by Gary Knox | Mar 31, 2015
![Figure 1 Note the black sooty mold coating the layers of white and grey scale, believed to be crapemyrtle bark scale, Eriococcus lagerstroemiae. [Photo by Gary Knox]](https://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/hort/files/2015/03/crapemyrtlescalebark1.jpg)
Figure 1 Note the black sooty mold coating the layers of white and grey scale, believed to be crapemyrtle bark scale, Eriococcus lagerstroemiae. [Photo by Gary Knox]
Symptoms and Appearance
An early symptom of crapemyrtle bark scale is black sooty mold covering extensive areas of leaves and stems as a result of honeydew exuded by the scale (Fig. 1). Individual scale insects are white to gray in color and ooze pink when crushed (Fig. 2). Large populations build up in branch crotches and extend up branches, appearing crusty white to gray. This scale usually is not present on new growth, leaves or slender stems unless infestations are heavy.
For more information and additional photos
Resources, up-to-date information and additional photos about crapemyrtle bark scale may be found at http://www.eddmaps.org/cmbs/. This website will be the major portal for information about this pest.
Figure 2. This white to grey colored scale oozes pink when crushed. [Photo by Gary Knox]
Research
Research on crapemyrtle bark scale is ongoing. Scientists from the University of Florida, LSU, University of Arkansas and Texas A&M are collaborating to develop Best Management Practices to manage crapemyrtle bark scale in the nursery and landscape. Initial research is examining the biology of the host-insect interaction to better understand its life cycle and stages when it may be most susceptible for control. Additional research will evaluate pesticides and other IPM strategies for managing this pest.
The expanding distribution of this scale and my personal observations of crapemyrtle bark scale throughout China suggest this scale could have a widespread and severe impact on crapemyrtles in landscapes. Please be on the lookout for crapemyrtle bark scale, and report sightings to your local county extension agent and Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services Division of Plant Industry.
by Beth Bolles | Mar 10, 2015
Although we are not able to grow edible cherry trees in more southern climates, there are a few ornamental relatives of the cherry that are worth adding to the landscape. The Bush cherry, Prunus jacquemontii, is an attractive deciduous shrub that is a highlight with pink blooms in late winter. Flowers provide an early nectar source to bees.
Bees are actively visiting flowers.
Plant the bush cherry is an area that receives sunlight and allows for the rounded shrub to grow about 5 feet by 5 feet. Plants like well-drained soil but benefit from some moisture during the growing season. Small berries serve as a food source for wildlife and can be used in jellies and jams. Leaves turn yellow in the fall before dropping. Plants are generally low maintenance and certainly brighten winter days. 
by Matthew Orwat | Mar 5, 2015
It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words. Please follow as a favorite shrub rose, Belinda’s Dream, is pruned.
Belinda’s Dream Rose – Before pruning, with dense thick growth. Time to open this plant up !
Start pruning by removing dead and diseased wood. Next remove crossing or rubbing branches, unproductive old growth and weak spindly growth
Shorten remaining growth by about half and look ! Your rose is pruned and ready to bear large flowers on long stems for another season !
by Matthew Orwat | Mar 3, 2015
The process of pruning roses. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Many rose enthusiasts ask every season? When do I prune my roses? The general recommendation is February 15th. If that recommendation is followed it’s usually not harmful, though climate can be very different from the coast to the state line . Therefore, my typical answer is to advise gardeners to prune roses when the Azaleas are in bloom. Typically, Azaleas are in full bloom or have finished blooming by the beginning of March. In many areas of the Florida Panhandle this year, they have not started due to late season freezes.
March 1st it is time to prune repeat blooming roses regardless of the condition of the Azaleas, so that gardeners will enjoy a few spring bloom cycles before the heat sets in.
When pruning roses there are several factors that need to be considered. First is the type. Is the rose a Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Old Garden Rose, Shrub or Climber? Is it once blooming or repeat blooming? Once blooming roses and many repeat blooming climbers perform best if pruned after the spring display. This ensures the largest amount of bloom possible.
Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and their ilk are usually pruned back at least by half, keeping the strongest 4-8 canes and removing old, diseased, damage or non productive wood near the base or juncture of a large cane.
Typical “light” pruning of a Hybrid Tea or Floribunda. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Old garden roses are seldom pruned hard. The best method in pruning old garden roses is to remove dead, old or unproductive wood, and eliminate crossing branches and excessive inward growth. This opens up the plant and allows for increased airflow, which reduces disease incidence. Once the plant has been “opened up” it may be pruned back by 1/3 to 1/2. Pruning back Old Garden Roses by 1/3 to 1/2 is not necessary but is often done for space considerations.
A lightly pruned old garden rose. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Many Shrub Roses, such as Knockout, and various Old Garden Roses are trimmed several times a year with hedge trimmers. This is often the only pruning done except for the annual removal of dead or non-productive wood.
Additionally, roses benefit from the removal and disposal of any remaining leaves after the completion of late winter pruning. This helps reduce disease carry over from the previous year and induces a short dormant period.
Along with pruning it is often advantageous to spray with a dormant fungicide spray, such as Lime-Sulfur. This can be found at farm supply stores or nurseries and must be applied according to label directions. It is especially important to cover the skin when using this product, since the sulfur component is caustic to skin in its concentrated form. It will also burn any new growth, so it can only be used during the dormant season.
by Beth Bolles | Feb 10, 2015
Variety is the spice of life and more homeowners are incorporating this philosophy into the design of their homes. Windows especially are becoming more of a design feature, so we should change our philosophy on landscaping around them.
Windows allow us to feel connected to the outdoors and allow natural light to pass into the living area. They let us enjoy flowers, wildlife, and even keep an eye on outdoor activities. Because so many homes are using larger frame windows that may be only two feet off the ground, careful planning of landscaping is necessary so views are not blocked by a mass of branches and leaves.
Many common foundation plants that have been planted around homes in the past may not be good choices for homes with low windows. Ligustrum, various holly and loropetalum species, and several types of azaleas will mature to medium‑sized shrubs and block a good portion of windows in a couple of years. Though continuous pruning can keep these plants low, it also can result in pest problems due to frequent pruning wounds and thick growth.
Foundation plants should create a low‑maintenance landscape. Selecting plants that do not grow into the view of windows will save time and money in unnecessary maintenance activities.
Nurseries carry a wide variety of interesting plants. There are dwarf varieties of evergreen shrubs, such as ‘Prostrata’ Japanese plum yew, ‘Purple Pixie’ loropetalum, and many new dwarf nandinas that can be planted in front of some windows.
‘Purple Pixie’ loropetalum.
Groundcovers, or even flowering annuals and perennials, could also be good choices under windows. These plants can break the monotony of a typical foundation planting.
Maintaining a mass of annual or perennial flowers below front windows will require a little more work throughout the year. The flower planting will have to be weeded, groomed and even replaced from time to time. A separate irrigation zone for the flowering plants will need to be established so that other foundation shrubs do not receive too much water when the annuals and perennials are watered.
Stoke’s aster is an evergreen groundcover for sunny areas.
The are almost endless selections of beautiful sun coleus.
In full sun, consider Stoke’s aster, sun coleus, Dicliptera, daylilies, sedum, or Oxeye daisy, In shade, consider caladiums, ferns and ‘Hip Hop’ Euphorbia.
There are many groundcovers that can be used. Know the growth habit of the particular groundcover since many such as Asiatic jasmine and junipers will spread over large areas. Consider clumping plants like muhly grass or ‘Evergreen Giant’ liriope.
Mulhly grass shows off purplish blooms in the late summer and fall.
Plants aren’t the only possibility for areas around windows. Consider garden ornaments, or create a bird window, with a bird bath, feeder or ground‑feeding area for animals that can be viewed from indoors.
by Larry Williams | Jan 27, 2015
Do you have camellia plants with flower buds that fail to open? Here are possible causes for this problem.
For more information on camellias, contact the UF/IFAS Extension Office in your County or visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep002 to access the publication, “Camellias at a Glance.”
