Rain barrel at the teaching demonstration gardens at the Alachua County Extension Office. Photo Credit: Tyler Jones, UF/IFAS
Water is one of the most valuable natural resources and with the ever growing concern of climate change and the hot dry conditions Northwest Florida has already experienced this summer, every drop counts. One way you could combat this issue is by installing a rain barrel at your home. By having a rain barrel on hand, you can reduce stormwater runoff, potentially save money, and improve the health of your plants. Here’s what you need to know:
What is a rain barrel? A rain barrel is a container or storage tank that collects runoff water from a catchment area (a rooftop). They are typically placed under downspouts and capture the water runoff from your home’s gutters. The type of container used to make a rain barrel could be any type, but it cannot have stored chemicals prior to its use as a rain barrel.
Now that we know the definition, why exactly do people use rain barrels? For one, they aid in water conservation. Rain barrels help reduce the amount of potable water used for outdoor purposes, which is important during dry weather spells and areas known for drought conditions. There are also potential cost savings with using a rain barrel. By using the collected rainwater for watering your garden, cleaning outdoor surfaces, or even washing your car, homeowners could potentially reduce their water bills significantly. Having a rain barrel is also a Florida-Friendly way to gardening. Rain barrel usage co-aligns with the Florida-Friendly Landscaping Principles #2: Water Efficiently and #8: Reduce Stormwater Runoff. The use of rain barrels also aligns with sustainable living. It reduces the reliance on municipal water systems and promotes awareness of water usage and conservation.
To install a rain barrel, you will need to obtain a container or “barrel” that is several gallons large to store the water. You can purchase or make one yourself! It will need a secure lid to prevent debris and insects from getting inside. The barrel will need to be placed under a downspout from your home’s roof gutter systems. The ground will need to be level and the barrel could possibly need to be elevated to make accessing the water easier. Once you have placed the rain barrel in the location you want it, you will need to install a rainwater diverter on your downspout. This will help channel the rainwater into the barrel and can be adjusted once the barrel has become full of water. You will also want to install a spigot near the bottom of the rain barrel to access the water and an overflow valve of some sort. The overflow valve will help redirect excess water away from your foundation when the rain barrel becomes full. Maintenance of a rain barrel is generally very low but you need to check regularly for debris in the water and ensure all the mechanisms are functioning like they should be.
How can you use the water collected in a rain barrel? The most obvious answer would be to water your garden and outdoor plants. Rainwater is perfect for watering the lawn, your flowers, and vegetable gardens. The water quality of collected rainwater is often more beneficial for plants as it is non-chlorinated water. Rainwater is also great for indoor plants too as it decreases the amount of mineral build-up that can occur from using tap water.
By installing a rain barrel at your home, you are taking a small leap with significant environmental impact. It is an easy, cost-effective way to reduce your utility bills, conserve water, and contribute to sustainable living. For more information on rain barrels and how to install one, please visit:
While the Florida Panhandle isn’t considered a true tropical climate, now that the summer rains have started, it sure feels tropical outside. To create high performing colorful containers in these conditions, it’s wise to pick plants that hail from tropical climes – one of my favorites is Crossandra (Crossandra infundibuliformis).
Native to tropical Sri Lanka and India, Crossandra is built for hot, humid conditions. An evergreen subshrub growing about 3’ tall in its native range, Crossandra sports glowing orange flower clusters held high on stems that rise above deep green, glossy foliage – a very striking combination. These showy orange flowers arrive once temperatures heat up in the early summer and continue emerging en masse until cool nights stop the show in fall. While deadheading spent flowers can enhance Crossandra’s free-flowering nature, I haven’t found it totally necessary to ensure consistent flowering. In addition to being beautiful, Crossandra’s flower clusters are also attractive to a wide variety of pollinators, including butterflies and dragonflies.
Crossandra growing in partial shade on a patio. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
Adding to Crossandra’s appeal, the species couldn’t be easier to grow if you give it the right conditions. Crossandra prefers to be sited in areas that receive ample sunlight but also get a reprieve from the hottest afternoon rays. This year, I grew one on a deck that receives sun from about 10 am – 2 pm and is then provided filtered shade from a large tree the rest of the afternoon; these conditions seem to be ideal. Crossandra performs best in moist, well-drained soil, making potting mix an excellent option. Daily watering in the summer combined with our (hopefully) frequent rainfall in July and August keeps it wilt-free. I also apply slow-release fertilizer at planting and then supplement with liquid fertilizer periodically throughout the summer. This, combined with regular irrigation, promotes healthy, vigorous growth, and allows the flower show to continue uninterrupted until cool weather finally draws the curtains.
Crossandra is a versatile plant in container gardens, shining in either the role of filler in larger containers or as a solo specimen plant in its own container. In mixed containers, play off of Crossandra’s orange flowers with partial sun foliage plants like Coleus, Elephant Ears, or Hawaiian Ti, or flowering annuals like Browallia ‘Endless Illumination’, Torenia (Wishbone Flower), Blue Daze, or Purple Heart Plant. While Crossandra does well in mixed containers, as a UF graduate, I prefer to stick it in my favorite blue pot for an orange and blue Gator themed solo container!
Regardless of how you choose to incorporate Crossandra into your garden’s design, it will reward you with summer-long orange flowers in a low-maintenance package. Simply place it in morning to early afternoon sun, give it ample water and adequate fertilizer, and enjoy this Florida Friendly Landscaping approved species. Plant one today!
The native Powderpuff mimosa, Mimosa strigillosa, has potential as a turf companion in the North Florida landscape. Learn about the growth of this plant from UF IFAS Escambia Extension to determine if you want to add it as a groundcover or companion plant in your yard.
An interesting phenomenon turned up in my camellia this spring. What has, for years, been a perfectly normal bush – growing its glossy, dark green leaves year ‘round and its showy flowers in the fall – suddenly changed. Its leaves started becoming variegated!
Symptoms of Camellia Yellow Leaf Mottle Virus.
Variegation refers to different colored areas of plant tissue. Most commonly, a plant will have stripes or patches of white leaf tissue along with the normal green. Sometimes, colors can vary or the placement can include stems or fruit. Many cultivated varieties of ornamental plants are selected for these interesting patterns, and sometimes food crops as well. A novel, attractive pattern can make for a very profitable plant. In the 1630s, the price of variegated tulips skyrocketed for several years in the Netherlands. During this period of ‘tulip mania’, a single tulip bulb could potentially sell for ten times the annual income of a skilled artisan. Imagine paying $200,000 for one flower!
A variegated variety of star jasmine, propagated for its coloration.
Some variegations are caused by genetic mutations. Plants that are chimeras have cells with different genetic makeups. These varieties must be propagated by cutting or grafting to preserve both sets of genes. Even if successfully propagated, sometimes individual leaves or branches of these plants might lose one color or the other. A leaf that is completely white won’t thrive; it contains no chlorophyll, which gathers energy from sunlight. A leaf that becomes completely green may outcompete the rest of the variegated plant, leading to a loss of variegation over time.
A randomly occurring genetic mutation in Florida pusley, a common weed of lawns.
Other variegations, such as those Dutch tulips and my camellia, are caused by viruses. Most are not desirable, as they decrease the health of the plant even if they don’t kill it outright. Others will quickly lead to decline and death. A mosaic virus, for example, might make your tomato leaves look interesting, but it will eventually kill the plant. In the case of a camellia, ‘camellia yellow leaf mottle virus’ is usually transmitted during the propagation or grafting process, whether intentionally or not. Camellias affected by this virus are usually not harmed, though a lack of chlorophyll in leaves leads to less energy for the plant to use in growth and producing flowers. Still, sometimes the tradeoff for fancy foliage is worth it!
Some branches on variegated plants may turn completely white (or green).
My camellia must have received a bug bite that transmitted the virus, as I haven’t done any grafting on it. I’ve noticed a few others nearby with similar symptoms. If you see this starting on your plant, you may be able to prune out the affected area before it spreads. Make sure to sanitize pruning equipment with alcohol between cuts, and dispose of infected material if you do remove it. For other unwanted viruses, the solution may be a bit more extreme. If you cannot prevent infection in the first place through sanitation and insect control, disposal of the entire plant is often the only option that will keep the virus from spreading to other nearby plants. For any plant disease or pest issue, scout regularly and address the issue before it becomes too big. Consult your local Extension office for information or check out our EDIS publications on specific topics at https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/.
Citrus scab, caused by the fungal pathogen Elsinoë fawcettii, is a common disease affecting citrus trees in the home landscape such as satsuma mandarins, tangelos, grapefruit, and other tangerine hybrids. This disease affects the leaves, fruit, and twigs of citrus trees, creating unattractive, wart-like lesions. While citrus scab is rarely fatal to the tree, it can reduce the quality and marketability of the fruit.
Citrus scab on young satsuma mandarin fruit. Photo Credit: Danielle Williams
Identification and Symptoms
The most noticeable symptom of citrus scab is the development of corky, irregularly shaped lesions on the surfaces of leaves and fruit. These lesions start as small, pale, slightly raised areas that gradually enlarge and turn dark brown to light gray. On leaves, the lesions often appear on the lower surface, giving them a warty appearance. Fruit may exhibit scab lesions, which can cause deformities and discoloration, making them less appealing for consumption, however it does not make the fruit inedible.
Raised lesions of citrus scab on leaf. Photo Credit: Danielle Williams.
Understanding the Disease Cycle
Citrus scab thrives in warm, moist conditions and is primarily spread through wind-driven rain that carries the fungal spores to new infection sites. The spores can overwinter in infected plant debris and on asymptomatic parts of the tree, leading to new infections during the growing season. Recognizing this cycle can help residents take preventative measures during critical times of the year.
Management and Control
To keep citrus scab at bay, homeowners should employ a combination of cultural practices as well as careful chemical use when necessary.
Cultural Practices
Sanitation: Regularly remove and dispose of fallen leaves, fruit, and other plant debris to reduce the number of overwintering spores. This practice is particularly important in the fall and early spring.
Pruning: Prune the tree to improve air circulation within the canopy. This reduces humidity levels around the foliage, making the environment less conducive to fungal growth.
Irrigation Management: Avoid overhead irrigation. Overhead watering can splash spores onto healthy tissue, spreading the infection. Instead, water trees at the root zone or use microsprinkler irrigation.
Chemical Control:
Fungicides: Applying fungicides can help protect new growth from infection. Copper-based fungicides are commonly used and can be effective. It is important to read and follow the product label on application timing and directions for use. Typically, fungicides for controlling scab should be applied in early spring when new growth begins.
Conclusion
Regularly inspect your citrus trees for signs of citrus scab, especially after periods of rain and humidity. Early detection and treatment are crucial to prevent widespread infection. Maintaining a healthy tree through proper fertilization, watering, and pest management can also reduce the tree’s susceptibility to diseases like citrus scab.
