El Nino and This Winter Cold

El Nino and This Winter Cold

I am sure everyone has noticed how cold this winter has been.  We have had multiple days in the 20’s here in the Florida panhandle, even some snow flurries near Pensacola.  I was first told this may happen by a Sea Grant colleague of mine who works with oyster farmers.  Six months ago, he said the Farmer’s Almanac mentioned this would be a colder than normal winter.  A few weeks later a Master Naturalist mentioned that if it was heavy “mast season” (lots of acorns on the ground) it would be a colder winter.  We certainly had a heavy mast season in Pensacola this year, acorns were EVERYWHERE.  And here we are.  As I type this it is 27°F outside. 

Though we do not see snow as often as Colorado, the panhandle does see snow from time to time. Photo: Rick O’Connor

This past week I was at a Sea Grant meeting.  We were discussing this cold and another colleague mentioned that it was an El Nino year.  That’s right… it is an El Nino year, and many know that the weather does change when this occurs. 

I first heard of the El Nino shortly after receiving my bachelor’s degree.  I was teaching at Dauphin Island Sea Lab, and we had a video series on oceanography and one episode discussed it.  It explained that commercial fishermen in Peru were the first to notice it over a century ago. 

Off Peru’s coast is a large ocean current that originates in the Antarctic, flows north towards the equator passing the west coast of South America along the way.  The water is cold and full of life.  The Andes Mountains also run north-south along the coast.  Cold air at the top of the mountains runs down towards the coast and offshore.  As it blows offshore, it “pushes” the surface water of the ocean offshore as well.  This generates an upwelling current moving from the ocean floor towards the surface, bringing with it nutrients from the sediments below.  This nutrient reach seawater, mixing with the highly oxygenated cold water, and the sun at the surface creates the perfect environment for a plankton bloom, and a large bloom she is.  This large bloom attracts many plankton feeding organisms, including the commercially sought after anchovies and sardines.  This in turn supports the tuna fishery that comes to feed on the small fish.  These are some of the most productive fisheries on the planet.

Based on records kept by Peruvian fishermen, every three to seven years the surface waters would warm, and the fish would go away.  It was lean times for them.  When it did occur, it would do so around Christmas time.  So, the fishermen referred to it as the El Nino – “the child”. 

Based on the video episode we showed the students, others began to notice warming along the western Pacific and realized it was a not a local event, but a global one.  A high school friend of mine does sound for nature films and one of his first projects was to video the effects of the El Nino on the seal nesting season in California.  As in Peru, the cold waters become warm, the bloom slows and the fish go away, with less fish the mother seals have no food so, cannot produce milk for their newborns waiting on the beach.  As horrible as it sounds, and was to watch in Mike’s film, the mothers eventually abandon the newborns to starve. 

The video we showed at Sea Lab followed marine biologists studying corals along the western coast of Central America.  Here the waters were warming as well, warmer than normal, and the corals were stressed and dying.  With orbiting satellites now in place oceanographers were able to view this event from space and watch the entire thing unfold.  These images showed that during a normal year the western Pacific had cold water along California and much of South America.  The waters along western Central America were warm.  But during an El Nino year, warm water replaced the cold, particularly near Peru.  Scientists were able to connect several events to El Nino seasons.  Increases in wildfires in the western US, people were viewing the northern lights at lower latitudes, droughts occurred where it was usually wet, floods occurred where it was usually dry, and during one El Nino season the Atlanta Falcons made it to the NFL playoffs.  Weird things were happening. 

The obvious question for science is what drives these El Nino events? 

It is understood that our weather and climate are driven by ocean currents.  The “dry air” everyone talks about in the western US is driven by the cold California Current.  Likewise, the “humid air” of the southeastern US is driven by the warm Gulf Stream.  If you alter these currents, you alter the weather and climate of the region.  How do you alter ocean currents? 

Warm water in the eastern Pacific indicates an El Nino season. Graphic: NOAA

In the 1980s, when I was teaching at Dauphin Island Sea Lab, the video suggested a connection to sunspots on the surface of the sun.  At the time, they were not sure whether the increased sunspot activity triggered the El Nino, or whether there was something else going on, but there was a correlation between the two. 

One explanation comes from a textbook on oceanography I used when I was teaching marine science during the 1990s1.  It explains the event as such…

  • During “normal years” cold water from the Arctic and Antarctic runs along the western coasts of North and South America – both heading towards the equator.  Once there, the earth’ rotation moves this water westward towards Australia and Indonesia, warming the water as it goes. 
  • Apparently, the ocean currents cannot transport and disperse these warm waters effectively once they reach the western Pacific.  Thus, warm water begins to build there. 
  • This accumulating warm water seems to reverse the trade winds that normally flow from the eastern Pacific to the western along the equator.  This wind reversal occurs between November and April.  It mentions that in the late 1990s the cause of this wind reversal was not well understood.   
  • This wind reversal is often followed by the development of twin “super typhoons” (very strong typhoons) north and south of the equator. 
  • The extreme warm water in the western Pacific affects the weather in the region and this “heat mass” expands spatially.  During this expansion, the high-pressure system that sits over the eastern Pacific, bringing them the dry air we know California for, weakens.  At the same time, the normal low-pressure system over the western Pacific weakens and, in a sense, things are flipped.  This atmospheric change is called the Southern Oscillation, and the entire event was termed the El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO)
  • The power of the typhoons moves warm water from the western Pacific across the equator to the America’s.  The waters there warm and the historic El Nino occurs.  This movement takes several months. 
  • The El Nino will persist for one to two years.  When the warm water eventually releases its heat, the waters cool, and normal conditions return.  Until the next El Nino forms. 
  • In the 1990s they had already noticed an increase in the frequency of El Ninos (based on old fishermen’s logs).  They suggest climate change may be driving this. 
  • During El Nino years weather patterns change globally, as mentioned above.  This altering of the weather impacts all sorts of biological processes, as mentioned above. 
  • Often, the “return” of colder water along the western Pacific “overshoots” normal temperatures and the ocean becomes colder than normal.  This has been termed the La Nina.

I kind of imagine the whole process like a sloshing pool of water flowing towards one end of the pool, bouncing off and sloshing back to the other.  But instead of water “sloshing around” it is temperatures. 

But this was 1996.  Have scientists learned anymore about this event?

Not much has changed in their explanation, other than we are much better at predicting when they will happen and alert the public so that farmers, fishermen, fire fighters, etc.  are prepared.  They do seem to be increasing in frequency. 

For the 2024 El Nino, which NOAA began alerting the public in the summer of 2023, they are predicting it to continue for several seasons2.  There is no doubt that this winter is colder than normal.  The Florida panhandle also experienced a drought this past fall.  But… during most El Nino years, hurricanes are few in the Gulf of Mexico.  We will see, and watch, how the rest of the year rolls out.

Reference

1 Gross, M.G., Gross, E. 1996. Oceanography; A View of Earth. 7th edition.  Prentice Hall.  Upper Saddle River, New Jersey.  Pp 472.   

2 El Nino / Southern Oscillation (ENSO) Diagnostic Discussion. Jan 11, 2024. National Weather Service Climate Prediction Center.  National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association.

https://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/analysis_monitoring/enso_advisory/ensodisc.shtml.

Local Oysters Displaying “Green Gills” 

Local Oysters Displaying “Green Gills” 

And it’s a good thing! Green gill oysters are prized in the oyster community. In the Carolinas and Northern France, green gill oysters are a seasonal, cherished crop and a product of the saying “You are what you eat!” The phytoplankton, Haslea ostrearia, is the typical culprit, and their distribution is measured by direct observation from plankton tows or the occurrence of green-gilled oysters. The exact distribution is unknown, but there are reports of H. ostrearia throughout the Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian oceans. Haslea ostrearia is a beautiful pennate diatom that contains a water-soluble blue pigment known as marennine (More Here). Marennine’s production is stimulated by long photoperiods, blue light, and high light/low cloud weather. It can also be released into the water and into the flesh of organisms (typically oysters) that consume them.

Green-gill oyster on the farm
Fresh out of the water Grayson Bay Oyster with green gills! – Brandon Smith, Grayson Bay Oyster Company

Pensacola Bay, and surrounding areas, had a pretty mild fall in terms of rainfall, and the bays have turned a beautiful green-blue hue as the bays have risen in salinity and phytoplankton typically found in the Gulf of Mexico were able to survive. Brandon Smith, owner of Grayson Bay Oyster Company, was out working his farm January 7th, 2024, and sent a text to me saying “take note of the green gills,” and I was very shocked and happy to see actual, green-gilled oysters in our local waterways. He graciously harvested a few dozen to examine (and let me taste test), and I was able to confirm the presence of green gills in the oysters. After further research on H. ostrearia, it seems as though the pennate diatom made it into our bays and is the culprit of this wonderful surprise.

Oyster displaying green-gills
A local Grayson Bay Oyster displaying green-gills – Thomas Derbes II

When I shucked my graciously donated oysters from Grayson Bay, I was reminiscing on the first time I came across green-gilled oysters. The first batch of green gill oysters I ate came from an oyster farm in North Carolina called N. Sea Oyster Company. Their green-gilled beauties “Divine Pines” were requested by a wedding I was catering for, and I was able to slurp down one to get talking and tasting notes. The seasonal Divine Pines offered a sweet yet salty taste and became one of my favorite out-of-area oysters to serve at events and to personally consume. While beautiful, the green-gilled oysters are usually only found in the fall/winter months. These green-gilled Grayson Bays were very comparable and offered a salty yet very sweet and minerally finish. The H. ostrearia is responsible for not only the green gills, but the sweet tasting notes, and I highly recommend adding any green-gilled oyster to your fall/winter raw bar selection.   

References:

Turpin, Vincent & Robert, J-M & Philippe, Goulletquer & Massé, Guillaume & Rosa, Philippe. (2008). Oyster greening by outdoor mass culture of the diatom Haslea ostrearia Simonsen in enriched seawater. Aquaculture Research. 32. 801 – 809.

2023 Pensacola Bay Snake Watch Annual Report

2023 Pensacola Bay Snake Watch Annual Report

I began this project in 2022 wanting to know which of the 40 species of snakes known to inhabit the Pensacola Bay area were encountered by people.  I also wanted to know where they were encountering them and what time of year.  This information would be used in my Living with Snakes program and provide better information than field guides and publications that covered a broader area.  The 40 local species were divided into six categories: small snakes (<12”), mid-sized snakes (12-24”), large snakes (> 24”), water snakes, venomous snakes, and non-native snakes. 

The red rat snake, or corn snake. Photo: Molly O’Connor

Which snakes did people encounter?

In 2023 there were 215 snake encounters between Jan 1 and Dec 10.  This is a 136% increase over 2022.  This is probably not because of more snakes but rather more residents participating in the project. 

Of the 40 species possible, 24 (60%) were encountered.  This is a 13% increase over 2022.  Again, I feel this is due more to increasing participation. 

The most frequently encountered species were:

  1. Cottonmouth – 49 records (23%)
  2. Southern Black Racer – 35 records (16%)
  3. Banded Water Snake – 26 records (12%)
  4. Eastern Garter Snake – 17 records (8%)
  5. Eastern Coachwhip – 11 records (5%)

The Southern Black Racer was the most frequently encountered snake in 2022 (23%), followed by the cottonmouth (16%).  As you can see, the frequency of encounters remained the same this year, but the species flipped.  The Eastern Ribbon Snake, which was third at (14%) in 2022 did not make the top five this year. 

The rarest snakes – those encountered only once or not at all – included:

Encountered once:                                     

Rough Green Snake                                                                 

Eastern Kingsnake                                      

Eastern Coral Snake

NOT Encountered at all:

Smooth Earth Snake

Marsh Brown Snake

Southern Hognose Snake

Mole Kingsnake

Scarlet Kingsnake

Eastern Indigo Snake

Black Swamp Snake

Glossy Crayfish Snake

Queen Snake

Midland Watersnake

Yellow Bellied Water Snake

Diamondback Water Snake

Western Green Water Snake

Western/Eastern Mud Snake

Rainbow Snake

Of the four species only encountered once, each is considered quite rare for encounters.  The Eastern Kingsnake was once common but has declined over the years.  The Eastern Coral Snake is quite common, but its behavior and activity make it rare to encounter.  Some snake experts have never seen one in the wild. 

Of the 16 species not encountered at all, three are small snakes whose size and habits make them difficult to detect.  Two are mid-sized but their habits also make them hard to detect.  Nine are water snakes who live in swampy environments along our rivers.  You would have to be out there to encounter them, and few people are.  Two species, the Southern Hognose and the Eastern Indigo Snake, are state and federal listed and are extremely rare.  

The gray rat snake, also known as the oak snake. Photo: Nick Baldwin

Where did people encounter these snakes?

I divided the bay area into four regions: North Escambia, South Escambia, North Santa Rosa, and South Santa Rosa. 

North Escambia – 13 species (54% of the total 24 species found this year).

South Escambia – 16 species (67% of the total).

North Santa Rosa – 17 species (71% of the total).

South Santa Rosa – 11 species (46% of the total). 

There is not much difference between these.  In Escambia County more encounters occurred in the southern portion of the county.  For Santa Rosa County it was the opposite.  Whether this is because there are more snakes in these locations, or more participants in the project cannot be said.  We will pay more attention to this next year.    

Species that were found in ALL four regions included:

Eastern Garter Snake

Gray Rat Snake

Corn Snake

Southern Black Racer

Coachwhip

Cottonmouth

Species only found on one of the four regions included:

Eastern Kingsnake

Florida Pine Snake

Brahminy Blind Snake

Rough Earth Snake

Pinewoods Snake

Eastern Coral Snake

What time of year were these snakes encountered?

Winter – 57 encounters; 13 species

Spring – 80 encounters; 20 species

Summer – 52 encounters; 18 species

Fall – 17 encounters; 10 species

There was an obvious decline in encounters in the fall.  Many species are beginning to settle in for the winter this time of year, but many others breed, and thus should be moving (at least the males).  I know some volunteers ceased looking, but others I know who search weekly, or daily, did not encounter as many snakes. 

Only one species was encountered every month of the year.  This was the cottonmouth

The Eastern Garter Snake was seen every month except June and October; it seems to be active year-round. 

The Southern Black Racer was missing in January, November, and December – suggesting a dislike for the cold. 

NOTE: many of these hibernating snakes will emerge on warmer sunny days during winter and can be encountered. 

SPRING was the time of year with the highest encounter rate and species encountered.  This would make sense in two parts; (1) they are emerging seeking food after non-feeding during winter, (2) they are emerging looking for mates because it is breeding season for many.  Five species were only encountered in the early part of the year.  Two species were only found in winter and one species was only found in the spring. 

Eastern diamondback rattlesnake crawling near Ft. Pickens Campground. Photo: Shelley Johnson

What about the venomous snakes?

As expected, most are concerned more about the encounters with venomous snakes.  There are six venomous species listed in the state of Florida, four inhabit the Pensacola Bay area.  All four were encountered in 2023. 

  1. Cottonmouth – was encountered in all regions, each month of the year, it was the most commonly encountered snake in our area this year.
  2. Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake – was encountered seven times, only during the spring and summer, and in three of the four regions in our area.  This snake is pretty common but not commonly encountered where people most often reside and play.  Though encounters do occur in residential neighborhoods, they are rare. 
  3. Dusky Pygmy Rattlesnake – was encountered six times, during spring, summer, and fall, and two of the four regions in the bay area. 
  4. Eastern Coral Snake – was encountered once, during the spring, and in only one of the four regions in the bay area.  Again, this snake is actually quite common, but its behavior makes it difficult to encounter.  So, encounters with this species are rare. 

Summary

In 2023 60% of the known species of snakes that inhabit the Pensacola Bay area were encountered by residents at some time during the year.  Most encounters occurred in the spring and summer and encounters occurred throughout the entire region.  The cottonmouth was the most frequently encountered species this year but rare species, such as the Eastern hognose, Eastern kingsnake, and the Florida pine snake were seen – and that is pretty exciting.  The snake diversity in the Pensacola Bay area seems good.  There is concern that a non-native parasite decreasing the populations of some species in central and south Florida may make its way to the panhandle.  We are participating in a project entitled Snake Lungworm Alliance Monitoring (SLAM) that collects deceased snakes for examination by researchers.  If you find a deceased snake in good enough condition to be dissected, place it in a plastic Ziplock bag, label with the date, location (GPS preferred), and your contact information.  You can then bring it to the Escambia County Extension office or freeze it and call me – (850-475-5230) or email roc1@ufl.edu and we will arrange pick up. 

We plan to continue the Snake Watch Project in 2024 and encourage all who see snakes to contact me at the above email address.  We will also be offering the Living with Snakes presentation.  If your community group is interested in this talk, contact me. 

Cottonmouths of Our Barrier Islands

Cottonmouths of Our Barrier Islands

I am going to end 2023 with an article on a project I hope to conduct in 2024.  It will focus on insular cottonmouths and will focus on the western panhandle, though those in the eastern panhandle might be interested and could help.  For obvious reasons, conducting this project as a citizen science one is not the best idea.  Cottonmouths are venomous snakes and can be dangerous, but there could be opportunities where citizens could be of help (a road killed snake for example). 

The cottonmouth is one of the more commonly encountered snakes in the western panhandle. Photo: Bob Jackson

The story is quite interesting.  Most books and articles on cottonmouths indicate they inhabit freshwater habitats where water flow is slower.  Though found in the back waters of rivers, they are not as common within the rivers themselves.  Golf courses, ponds, lakes, and reservoirs are other places they frequent.  There are records of them on coastal barrier islands and in the upper Florida Keys.  Swimming across saltwater is not surprising but existing on a xeric, sandy barrier island would not fit the typical habitat of this snake.  Most of the accounts on barrier islands are in the Big Bend region and many know that there are freshwater habitats on some of these islands.  If a cottonmouth could reach the island, there could be a suitable habitat for them.  But you could argue that these habitats are not large enough to support a large population.  The carry capacity of a population is determined by the amount of space and resources available.  Cottonmouths are opportunistic feeders – so, finding food would not be a big issue – but with limited acreage of needed freshwater the carrying capacity would be lower, and populations of cottonmouths lower as well.  Then there is Seahorse Key.  

Seahorse Key Photo: Courtesy of flicker

Seahorse Key is 3 miles southwest of Cedar Key and can only be accessed by boat.  It is said that the density of cottonmouths is higher there than anywhere in the state.  Dr. Coleman Sheehy (University of Florida) stated they typically encountered 30 snakes while conducting beach walk surveys and they estimated about 600 cottonmouths on the island.  The fact that cottonmouths were there was not surprising, but the high density – in a habitat not really suitable for such – was. 

There is another story on addressing that issue you can read at  – https://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/nat/2015/08/07/the-mystery-on-seahorse-key/.    

Depending on which source you use, there are up to three subspecies of cottonmouths found in the U.S.  The Florida cottonmouth (Agkistrodon piscivorous conanti) is the one found on Seahorse Key, the rest of peninsula Florida, and in the panhandle as far west as Gulf County.  The eastern cottonmouth (A.p. piscivorous) is found from Bay County west to Escambia County on the Florida/Alabama line, and north into the coastal plains of Alabama and Georgia.  The western cottonmouth (A.p. leucostoma) is found from the Alabama/Florida line west to Texas and north to Arkansas.  Dr. Harvey Lillywhite (University of Florida), and others, were curious as to whether the Florida cottonmouth was adapting to saltwater.  An interesting question and, again, how these snakes are surviving and thriving on Seahorse Key is a part of understanding this story.  In recent years there has been a push to declare the Florida cottonmouth its own species – Agkistrodon conanti.  The Florida Museum of Natural History’s history article1 on cottonmouths list as such.  Dr. Steve Johnson’s article2 lists the snake as Agkistrodon piscivorous and leaves it there, not dividing into subspecies.  Many current researchers agree with the identification of A. conanti for the Florida cottonmouth – the one found on the islands of the Big Bend – and the one of interest in whether it is adapting to saltwater environments.  That brings me back to the project we are planning to begin in 2024 in the western panhandle. 

Cottonmouths definitely exist on the barrier islands in Escambia County.  We have two islands – Santa Rosa Island and Perdido Key.  There are freshwater sources on both islands and suitable habitat for cottonmouths.  The swim from the mainland to reach these islands is much shorter than for those at Seahorse Key.  At Perdido Key a swim of 600 feet would allow a snake to reach the island – easy.  The swim from Perdido Key to Santa Rosa Island is less than a mile (about 4000 feet) but the currents in Pensacola Pass are strong and the likelihood of a cottonmouth accessing Santa Rosa Island this way would be low.  However, there are many locations along Santa Rosa Island where the swim would be no more than a mile from the mainland and some, in Okaloosa County, the trip could be made in about 800 feet.  Island access is easy. 

As the Escambia County Extension Agent, I handle the snake calls that come to our office – and there are a lot of them.  In recent years there has been concern from some Perdido Key residents with the number of cottonmouths they are encountering.  One of their questions was whether this was an unusually high encounter rate – Seahorse Key all over.  Conducting surveys in their neighborhood in 2019 I encountered cottonmouths 70% of the time – all of them were juveniles or subadults.  I recommended some landscape changes to deter the snakes from their yards and in 2020 the encounter rate dropped to about 40% of the surveys.  However, it did not rain as much in 2020 and this could have affected the snakes as much, if not more, than the landscaping changes.  The freshwater ponds in the neighborhood used by the snakes were small and ephemeral – they did not have water unless rainfall was present.  So, we did another survey in 2021, it rained more, and encounters increased to 50% of the surveys.  The landscaping may have helped some.  In 2021 I also conducted surveys in the nearby state park and found no significant difference in snake encounters (50%) but the time of day for encounters was different and I did find adult snakes in the state park. 

Note here… I get very few calls on cottonmouths from Santa Rosa Island.  Rather their calls are about eastern diamondback rattlesnakes, which are not encountered as much on Perdido Key.  The question we have on the table now is whether the cottonmouths found on Perdido Key are the Florida cottonmouth (A. conanti) – the one some believe may be adapting to saltwater conditions.  According to Whit Gibbons and Mike Dorcas’s Snakes of the Southeast3 Escambia County Florida is the border between the eastern and the western cottonmouth.  This same guide suggests that the Florida cottonmouth does not exist here. 

So here is the project… which species/subspecies of cottonmouths exist on our barrier islands in the western Florida panhandle? 

How do you tell them apart?

The difference between the Florida cottonmouth and the eastern/western are very minor.  This makes identification in the field hard and dangerous.  The Florida cottonmouth will have two distinct stripes running vertically across the front of its snout.  The eastern/western cottonmouth will not have these.  To determine whether these stripes exist requires getting much closer to the snake than is recommended.  THIS IS A DANGEROUS SNAKE AND CLOSE ENCOUNTERS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED.  However, a road killed snake can be examined using a stick at least 12” long.  NOTE: SNAKES, EVEN RECENTLY KILLED, HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO BITE.  DO NOT HANDLE A DEAD SNAKE UNLESS YOU ARE SURE IT IS DEAD.  You may have a camera that can get a good photo of the snout FROM A SAFE DISTANCE (cottonmouths like to rest with their head tilted upwards at a good angle for such a photo). 

You can see the light vertical bands on the snout of this snake indicating it is the Florida cottonmouth. Photo: University of Florida.
Notice the light bands across the snout of this Florida Cottonmouth. Photo: Kristen Grace.
This cottonmouth has a uniform coloration across the snout – indicating that it is an eastern cottonmouth. Photo: Ricky Stackhouse.

We are planning a program on this project in early April for Escambia and Santa Rosa Counties.  If you are in Okaloosa, Walton, or Bay counties and would like the program presented there – let me know. 

Rick O’Connor – roc1@ufl.edu

References

1 Florida Museum of Natural History

https://www.floridamuseum.ufl.edu/florida-snake-id/snake/florida-cottonmouth/.

2 Florida Snakes. Cottonmouth or Water Moccasin.  University of Florida Department of Wildlife Ecology and Conservation.  UF Wildlife – Johnson Lab. https://ufwildlife.ifas.ufl.edu/snakes/cottonmouth.shtml.

3 Gibbons, W., Dorcas, M. 2005. Snakes of the Southeast.

The Last of Fall Foliage is Still Available in the Panhandle

The Last of Fall Foliage is Still Available in the Panhandle

Fall color and leaf peeping is usually the last thing people think of on the Gulf Coast. Indeed, most people bemoan our lack of fall foliage and do not realize that if you know where to look beautiful fall vistas can still be seen. When the rest of the country has dropped leaves and past peak foliage our local scene is getting to the best show. Fall is a slow process here on the Gulf Coast and the area is the last to see the peak fall color. Here it is more like early winter color. The several weeks around Thanksgiving are some of the best times to see what our local deciduous hardwood trees have to offer. In a region dominated by pines and evergreen hardwoods the shows are few and far between. While our local forests don’t put on the spectacular shows that the Appalachian and Northeast hardwood forests do, it doesn’t mean we don’t have anything to offer. If you are looking for a local show you will need to know where to find areas with trees that turn the orange, gold, and red you hope to see.

Autumn leaves. Photo Courtesy UF-IFAS Photo Database

Trees with leaves that change colors are called deciduous, meaning that they drop their leaves each year during winter dormancy. Only these deciduous trees put on a show in the fall and early winter, and not all of these are hardwoods. While rare some conifers are deciduous as well, and our local bald and pond cypress are conifers that are deciduous. Conversely, we have evergreen and semi-evergreen hardwoods here like live oak, southern magnolia, and laurel oak. Evergreen versus deciduous is actually a tree’s way of adapting to climate characteristics. Evergreen trees photosynthesize year-round while deciduous trees store energy and shut down through the winter by shedding their leaves. It is this shutdown of photosynthesis and chlorophyll in the leaves that produces fall color and leaf drop. Chlorophyll is the compound in leaves responsible for photosynthesis and for the green color we see most of the year. When deciduous trees go dormant the chlorophyll is pulled out of the leaves as the trees prepare for winter dormancy. But Chlorophyll is not the only compound in leaves, and the other compounds that are left behind produce the color we see each fall. Carotenoids, particularly beta-carotene, produce the oranges; while anthocyanins produce reds and flavonoids produce yellows. The amount of these compounds in a leaf result in the colors we see. The change is triggered by environmental signals, particularly temperature. Temperatures need to dip at least into the 50 degree range regularly before changes occur. Given our variable weather pattern here on the gulf coast that means it is hard to predict the exact date when leave color will start and peak. It also means trees change slowly and often do not produce the drastic change seen to the north. The good side of this is we get to enjoy fall color much longer into early winter. This is the last region of the country where you can observe the annual leaf color show.

To enjoy leaf color, you need to know where to look here and what to look for. The best areas are river basins and wetlands as those areas have the largest concentration of deciduous trees. Swamps of cypress and mixed hardwoods can put on quite a show.  Bottomland hardwood forests in river floodplains usually have the best show and turn early. Uplands are not out of the question either, while they typically are dominated by mostly pines in our region scattered oak, sweet gum, and hickory give splashes of color. On sandhills turkey oak can turn a deep red and usually is one of the later trees to turn. As the upland grasses go dormant for the winter, they can also provide a splash of landscape color. If you know where to look some of our parks and natural areas across the Panhandle provide excellent spots to see leaf color.

The Apalachicola Basin provides some of the best scenic vistas available where foliage color turns. The bottomland and mixed pine hardwood forests of the bluff lands make beautiful areas to explore in fall and early winter. Torreya State Park and Three Rivers State Park are both excellent areas to explore when looking for leaf color in the Eastern Panhandle. In the Central Panhandle Falling Waters and Florida Caverns State Parks are great areas to visit. In the Western Panhandle Blackwater State Park, Blackwater State Forest, and parks along the Choctawhatchee River provide good leaf color. A scenic drive along rural highways is a great way to see color as well, with areas close to the state line being particularly good for a nice early winter drive. Get out and see the last of fall colors while they last, in a week or so they will be gone until next year.