, crowder peas, and cream peas. Pods can be harvested in the fall and used to enhance the flavor of stews, salads, and soups.
Daikon radishes are an excellent cover crop that grow deep to break up soil and they have plenty of flavor for the dinner table. Photo by Guodong Liu, UF/IFAS.
Daikon radishes have a deep taproot that can help break up compacted soil, and their foliage can help suppress weed growth. In addition, daikon radishes can be harvested in the fall and can be used in a variety of dishes such as soups, salads, and stir-fries.
Timing is Everything
To make the most of your summer gardening break, plant cover crops as soon as you conclude your spring harvest, typically from late May through early July. Scatter the seeds evenly over the bed and lightly rake them into the soil. It is important to keep the soil moist during the germination period, which typically lasts four to 10 days depending on the crop.
Regular monitoring of your cover crops as they grow is essential to ensure they are terminated at the appropriate time, preventing them from becoming weeds and competing with other crops. Once terminated, you can leave the cover crop residue on the soil surface as a mulch or incorporate it into the soil.
So, this summer, stay cool and let your cover crops take the heat as they improve soil fertility, increase organic matter, prevent erosion, suppress nematodes, reduce weeds, and even provide food for a fall harvest.
New Zealand spinach has a mild flavor, flourishes in the heat, and can serve as a nutritious summer salad. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr.
If you’ve ever tried growing lettuce (Lactuca sativa), true spinach (Spinacia oleracea), or crops in the cabbage family (Brassica spp.) in late spring or summer in the subtropics of Florida, you know that our extreme heat can make it difficult. Between bolting leaves, fungal diseases, insect pressure, and poor germination, it can be quite a challenge to keep greens on the dinner table all year long.
Fortunately, there are a few greens that – while less well known – can take our Florida heat and are relatively easy to grow. Some of these greens include New Zealand spinach, Malabar spinach, and perpetual spinach. They are frost sensitive and prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soil and require regular watering, but they don’t need a lot of fertilizer or special attention. Additionally, they are resistant to most pests and diseases.
New Zealand Spinach
New Zealand spinach tastes similar to true spinach but can stand up to the Florida heat. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Starr Environmental, Bugwood.org.
New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) is a leafy green that is native to New Zealand, but it is well-adapted to warm climates such as ours. It grows one to two feet in height and branches two to three feet across. In the kitchen, it is known for its mild, slightly salty flavor, and it is a great source of vitamins A and C, iron, and calcium.
New Zealand spinach germinates slowly, taking two to three weeks to sprout. Soaking seeds for 24 hours directly before planting can help them along, but be patient, and keep the planted area weed free.
Sow seeds a quarter-inch deep, two inches apart, and water well, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged. Once germinated, thin to eight to 12 inches apart. After the plant has grown about a foot, harvest a few tender leaves off of each branch, making sure enough leaves remain so the plant can continue to photosynthesize and grow.
Read the UF/IFAS publication Spinach, New Zealand to learn more about growing New Zealand spinach.
Malabar Spinach
Malabar spinach (Basella alba and B. cordifolia) is a fast-growing leafy vine native to tropical South Asia. It is known for its thick, succulent leaves and its slightly lemony flavor. It is a good source of antioxidants, vitamins A and C, iron, and calcium.
Support fast-growing Malabar spinach vines with a trellis or stakes. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Like New Zealand spinach, Malabar spinach is vulnerable to frosts and grows well in hot, humid conditions. Wait until soil temperatures reach 65°F to 75°F to sow or wait at least three weeks after the last frost date. Typically, in our area, it does best sown from mid-April through early June.
Sow seeds a quarter-inch deep, two inches apart. Also, like New Zealand spinach, Malabar spinach can take two to three weeks to germinate, so soaking seeds for 24 hours prior to planting is recommended. Once planted, keep the area weed free and well-watered, but not waterlogged.
After germination, thin the sprouts out so that they are spaced 12 inches apart. In optimal conditions, the plant can reach maturity in 70 days. Vines will continue to grow to 10 feet or longer and will benefit from a trellis, a fence, or stakes to assist in climbing. Harvest the leaves and young stems and prune back any overlong vines.
Perpetual spinach is related to Swiss chard and beets, but it is more “spinach-like” in flavor. Photo by Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company.
Perpetual spinach (Beta vulgaris), or spinach beet, is a leafy green that is the same species as Swiss chard and beets, but tastes more like a true spinach and is known for its mild, slightly sweet flavor. It is a great source of vitamins A, C, and K, as well as calcium, magnesium, and iron.
Perpetual spinach can tolerate cooler temperatures than New Zealand and Malabar spinach, but it also grows well in warm weather and can continue to produce throughout the growing season.
Sow seeds a half-inch inch deep, two inches apart. Water well and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Again, be patient, as like the other heat-loving greens, perpetual spinach can take up to two to three weeks to germinate.
Once the plants have sprouted, thin them out so that they are spaced six to eight inches apart. Begin harvesting by cutting leaves at the base of the stem. If the plants get too big or the leaves begin to taste bitter, cut the leaves back to about three inches above the soil and they will produce new, tender leaves.
While these heat-loving greens do not taste the same as lettuce, true spinach, kale, or collards, they are incredibly versatile in the kitchen and have a unique flavor profile. They can be eaten raw in salads, or they can be cooked in a variety of dishes. For example, New Zealand spinach can be sautéed with garlic and lemon juice, while Malabar spinach can be used as a green in a delicious stir-fry. Perpetual spinach can be used in soups, stews, casseroles, and salads.
Other heat-loving greens to try out in the garden include Okinawa spinach (Gynura crepioides), longevity spinach (Gynura procumbens), and Surinam spinach (Talinum triangulare).
If you are looking to keep homegrown greens on the dinner table this spring and summer, give heat-loving greens a try! They are easy to grow, resistant to pests and diseases, and are great additions to many dishes.
Elephant garlic grows well in our climate, including here at Turkey Hill Farm, where it is being harvested in late spring. Photo by Molly Jameson.
One of my all-time favorite vegetables to grow and eat is elephant garlic. While related to garlic, elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) is actually considered a bulbing leek. Like garlic, it is in the genus Allium, a family of flowering plants that includes over 600 different species of onions, leeks, and garlic that are native to many parts of the world, including North America, Asia, North Africa, and Europe.
Elephant garlic is more mild tasting than regular garlic and can grow up to three times larger than regular garlic bulbs. Photo by Full Earth Farm.
Elephant garlic is very much garlic-like, but it has a milder, slightly sweet flavor and can grow up to three times the size of regular garlic bulbs. It is well-suited for growing in the Florida Panhandle, as it can take our heat and humidity much better than regular garlic.
Elephant garlic is a long season crop, requiring eight months for best results. It therefore should be planted in the fall for an early summer harvest. But if you just can’t wait, you can plant it now and still harvest this summer, but the garlic you harvest will most likely be one big round bulb instead of a bulb that can be separated into cloves.
When planting your elephant garlic, choose a location that receives full sun and has well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. When you are ready for planting, separate the individual elephant garlic cloves from a bulb and plant each six-to-eight inches apart, with the pointed end facing up. Cover the cloves with four-to-five inches of organic-matter-rich soil, and water well. Elephant garlic requires consistent moisture, so be sure to water your plants regularly, especially during any dry spells.
One of the unique features of elephant garlic is that it forms a tall, flowering stalk, or “scape,” in the spring. To encourage the plant to focus its energy on bulb development, remove the scapes. The top of the scape contains an edible round composite flower head that you can enjoy in salads or stir-fries.
Cure elephant garlic in cool, dry, and well-ventilated location. Photo by Molly Jameson.
As your elephant garlic plants mature, you’ll notice that the bulbs start to grow larger, the leaves that wrap the bulbs will decrease, and the tops will begin to turn a lighter green or yellow as they begin to die back. This is a sign that your elephant garlic is ready to be harvested. To harvest, gently loosen the soil around the bulbs with a potato fork and carefully lift them out of the ground.
If you planted late, or your elephant garlic experienced water or nutrient stress, you may still find that some of your harvested garlic only formed one big round bulb. You could leave these giant bulbs in place, and they should turn into cloves the following year. Or go ahead and harvest the big bulbs and use them in the kitchen just like you would regular garlic cloves.
Once harvested, you’ll need to cure your elephant garlic before storing. To do this, lay the bulbs out in a single layer on a dry, well-ventilated surface for at least a week. After the bulbs have cured, you can trim the roots and store them in a cool, dark place for up to eight to 10 months.
While elephant garlic may not be as pungent as regular garlic, it grows much better in our climate than regular garlic, and it still packs a flavorful punch, adding a unique twist to any dish. So why not give it a try in your garden? With a little care and attention, you’ll be enjoying home-grown elephant garlic in no time.
Want to grow a vegetable garden but don’t know where to start?
Raised bed gardens give you the ability to put a garden anywhere you have at least six hours of sunlight and access to water, regardless of your native soil type.
See the fact sheet below (Or Click Here for the downloadable PDF version!) for tips on how to build a raised bed vegetable garden. And be sure to reach out to your local Extension office with any questions!
Page 1 of the Building Raised Bed Gardens Fact Sheet created by UF/IFAS Leon County Extension.Page 2 of the Building Raised Bed Gardens Fact Sheet created by UF/IFAS Leon County Extension.
Come on down to the farm! The 15th Annual Farm Tour is October 15 and 16. Image by Millstone Institute of Preservation.
Fall is upon us, and that means it is farm tour season!
The 15th Annual Farm Tour is on Saturday, October 15 and Sunday, October 16, 2022. Farmers and producers in 12 counties in North Central Florida and South-Central Georgia will be open to showcase their various farming endeavors. It is a free family weekend of learning, exploration, and fun.
The Farm Tour has been organized and hosted by Millstone Institute of Preservation since 2016. It gives the community the chance to explore local producers in our area and become familiar with the farmers that make up our diverse local food system.
There are 40 farms, ranches, farm-to-table restaurants, markets, vendors, and gardens (including the Leon County “VegHeadz” Demonstration Garden on Saturday!) participating in this year’s Farm Tour, some of which have never participated in the past.
There is much to explore during the 15th Annual Farm Tour, including heritage breed livestock. Photo by Rachel Mathes.
The sites span nearly 140 miles east to west, from Greenville, Florida, to Chipley, Florida, and about 80 miles north to south, from Whigham, Georgia, to Crawfordville, Florida.
Each farm is open to the public at no cost, providing the opportunity for participants to learn the importance of supporting local agriculture and how they can do so.
There are many different types of farms to explore, including seeing a multitude of processes and demonstrations firsthand, such as honey harvesting, cow and goat milking, sawmill operating, bamboo extracting, horse grooming, compost turning, flower arranging, seed saving, wine manufacturing, sausage creating, satsuma juicing, cheese making, kombucha brewing, and much more.
You can also sample and purchase local products at many farm tour sites, including local honey, beeswax and honey products, local eggs, homemade breads, fresh veggies, various locally produced meats (bring a cooler!), pumpkins, vegetable seedlings, kombucha, muscadine wines, handmade soaps, fruit trees, cookbooks, and more. Many locations will also be serving food for sale, such as falafel and hummus; baked goods; beef, bacon, and pork burgers; ice cream and coffee; satsuma slushes, cookies, jellies, and syrups; and much more.
