by Beth Bolles | Sep 4, 2024
Two years ago, the Escambia Master Gardener Volunteers were gifted with the flowering perennial Sweet Almond bush (Aloysia virgata). It has quickly become a favorite plant of volunteers and garden visitors due to its many attractive features.
Although, Sweet almond bush is not a Florida native, it is Florida-friendly plant for zones 8b -10b. Plants grow very large, from 6-10 feet with branching that can spread out in all directions. In North Florida, plants can be damaged by a freeze but either return from the base or from growing points higher on branches.
One of the best features are the fragrant white flowers spikes that will be present late spring through fall. Many types of pollinating insects will be attracted to the flowers, although sometimes flowers are too high on the plant for many of us to get a good look at pollinator details.
Sweet almond bush blooms. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
We have plants both in full sun and partial shade that are performing well in the Escambia Demonstration Gardens. Plants do receive water when rainfall is lacking for about 5-7 days (or all of August this year in the Northwest Panhandle). You can shape your plant with a little light pruning during the growing season to keep branches a little more in bounds. Don’t forget to start a few new plants from these cuttings and then share a low maintenance plant with your neighbors.
by Ray Bodrey | Sep 4, 2024
Fall is a season that is synonymous for two great joys in life…..football games and the changing leaf colors! However, in Florida we just don’t have the incredible burst of vivid fall leaf color as our northern neighbors enjoy each year, but we do have enough temperate region plants that can give us some seasonal change in foliage.
So what makes this brilliant display of autumn leaf color anyway? This seasonal change is brought on by a few variables, such as lower temperatures, shorter photo period/shorter days and chemical pigments found in leaf tissues. Some of the pigments that give autumn leaves their bright colors are actually present in the leaves as soon as they unfold as flush in early spring. But, during spring and summer, when the plants are growing vigorously, a green-colored material called chlorophyll dominates and shades out the other leaf pigments.
Chlorophyll plays on important role in a process called photosynthesis, which is the process by which plants capture energy from sunlight and manufacture food. Chlorophyll can also be found in water bodies and is an indicator of water quality. As plants get ready for cool season dormancy, the production on new chlorophyll decreases to almost being nonexistent. That’s when the before mentioned pigments, also called carotenoids, take over and make the leaves turn brilliant orange, red, purple and yellow.
There are some plants in the Florida’s landscape that do provide good fall color. Unlike most of the flowering shrubs, which hold their blossoms for only a brief period, the trees and shrubs that turn color in the fall will usually retain their varied hues for a month or more, depending on the weather.
Red Maple. Credit. UF/IFAS Extension
What are some examples of trees that will lend fall color in your Panhandle landscape?
- Shumard Oak
- Turkey Oak
- Ginkgo
- Hickory
- Golden Rain Tree
- Red Swamp Myrtle
- Dogwood
- Red Maple (see photo)
- Sweet Gum
- Black Gum
- Crape Myrtle
- Tulip Tree
- Bradford Pear
- Cypress
What about annuals that provide color in the fall? Petunias, pansies and snapdragons will be in full bloom over the next few months.
Firespike. Credit. UF/IFAS Extension
What about blooming perennials for fall? Salvia, firespike (see photo), chrysanthemum, beautyberry and holly are great for color in the fall and attract wildlife to your landscape.
A mix of these plants will ensure fall color in your landscape. For more information contact your local county extension office.
Information for this article was provided by Patrick Minogue, Forestry Specialist with UF/IFAS North Florida Research and Education Center, as well as the UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions: https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/outdoor-living/gardening-for-fall-color/
by Beth Bolles | Aug 20, 2024
Salvias are a popular group of plants for attracting pollinators and adding lots of color to the landscape. A unique salvia that offers velvety flowers is the Mexican bush sage, Salvia leucantha.
In our heat, Mexican bush sage can tolerate partial shade and likes average water with well drained soils. Plants will not overtake a spot only growing 2-4 feet. The velvety portion of the flower is a purple calyx with the flower petals emerging white or purple. Flower stalks will extend above the foliage to be available to many bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Mexican bush sage planted with ‘First Knight’ pennisetum. Photo by Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
During cold winters, plants can die back to the ground but often return each spring. It is always good to take a few cuttings for new plant starts just in case your plant dies back from heavy rains or drought conditions.
Mexican bush sage can be an accent plant in your garden or used in a small mass of 2-3 plants. Consider adding it with contrasting textures and colors so later summer flowers are easily visible.
by Daniel J. Leonard | Aug 12, 2024
Despite being a near-perfect ornamental for the Panhandle, Crape Myrtle is often misused. Though there are dozens of commercially available varieties in all shapes and sizes, many people choose the wrong one for their yard. The most commonly sold cultivars ‘Natchez’ (white flowers), ‘Muskogee’ (pink flowers), and ‘Tuscarora’ (watermelon red flowers) – all three attain mature heights more than 20’ – are almost always too large for siting near a house or other structure and are often out of scale with landscapes. The simple solution to making the best use of Crape Myrtle in smaller yards (certainly not dramatic pruning – Crape Murder is among the worst landscape sins), is to select a smaller growing variety and ‘Tonto’ is a personal favorite in this category.
‘Tonto’ Crape Myrtle, one of the selections that emerged from Dr. Don Egolf’s Crape Myrtle breeding program at the U.S. National Arboretum over 50 years ago, is among my favorite Crape Myrtle varieties for several reasons. First, Tonto’s fuchsia hued flowers are as vibrant as flowers come; they practically glow in the landscape. The flower show lasts for several months and are a valuable food source for pollinators, bees in particular, in the late summer when few things are blooming. Tonto also is a relatively slow grower that only reaches about 10’ tall and wide at maturity. This allows the variety to be exceedingly versatile in landscapes as it can be used in the background of planting beds, as a specimen plant, limbed up as a small tree in open areas, or even placed in very large containers. Finally, beyond just the flower show and ideal size, ‘Tonto’ has uniquely attractive, cream colored, exfoliating bark and reliably attractive fall foliage. Both these features add interest to landscapes, even when ‘Tonto’ isn’t flowering.
Though ‘Tonto’ sports many unique qualities, it shares many other excellent traits and growing preferences with its Crape Myrtle kin. For best results growing any Crape Myrtle, trees should always be sited in full sun, at least 6-8 hours a day. Shading will result in greatly reduced flowering and lanky plants. Regular watering during the first year after planning while trees are becoming established is helpful, as is periodic fertilizer application. Once established, ‘Tonto’ and all other Crape Myrtles are exceedingly drought tolerant and can get by on their own with minimal inputs from gardeners.
If you’ve been struggling with a Crape Myrtle that has outgrown its site or thinking about planting a new Crape, I’d encourage you to give ‘Tonto’ a look. It’s an outstanding shrub/small tree, will reward you with flaming fuchsia flowers and smooth cream-colored bark each summer, and will never outgrow its space. Plant one today! For more information on growing Crape Myrtles or any other horticultural topic, contact us at the UF/IFAS Calhoun County Extension Office. Happy gardening.
by Joshua Criss | Aug 12, 2024
Managing your soil is easily the most critical task in gardening. Well-managed soils retain water and nutrients, making them available to your plants, thus enabling them to thrive. It may seem daunting, but with a bit of knowledge, you’ll quickly discover that soil management is much simpler than you thought. Soil management can be broken down into two major topics. The first is the physical properties outlined in a previous article, which may be found here. The second, and arguably more complicated of the two, are those chemical properties that drive plant growth.
The What and Why of Soil pH
When considering chemical properties, you first need to look at soil pH. This is the measure of acidity or alkalinity within your soil profile. Innate soil pH is a product of the parent material from which your soil has formed, which tends to be slightly acidic on the Panhandle. Testing is the only accurate way to measure your soil’s pH level and buffering capacity. Your county extension office will be happy to facilitate that testing.
So, why is pH so important to plant growth? You’ll want to manage your soil’s pH for two reasons. The first is that soil acidity greatly influences the form that fertilizers and herbicides take in your landscape. Put into context, if you add fertilizers into the soil with an incorrect pH, that fertilizer may not dissolve in the water present. It will thus be unavailable to your plants. Here is another example of putting the right plant in the right place. Some, such as centipedegrass, thrive in a low-nutrition environment created by a low pH, whereas most vegetable plant species and many other landscape species only want a slightly acidic environment. Placing plants that will grow in the natural pH of your soil is a great way to ensure success in your gardens.
UF/IFAS photo
Ok, you’ve tested your soil and discovered it is not optimal for the plants you want to grow. Fear not, as you can take some actions to adjust your soil’s inherent acidity levels. Keep in mind that any changes will be very localized and are temporary. To raise soil pH, you must apply some version of calcium, colloquially called liming. Your calcium source should be based on soil testing, as different types may also add needed nutrients. Most notably, dolomitic lime will change soil pH while adding magnesium. Soil testing will also tell you to provide the buffering capacity of your soil, which will dictate the amount needed to adjust the soil properly. Soil pH may also be lowered through elemental sulfur additions, but this process is very difficult and may become detrimental to plant growth through repeated application. In this instance, it may be preferable to address via plant selection versus pH adjustment.
How Does Soil Hold Onto Water and Nutrition
The other main consideration for soil chemical properties is cation exchange capacity or CEC. Now, this can be a very complicated topic. Put very simply, it refers to your soil’s ability to retain both water and applied nutrients. It’s important to understand as it holds components critical to plant growth in the root zone of said plants. This happens as there are negative charges on the surfaces of clay particles in your soil that latch onto the positive ions of applied fertilizers.
Photo: University of Georgia Extension
So, what about soils low in clay, such as those in Florida? Organic matter will help in this arena. It mimics clay’s properties and will retain nutrients better than your native soil. However, this is not a pass to add endless amounts of compost, as they come with a nutritive load that must be considered in your garden management plan. Adding 1-3 inches worked into your plant root zone is more than enough when establishing new gardens.
Understanding your soil is critical when gardening anywhere. In Florida, where soils are less than optimal, understanding how water and nutrients are retained and used by your plants will help avoid much frustration. For more information on soil management refer to these IFAS documents, or contact your local extension agent for additional information on this and any topic regarding your gardens and more.
by Daniel J. Leonard | May 9, 2024
In the last couple of weeks, I’ve had multiple questions regarding trees and shrubs that aren’t looking too hot. These types of calls are common this time of year – it has gotten hot and dry, and plants have fully emerged from winter, causing issues that have been hiding under the surface during the dormant season to manifest as crown or branch dieback. While there are a wide variety of things that can cause dieback, in most cases a little detective work can help pinpoint the issue. Let’s look at a few of the most common causes of dieback and some corrective measures that may help restore the plants to health.
The first thing to do when you notice a plant in decline is nothing. Don’t try and oversaturate it with water. Don’t run out and dump a bunch of fertilizer around it. Many times, these panic measures exacerbate the stress the plant is already under. Instead, I encourage you to give us a call at your local UF/IFAS County Extension Office. We can likely help identify the cause of the problem through a site visit to your property or by you sending us diagnostic photos of the plant with a description of what’s been going on with it – the more information you can provide about the plant and the management practices it has experienced, the better (you can email diagnostic images/information to d.leonard@ufl.edu).
The most common cause of tree/shrub dieback that I see arises from improper planting practices. Most landscape plants should be planted at or just above the surrounding soil level, preferably where the topmost root arises from the trunk. To accomplish this, planting holes should be dug slightly shallower than the rootball’s height and about twice as wide. Planting any deeper than that is probably too deep and can cause problems like trunk and root decay, which lead to crown dieback. Unfortunately, once a plant is planted too deep, it cannot be corrected other than digging up and replanting at the proper depth, which may or may not be possible depending on the size of the tree. Another common issue that can arise after planting is girdling roots. This occurs when plants are grown in plastic containers and develop a root system that circles the inner wall of the pot. If not trimmed, the plant’s root system will continue to grow in this manner, eventually encircling the plant’s trunk, cutting off water and nutrient flow, and leading to crown dieback. Fortunately, this condition can be prevented by cutting, removing, or redirecting these roots at planting.
The next most common cause of plant dieback occurs due to soil disturbance by people. It’s easy to forget but the root zone of trees and shrubs can reach out several times farther than the plant is tall and is easily damaged. Disturbances to the root zone from digging or trenching near trees or compaction from prolonged vehicle travel over the area cause damage that might be slow to appear but can lead to plant decline. If you are doing construction or building near a shrub or tree, try to keep digging machinery as far out of the root zone as possible and avoid repeatedly parking or driving vehicles over the root zone area. Like below ground root damage, trunk damage that occurs from injury by string trimmers, mowers, or animal feeding activity can all disrupt the flow of water and nutrients in plants and prove deadly. There is no cure for this type of damage, so employing physical barriers to prevent damage is key.
The last major stress is environmental in nature and is caused by a water imbalance – either too much or not enough. Dry soil conditions during the planting and establishment phases (first several years after planting) should obviously be avoided if possible – keeping the developing rootzone moist and allowing plant roots to establish in their native soil is critical. Too much water can also cause problems for trees planted in poorly drained soil. Excessive moisture leads to root diseases, which ultimately presents as dieback in the canopy. If planting in an area that tends to stay wet, select a species of plant adapted for that sort of site – some species are more tolerant of “wet feet” than others. While many people expect disease and insect damage to be the cause of an unhealthy plant, they’re often not the biggest culprit and, if they occur at all, are generally secondary to one of the above issues.
For more information about crown dieback or declining landscape plants, contact your local UF/IFAS County Extension office. Happy gardening!
