Florida beekeepers are on high alert as the invasive Vespa velutina hornet poses a threat to honey bees, prompting vigilant monitoring to safeguard against potential impacts. Photo by Danel Solabarrieta, licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.
A concerning discovery has emerged in Savannah, Georgia, regarding the yellow-legged hornet, commonly known as the “murder hornet’s cousin.” Officially identified as Vespa velutina by the Georgia Department of Agriculture in August 2023, it was first encountered by a beekeeper in the area.
The size of a nickel, Vespa velutina has distinctive black and yellow coloring with yellow/white legs. Photo by Gilles San Martin, licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.
Although distinctive from the infamous “murder hornet,” the yellow-legged hornet, initially confirmed in Vancouver and the neighboring Whatcom County in Washington state, both hornet species pose threats to honey bee larvae and adults.
Approximately the size of a nickel, Vespa velutina features distinctive black and yellow coloring with yellow/white legs, earning it the nickname “yellow-legged hornet.” The discovery of the yellow-legged hornet has therefore spurred proactive measures to prevent its establishment in Florida and the rest of the United States.
The invasive nature of the yellow-legged hornet, originating from Southeast Asia and first appearing in Europe in 2004, poses a significant threat to beekeepers. This is due to its status as a generalist predator with honey bees as a primary target, intensifying concerns within the beekeeping industry.
The life cycle of the yellow-legged hornet begins with a single queen establishing a nest, laying eggs, and awaiting the emergence of workers. Nests can be found in various locations, growing to an average of 6,000 individuals. Predation on honey bee colonies increases during the summer months, with the hornets mating later in the year. The annual life cycle concludes with the death of all workers and males, and new nests are constructed in the following year.
Vespa velutina secondary nest, with adult hornets huddled together warming up in the sun. Photo by YVO-Photos, Adobe Stock.
Remarkably, a single mated female has the potential to initiate a new colony. Primary nests, starting as small as a tennis ball, undergo significant expansion. Secondary nests, reaching heights of up to one meter and containing over 17,000 cells, are typically situated at altitudes of 60 to 70 feet, making them challenging to access. A single hornet nest has a voracious appetite, as it can consume up to 25 pounds of insect biomass in a single season, underscoring the ecological impact of yellow-legged hornet colonies.
As a predatory wasp, the yellow-legged hornet feeds on a variety of arthropods, displaying opportunistic behavior, including feeding on decaying animals. While the ecological impact is not fully understood, DNA in the gut of hornets shows that they feed on other wasps, bees, butterflies, moths, and spiders. However, honey bees, particularly Apis mellifera, are preferred targets, posing a significant threat to the beekeeping industry. Reports from Europe suggest that up to 30 percent of honey bee hives are weakened by attacks, with approximately five percent facing complete destruction.
A male Vespa velutina, which exhibits longer, thicker antennae compared to females and, in line with all Hymenoptera males, lacks a stinger. Photo by Gilles San Martin, licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.
Initially attracted to the honey bee hive by hive pheromones, yellow-legged hornets position themselves away from hive entrances, waiting for returning foragers, resulting in a “carpeting” of workers at the entrance. This term refers to the clustering or accumulation of honey bee workers near the hive entrance as they attempt to defend against the invading hornets. This behavior unfortunately leads to decreased colony production.
It’s essential to note that there are many domestic species, native to the United States, that closely resemble the invasive hornet but do not pose a threat to honey bees; in fact, many of them are valuable pollinators. The USDA has a photo gallery of these lookalikes, which can be accessed by visiting www.aphis.usda.gov and searching for ‘yellow-legged hornet.’
Vigilance from the public is crucial in minimizing the potential impact of Vespa velutina on honey bee populations in Florida and beyond. Photo by Danel Solabarrieta, licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.
While the yellow-legged hornet can easily be confused with other hornets that are not problematic to honey bees, residents who believe they have identified Vespa velutina are encouraged to call the FDACS hotline at 1-888-397-1517.
If a sample is collected or a clear photo of the suspected hornet is available, please email dpihelpline@fdacs.gov along with location information to facilitate monitoring efforts. Vigilance and cooperation from the public are crucial in minimizing the potential impact of the yellow-legged hornet on honey bee populations in Florida and beyond.
Rudbeckia hirta, commonly known as black-eyed Susan, is a vibrant and hardy wildflower with golden-yellow petals and a dark brown central cone. Photo by kburgess, Adobe Stock.
Florida’s diverse ecosystem showcases a remarkable array of native wildflowers that burst into vibrant colors, particularly during the spring season. Cultivating these indigenous blooms not only enhances the beauty of your lawn but also fosters biodiversity. Florida’s spring landscape comes alive with a vibrant tapestry of native wildflowers, each species contributing its unique charm to the natural scenery.
Yellow, a color that beckons pollinators, especially bees and butterflies, is a prevalent hue among these wildflowers. Many have evolved to showcase bright yellow tones, attracting pollinators, and ensuring the vital transfer of pollen for the continued existence of the plant species. In this spotlight, we’ll explore a selection of my favorite yellow-blooming wildflowers: Leavenworth’s tickseed, dune sunflower, and black-eyed Susan.
Leavenworth’s Tickseed
Leavenworth’s tickseed showcases brilliant yellow flowers with distinct maroon markings, contributing to its charm as a cheerful and attractive wildflower in gardens and meadows. Photo by Sunshower Shots, Adobe Stock.
Coreopsis, Florida’s state wildflower, boasts 14 native species flourishing in North Florida. Among these, Leavenworth’s tickseed (Coreopsis leavenworthii), predominantly found in Florida, graces the Panhandle region with its distinctive yellow, daisy-like flowers adorned with dark centers and scalloped yellow ray florets.
Thriving in open areas, flatwoods, and prairies, this annual or short-lived perennial becomes a beacon of color in the spring landscape. Ideal for wildflower gardens, Leavenworth’s tickseed requires adequate space for reseeding, best achieved by planting one to two feet apart in the spring for optimal flowering. The plant quickly establishes itself in moist soils, benefiting from occasional pruning or mowing to encourage a second flush of flowers.
Preferably rooted in sandy, well-drained soil, Leavenworth’s tickseed demands full sun exposure for maximum flower production, with moist soils playing a pivotal role in reseeding and maintaining this distinctive species.
Beach Sunflower
Adapting well to both coastal and inland environments, the beach sunflower attracts butterflies and other pollinators with its vibrant blooms. Photo by Nahhan, Adobe Stock.
The beach sunflower (Helianthus debilis), also recognized as the dune sunflower, is renowned for its coastal charm and nearly year-round blossoms. Adapting gracefully to both coastal regions and inland landscapes, this sunflower showcases two-inch flowers resembling daisies or sunflowers, boasting yellow petals and brown centers. A captivating trait is its tendency to follow the sun throughout the day.
When cultivating beach sunflowers, it is essential to allocate ample space for their spreading nature. To maximize visual impact, consider planting them in masses, maintaining distances of three to four feet between each plant. As beach sunflowers may become unruly over time, periodic removal of old stems is advisable. Encouraging new plants to sprout from seeds contributes to a healthier growth pattern. Light trims every three months can further enhance the foliage’s vibrancy and overall maintenance. While acting as an annual in freezing temperatures, the beach sunflower generally reseeds itself and displays admirable tolerance to coastal elements, including salt and wind.
For optimal growth conditions, planting in full sun encourages abundant flowering, although the plant can tolerate light shade for part of the day. Preferably, choose well-drained sandy soils, avoiding persistently moist conditions to ensure the overall health and vitality of the beach sunflower.
Black-eyed Susan
Black-eyed Susans are not only visually appealing but also serve as valuable nectar sources for pollinators, attracting butterflies, bees, and other beneficial insects to the garden or natural habitat. Photo by Green Stock Creative, Adobe Stock.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), a classic native bloom, captivates with its widespread availability and versatile nature as an annual, biennial, or perennial. This resilient plant grows to a height of one to two feet, showcasing rough-textured leaves and deep-yellow aster-like flowers with dark brown disk flowers forming a central dome.
When incorporating black-eyed Susans into your landscape, consider their suitability for mixed wildflower beds, where they effortlessly self-seed in open or lightly mulched areas. Maintaining proper spacing of 14 to 18 inches between plants, vigilant monitoring during extended dry periods, and providing deep watering, when necessary, contribute to the overall health and vitality of these iconic blooms.
Thriving in well-drained soils, black-eyed Susan showcases adaptability to various soil types. Whether exposed to full sun or partial shade, the plant optimizes its blooming potential, enhancing the visual appeal of any landscape.
Encourage Wildflowers in Your Landscape
Selecting native wildflowers adapted to your landscape’s specific soil, light, and drainage conditions is crucial for success. If initial attempts fail, try different species until you find the perfect match, emphasizing the importance of using the right plant in the right place. Thorough watering aids in establishment, but once native wildflowers are established, they generally require minimal irrigation. Avoid overwatering to prevent fungal and rot issues.
Native wildflowers in Florida typically do not need additional fertilization, as it can lead to rapid growth and increased susceptibility to pests and diseases. Embrace the natural resilience of these plants by avoiding unnecessary fertilization. Encourage the persistence of wildflowers by embracing self-seeding, maintaining open, lightly mulched areas for natural germination, and being vigilant when weeding.
Florida’s spring blooming wildflowers, including Leavenworth’s tickseed, beach sunflower, and black-eyed Susan, contribute to the state’s biodiversity. Selecting the right species and providing proper care allows us to cultivate these native blooms and actively participate in conserving Florida’s precious ecosystem.
When a pea seed germinates, it goes through a series of stages: imbibition, activation of enzymes, and radicle and root emergence. Photo by Bogdan Wankowicz, Adobe Stock.
The Science of Germination
Navigating through a few recent hard freezes, the Florida Panhandle’s winter still holds its grip, but a shift is anticipated. As we transition into February and March, the temperatures are likely to soften, offering a milder embrace. Amidst this change, many gardeners eagerly anticipate the surge of new life. This phenomenon is deeply intertwined with the captivating science of germination. It is indeed an intricate process that transforms a dormant seed into a thriving plant.
The Germination Process
Tomato seedlings initially produce cotyledons, serving as temporary nutrient sources, followed by the emergence of true leaves, which engage in photosynthesis and mark the onset of lateral branching. Photo by Baharlou, Adobe Stock.
Germination is when a seed transforms into a seedling, ready to emerge from the soil. But what exactly is happening during this process?
Germination commences with the absorption of water, also known as imbibition. As water is absorbed, the seed swells, softening the seed coat and paving the way for the emergence of the embryo. This pivotal step activates enzymes within the seed, kickstarting the breakdown of stored nutrients, such as starches, into simpler forms like sugars. These nutrients serve as the fuel for the growing embryo until it can harness energy from the sun through photosynthesis.
The first visible sign of this process is the emergence of the radicle, the embryonic root that anchors the plant and facilitates water and nutrient absorption from the soil, establishing a solid foundation for growth. Following radicle development, the embryonic stem begins its upward journey, accompanied by the emergence of cotyledons, or seed leaves, that aid in nutrient storage during the initial stages of growth.
With the growth of leaves, the seedling gains the ability to engage in photosynthesis. This transformative process allows the plant to convert sunlight into energy, fueling further growth and development. The root system continues to expand and branch out, enhancing stability and enabling the plant to absorb water and essential nutrients from the soil.
As the plant progresses through stages of growth, it eventually matures to produce flowers and seeds, completing the life cycle. These seeds, in turn, hold the potential to initiate the germination process anew, perpetuating the cycle of growth and renewal.
Temperature’s Role in Successful Germination
Get a jump start on the spring gardening season by using full spectrum grow lights and heat mats to germinate and grow warm season crops, like tomatoes, indoors. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Temperature is a critical factor influencing the success of germination, serving as a cue for enzymes to initiate their performance. Seeds exhibit distinct temperature preferences, affecting both the likelihood and speed of germination. Understanding these preferences is essential for a thriving garden.
While some seeds, like peppers and tomatoes, flourish in warmer conditions, others, such as lettuce and spinach, prefer cooler environments. It’s crucial to identify the ideal temperature range for your chosen seeds to ensure successful germination. When planning your garden, closely monitor soil temperature and sow seeds at the appropriate time to align with their preferences. For instance, if you’re starting warm season seeds like tomatoes in winter, consider investing in heat mats, a greenhouse, or indoor full spectrum grow lights to maintain a consistent and favorable temperature for germination.
Optimizing germination and ensuring a successful start for your garden hinges on understanding the specific temperature preferences of your crops. Temperature not only influences whether a seed will germinate but also plays a significant role in determining the speed of germination, providing a valuable head start when appropriately managed.
Chilling Requirements for Some Seeds
Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflowers) benefits from cold stratification, a process that involves exposing seeds to cold conditions to break their dormancy and promote germination. Photo by Orestligetka, Adobe Stock.
Some seeds, like black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) and purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), exhibit a preference for a winter chill through a process known as stratification. This involves exposing seeds to cold temperatures before planting. It mimics the conditions these seeds would experience in their native habitats, breaking dormancy and promoting successful germination. If you’re growing seeds that benefit from cold stratification, consider simulating winter conditions by freezing them for at least a month before planting. Additionally, certain seeds benefit from wet stratification, where they are kept moist during the cold treatment.
While stratification is more commonly associated with perennial flowers and woody plants, there are some vegetable seeds that can also benefit from cold treatment. Carrots and beets may experience improved germination rates with a brief period of cold stratification. Keep in mind that while these vegetables may benefit from stratification, it’s not always necessary for successful germination. Many vegetable seeds are adapted to germinate without a cold treatment.
As we anticipate the arrival of spring, let’s not just see seeds as tiny dormant entities but as intricate biochemical wonders waiting to unfold. Germination is not merely a biological process; it is a testament to the resilience and adaptability of life. It is a reminder of the interconnectedness of all living things and the perpetual cycle of growth and renewal that defines the plant kingdom here on Earth.
Vermicomposting is an eco-friendly method for recycling organic waste, improving soil fertility, and boosting plant health. Photo by UF/IFAS.
In a world increasingly focused on sustainability, vermicomposting has quietly emerged as a simple, eco-friendly method to reduce waste and enhance garden soil health. This natural process involves specialized earthworms that convert kitchen and garden waste into nutrient-rich vermicompost, often dubbed “black gold.”
Beyond the environmental benefits, vermicomposting brings tangible advantages to your garden. When integrated into your garden soil, vermicompost enhances soil structure, improving water retention and reducing soil compaction. Moreover, it serves as a slow-release fertilizer, converting nutrients into readily available forms for plant roots. Vermicompost also enriches your soil ecosystem by introducing beneficial microorganisms that help suppress soil-borne pathogens, fostering a healthy environment for your garden and landscape plants.
Finished vermicompost has a crumbly, earthy texture that enhances soil structure, improving its water retention and aeration properties for healthier, more resilient plants. Photo by UF/IFAS.
Below is a summary of the components needed to successfully vermicompost at home.
Worm Bin: Choose a dark-colored, breathable bin that is no deeper than 20 inches. The size of your bin should align with the amount of food waste you produce weekly. As a general guideline, you’ll need approximately 1 sq. ft. of surface area for every pound of weekly food waste. If you’re building a vertical system, consider using three 10-gallon bins, which work well for this purpose.
Worms: You’ll need approximately 1 lb. of Eisenia fetida worm species, which equates to about 1,000 worms, for every 1 sq. ft. of surface area in your bin.
Bedding: Choose moistened carbon-rich organic materials such as newspaper strips with plant-based ink, leaf litter, shredded corrugated cardboard, or coir for bedding. Fill the bin about one-third full of bedding or create a layer no thicker than 6 inches.
Grit: To aid in digestion, mix in one handful of regular soil when you’re starting a new bin.
Food: Worms have a taste for chopped vegetable scraps and most fruits, as well as coffee filters/grounds, leaves, crushed eggshells, and plain grains. As your worm population becomes established, begin feeding them slowly and ensure the food is being consumed before adding more. Smaller food pieces, with greater surface area, are easier for worms to digest. In general, 1 lb. of worms can consume roughly 1/3 lb. of food per day once they are well-established.
Start your fall garden seeds in containers to give them a healthy head start. Photo by Molly Jameson.Seed veggies into starter cell flats using a fine-textured growing medium designed to support seed germination and early seedling development. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Step-by-Step Instructions: Indirect Seeding Fall Veggies
While summer gardens offer a variety of intriguing fruiting crops, I have a special fondness for gardening during the fall season. This preference stems from the reduced pest pressure, decreased need for watering, fewer weeds, and the more favorable cooler temperatures for completing gardening tasks. Although it generally offers a more straightforward gardening experience, achieving success with your fall garden still hinges on applying the right techniques, with one crucial aspect being the care for seeds and young seedlings.
Indirect seeding allows you to nurture your seedlings before they establish their permanent residence in your garden, ensuring their growth into robust, mature plants. Below, you’ll discover a step-by-step guide to indirect seeding and planting for fall vegetables. By following these instructions, you’ll get a head start in cultivating a thriving fall garden that will delight your taste buds.
Seeding into Starter Cells:
While many crops can be started indirectly in starter cells, it’s important to note that root vegetables (such as beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, etc.), peas, and beans are exceptions due to their delicate root systems, which do not transplant well. These particular crops thrive when directly seeded into the garden. Conversely, fall crops that typically benefit from indoor seeding include Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, cilantro, kale, lettuce, mustards, parsley, spinach, and Swiss chard. For Florida planting dates, transplant ability, and other detailed planting information, see Table 1 in the UF/IFAS publication Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide.
If you use fluorescent grow lights, maintain 2 to 4 inches between the top of the seedlings’ canopy and the fluorescent bulbs. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Begin by moistening a starting mix, which is any fine-textured growing medium designed to support seed germination and early seedling development. Fill seed starter cells with this prepared mix, ensuring a level, flat surface.
Create shallow indentations (2-3 times the diameter of the seed) in the starting mix in each starter cell using your finger and place 1-2 seeds in each cell. (Remove all but the strongest seedling if multiple seeds germinate in the same cell.)
To ensure even coverage and prevent clumping, lightly sprinkle dry starting mix over the seeds.
Label with the crop name, variety, and date.
Mist the surface with water from a spray bottle, pump sprayer, or a hose spray nozzle. Maintain moisture levels, avoiding waterlogging.
Before the seeds germinate, keep them in a temperature-controlled room or out of direct sunlight. Germination time varies, but typically takes 5 to 14 days, depending on the crop, environmental conditions, and seed quality. (For fall varieties, germination is best between 50-80°F.)
As soon as seedlings emerge, move them to a sunny location with more than 6 hours of direct sunlight. If temperatures exceed 85°F, provide afternoon shade to protect them from intense heat. If using full spectrum grow lights indoors (such as a T5 fluorescent light fixture), place seed starter cells at a distance of 2 to 4 inches between the top of the seedlings’ canopy and the fluorescent bulbs for 14 to 16 hours a day.
Continue to keep the starting mix moist but not waterlogged.
Up-potting into Larger Pots:
Up-potting refers to transplanting a young plant or seedling from a smaller container or pot into a larger one. While up-potting most seedling crop varieties into larger pots before transplanting into the garden is beneficial, you can skip this step and directly transplant seedlings from the starter cells into the garden if conditions are favorable (maximum air temperature is less than 86°F). However, keep in mind that young seedlings may be more vulnerable to rain, wind, insects, and animal disturbances. Up-potting into larger pots with nutrient-rich potting mix offers better protection and more time for root development.
When up-potting, carefully extract each seedling using a butter knife to avoid disturbing the roots. Photos by Molly Jameson.
When seedlings develop “true leaves” (the second set of leaves after the initial seedling leaves), it is time to transfer them into larger pots (2″-4″ wide).
To start, fill the larger pots about halfway with pre-moistened, nutrient-rich potting mix designed for vegetables, ensuring good drainage.
After thoroughly watering the small seedlings, carefully extract each from the starter cells, using a butter knife for gentle and precise removal to avoid disturbing the roots.
Being careful not to disturb the roots, place each seedling gently into their halfway-filled pot and add more potting mix until the seedling is secure, standing upright, with all roots covered. There should only be one seedling per pot.
Keep seedlings in a sunny location with more than 6 hours of direct sunlight. If temperatures exceed 85°F, provide afternoon shade to protect them from intense heat. If using full spectrum grow lights indoors (such as a T5 fluorescent light fixture), place seedlings at a distance of 4 to 6 inches between the top of the seedlings’ canopy and the fluorescent bulbs for 12 to 14 hours a day.
Continue to keep the potting soil moist but not waterlogged.
Transplanting into the Garden:
When the time is right, dig a small hole in the garden bed and place the plant, along with the potting mix, in the hole, following the crop-specific spacing requirements. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Once the plants have developed strong roots and reach about the height of their pots, they are ready for transplantation into the garden.
If the plants have been indoors under grow lights, allow them to “harden-off” by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for a week. This helps them adjust to wind, direct sunlight, and varying temperatures.
Prepare the garden bed with compost and other soil amendments.
Water the plants thoroughly before carefully removing them from their pots, ensuring minimal disruption to the roots.
For each plant, dig a small hole in the garden bed and place the plant, along with the potting mix, in the hole, following the crop-specific spacing requirements (see Table 1 in the UF/IFAS publication Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide).
Cover the roots and maintain consistent soil moisture, avoiding waterlogging.
In summary, mastering the art of indirect seeding and planting fall vegetables can greatly improve your chance of a successful harvest. From carefully sowing your seeds in starter cells to up-potting and ultimately transplanting into your garden, each step is a vital component of the process. So, roll up your sleeves, get your hands dirty, and witness your fall garden flourish. Happy gardening!
