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Nature Tourism in the Panhandle – the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) – 30A in Walton County

Nature Tourism in the Panhandle – the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) – 30A in Walton County

The "Prayer of the Woods" is an attitude that many in this part of the panhandle try to live.

The “Prayer of the Woods” is an attitude that many in this part of the panhandle try to live.

Photos: Molly O’Connor

30A in south Walton County is a special place.

Undiscovered for years, then developed… but developed more sustainably than most coastal panhandle communities – this area has now become a go-to destination for many in the southeastern U.S. Grayton Beach, Seaside, Water Color, and others were developed with idea of walkable-biking community and allowing as much nature to remain as possible.  Many subdivisions use native plants for their landscaping.  It is a neat area to explore.

 

My base camp for this part of our ICW tour was Topsail State Park. Though there are numerous other locations to camp, they were all full… the 30A Song Writers Festival was going on at the time.  The first thing I noticed was a bike trail that extends much of 30A itself.  There were locations along the way where visitors can rent bicycles and it is a great way to take in the scenery… and there is scenery.  Some of the more majestic dunes I have seen anywhere along the panhandle are found here.  Dunes in Pensacola use to look like these but storms have taken their toll – somehow the dunes of 30A were spared.

 

 

The spectacular dunes of south Walton County.

The spectacular dunes of south Walton County.

The wind sculpted plants of the tertiary dunes.

The wind sculpted plants of the tertiary dunes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You cannot talk about the dunes without talking about the dune lakes. Scattered across much of the panhandle the highest concentration, and least impacted, of these lakes are found here in Walton County.  These freshwater lakes are separated from the high saline Gulf of Mexico by a field of dunes.  There are channels that connect them but these are sometimes closed by moving sand.  When open, these channels allow the brown tannic waters of the lakes to spill into the Gulf – a weird sight which trigger thoughts of pollution.  You can see evidence of high tides entering the lakes with the presence of cordgrass and needlerush (classic salt marsh plants) and species of marine fish such as stingray and redfish.  There is access to some of the dune lakes via the state parks.  Here there are trails along the shore and through the dunes, and kayaks to rent.  The gulf is not but a few feet away – this is a great place to bring snorkel gear or binoculars for birding.

One of the many "jewels of south Walton" - the dune lakes.

One of the many “jewels of south Walton” – the dune lakes.

In the distance you can see the brown-tannic water of a dune lake entering the Gulf of Mexico.

In the distance you can see the brown-tannic water of a dune lake entering the Gulf of Mexico.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black Needlerush is one of the species of marsh grasses that live in brackish conditions.

Black Needlerush is one of the species of marsh grasses that live in brackish conditions.

 

Dune trail at Grayton Beach State Park

Dune trail at Grayton Beach State Park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Gulf of Mexico in south Walton County.

The Gulf of Mexico in south Walton County.

Another view of the Gulf of Mexico.

Another view of the Gulf of Mexico.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The boardwalk of Deer Lake State Park off of Highway 30-A. you can see the tracks of several types of mammals who pass under at night.

The boardwalk of Deer Lake State Park off of Highway 30-A. you can see the tracks of several types of mammals who pass under at night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are additional state park and state forest trail heads along 30A to explore. Accommodations are hard to come by during peak season so you will have to plan ahead – but a few days here is worth it.

 

If visiting the Escambia / Santa Rosa area be sure to check out the Naturally EscaRosa website and download the app to find great outdoor adventures in the western panhandle.

They Call it “Sea Lice”

They Call it “Sea Lice”

I have played in the waters of the northern Gulf of Mexico all of my life… but I have never heard of this – “sea lice.” It has been in the news recently and I have had a couple inquiries concerning it so I decided to investigate.

 

A few weeks ago there was a report of “sea lice” in Walton County. Bathers were leaving the water with a terrible skin condition that was itchy and painful, particularly in areas beneath their bathing suits.  Photos of this show a series of welts over the area – almost like a rash.  What was causing it?  And what can you do about it?

Illustration of the "thimble jellyfish". Graphic: University of Michigan

Illustration of the “thimble jellyfish”.
Graphic: University of Michigan

My first stop was Dr. Chris Pomory, an invertebrate zoologist at the University of West Florida. Dr. Pomory indicated that the culprit was most probably the larva of a small medusa jellyfish called the thimble jellyfish (Linuche unguiculata), though he included that it could be caused by the larva any of the smaller medusa.  Dr. Maia McGuire, Florida Sea Grant, told me a colleague of hers was working on this issue when she was in grad school at the University of Miami.  Published in 1994, it too pointed the finger at the larva of the thimble jellyfish.  Here I found the term “Sea Bathers Eruption” (SBE) associated with occurrences of this.  I also found another report of SBE from Brazil in 2012 – once again pointing the finger at the thimble jellyfish larva.  So there you go… the most probable cause is the larva of the thimble jellyfish.  Note here though… Dr. McGuire indicated that SBE was something that was problematic in south Florida and the Caribbean… reports from the northern Gulf are not common.

 

So what is this “thimble jellyfish”?

Most know what a jellyfish is but many may not know there are two body forms (polyp and medusa) and may not know about their life cycles. The classic jellyfish is what we call a medusa.  These typically have a bell shaped body and, undulating this bell, swim through the water dragging their nematocyst-loaded tentacles searching for food. Nematocysts are small cells that contain an extendable dart with a drop of venom – this is what causes the sting.  Nematocysts are released by a triggering mechanism which is stimulated either by pressure (touch) or particular chemicals in the water column – hence the jellyfish cannot actually fire it themselves.  The thimble jellyfish are dioecious, meaning there are male and females, and the fertilized eggs of the mating pair are released into the ocean.  These young develop into a larva called planula, and these seem to be the source of the problem.  Drifting in the water column they become entrapped between your skin and your bathing suit where the pressure of the suit against the skin, especially after leaving the water, causes the nematocyst to fire and wham – you are stung… multiple times.  The planula larva are more common near the surface so swimmers and snorkelers seem to have more problems with them.

 

So what can be done if you encounter them?

Well – there are two schools of thought on this. (1), go ahead and stimulate the release of all nematocysts on your body and get it over with or (2) do everything you can to keep any more nematocysts from “firing”.  Some prefer #1 – they will use sand and rub over the area where the jellyfish larva are.  This will trigger the release of any unfired nematocyst, you will deal with the pain, and it will be over.  However, you should be aware that many humans have a strong reaction to jellyfish stings and that firing more nematocysts may not be in your best interest.  Some will want to take a freshwater shower to rinse them off.  This too will trigger any unfired nematocysts and you will be stung yet again.  Using vinegar will have the same response as freshwater.

So what do you if you DO NOT to get stung more? Well… the correct answer is to get the bathing suit off and rinse in seawater that DOES NOT contain the larva… easier said than done – but is the best bet.

 

Is there any relief for the pain and itch?

Dr. McGuire provided the following:

Once sea bather’s eruption occurs (and you have taken off your swimsuit and showered), an application of diluted vinegar or rubbing alcohol may neutralize any toxin left on the skin. An ice pack may help to relieve any pain. The most useful treatment is 1% hydrocortisone lotion applied 2-3 times a day for 1-2 weeks. Topical calamine lotion with 1% menthol may also be soothing. Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs such as ibuprofen and aspirin (but not in children) may also help to reduce pain and inflammation. If the reaction is severe, the injured person may suffer from headache, fever, chills, weakness, vomiting, itchy eyes and burning on urination, and should be treated with oral prednisone (steroids). The stinging cells may remain in the bathing suit even after it dries, so once a person has developed sea bather’s eruption, the clothing should undergo machine washing or be thoroughly rinsed in alcohol or vinegar, then be washed by hand with soap and water. Antihistamines may also be of some benefit. Other treatments that have been suggested include remedies made with sodium bicarbonate, sugar, urine, olive oil, and meat tenderizer although some of these some may increase the release of toxin and aggravate the rash. Symptoms of malaise, tummy upsets and fever should be treated in the normal fashion.

 

This is a “new kid on the block” for those of us in the northern Gulf. It has been in south Florida and the Caribbean for a few decades.  As the Gulf warms, more outbreaks may occur, there is really not much to be done about that.  Hopefully most reactions will be minor, as with any other jellyfish sting.

For more information visit the Florida Department of Health.

Sea Grant Monitors Occurrence of Goliath Groupers in the Panhandle

Sea Grant Monitors Occurrence of Goliath Groupers in the Panhandle

For several years now Dr. Angela Collins, with Florida Sea Grant, has been conducting research on the status of the Goliath Grouper.  This extremely large member of the Family Serranidae has been of concern to fishermen, divers, and resource managers in south Florida.  The harvest of goliath groupers has been prohibited since 1990 but their populations have certainly increased.  Once found throughout the Gulf region, they became rare from recreational and commercial harvesting in the 1970’s and 80’s; most of the fish that were encountered were encountered in southwest Florida.  Today, their numbers have increased and records of the animal have been logged from Tampa Bay, the Big Bend, and now from the Panhandle region. At this point FWC is not sure whether the numbers have recovered enough to remove the ban from harvesting.

Three goliath groupers over wreck in southwest Florida. Photo: Bryan Fluech Florida Sea Grant

Three goliath groupers over wreck in southwest Florida. Photo: Bryan Fluech Florida Sea Grant

 

Each year, during the first week of June, Dr. Collins conducts a statewide survey of Goliath Grouper encounters.  She is particularly interested in Goliath Grouper sightings in the panhandle.  This year the survey will begin this Sunday – June 5 and extend to Saturday June 11.  Any diver interested in participating in the survey should contact their local Sea Grant Agent to obtain the official data sheet.  These sheets can be scanned and returned to your local Sea Grant Agent – or you can contact them for alternative methods for submitting the results.

 

We hope local divers will consider helping us with this needed information.  These data sheets will be part of the annual assessment of the status of this neat fish.  For more information visit the Florida Sea Grant website (https://www.flseagrant.org/news/2016/06/great-goliath-grouper-county-provides-fisheries-managers-stock-assessment-data/).

Nature Tourism in the Panhandle – the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) – Point Washington Walton County

Nature Tourism in the Panhandle – the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) – Point Washington Walton County

ALL PHOTOS:   MOLLY O’CONNOR

Continuing our “ecotour” of the Florida Panhandle along the ICW, this month’s stop is in Walton County. Arguably one of the fastest growing counties in the state, South Walton has become a favorite with many.  Relatively undeveloped (as compared to neighboring counties) Walton has an opportunity to develop smarter… and for a lot of it – they have.

 

Entering Walton County from the west you leave the concentrated tourism of Destin and enter Sandestin. Though still highly developed it slowly gives way to the Point Washington area and more open ground.  Here you begin to encounter the famous Dune Lakes.  There are no barrier islands along the coastline of Walton County.  Instead the Gulf meets the peninsula separating it from Choctawhatchee Bay to the north.  Along the Gulf there are magnificent dune fields and freshwater lakes that periodically are open to the Gulf.  The lakes are unique in that they have freshwater habitats and tannic waters as well as saltmarsh and seawater when their “mouths” are open.  This unique situation provides an ecosystem found in few places in our state.  The now famous 30-A travels along these dune lakes across the entire of South Walton.  Two state parks, a state forest, a bike trail, and small communities dot this famous trail.

 

Between 30-A and the Intracoastal Waterway to the north lies the Point Washington State Forest.  Here lie acres of well managed pine forest.  There are many trails that can be hiked, driven, or traversed by horseback.  There are several trails here that are part of state forest’s Trailwalker Program.  A major part of this well managed forest is prescribed burning.

This dune lake at Topsail State Park is one of many "stretched" across South Walton County.

This dune lake at Topsail State Park is one of many “stretched” across South Walton County.

The state park provides kayaks for exploring the dune lake at Topsail. It can be reached by hiking or a tram they provide.

The state park provides kayaks for exploring the dune lake at Topsail. It can be reached by hiking or a tram they provide.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The beautiful beaches of south Walton.

The beautiful beaches of south Walton.

One of the many Florida State Forest trails in South Walton.

Here is one of the many state forest trails used by hikers and joggers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Florida State Forest hiking trail system provides a lot of information about their trails that is very useful.

The Florida State Forest hiking trail system provides a lot of information about their trails that is very useful.

The Florida State Trailwalkers Program is a neat way to encourage locals to visit their "natural landscape". You must hike 10 of the selected trails (on their website provided in this article). There is a log you can download and when you have logged your 10 hikes mail it in. You will receive a free patch indicating you are a "Florida Trailwalker"! This is a great way to explore your "natural Florida".

The Florida State Trailwalkers Program is a neat way to encourage locals to visit their “natural landscape”. You must hike 10 of the selected trails (on their website provided in this article). There is a log you can download and when you have logged your 10 hikes mail it in. You will receive a free patch indicating you are a “Florida Trailwalker”! This is a great way to explore your “natural Florida”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are trails that cross Point Washington State Forest that can be driven, hiked, or even explored on horseback.

There are trails that cross Point Washington State Forest that can be driven, hiked, or even explored on horseback.

Signage educating the public about the benefits of prescribed burning.

Signage educating the public about the benefits of prescribed burning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The renovated Wesley House at Eden Gardens State Park. The Wesley family were in the timber industry.

This is the renovated Wesley House at Eden Gardens State Park. The Wesley’s were in the timber industry.

Eden Garden State park is located north of Highway 98 in south Walton County. Is borders the south side of the ICW near Choctawhatchee Bay. It is a beautiful place.

Eden Garden State Park is located north of Highway 98 in south Walton County. It borders the south side of the ICW near Choctawhatchee Bay and is a beautiful getaway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Partly due to successful bear management and partly due to the increase population of humans in the Florida panhandle, bear encounters are in the increase. This sign at Eden Garden State Park provides information on how to deal with an encounter.

Partly due to successful bear management and partly due to the increase population of humans in the Florida panhandle, bear encounters are in the increase. This sign at Eden Garden State Park provides information on how to deal with an encounter.

 

From Eden Garden State Park you can look across the bayou to the point where the ICW leaves Choctawhatchee Bay and enters a manmade canal locals refer to as "the ditch". Notice the prescribed burn occurring across the bay.

From Eden Garden State Park you can look across the bayou to the point where the ICW leaves Choctawhatchee Bay and enters a manmade canal locals refer to as “the ditch”. Notice the prescribed burn occurring across the bay.

PRESCRIBED BURNING

Now days many are aware of the forest management tool we call “prescribed burning”… but not all. For many people, fires are “wild” and the smoke they generate is an unwanted pain.  Much of the southeast, particularly Florida, encounter thunderstorms with frequent lighting.  These lighting strikes spark fires which burn across acres of forest.  The frequency of the lighting storms – and fires – actually kept the understory below the pines cleared and so the fires typically burned low and slow.  The result was an understory of grasses and wildflowers that supported a wide variety of species including deer and quail.  When he traveled through the southeast in 1775, William Bartram described the longleaf forest as “open and monotonous – going on for miles”.  And this was the case… you could literally see up to a mile across the landscape.  But this “monotonous” landscape was misleading in that there were thousands of species found here – many feel one of the most biological diverse systems anywhere.

 

Today 90% of the longleaf has been logged and much of what remains is fire suppressed. For the reasons mentioned above, residents have resisted the natural burns and many species – gopher tortoises, quail, and indigo snakes to name three – have suffered as well.  There is a move across the southeast to restore the old longleaf pine forest.  These trees produce excellent timber – though it takes longer to grow than the loblolly and slash pine currently grown – and many are managing their property for quail and deer hunting.  Yes… the smoke is a problem but the state forestry system plans their burns to reduce the impact it has on the local community as best they can.  If you really want to see the benefits of a well-managed pine forest, take a hike through one – it truly is amazing.

 

Helping Turtles Cross Our Highways… Safely

Helping Turtles Cross Our Highways… Safely

When doing programs about snakes I find plenty of people who hate them… but I have never found anyone who hated turtles. I mean what is there to hate?  They are slower, none of them are venomous, they have shoulders… people just like them.  And to that point, when people see them crossing the road almost everyone wants to help.  But that can be dangerous – for you and for the turtle.  Here are couple of safety tips you should know before helping a turtle cross the road.

This small turtle can be held safely by grabbing it near the bridge area on each side. Photo: Molly O'Connor

This small turtle can be held safely by grabbing it near the bridge area on each side.
Photo: Molly O’Connor

Your Safety

 

You would be surprised by the number of people, particularly children, that are hit by cars while trying to help turtles cross the road. One story I heard involved nine-year-old girl who was riding in the backseat with her grandmother.  They both saw the turtle trying to cross a busy highway and wanted to help.  The grandmother pulled over to the side but before she could even get the car in park the little girl opened the door and ran into the highway only to be struck by an oncoming car.  We all like turtles, and do not want to see them hit by cars, but as sad as it is to see a turtle hit – it is horrific to see the same happen to a child.  No matter what your age – please watch for traffic before attempting to help a turtle.

 

Turtles Bite

Yep… unlike their reptilian cousins the snakes, lizards, and alligator, turtles do not have teeth… but they do have a beak. The beak is made of a hard bony like material that is blade sharp in carnivorous turtles, and serrated like a saw in herbivorous ones – both can do serious damage.  Some species of turtles feed on a variety of shellfish, and if they can crush shell they can certainly do a number on your hand – so you have to be careful.  First thing you should do is determine whether the turtle needs to be handled.  If traffic is not too bad, or the road not too wide, you may be able to just manage traffic so the turtle can cross on its own.  If you feel that you must handle the turtle, there are safe ways to hold them.  Smaller turtles can be held safely from the sides by grabbing the bridge area – the portion of the shell connecting the top (carapace) to the bottom (plastron).  Many turtles will begin to kick their feet when you do this and their claws may scratch – be prepared for this.  There are two groups of turtles that have extended necks and your hands, grasped near the bridge of their shell, are still within range of their mouths – these are the snapping and softshell turtles.  Both are notorious for their bites.  So how do you handle those?  Below is a short video put together by the Toronto Zoo that gives you some ideas on how to handle those situations.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Lgd_B6iKPxU

 

Turtle Direction

Turtles cross highways for a variety of reasons – females looking for high dry ground to nest, individuals looking for more productive ponds, males looking for females – whatever the reason they are heading that way and will continue to do so. Placing them on the side of the highway where they came from will only initiate another attempt to cross.  Move them to the side of the road they were heading.

 

The majority of turtle crossings occur during spring and summer. Untold numbers are killed each year on our highways – many gravid females carrying the next generation of the species.  Though we encourage turtle conservation in Florida you do have to be smart about it.  If you have any questions about Panhandle turtles in Florida contact your local extension office.