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Disposing Of Grass Clippings Can Be A Pain But Alternatives Exist

IMG_4398As if mowing the lawn wasn’t trouble enough, dealing with and disposing of grass clippings is a major pain.

Clumps of grass clippings left on the lawn are unsightly and cause the grass beneath them to turn yellow due to a lack of sunlight as well as oxygen.

That problem is somewhat eliminated if you have a bag attachment on your mower, but handling the grass clippings extends the chore of mowing by taking extra time and effort to repeatedly empty the bag. Then, once clippings are put in garbage bags and placed on the curb, our municipal waste handlers must deal with them.

What to Do?

On the other hand, if we manage our lawns correctly and use proper cutting practices, we can have nice lawns without bagging clippings.

Properly managed, grass clippings will not contribute to thatch buildup or other problems. As they decompose, grass clippings also can supply much of the nutrients needed by your lawn.

Since you’ve already got it, why throw it away?

Bag-free Lawn Care Plan

IMG_4397You can follow this bag-free lawn care plan using a traditional lawn mower:

 

  • For an established lawn, cut at the lower recommended cutting heights for your grass and use the lowest recommended amount of fertilizer. Mowing grass at a lower height will discourage thatch build-up.
  • The rule of thumb for when to mow is to remove no more than about one-third of the leaf area at a time. If this practice is followed, the clippings will be small enough to sift into the turf and naturally decompose near the soil surface.
  • To be successful, you will need to mow frequently enough so that the clippings are not too large. This may mean that the lawn can’t necessarily wait until Saturday morning. You must also mow at the recommended height. To ensure that your blade is set at the recommended height, set the mower wheel height on a concrete surface.

Here are some recommendations on various grasses and the heights at which to mow the grass:

  • Common Bermuda: mow at approximately 1½ inches.
  • Hybrid Bermuda: mow at approximately 1¼ inches.
  • Zoysia: mow at approximately 2 inches.
  • St. Augustine: mow at approximately 3 inches.
  • Centipede: mow at approximately 2 inches.

Under the bag-free plan, you may apply a second application of fertilizer to your lawn this month (The first application should have been done in late April.). But remember that fertilizing grass increases its rate of growth. Reducing the amount of fertilizer you apply to the lawn will reduce the amount of clippings you will have to deal with. However, the one turf I would completely eliminate from a second fertilizer application annually is centipede. Too much fertilization in centipede can cause many more problems than any benefits that may arise from it.

A complete turf fertilizer is recommended for the average lawn. The best is a blend with more nitrogen, little phosphorus and some potash. Fertilizers with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratios of 3:1:2 or 4:1:2 are good for turf. Choose a blend that contains some controlled-release nitrogen for longer feeding.

Don’t forget that recycled clippings also add nutrients, so fertilize at one-half the recommended rates – or not at all – if the grass color, growth and general appearance are acceptable.

Other practices will add to your success. First, don’t over water your lawn. During the hottest summer period lawns don’t need more than about an inch of water a week. Water as needed for weather conditions, and wait until the grass actually shows some stress before watering. Drought-stressed lawns often appear slightly faded, and the grass blades may be folded or rolled up.

Cut your grass when the leaf blades are dry (wait for the dew to dry). The clippings will sift down to the soil better. Make sure your mower blades are sharp, and keep the mower housing clean for best cutting and movement of clippings. You may need to have your mower blade sharpened once or twice in the growing season to properly cut your grass rather than having a dull blade  ear your grass.

If you own or are thinking of buying a mulching mower, you’ll find they do an excellent job of chopping grass clippings and fit very well into this kind of program. Because these mowers are designed specially to chop grass clippings finely and return them to the lawn, they are a bit more forgiving if you wait slightly longer than recommended before mowing. Always avoid letting the grass get excessively tall before you mow.

 For more in depth lawn care information, consult “Your Florida Lawn” or contact your County Extension Agent.

 

Weed Control is not “One Size Fits All”

Weed Control is not “One Size Fits All”

Chamberbitter

Chamberbitter

Above average rainfall this summer has supplied water to more than just our landscapes, weeds are benefiting and flourishing as well.

Just as with any other landscape pest, proper weed control starts with accurate identification and knowledge about the life cycle of the weed.
When weeds are low in number, mechanical control (pulling, mowing) is a good start. If weed population continues to increase and herbicide options are considered, several questions need to be answered before product application.

Questions you need to ask yourself about your weed and site:

  • What weed(s) are you trying to control?
    o Be sure you know what the name of the weed is so that you can find it on your product label “weeds controlled” list; if you need help with identification contact your local county extension office
  • What is your site?
    o Lawn – specific turfgrass is important, what is safe to use on one type may kill another
    o Ornamental beds – again note specific plants near your treatment area in case of sensitivity
    o Water bodies – some herbicides are not labeled for use within a given distance of water; if the weed is in or around the water only use herbicides listed for aquatic weed control
  • What is the life cycle of your weed?
    o Annual – one season life cycle, summer annuals complete their life cycle between spring and fall; winter annuals are active between fall and spring
    o Biennial – two growing season life cycle
    o Perennial – plant lives for three or more years
  • What category does your weed fall into?
    o Grasses – one seed leaf as it emerges from the soil; hollow, rounded, stems with nodes, parallel veins in true leaves; examples are crabgrass, dallisgrass, cogongrass, torpedograss
    o Broadleaves – have two seed leaves and true leaves have net-like veins and usually have showy flowers; examples are lespedeza, dollarweed, clover, chickweed, henbit, florida betony
    o Sedges/Rushes – sedges have solid triangular stems; rushes have round stems; both like moist or wet habitat; examples are purple nutsedge, yellow nutsedge, beak rush
Dollarweed: Image Credit Edis ENH1128

Dollarweed: Image Credit Edis ENH1128

Basic information about herbicide categories:

  • Has the weed emerged (do you see it already?) or are you anticipating it because it was present in the past?
  • Post-emergence Herbicides – these products are for use on weeds that are already growing and are past emergence;  they  generally are most effective on young weeds that are actively growing; products are less effective on weeds that have already flowered or are stressed due to drought or recent mowing 
  • Pre-emergence Herbicides – must be applied before seed germination and require some pre-planning, if applied after weed emergence they will have little to no effect; for control of winter weeds apply when nighttime temperatures drop to 55-60⁰F for several consecutive days (~ early October for North Florida); for summer weeds watch for day temperatures to reach 65-70⁰ for 4-5 consecutive days (~ early March for North Florida), some summer weeds such as goosegrass and chamberbitter germinate later and require different timing, know your weed!
  • What will the herbicide kill?
    o Selective – controls certain plant species without seriously affecting growth of other plant types; for example broadleaf weed killer targets broadleaf plants, although they can still damage turfgrass if not used correctly, always follow the label
    o Nonselective – will kill any green plants whether broadleaf, grass, sedge, or rush; as with any chemical follow all label directions
  • What part of the plant is killed?
    o Contact – affects only the portion of the plant that it comes into contact with, they are not moved throughout the plant so they do not kill any underground plant parts such as rhizomes or tubers; many perennial weeds are able to regrow from their underground parts, so contact herbicides give only temporary results
    o Systemic – the chemical is translocated in the plant’s vascular system; systemic herbicides take longer to show an effect than contact, but will kill more than just the visible leaves and stems
  • As with any other pest management plan, always keep records to include at a minimum:
    Site description
    Pest information
    Control actions taken and success of each method
  • Good recordkeeping will increase your likelihood of success in your fight against weeds!

For more information read EDIS Publication “Weed Management in Home Lawns”