by | Sep 16, 2013
While the recently passed Labor Day is often is touted as the traditional “end of summer,” according to the calendar, fall officially will begin with the fall equinox on Sept. 22nd at 4:44 EDT. In north Florida, however, we know good and well that our summer season extends a good bit longer.
Still, even if it just feels right, there is something going on now. When you walk out in the morning, the air feels just a bit more comfortable. The days are getting shorter, and that is beginning to have an effect. Perhaps it’s just wishful thinking, but if you squint just right, you can ALMOST see the end of our long and brutally hot summer.
The word “fall” commonly conjures up images of harvest, falling leaves, the end of the growing season and the beginning of dormancy leading into winter. For gardeners in North Florida, however, the traditional fall period is not a time of winding things down in the garden or even landscape but of revival and renewed effort. It’s a time when we finally can get back into outside and enjoy ourselves as the debilitating heat of summer starts to lose its grip on the weather.
For the next couple of months we will experience a gradual shift to milder weather. There will be cool spells followed by decidedly hot, summer-like weather, but as we move into late October, cooler weather will begin to dominate the scene. Not until mid-to late November do we generally experience the nippy cold weather and changing leaves that tell us, yes, indeed, fall has finally arrived.
One thing you that you might notice that may surprise you may be an increase of vigor in your warm-season bedding plants in September. Even heat-tolerant flowers do not always look their best in August.
Since shorter days mean fewer hours of intense heat, even though the daytime highs may stay about the same, plants begin to experience less stress. This encourages a “second wind”, if you will, in the flower garden that may last well into October or early November. Given this, consider cutting back some of your summer bedding plants and flowers that have grown tall and leggy over the just passed long growing season. This should be done in by the second or third week in September at the latest – and generally involves cutting plants back about one-third to one-half their height.
While you’re at it, it might be a good idea to impose some order on those overgrown flower beds. In addition to cutting back, groom plantings to remove dead flowers and unattractive foliage.
If plants are leaning or have fallen over onto nearby neighbors, prop them up or stake them so they will stand upright. Just about every year at this time I find the remains of some unfortunate plant that was overwhelmed when larger, more vigorous, nearby plants leaned over it.
In addition, if you haven’t done so already, gently trim your everblooming rose bushes, including such popular groups as Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, Miniatures, Teas, Polyanthas, Bourbons, Chinas and English roses, to name just a few. This should be a very light trimming, little more than deadheading, since the main pruning of everblooming types is done in mid February. On the other hand, keep in mind that many old-fashioned climbers, ramblers, Lady Banks roses and some bush roses that bloom heavily only in spring to early summer will bloom next year on the growth they made this summer. Those roses should not be cut back at all now.
Even though you can get back into the garden to work, it is still too early to plant hardy trees, shrubs, ground covers and vines in the landscape. Temperatures in the 80s and 90s likely will be common in September, and that is still too stressful for new plantings. Wait at least until the cooler weather of October, since the ideal planting season for hardy trees, shrubs and ground covers really is from November through February. And for those that like to plant pecan trees, these are often done in bare root when the trunk of the tree is about the size of a pencil. These MUST be done when completely dormant or you will not have a successful outcome.
While Fall is for Planting, be sure that you don’t start too early!
Keep in mind that even though they will begin to show up in area nurseries this month, it is also is too early to plant cool-season bedding plants. Even if you have an area where your summer flowers have finished and have been removed, it is still too hot to plant most cool-season bedding plants. Instead mulch the area now and wait until the reliably cooler weather of October or November before you plant your bedding plants.
Spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, become available this month, but there is absolutely no hurry to plant them. Purchase them if you like while the selection is good, but wait to plant your spring flowering bulbs from mid-October through early December.
Keep in mind that insects and diseases stay active through the fall, so continue to control any pest problems with timely applications of the proper material. In addition, don’t forget, now as always, water well during dry periods, and you should have an excellent crop of flowers in October through November.
I guess if you think about it, it’s best to say that Labor Day really marks that time in north Florida when we can anticipate the soon-to-arrive milder weather and look forward to enjoying the delights of gardening over the next few months. When the fall equinox arrives later this month, don’t get carried away. For us, summer will still be lingering for a little while longer.
by Gary Knox | Jul 29, 2013
Crapemyrtle flowering has been spectacular this year!
While most other garden plants droop from summer’s heat, humidity and heavy rains, crapemyrtle thrives and puts on an outstanding show of flowers all summer and fall. Thanks to modern breeders, there are all sizes of improved hybrid crapemyrtles with flower colors of lavender, purple, white, pink, or red.
Crapemyrtle Cultivar: ‘Tonto’
Image Credit: Gary Knox
Just say “No” to Pruning
- Crapemyrtle varieties come in tree-size, patio tree and shrub categories.
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Tree-size crapemyrtles grow 25 ft. tall and are ideal as flowering trees. Patio tree-form plants (up to 12 ft.) are beautiful as small, flowering specimen plants near patios, walkways, and entrances. Shrub forms (up to 6 ft.) make excellent accents in a shrub border and smaller types are effective as large groundcovers or container plants.
Crapemyrtle Cultivar: ‘Red Rocket’
Image Credit: Gary Knox
- Make sure you buy the right size crapemyrtle for your home. Don’t make the mistake of planting a tree-size crapemyrtle in an area too small for its ultimate size, or you’ll find yourself pruning it hard – and often – to keep it from out-growing its place.
Crapemyrtle Cultivar: ‘Sioux’
Image Credit: Gary Knox
Recommended Varieties
- Some of the best tree-size (25 ft.) types are Natchez (white), Red Rocket® (red), Sioux (pink) and Apalachee (lavender). Superior patio tree crapemyrtles (12 ft.) are Acoma (white), Cheyenne (true red), Tonto (fuchsia red), Hopi (pink) and Catawba (purple). Smaller shrub (6 ft.) crapemyrtles are hard to find, but Cherry Dazzle® is a nice mounding red and Pixie White and New Orleans (purple) are good selections.
Planting and Garden Care
- When it comes to planting, crapemyrtle is very tolerant and forgiving with three exceptions. First, crapemyrtle needs sun to flower freely, so plant it in a site receiving at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. Secondly, crapemyrtle will not grow in wet soils. Finally, never plant crapemyrtle too deep — if you do so, it will punish you by not flowering for years and years. Planting too deep literally smothers the roots, requiring the crapemyrtle to regenerate a new root system in the soil above.
- Crapemyrtle is very drought tolerant and almost seems to thrive on neglect. On the other hand, regular watering and fertilizer will help crapemyrtle grow faster and bigger.
Crapemyrtle Cultivar: ‘Acoma’
Image Credit: Gary Knox
More Beauty on the Way!
- Breeders are continuing to improve and introduce new crapemyrtles. Many new varieties were released in the last couple years. In particular, watch for new types with purple-burgundy leaf color all summer long! Time will tell which new ones grow best in Northwest Florida. Stay tuned as the world of crapemyrtle continues to evolve and improve!
*Gary Knox is Professor of Environmental Horticulture with the University of Florida. He is stationed at the North Florida Research and Education Center in Quincy, where he evaluates more than 100 cultivars of crapemyrtle.
by Beth Bolles | Jul 7, 2013
Bring your own blend of fireworks to the garden this July by adding the Red Rocket Russelia, Russelia sarmentosa to a full sun area.
- Russelia sarmentosa. Image Credit Beth Bolles, University of Florida
A favorite perennial to those who grow it, the Red Rocket has many positive qualities that make it a must have for everyone. Plants form a large group of arching stems that grow 5-6 feet in height. Clusters of tubular red flower occur at each node, covering the entire stem in color. Flowering occurs soon after regrowth from winter cold and continues until the first frost. Once established plants perform well with occasional irrigation or a routine rain shower. The added bonus of this colorful perennial is that hummingbirds visit flowers often to feed on nectar.
by | Jun 21, 2013
Gardeners crave color in shady areas of their landscapes just as much as they do in sunny areas. Unfortunately, shade-loving plants generally are not so flamboyant, and the selection of colorful bedding plants for shady gardens is limited.
Thank goodness for caladiums. Even in fairly heavy shade they can be counted on to provide color through the summer.
Modern cultivars are primarily derived from caladium bicolor and its hybrids with other caladium species. They are grouped under the name Caladium x hortulanum. Caladiums belong to the arum family, which provides us with many tropical landscape plants and houseplants.
Multiple Varieties of Caladiums in Various Colors.
Caladiums are grown for their attractive foliage, which is produced from knobby brown tubers gardeners often call bulbs. The 6-inch to 12-inch, heart-shaped leaves emerge from the ground on arching stems that are generally 1 foot to 2 feet tall.
The foliage may be splashed with combinations of white, pink, rose, red, burgundy, chartreuse or green – often with several colors combined in wonderful patterns. These bright leaves, with their bold texture, embellish our shady gardens from May until October, when the tubers go dormant.
Caladiums also are remarkably free from major insect or disease problems and thrive in hot, humid weather.
They grow best in shade to part shade (two hours to four hours of direct sun, preferably morning sun). In those conditions they produce lush growth with large, colorful leaves.
Some cultivars are tolerant of more sunny conditions and are successful in beds receiving part to full sun (six hours or more of direct sun), but do avoid hot, dry, sunny locations.
Caladium plants you purchase at nurseries usually have been grown in shady greenhouses, so the foliage often will scorch or burn if you plant them into beds that receive too much direct sun. This results in brown areas and holes literally burned into the leaves. If the cultivar is sun-tolerant, new foliage eventually will emerge and adapt to the sunnier conditions, but I still think caladiums planted in full sun always seem to look stressed.
Typical Caladium Tubers Ready for Planting
You can buy caladium tubers now and plant them directly into well-prepared beds. By now, some nurseries have caladium tubers on special sales at a good price, and since our growing season is so long, it is not too late to plant them.
Caladium plants also are available growing in 4-inch to 6-inch pots. They will provide immediate color in the landscape. Plant them about 8 inches to 12 inches apart, and they will grow larger and more beautiful through the summer.
Careful bed preparation will ensure healthy, robust plants. Turn the soil in the area to be planted and then incorporate a 2-inch to 4-inch layer of organic matter such as compost, rotted manure or peat moss. Next, lightly sprinkle the area with an all-purpose fertilizer, following the directions on its package, and rake it into the upper few inches of the soil. As an alternative, a little slow-release fertilizer can be placed around each tuber as it is planted into the bed.
Caladium plants should be planted with the top of the root ball level with the soil of the bed. Plant unsprouted tubers about 2 inches below the soil surface. When planting tubers, you should see growing points or even pinkish-white sprouts on the knobby side of the tuber. That side is planted up. The smoother, rounded side is the bottom of the tuber.
Once they are planted, mulch the bed with 2 inches of your favorite mulch and water in. Keep beds of caladiums well watered during the summer, especially those receiving lots of sun.
The colorful, tropical foliage of caladiums combines beautifully with impatiens, begonias, torenias, liriope, ferns, achimenes, gingers and other shade-loving plants. They generally are more effective when a single color or cultivar is used in a bed or an area of the landscape. If several colors are used, they are most effective when masses or groups of each color are combined in the planting.
In late September or October, cooler temperatures encourage caladiums to go dormant. When grown with poor growing conditions, particularly in areas of deep, heavy shade, the plants will likely produce small, weak tubers that may not return well, whether they are left in the ground or dug and stored. Under the right circumstances and with proper care, however, the tubers you planted this summer can be dug in the fall and planted next April or left in the ground to provide a beautiful display again next year – and for years to come.
All types of caladiums thrive here when they are planted in partly shaded locations. The cultivar you choose is a matter of your individual taste.
Keep in mind that if you are going to be planting caladiums in a sunny location, try these cultivars for better success: Candidum Junior, Carolyn Whorton, Fire Chief, Rosebud, White Queen, Jackie Suthers, Lance Whorton, Miss Muffet, Mumbo, Pink Gem, Red Frill, Sea Gull and Florida Sweetheart.
by Beth Bolles | Jun 17, 2013
There are a couple of possibilities for gardeners who are looking for something a little different than the old favorite French hydrangea. If you want to make your neighbor’s and gardening friends envious, consider adding one of the following selections to your garden.
The first to consider is the ‘Limelight’ hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) which is a hardy shrub and performs well in sunshine. New leaves emerge each spring and large greenish-white blooms emerge in the summer. Blooms may offer a color change into the fall, adding a delicate pink shade. This hydrangea should definitely be installed where it can be viewed and can grow 6-8 feet in height with a similar spread. Once established, it can be tolerant of some drought but will require moisture during extended dry periods.
If you have a garden with more dappled shade, the ‘Fuji Waterfall’ hydrangea is a good selection. This hydrangea will require a soil with more consistent moisture and will offer interesting lacecap blooms that appear to cascade over the dark green leaves. Growth will have a layered look with plants reaching about 3 to five feet in height.
For more information on newer selections of hydrangeas for our climate visit the University of Florida publication New Hydrangeas for North and Central Florida: Bigleaf and Mountain Hydrangeas
by Sheila Dunning | Apr 12, 2013
This month, recognized by the Senate and Florida’s governor, reminds diggers why calling 811 before all outdoor digging projects is important to your safety. Before installing a mailbox, fence, deck, garden or tree make sure to call Sunshine 811 to have underground lines marked. 811 is the free national number designated by the Federal Communications Commission. It notifies utility companies, who in turn send their professional locators to identify and mark the appropriate location of underground line with paint and flags in colors that identify the utility type. The following colors represent the seven various utilities: red – electric, orange – communications (telephone, cable tv), blue – potable water, green – sewer, yellow – gas, purple – reclaimed water, and white – site of intended excavation. To learn more about color designation and their corresponding utility go to: http://www.call811.com/faqs/default.aspx. Locate marks are good for 30 calendar days. Any work beyond that requires another call to 811. If the marks are destroyed before your project is done, stop digging and call 811.
Hitting an underground utility line while digging can cause injuries, utility service outages to an entire neighborhood and damage to the environment. The depth of utility lines varies, and there may be multiple utility lines in one common area. Even if you think you know where an underground line is, time tends to change things. Erosion or tree roots can shift those utility lines. Failure to call before digging results in one unintentional utility hit every eight minutes nationwide. You could also be financially affected with costly fines and high repair costs.
The Common Ground Alliance (CGA) Damage Information Reporting Tool (DIRT) provides industry stakeholders with a way to anonymously submit data into a comprehensive database for analysis of the factors that lead to events. An event is defined by the CGA DIRT User’s Guide as “the occurrence of downtime, damages, and near misses.” The number of events submitted to DIRT for 2011 totaled 207,779. However, according to CGA DIRT “when a call is made to the one call canter (811) prior to excavation, 99% of the time there will be no damage”.
Calling 811 in Florida is the law. At least two full business days before digging, do-it yourselfers and professional excavators must contact 811 by phone to start the process of getting underground utility lines marked. This is a free service. Be sure that all utilities have been marked before grabbing the shovel. If you don’t see locate marks, don’t assume there are no underground utility lines. Verify with the Sunshine 811 Positive Response system. Follow up on your one call ticket by contacting 811 again on the third day. Sunshine State One Call is a not for profit corporation which began with the 1993 adoption of the “Underground Facility Damage Prevention and Safety Act,” Chapter 556, Florida Statutes. Online you can visit: www.online811.com, or call (800) 852-8057. If you provide a valid e-mail when requesting your locate ticket, positive response updates will automatically be sent to you when all utilities have responded. For more information on Florida’s law, visit www.Sunshine811.com.
