Call 811 before you dig. No one wants a weekend project to be the cause of Internet, phone and cable outages. Worse yet, what if someone gets hurt from contact with natural gas or electrical lines? That’s why it is so important to have buried utilities in the yard located and marked before digging. Sunshine 811 coordinates each individual company to clearly mark where the service lines are located. Homeowners are required by law to contact 811 three days before any soil removal is done. The service is free.
Have information prepared before making the request. Describe the work to be performed (e.g. fence install, landscaping, irrigation install), including the type of equipment that will be used. Specify the exact location on the property and how long the work will continue. Finally, provide all the contact information (e.g. name, phone number, e-mail), should there be any additional questions.
Call 811 or request a single address ticket online. Receive a ticket number and wait two full business days, not counting weekends or holidays. Then contact 811 again. Make sure that all the utilities have responded in the Positive Response System (PRS). Sometimes that may mean that the company doesn’t have anything to make in the area.
If there are utility lines running through the yard, they will be marked with specifically colored paints or flags. Red is used for electrical lines, orange indicates communication lines, yellow means gas, blue is used for potable water, purple is reclaimed water, and green indicates sewer lines. White lines may be used to outline digging areas and pink are temporary survey marks. This is the APWA Uniform Color Code.
Every effort is made to locate the lines as accurately as possible. But, the safest thing to do is hand dig to expose the utility line before using any mechanized equipment. Lines can vary up to 24” from the marked line and depths can be less than 5”. Remember there may be access lines running through the property even if that service isn’t utilized at that address.
Organized and sponsored by Florida Sea Grant, the “Stem to Stern” workshop in November 2023 at the Emerald Coast Convention Center marked a significant gathering in marine conservation and management. This event drew together legal experts, representatives from the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC), local marine resource coordinators, law enforcement, and industry stakeholders to tackle critical issues facing Florida’s marine environments. Through discussions that ranged from legal frameworks for boating and waterway access to environmental conservation strategies, the workshop facilitated a deep dive into the complexities of marine policy and stewardship. Discover new programs, insights, and collective expertise shared at “Stem to Stern.”
Florida Sea Grant Boating and Waterways Workshop
November 2, 2023 Emerald Coast Convention Center
1250 Miracle Strip Parkway SE – Ft. Walton Beach FL
9:00 – 9:25 WELCOME AND INTRODUCTIONS
Welcome
Rick O’Connor (Florida Sea Grant UF IFAS Extension)
Moderators –Mike Norberg and Jessica Valek (Okaloosa County)
Panel Discussion
Ryan Hinely (Northwest Florida Marine Industry)
Capt. Keith Clark (Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission)
Cecilia James (Panhandle Association of Code Enforcement – PAOCE)
Robert Turpin (Escambia County Division of Marine Resources)
Glenn Conrad (U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary)
Phil Horning (Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission)
Pebbles Simmons (Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission)
3:15 – 3:45 WRAP UP – Robert Turpin (Escambia County Marine Resources)
PROGRAM SPONSORS
Acknowledgement
We extend our deepest gratitude to all who contributed to the success of the “Stem to Stern” workshop. To our esteemed speakers, whose expertise and insights into marine conservation and management have been invaluable, we offer our sincere thanks. Your presentations were not only informative but also inspirational, guiding us toward a more sustainable future for our waterways.
A special acknowledgment goes to the members of the planning and program committee. Your dedication and hard work in organizing this event did not go unnoticed. From the initial planning stages to the execution of the workshop, your efforts have been the backbone of this successful gathering.
We also want to thank the authors of the surveys that have provided us with essential data and perspectives. Your research and analysis contribute significantly to our understanding of the challenges and opportunities within Florida boating and waterways.
Lastly, we are incredibly grateful for the support from our sponsors. Your generosity and commitment to Florida Sea Grant and marine conservation have been crucial in bringing this workshop to life. Your support not only made this event possible but also highlights your dedication to safeguarding our marine ecosystems.
Together, we have taken an important step towards protecting and enhancing Florida’s waterways. Thank you for your contributions, commitment, and shared vision for a sustainable future.
Information edited and compiled by: L. Scott Jackson, Chantille Weber, and Amon Philyaw, UF/IFAS Extension Bay County
An Equal Opportunity Institution. UF/IFAS Extension, University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, Andra Johnson, Dean. Single copies of UF/IFAS Extension publications (excluding 4-H and youth publications) are available free to Florida residents from county UF/IFAS Extension offices.
Private well system in Florida. Image: UF/IFAS, C. Wofford
About 2.5 million Floridians rely on private wells for home consumption, which includes water for drinking, cooking, and personal hygiene. Private wells are not regulated by the EPA Clean Water Act, and well users are responsible for ensuring their water is safe to drink.
What should you have your well water tested for?
The Florida Department of Health (FDOH) recommends that well users test their well water once a year for bacteria at a minimum. Another important contaminant to test for is nitrate.
Bacteria: Labs generally test for total coliform (TC) bacteria and fecal coliforms (like E. coli).
Coliform bacteria are a large group of bacteria and most are harmless. But a positive test result indicates that if they are in your water, other pathogens that cause diseases may also be present. They are used as indicator organisms.
Fecal coliform bacteria are a subgroup of coliform bacteria found in human and other warm-blooded animal feces. E. coli are one species and some strains can cause diarrhea, food poisoning and other illnesses.
If your water sample tests positive for only total coliform bacteria or both TC and fecal coliform (E. coli), FDOH recommends your well be disinfected through shock chlorination. You can either hire a well contractor to do this or you can do it yourself. Information for how to shock chlorinate your well can be found at EDIS Private Wells 101: Bacterial Contamination and Shock Chlorination
Take a water sample at the kitchen faucet if this is where you get most of the water that your household consumes. Image: F. Alvarado
Nitrate: The U.S. EPA set the Maximum Contaminant Level (MCL) allowed for nitrate in drinking water at 10 milligrams per liter of water (mg/L). Values above this are a particular concern for infants less than 6 months old because high nitrate levels can cause a type of “blue baby syndrome” (methemoglobinemia), where nitrate interferes with the capacity of hemoglobin in the blood to carry oxygen. It is especially important to test for nitrate if you have a young infant in the home that will be drinking well water or when well water will be used to make formula to feed the infant.
If test results come back above 10 mg/L, never boil nitrate contaminated water as a form of treatment. This will not remove nitrates. Use water from a tested source (bottled water or water from a public supply source) until the problem is addressed. Nitrate in well water can come from multiple sources, including fertilizers, animal waste and/or human sewage, such as from a septic tank.
You should also have your well water tested at any time when:
The color, taste or odor of your well water changes or if you suspect that someone became sick after drinking your well water.
A new well is drilled or if you have had maintenance done on your existing well
A flood occurred and your well was affected
Remember: Bacteria and nitrate are by no means the only parameters that well water is tested for. Call your local health department to discuss what they recommend you should get the water tested for. FDOH also maintains an excellent website with many resources for private well users which includes information on potential contaminants and how to maintain your well to ensure the quality of your well water.
Where can you have your well water tested?
UF/IFAS Extension will be hosting a private well and water quality workshop on April 11 in Blountstown, with a Zoom option. We will cover well and septic system function and maintenance, water testing and how to prepare for hurricane season. We will also offer facilitated water testing. For more information and to register go to our Eventbrite link or you can also register by visiting the Calhoun County Extension Office, (850-674-8323). Last week’s post about the workshop provides more information as well.
In general, many county health departments accept samples for water testing. You can also submit samples to a certified commercial lab near you. Contact your county health department for information about what to have your water tested for. If they don’t offer testing, they often provide the name of certified laboratories near you. Or you can search for FDEP certified laboratories here.
If you have any questions, you can also reach out to me at albertin@ufl.edu or (850)875-7111.
It’s no surprise that it gets hot in Florida during this time of year. We are the “Sunshine State” of course. The National Weather Service issues heat advisories when the heat index is forecast to be over 100°F for at least 2 days and nighttime temperatures are forecast to be above 75°F. The Excessive Heat Warning is when the heat index is forecast to be above 105°F for at least 2 days and nighttime temperatures are not expected to drop below 75°F. If you are like me, I have received many notices of heat advisories and excessive heat warnings over the last few weeks. Just because we are accustomed to this heat does not mean we should not heed these advisories and warnings.
Heat related illnesses include sunburn, heat rash, heat cramps, heat exhaustion, and heat stroke. Heat rash and sunburn can happen even when temperatures are not extreme like now. Remember to apply sunscreen and wear lightweight clothing to protect your skin from the sun’s UV rays. For heat rash, do not allow moisture to stay close to your skin. Wear loose fitting clothing and try to minimize sweating.
Heat cramps, heat exhaustion, and heat stroke are progressive stages of effects of excessive heat on your body. The first stage is muscle cramps or spasms. Once you notice this, you should remove yourself from the heat and physical activity. Drink water or a sports drink and wait for the cramping to subside before returning to physical activity. The next stage is heat exhaustion. The symptoms include heavy sweating, clammy skin, fast heart rate, nausea, dizziness, and fainting. If you experience these symptoms, move to a cool place, and loosen clothing. You can also put cool cloths on your body or take a cool shower or bath. Sip water. If you ignore these symptoms, you can progress to heat stroke. Symptoms of heat stroke include high body temperature, dizziness, headache, nausea, confusion, loss of consciousness. If you find someone with heat stroke, call 9-1-1 at once and move the person to a cool place.
Here are a few steps you can take to avoid heat related illness:
Wear loose fitting, lightweight clothing.
Drink plenty of fluids and stay hydrated.
Avoid excessive caffeine and alcohol intake.
Schedule outdoor activities during the cooler parts of the day.
Plan for breaks in cooler places when enjoying the outdoors.
Don’t forget your sunscreen.
For more information on heat related illnesses and extreme heat in Florida:
Prepare an emergency drinking water supply for your household before a storm hits. Image: UF/IFAS – Tyler Jones.
Hurricane season is just around the corner. During a natural disaster, drinking water supplies can quickly become contaminated. To be prepared, store a safe drinking water supply before a storm arrives. If you are unable to store enough water before a storm, it’s important to know how to make water safe to consume in an emergency.
Before a storm: How much water should be stored?
Store enough clean water for everyone in the household to use 1 to 1.5 gallons per day for drinking and personal hygiene (small amounts for things like brushing teeth). Increase this amount if there are children, sick people, and/or nursing mothers in the home.
Store a minimum 3-day supply of drinking water. If you have the space for it, consider storing up to a two-week supply.
For example, a four-person household requiring 1.5 gallons per person per day for 3 days would need to store: 4 people × 1.5 gallons per person × 3 days = 18 gallons. Don’t forget to include additional water for pets! Store a quart to a gallon per pet per day,depending on their size.
Examples of 3 and 5 gallon food grade jugs for storing water. Image: A. Albertin
What containers can be used to store drinking water?
Store drinking water in thoroughly washed food grade safe containers that are durable and unbreakable such as food grade plastic and enamel-lined metal containers with tight-fitting lids. These materials will not transfer harmful chemicals into the water or food they contain.
Specific examples include containers previously used to store beverages, like 2-liter soft drink bottles, juice bottles or containers made specifically to hold drinking water. Avoid plastic milk jugs if possible because they are difficult to clean. If you are going to purchase a container to store water, make sure it is labeled food-grade or food-safe.
As an extra safety measure, sanitize containers with a solution of 1 teaspoon of non-scented household bleach per quart of water (4 teaspoons per gallon of water). Use bleach that contains 5%–9% sodium hypochlorite. Add the solution to the container, close tightly and shake well. Make sure that the bleach solution touches all the internal surfaces. Let the container sit for 30 seconds and pour the solution out. You can let the container air dry before use or rinse it thoroughly with clean water.
Best practices when storing drinking water
Store water away from direct sunlight, in a cool dark place if possible. Heat and light can slowly damage plastic containers and can eventually lead to leaks.
Make sure caps or lids are tightly secured.
Store smaller containers in a freezer. You can use them to help keep food cool in the refrigerator if the power goes out during a storm.
Keep water containers away from where toxic substances (such as gasoline, kerosene, or pesticides) are stored. Vapors from these substances can penetrate plastic.
When possible, use water from opened containers in one or two days if they can’t be refrigerated.
After a storm: Ensuring a safe drinking water supply
If a boil water notice has been issued in the area you live or you suspect your water supply may be contaminated, don’t consume it. Do not use it for drinking, preparing baby formula or food, making ice (if you have electricity), washing dishes, or brushing your teeth. Don’t swallow water when bathing. If you have any open cuts or wounds, do not use it for bathing. Instead, use your own clean, stored water supply or use bottled water.
If you don’t have access to clean water, you can boil, disinfect, and filter your water during an emergency to make it safe to drink. But, if your water is contaminated by fuel or toxic chemicals, boiling or disinfection won’t make it safe to drink. In these cases, it’s important to call your local health department for guidance and use bottled water instead.
Boiling water is the most effective way to destroy pathogens in water including viruses, bacteria, and parasites such as Cryptosporiduim and Giardia. If the water is cloudy or murky, let it settle and filter it through a clean cloth or coffee filter before boiling.
Once water begins boiling, continue to boil it for at least one minute.
Let the water cool and transfer it to a clean, food-grade container with a tight lid.
You can improve the taste of boiled water by aerating it (transfer water back and forth from one clean container to another) or you can add a pinch of salt for each quart of boiled water.
Disinfecting water will kill most viruses and bacteria, but it’s not as effective in killing parasites (like Giardia and Cryptosporidium) as boiling. Disinfect water by using the following amounts of household chlorine bleach (5%-9% sodium hypochlorite) and water. Do not use ‘splashless’ bleach or scented bleach. If the water is cloudy or murky, filter through a clean cloth or coffee filter before disinfecting. If water remains cloudy, double the amount of recommended chlorine bleach.
Amountof water
Amount of chlorine bleach (5-9% sodium hypochlorite)
Clear water
Cloudywater
1 quart
2 drops
4 drops
1 gallon
8 drops
16 drops
5 gallons
½ teaspoon
1 teaspoon
After mixing in the bleach, let the water stand for 30 minutes. If the water is still cloudy after 30 minutes, repeat the chlorination procedure once.
You can also use chlorine dioxide tablets, or iodine tablets to disinfect water. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for disinfection.
Filtering water – According to the CDC, many filtration systems can remove parasites like Giardia and Cryptosporidium if the absolute pore size is 1 micron or smaller. This does not filter out viruses or many bacteria. When choosing a filter, it’s important to carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions to understand what the system is effective against. The CDC recommends adding a disinfectant to the filtered water (chlorine, iodine, or chlorine dioxide tablets) to kill most viruses and bacteria. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for disinfection.
Health advisories are issued by state and local health departments when levels of fecal bacteria become too high for the public to safely enter the water. Sewage can be a source of these fecal bacteria. They can harbor pathogenic organisms that can cause of a variety of health problems. State and local health departments routinely monitor local waterways, particularly where people recreate, to assure the level of fecal bacteria is not unsafe. It is understood that the presence of fecal bacteria in waterways is normal, animals do go the bathroom, but excessive levels can be unsafe.
Closed due to bacteria.
Photo: Rick O’Connor
In the Pensacola Bay area, most of the human recreation areas near the barrier islands rarely have health advisories issued. Once every few years there is an issue at the sewage treatment facility on Pensacola Beach and an advisory is issued, or a sewage line is broken either near Santa Rosa Sound or Big Lagoon with the same results. But is very rare.
However, our local bayous are different. The neighborhoods are densely populated with old or outdated infrastructure, and how we manage these systems can cause problems as well. We are going to do a three-part series on what property owners can do to help reduce the number of health advisories issued in waterways where they are more common. In Part 1 we will look at how to maintain your septic system.
Septic systems were commonly used decades ago when city limits, and treatment facilities, were smaller. Many communities within our counties are on a septic system, and it falls on the property owner to properly maintain them.
Most understand how the system works, but for those who are not familiar – here are the basics.
When you flush your commode, take a shower, or wash your clothes, the wastewater leaves your house through a series of pipes and empties into a septic tank buried in your yard. These tanks are usually made of concrete and there are different sizes. A typical tank will be about 8 feet long x 4 feet wide x 6 feet deep and hold around 1000 gallons (again, sizes vary). The solid material settles to the bottom where it is broken down by living microbes. The oils and fats float to the surface forming a scum layer. The remaining wastewater settles in the middle of the tank and drains into a drain field through a series of perforated pipes.
The drain field should be made of less compacted soils to allow percolation into the surrounding environment. There is some physical, chemical, and biological treatment of the wastewater as it percolates, but only if the drain field is properly designed and located. For obvious reasons you should not (and most communities will not allow) have your drain field next to an open or public water system. In Florida it is required that the loose uncompacted soils must be no less than 24 inches above the wet/water table.
A conventional septic system is composed of a septic tank and a drainfield, where most of the wastewater treatment takes place. Image: US EPA
It has been found that if the septic system is placed in the correct location and maintained properly, it does a good job of removing pathogens from the wastewater. However, it was not designed to remove nutrients, which can still leach into waterways and cause algal blooms. And the presence of pharmaceuticals and household chemicals are not always removed, which can cause problems for aquatic wildlife. But to reduce health advisories they can work.
So…
How do we maintain our septic system so that it functions properly?
Watch what you pour down your drain. As mentioned above, many household chemicals and pharmaceuticals are not removed and become environmental problems when they leach from the drain fields into the local environment. Fats, oils, and grease (and even milk) can solidify and form the scum layer at the top of the septic tank. These solids can clog the lines running to the septic tank, or the drain field lines themselves. They can create back flows and could cause untreated sewage to back flow into your home. Our local utility offers the FOGProgram. In this program you can visit a local dispensing site (these can be found at ECUA’s website and there is one at the Escambia County Extension Office) to obtain as free 1-gallon plastic jug. Pour your bacon grease, oils, etc. into these containers. When full, return them to the dispensing location and swap out for a clean empty one. The service is free.
Watch how much water you use. As mentioned, septic tanks come in different sizes and are designed for a certain amount of water. “Flooding” of the system can occur if you are using more water than your system is designed for and this could include flooding of semi, or untreated, sewage.
The scum and solid layers of the tank need to be pumped out. It is recommended the septic systems are pumped once every 3-5 years, depending on the size of the tank. A pump out may cost you several hundreds of dollars, but a tank replacement is going to be in thousands – it is a good investment and will help reduce health advisories in local waterways.
Do not drive over your septic system, or drain field, with heavy vehicles. This could crack the tank and/or compact the soils within the drain field.
The FOG gallon containers are found in these metal cabinets placed around the county.
Photo: Rick O’Connor 1-gallon container provided free to dispose of your oil and grease.
Photo: Rick O’Connor
Studies have shown that a properly designed, properly placed, and properly maintained septic system will work well in reducing the presence of pathogenic fecal bacteria in our local waterways for up to 50 years. Note: like all things, even a good septic tank does have a live span. If you do not know the history of your septic system, we recommend you contact a certified professional to come do an assessment.
As always, if you have additional questions, do not hesitate to contact your county extension office.
