by Jennifer Bearden | Feb 4, 2017
Despite efforts by public and private land managers, feral hog populations continue to rise in many areas in Florida. Feral hogs damage crop fields, lawns, wetlands, and forests. They can negatively impact native species of plants and animals. Their rooting leads to erosion and decreased water quality.
Wild boar Photo Credit: Florida Fish & Wildlife Conservation Commission
There are several options for controlling feral hogs. Choosing the right option depends on the situation.
Options include:
- Hunting with dogs,
- Hunting with guns,
- Box Traps,
- Corral Traps.
Let’s talk about these options.
Hunting with dogs is really not very effective for removing enough hogs to control populations. Dog hunting can move sounders of hogs from areas where damage is occurring for a period of time. This can be helpful when crops need to be protected from hog damage until they can be harvested.
Shooting hogs also is not effective for removing large numbers of hogs. Situations where it is successful include protecting crop fields and for taking hogs that will not go into a trap. Shooting success depends the education level of the hogs and the sophistication of the shooting equipment available. Hogs learn quickly to avoid danger. They learn by watching other hogs who get shot or trapped. Hunting pressure can disrupt hog patterns and make them harder to trap or hunt.
Box traps can be effective at trapping young hogs that are not trap smart. A study conducted by a graduate student, Brian Williams, at Auburn University looked at the efficacy of different trap styles. Young hogs entered box traps and corral traps at similar rates. The study also found that adult females were 120% more likely to enter corral traps than box traps and adult males were more reluctant to enter either trap style but were more likely to enter the corral traps. (Williams et al, 2011)
Corral traps are shown to be most effective for eliminating complete sounders. By eliminating a sounder at once, populations can be reduced. Corral traps are also more economical. In the Auburn study, the trapping cost per pig for box traps was $671.31 and for corral traps was $121.28.
Corral traps are best for capturing whole sounders. Box traps can be effective for capturing young hogs. When trap smart adult females or males are in an area, shooting or hunting with dogs are options. Just remember that hunting pressure often just moves the hog problem onto another property. In order to eliminate hogs from a given area, we must employ several of these strategies. For example, we may be able to trap a sounder in a given area but still have a group of boars that will not go into a trap. In this case, we may set up to shoot them after trapping the rest of the hogs in a corral trap. By using these two techniques, we can drastically reduce the number of hogs in an area.
[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsGJP_HjR60]
For more information about feral hogs, go to http://articles.extension.org/feral_hogs.
Reference: Brian L. Williams, Robert W. Holtfreter, Stephen S. Ditchkoff, James B. Grand Trap Style Influences Wild Pig Behavior and Trapping Success. Source: Journal of Wildlife Management, 75(2):432-436
by Jennifer Bearden | Nov 18, 2016
Freshly processed venison. Photo credit: Jennifer Bearden
When hunting, food safety begins in the field. The goal is to have safe meat for you and your family to eat. Here are a few ways to keep your food safe:
- Shot placement – that’s right. Food safety begins with an accurate shot. Your goal should be to prevent the contents of the digestive tract from touching the meat. A gut shot can quickly ruin meat and make cleaning the animal harder.
- The quicker you get the meat chilled the better. Improper temperature is meat’s number one enemy. The recommended storage temperature to prevent bacterial growth is 35-40°F.
- Handle the knife with one hand and the carcass with the other. The hide can harbor dirt and pathogens so care should be taken to prevent contamination of the meat.
- Have vinegar water and chlorine water on hand. Vinegar water (50/50) can be sprayed on areas where hair or hide touch the meat. Rinse hands and tools periodically in a bucket of sanitizing solution of 1 tbsp of chlorine per gallon of water.
- Think food safety through the whole process. Prevent cross contamination by keeping anything from contacting the meat unless it has been sterilized. Keep the digestive tract intact and prevent the contents of it from contacting the meat. Chill the meat as quickly as possible. When further processing, continue to use sterile surfaces and tools.
Many hunters age deer meat to increase tenderness and improve flavor. This is safe if done properly. There are two ways to safely age meat. Dry aging in a walk-in cooler or refrigerator is the best but not feasible for all hunters. The walk-in cooler or refrigerator must be clean and have good air circulation and proper temperature control (34-38°F). The meat can aged for 7-21 days depending on the amount of moisture in the cooler. Too much moisture can increase microbial growth on the meat which should be cut away before further processing. There will also be a layer of dry meat that will need to be cut away.
An ice chest can also be safely used to age meat. First, fill the clean ice chest with ice and water. Add meat immediately to ice water and soak for 12-24 hours. This will quickly cool the meat to the proper temperature. Then drain the water out of the cooler and add more ice. Keep cooler drained of water and full of ice for 5-7 days. There may be “freezer burn” on the outside of the meat that can be cut away before further processing.
Remember food safety when further processing and storing. Wild game food safety begins in the field and ends with consumption.
For more information about safe handling of venison:
http://www.noble.org/ag/wildlife/propercareofvenison/
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/food/food_safety/handling/hgic3516.html
by Jennifer Bearden | Feb 12, 2016
Invasive species are non-native or exotic species that do not naturally occur in an area, cause economic or environmental harm, or negatively impact human health. These invasive species have become the number one threat to biodiversity on protected lands. However, invasive species do not know boundaries, and as a result, public, private lands, natural and man-made water bodies, and associated watersheds are affected. National Invasive Species Awareness Week (NISAW) is February 21-27, 2016.
It is estimated that Florida Agriculture loses $179 million annually from invasive pests (http://www.defenders.org/sites/default/files/publications/florida.pdf). Generally, eradication of an invasive species is difficult and expensive. Most of the mitigation efforts focus on control rather than eradication.
EDDMaps (Early Detection and Distribution Mapping System), a web-based mapping system for reporting invasive species, currently has 667 different invasive plants reported in Florida. Many invasive insects, animals and diseases have also landed in Florida. Some famous invasive species in Florida include cogongrass, wild hogs, red imported fire ants, Chinese tallow, and lionfish.
For National Invasive Species Awareness Week, the University of Florida IFAS Northwest Extension District will highlight two invasive species each day. There are a couple of ways to receive this information each day of NISAW:
You can help us control invasive species in several ways. First, always be cautious when bringing plants or plant materials into the state. Plants or even dead plant material can harbor weeds, insects and diseases that can become invasive in our state. Second, when you see something suspicious, contact your local extension agent for help identifying the weed, insect or disease. Third, you can volunteer your time and effort. Invasive species control is difficult and requires a cooperative effort for funding and manpower. The state has several Cooperative Invasive Species Management Areas (CISMA) in which public and private organizations work together to control invasive species in their area. These CISMAs hold work days in which volunteers can help remove invasive species from the environment.
For more information about NISAW or invasive species, contact your local county extension agent.
by Jennifer Bearden | Oct 31, 2015
Deer in velvet. Photo by Jennifer Bearden
When hunting, food safety begins in the field. The goal is to have safe meat for you and your family to eat. Here are a few ways to keep your food safe:
- Shot placement – that’s right. Food safety begins with an accurate shot. Your goal should be to prevent the contents of the digestive tract from touching the meat. A gut shot can quickly ruin meat and make cleaning the animal harder.
- The quicker you get the meat chilled the better. Improper temperature is meat’s number one enemy. The recommended storage temperature to prevent bacterial growth is 35-40°F.
- Handle the knife with one hand and the carcass with the other. The hide can harbor dirt and pathogens so care should be taken to prevent contamination of the meat.
- Have vinegar water and chlorine water on hand. Vinegar water (50/50) can be sprayed on areas where hair or hide touch the meat. Rinse hands and tools periodically in a bucket of sanitizing solution of 1 tbsp of chlorine per gallon of water.
- Think food safety through the whole process. Prevent cross contamination by keeping anything from contacting the meat unless it has been sterilized. Keep the digestive tract intact and prevent the contents of it from contacting the meat. Chill the meat as quickly as possible. When further processing, continue to use sterile surfaces and tools.
For more information on wild game processing safety, you can attend our upcoming Wild About Deer: Game Processing Program on November 14 from 10am to 2pm. We will teach processing safety from field to table. A home-cooked venison meal will be provided. The cost is $20. Please pre-register by calling 850-689-5850.
Wild about Deer Flyer
by Jennifer Bearden | May 1, 2015
Photo by Jennifer Bearden
These days many ponds are just backyard recreational ponds. Management goals vary from owner to another. Some pond owners want very little productivity (very little fish removed). They want little vegetation with just a few fish. This pond is just meant for relaxation and aesthetics. Other pond owners want to fish every once in a while but primarily just want to enjoy the wildlife that’s attracted to it. And then others want to manage their ponds for great fishing whether it’s trophy bass, trophy bluegill or just a good balance of the two.
Each goal has very different management practices associated with it. When a pond owner asks about a management practice like fertilization, my first question to them is, “What is your goal for the pond?”
For a pond that is just for aesthetics with maybe a little fishing, I would recommend not fertilizing it. Once pond fertilization has started abruptly stopping this practice can lead to fish kills and re-establishment of rooted plants across the bottom.
When nutrients are added into a pond, they eventually make their way into fish tissue. They can be removed from the pond in the form of removing the fish to keep the pond balanced. Also, fertilization increases the number of microscopic plants, phytoplankton, that are suspended in the water. This gives the pond a green color and can block sunlight to rooted plants along the bottom of the pond. Microscopic plants are the bottom of the food pyramid in the pond. An increase in these plants leads to an increase in the number of fish in the pond.
I would only recommend beginning a fertilization program if a pond is going to receive heavy fishing pressure and the pond owner is willing and able to commit to continuing the fertilization program.
The desirable pond pH for fishing is 6.0-8.0. Some panhandle soils are acidic and have a lower pH value. You can raise the pH by adding lime but always test your water pH before adding lime.
Pond owners should monitor the water clarity using a secchi disk. The secchi depth will tell the pond owner if fertilization is needed or if the pond is in need of aeration. Each year, the fertilization program should begin when water temperatures exceed 65°F and end the program when they fall below 70°F. You can read more at Fertilization of Fresh Water Fish Ponds
