Bacterial Gall:  A Detrimental Disease of Loropetalum

Bacterial Gall: A Detrimental Disease of Loropetalum

Warm and wet weather in the Florida Panhandle presents the optimum conditions for the development of bacterial gall on loropetalums.  Shoot dieback is usually the first and most noticeable symptom of the disease.  The dieback can be followed down the branch to dark colored, warty galls that vary in size.  The galls enlarge and eventually encircle the branch resulting in branch or plant death.  Olive, oleander, and ligustrum are also hosts for the bacteria that causes the galls, Pseudomonas savastanoi.

Plant Dieback

Dieback symptoms on loropetalum leaf from bacterial gall. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida/IFAS

Bacterial Gall

Bacterial gall on loropetalum. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida/IFAS

 

 

The most common source of bacterial gall is from the plant nursery.  Prior to purchase, inspect plants for galls near the soil line.  If plants have already been installed in the landscape, remove any branches containing galls.  Pruning cuts should be made several inches below the gall.  After each cut, dip pruners in a 10% bleach solution or spray with isopropyl alcohol to avoid spreading the disease to other parts of the plant or other plants.  Prune during dry weather.

The best control for bacterial gall is selecting good quality plant material.  For more information on this disease, please visit:  Bacterial Gall on Loropetalum.  More information on disease issues in the home landscape can be found at:  Lawn and Garden Plant Diseases.

Armyworms Wage War Via Guerrilla Warfare

Armyworms Wage War Via Guerrilla Warfare

Armyworms come in a wide range of colors and sizes.  A few of the prominent species living in Florida are beet, southern, and fall armyworms.  And the term “living” is not an exaggeration,  because Florida is one of the lucky states where it is warm enough for armyworms to overwinter.  They are the snowbirds that never leave!

Armyworm damage in turf.

Armyworm damage on a lawn. Credit: Purdue University

Armyworms are notorious for unanticipated invasions.  They feed on most turfgrass species and most vegetable crops, but they prefer grassy vegetable crops such as corn.  Armyworms feed in large groups and their feeding has been described as “ground moving” in lawns. They feed during cooler times of the day (morning and evening) and they roll up and rest under the vegetative canopy (in the thatch layer in turf and in the base of leaves in vegetables) during the heat of the day.

Armyworms are difficult to control because of their spontaneity.  However, in the lawn they hide in the thatch during the heat of the day.  Over watering and fertilization can increase the amount of thatch.  It is important to follow UF/IFAS guidelines for home lawn management.  A good weed control program can also help to deter armyworms, because weeds serve as an alternate food source.

Numerous chemical control options are available, but softer chemicals such as horticultural oils and insecticides containing the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis are recommended as a first line of defense.  Insecticides should be applied in the morning or evening during feeding time.  For additional control strategies and basic information please visit the UF/IFAS Armyworm Publication Page.

Armyworm damage on corn.

Armyworm feeding on a young corn plant. Credit: University of Illinois

Growing Shiitake Mushrooms on Logs

Growing Shiitake Mushrooms on Logs

Shiitake Mushroom

A shiitake mushroom growing on a log. Credit: Clay Olson, UF/IFAS Extension – Taylor County

Mushrooms are an excellent low calorie food with a high fullness factor (they fill you up).  But the “common” or “button” mushroom lacks natural flavor.  On the other hand, shiitake mushrooms have all the benefits of button mushrooms, but offer a flavor punch and a higher fiber content.  However, they are a bit more expensive.  Wouldn’t it be great if you could grow mushrooms in the home garden?  Growing mushrooms may be easier than you think.

Mushrooms are fungi that grow on rotting organic matter.  Shiitake mushrooms are best grown on hardwood logs.  Oak logs are generally used for a mushroom food source, but sweetgum, red maple, and poplar can also be used.  Logs ranging from a diameter of 2” to 7” and 3’ to 4’ long are recommended.  Once the logs have been cut to size, the fungus inoculation process can begin.  Holes are drilled into the log and the spawn are inserted.  Spawn is a fancy name for the mixture of mushroom roots (mycelium) and a growing substrate (usually made up of compacted sawdust or a wooden dowel).  The plugged holes are sealed with wax.  The inoculated logs should be placed in a cool, moist, well ventilated place.  It can take anywhere from 6 to 18 months for the mycelium to inhabit the logs.  This process is called “spawn run” or “incubation”.  Mushrooms grow best within a temperature range of 50-70°F, so the fruiting process is a spring or fall event.

Capping Spawn Plugs

Capping the spawn plugs. Credit: Clay Olson, UF/IFAS Extension – Taylor County

The recommended mushroom strains for Florida are:  CS-41; CS-15; CS-24; CS-125; CS-16; CS-11; and CS-118.  Favorable conditions are strain-specific, so please do some research before purchasing strains.  A list of supply dealers can be found at the North American Mycological Society webpage.

Mushroom production is a fun activity, but it is extremely labor intensive.  This article is just a brief summary of process.  For more information on producing your own mushrooms, please visit the UF/IFAS Small Farms Mushroom Production webpage.  Mushroom production is not a recommended business venture for Florida, but can be a fun hobby.