Winter is Tree Planting Time

Winter is Tree Planting Time

Red Maple
Red Maple structure IFAS Photo: Hassing, G.

January to February is the ideal time to plant trees.  During dormancy, all the energy in a tree is in the root system. They will establish very quickly.  In the spring, they will be ready to grow leaves. Planting and establishing trees is all about managing air and moisture in the soil. The exception is palms. They are not technically trees and should only be planted in the late spring and summer. Three of the most common causes of poor plant establishment or tree death are planting too deep, under watering, and over watering. If appropriate trees are planted at the right depth and they are irrigated properly, the trees will thrive for years to come. As simple as this sounds, problems often arise that lead to poor establishment or plant failure.

Following ten critical steps can ensure proper tree planting:

1. Look up for wires and lights. Make sure that the tree species’ mature size will not interfere with any utility lines.

2. Find the topmost root and treat root defects.   After removing the pot from the tree, remove all excess soil on the top of the root ball, until a root that is similar in diameter to the lower branches is located.  That is the topmost root.  Look for any roots that encircle the rootball, particularly close to the trunk.  Remove any roots that will strangle the trunk.  Cut all encircling roots at the point they turn to encourage root branching. Then, rough up or shave off all the roots on the perimeter of the rootball. If the tree is balled and burlapped, use a metal skewer to locate the depth of the topmost root.

Remove an inch or more for extremely rootbound trees.

3. Dig shallow and wide hole. Using the corrected rootball as a gauge, dig the hole slightly less shallow that the rootball.  Loosen the top six inches of soil around the entire rootball.

4. Carefully place tree in hole. Lower the tree into the hole slowly.

5. Position top root 1-2 inches above landscape soil. Make sure that the rootball is above the surrounding soil grade. If balled and burlapped, the nylon straps, metal pins, burlap on top of the rootball, and wire basket above the grade will need to be removed.

6. Straighten tree. Check the tree from two directions at 90% angles from each other.

7. Add and firm backfill soil. Tamp soil with fingers, not feet.  Do not stomp on the soil.  It will compact the soil and reduce the oxygen to the roots.

8. Add mulch.  Apply a 2–3-inch layer of natural mulch out to the perimeter of the trees branches, or beyond if possible.  However, there should be 1 inch or less mulch on top of the rootball.  Do not allow mulch to touch the trunk.

9. Stake and prune if needed.   If there is a strong steady wind, staking is necessary.  Otherwise, don’t stake. Make sure to do all structural pruning is done at planting time.  Establish a central leader and remove crossing branches. But do not remove the lower branches.  Just reduce the length.  The tree needs to bring food to the lower portion of the trunk to increase the diameter.

10. Water the tree. Don’t walk away until the tree has been watered.  Apply at least ½ gallon.  The tree will need to be watered twice a week for 20-30 weeks.  The larger the tree, the more water needed at each event.  However, if the water doesn’t perk in within a few minutes, reduce the amount being applied.  Overwatering can be as harmful as underwatering.

Planting Depth Problems Continue

Planting Depth Problems Continue

Several times each month I am diagnosing shrub and tree problems in Escambia County that are related to the same issue, improper planting.  Symptoms of this problem can be slow growth, leaf browning, and dieback.  Sometimes under stressful weather conditions like drought, plants completely die. 

The trunk was covered with several inches of soil. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
Shrub stems should never be below the soil level. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.

This is a difficult sight for homeowners who have invested time and money in a tree or shrub to enhance the landscape.  In some cases, the planting issues can be fixed but there are other times when a new plant will need to be installed. 

The good news for homeowners is that this is a completely preventable issue.  The University of Florida has excellent publications with photos about installing and caring for trees and shrubs.  My Panhandle colleagues and I have also shared numerous articles and videos on proper plant installation. 

Care must be taken during installation to set your plant at the correct depth.  Even if a landscaper or nursery is installing the plant for you, check their work.  Make sure the rootball is cut or sliced, it is not set below grade, that any straps holding the rootball are cut after it is set, and proper backfilling occurs without soil over the top of the rootball. 

You don’t want to find out later in the season or even year’s later that your plant declined just because of planting problems. 

An Easily Preventable Tree Planting Problem

An Easily Preventable Tree Planting Problem

Trees are a landscape asset for many homeowners. When a new tree is installed in our landscapes, we can’t wait for it to mature to provide shade or landscape interest.  The heartbreak for many homeowners comes when this important part of their landscape, begins to decline five to ten years after establishment.  We often consider a pest as the cause. The common culprit is often hidden below the mulch and soil and is easily preventable.

When larger specimen trees are installed in residential and commercial landscapes, they may be delivered with materials that help hold the rootball in place.   Strapping often runs over the rootball and when trees are young is several inches away from the trunk.  Installers or homeowners often do not cut the strapping during installation.

As this tree continue to grow, the rootball straps will interfere with normal trunk development. Cutting the straps takes only a few seconds at the time of planting. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF / IFAS Extension Escambia County

Over the years, tree trunks will grow in diameter and eventually reach the strapping.  Because the strapping is still firmly in place, it can cut into a growing tree, resulting in girdling.  Although many trees try to overcome the injured area by forming new wood over and around the girdling, this is a major stress that interferes with water and food movement in the plant.  What we see is a tree that may be slower to leaf out in the spring, a thinning canopy, and twig dieback.  These symptoms may be confused with another cause since the strapping is normally hidden from view.

The crape myrtle on the right has a very thin canopy. Investigation found a severe area of girdling from strapping left uncut at planting. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF / IFAS Extension Escambia County.

If you do have a tree that exhibits the above listed symptoms, it never hurts to look at the trunk and root flare just below the mulch and soil surface. If you find strapping still in place, cut it so that it is loose.  Depending on the severity of the problem, this may not save the tree but it is worth a try on your important investment.

An Important Tip When Installing Sod

An Important Tip When Installing Sod

It won’t be long before homeowners start thinking about sodding a new lawn or renovating areas of their existing turf. Although sodding when turf is dormant is acceptable, it is best to install sod that is green. One reason is that you can see if any sod pieces are infested with weeds such as bermudagrass . This perennial grass is very difficult to manage once it becomes established in centipede, St. Augustine, or zoysiagrass. Always remove turf pieces with bermudagrass during the installation process to prevent it from taking over a patch of your new lawn.

Bermudagrass growing in a piece of centipede sod. This piece should have been removed during installation to prevent the bermudagrass from taking over a patch of new centipede lawn. Photo by Beth Bolles, UFAS IFAS Escambia County Extension

If you have a piece of turf or a small area where common bermudagrass has emerged in your desirable grass, take care of the issue as soon as it is seen.  The best option is dig out the infested area making sure that you get the underground runners of the bermudagrass. Smooth out the bare soil and then install new sod pieces.  You may have to hand water these pieces as needed since the surrounding turf will already be established.