Pruning Everblooming Shrubs

Pruning Everblooming Shrubs

When to prune a particular shrub can be a confusing practice for even the most experienced gardener. Luckily there are many plant guides to help remind us of pruning times or even a quick call to your local Extension office.

Now that we finally remember the best time to prune azaleas or French hydrangeas, the nursery throws us a loop with everblooming plants.  Although not new, the Encore® series of azaleas and Endless Summer® collection of hydrangeas have the wonderful characteristic of blooming repeatedly throughout the growing season.  When is the best time for pruning these repeat blooming shrubs?

In general, if you select your Encore® azalea carefully, it should need very little pruning. There are many sizes available to fit every space. Reduce your need for pruning by choosing a selection that will not outgrow your space. For example, Autumn Sangria® is a larger selection to at least 4-5 feet tall while Autumn Embers® is about 3 feet tall.   If your plant needs a little selective pruning, the best time to prune is still after the first initial big bloom in April.

Encore Sangria has vivid pink flowers. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.

Pruning time for Endless Summer is the same for other mophead hydrangeas even though it blooms on both old and new wood. You may selectively prune after the first bloom.  It is always fine to deadhead faded blooms back to the first healthy buds.

 

Crane Flies

Crane Flies

A typical crane fly on the outside of a building. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension

All my life, I’ve known them as mosquito hawks. Built like extra-large, spindly-legged versions of mosquitoes, they look a bit intimidating. However, growing up we were told they were harmless and actually fed solely on mosquitoes. In the days before Google, I just accepted it as fact and was glad to see them around.

In early March, there was a bit of an invasion of these insects. I started seeing them everywhere outdoors and inside my office building. They are slow movers, bouncing in the air more than flying. After several days of seeing them everywhere, though, they pretty much disappeared.

Several crane flies appear to have met their demise inside my office building. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension

Like much folk wisdom accrued through my life, the story of the mosquito hawk is not totally true. They are harmless, that much is correct. While many people do know them as mosquito hawks, the accepted common name is the crane fly. Crane flies come in a wide variety of sizes and colors, ranging as some of the smallest and largest species in the fly Order, Diptera. Their diversity is rather mind-blowing, with the Family Tipulidae including about 15,000 species of crane flies worldwide.

Crane fly larvae live in aquatic environments and feed on decaying plant material. Photo credit: North Carolina State University

As for being voracious predators of mosquitoes, we have no such luck. Crane flies barely eat at all, because their adult life span is as short as those two weeks I recently noticed them around. They spend most of their lives as aquatic larvae, living in streams, pond edges, and rotting vegetation. Adults do not have the right mouth anatomy to eat other insect prey, instead drinking only by sponging up water in dew form or taking nectar from plants. Their primary purpose in adulthood is to complete the mating process. Females lay eggs near water, hence the location as larvae. After this hedonistic spring break experience of adult life, they die.

Crane flies, in both larval and adult forms, are popular snacks for other wildlife. The adults are easy targets for birds and bats. The larvae, which in some species are as large as a pinky finger, are tasty morsels for fish and amphibians.  During their larval existence, crane flies ingest debris, helping with the decomposition process and filtering the water bodies they live in. Despite their short life span, crane flies make an outsized contribution to the food web.

 

Zinnias 101

Zinnias 101

Zinnias are well-known annual flowers, primarily recognized for their easy and fast growth. Their wide range of growing habits contributes to their popularity, as they can range from short and bushy to tall with a singular stalk. Regardless of their growing habit, Zinnias are prolific bloomers. They belong to the aster family and are native to Mexico and Central America, thriving particularly well throughout the South.

Photo: De’Anthony Price

Zinnia Characteristics

There are three distinct types of Zinnias based on floral structure: single, double, and semi-double. The different floral structures do not necessarily correlate with plant habits. ‘Single’ refers to flowers that have only a single row of petals, with the center of the flower clearly visible. ‘Double’ Zinnias have multiple rows of petals, and the center is not clearly visible. ‘Semi-double’ cultivars exhibit a combination of traits, with flowers having multiple rows of petals while still maintaining a clearly visible center.

Pollinators and Zinnias

Zinnias are great for attracting pollinators, especially butterflies. Interplanting zinnias between rows of vegetables or as a border around vegetables is a great way to attract more pollinators to your garden. There are a few guidelines available for attracting butterflies to your yard using zinnias. The taller varieties are better than dwarf or compact cultivars, and those with wide, flat blooms provide a larger landing surface. Flowers should have prominent yellow centers (disc floret); double bloom varieties make it difficult for butterflies to access nectar. It is also possible that some varieties attractive to butterflies produce a larger quantity of and/or better-quality nectar than others.

Photo: UF/IFAS

Planting Zinnias

Zinnias perform better in garden beds than containers and, due to their ability to grow so quickly, can be direct seeded. To direct seed, the soil temp should be at least 70 degrees and plant the seeds at 1/4’” deep. Zinnias can also be planted as transplants and should be done once the soil warms to 60 degrees. Plant spacing can be anywhere from 8 to 12 inches depending on the plant’s habit. Singular stalk varieties can be planted closer together and bushier varieties should be given more space. Zinnias prefer full sun and well-drained soil. For longer flowering, remove the old blooms.

Zinnia Management

When planting zinnias, it’s recommended to incorporate a general-purpose fertilizer with equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium into the soil. Following planting, monthly fertilization with a phosphorus-rich fertilizer is advisable to encourage continuous blooming. Maintaining adequate moisture is crucial for zinnias but avoid overwatering as they thrive in moderately dry conditions. To prevent fungal diseases, water only when the top 1-2 inches of soil are dry, focusing on watering the base of the plant rather than the foliage whenever possible. Powdery mildew is a common issue with zinnias, but it can be managed by applying a fungicide when necessary. However, it’s best to prevent this problem by ensuring good air circulation and avoiding wet foliage.

Photo: De’Anthony Price
Diseased Zinnia

Zinnias as Cut Flowers

Zinnias, known for their vibrant charm, make delightful cut flowers that can brighten up indoor spaces for a week or longer. For optimal longevity, harvest the blooms when their centers are just beginning to unfurl fully. Trim away lower leaves and promptly place the cut ends into water-filled vases. Regularly refreshing the water helps prevent the growth of algae. When it comes to drying zinnias, double-flowered varieties are preferred as they tend to maintain their shape better than single forms. While all colors undergo slight changes during drying, cutting stems at their peak, removing leaves, and hanging them upside down in bundles away from direct sunlight facilitates the drying process effectively.

Photo: DeAnthony Price

Zinnia – University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (ufl.edu)

FPS-623/FP623: Zinnia spp. Zinnia (ufl.edu)

The Third Place

The Third Place

UF/IFAS Photo

Have you ever heard of “the third place?” It’s a concept introduced by sociologist Ray Oldenburg in his 1999 book, “The Great Good Place. ” In the book, Oldenburg writes about the need for a space beyond home (the first place) and work (the second place) where people can relax, socialize, and connect with their surroundings. Third places are known for being easy to access, inclusive to all, and free from rigid social structures. They provide a cozy and inviting atmosphere where people can relax and socialize, away from their homes and workplaces. This idea of third places has gained importance in conversations about city planning, building communities, and improving overall well-being. Cities are increasingly focused on creating spaces that encourage social connections and foster a sense of belonging among their inhabitants. “The third place” is an anchor of society and essential for our prosperity and for building strong communities.

UF/IFAS Photo

Now, let’s think about an unexpected third place – the garden. Gardens aren’t just about plants and flowers; they’re havens where social connections flourish amidst nature’s tranquility. Gardens offer a peaceful escape from the chaos of everyday life, fostering social interaction and community bonding. Whether you’re chatting with fellow gardeners or simply enjoying the beauty of your surroundings, gardens bring people together from all walks of life. They also provide a chance to connect with nature, promoting mindfulness and well-being. From gardening activities to community events, gardens cater to diverse interests and needs, making them versatile spaces for everyone to enjoy. Additionally, many gardens are maintained by volunteers or community groups, fostering a sense of ownership and pride among residents. At their core, gardens embody the essence of “the third place,” offering a blend of natural beauty, social interaction, and community engagement.

UF/IFAS Photo

Think about your garden for a moment. Remember the people you’ve met and the friends you’ve made while working together. Remember the joy you felt when you all got your hands dirty preparing the soil and planting seeds. Gardens are more than just pretty places; they’re important spots where people from different backgrounds can gather, connect, and feel better surrounded by nature. So, the next time you walk into a garden, think of it as more than just a place with plants and flowers. It’s a friendly place where community grows and friendships bloom at “the third place.”

Easy Spring Color with Petunias

Easy Spring Color with Petunias

Florida is a fun state to live in for many reasons.  You are never more than an hour or two away from a great beach, it never gets bitterly cold, and the fishing is phenomenal.  I could go on.  More than all that though, my favorite thing about living in Florida is the ability to have something blooming year-round, even in the cool months.  This year, the stars of the spring show in my backyard container garden have been new selections of an old favorite, the Petunia. 

Petunias, a close relative of Tobacco, originally hail from South America.  And while the original petunia species were not a valuable crop like Tobacco, enterprising European explorers realized the group had horticultural potential.  By the late 1800s, plant breeders had begun hybridizing wild petunia and the petunias gardeners now recognize took shape!  Fast forward to today and petunias are the most popular bedding plants in the US, with annual petunia sales topping $260 million (USDA’s Census of Horticultural Specialties).   More than 700 petunia cultivars have received plant patents, comprising all manners of sizes and flower colors.  This year, there is even a controversial genetically modified petunia called ‘Firefly’ hitting the market that displays bioluminescence – it literally glows in the dark! 

Petunia 'Jazzberry' growing in a container.

Petunia ‘Jazzberry’ growing in a container. Photo Credit: Daniel Leonard, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Calhoun County

In the past, petunias struggled in the Deep South, as they were often ravaged by various fungal pathogens induced by our too-warm weather.  These old-fashioned petunia cultivars, while pretty on store shelves, don’t perform as well in the heat as newer varieties bred for warmer, wetter conditions and that possess enhanced vigor and disease resistance.  When shopping for petunias in the Panhandle, avoid anonymous petunia varieties of questionable quality and look for modern named hybrids, for example the Supertunia Series, the SuperCal series, and the Wave series.  These improved hybrid petunias are resilient to pesky diseases like Botrytis Rot, flower heavily over a longer period, and tolerate temperature extremes better.  Within these series, individual cultivars vary in flower color, flower size, and overall plant size (ranging from mounding monsters growing 4’ in diameter to tiny dwarfs that barely span 18”).  I grew several varieties from each of these series this year and all performed wonderfully.  There’s a petunia variety for every garden!

Petunia 'Supertunia Royal Magenta'.

Petunia ‘Supertunia Royal Magenta’. Photo Credit: Daniel Leonard, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Calhoun County

Once you’ve picked a quality cultivar, petunias are relatively easy to grow!  In the Panhandle, petunias are grown as cool season annuals – planted in the fall (October-November) and grown through about May, finally playing out once the summer heat arrives.  Petunias prefer full sun and are at home in containers filled with a quality potting mix (container size will vary from medium to large depending on the growth habit and mature size of the petunia).  Petunias are not particularly drought tolerant and prefer regular water and fertilizer to look their best.  I water my containers each day during sunny and warm conditions, backing off to every other day or less during cooler, cloudy weather.  Because of their floriferous nature, petunias are also relatively heavy feeders and appreciate supplemental fertilizer.  I top dress petunia containers with Osmocote or similar slow-release fertilizer at planting and supplement with liquid fertilizer every week to ten days during the peak of the flowering season. 

Petunia 'Supertunia Mini Vista Scarlet'.

Petunia ‘Supertunia Mini Vista Scarlet’. Photo Credit: Danial Leonard, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Calhoun County

Though it’s past petunia planting time this season, be on the lookout for petunias to hit nursery shelves next fall.  Simply pick a good hybrid cultivar, plant in a container in full sun, water and fertilize regularly, and you’ll be rewarded with no-fuss, months-long color until the summer heat finally draws the curtain on the show!  For more information about petunias or any other horticultural topic, feel free to contact us at the UF/IFAS Calhoun County Extension office.  Happy gardening!