Ginger Lily Adds Fragrance and a Tropical Flair to North Florida Gardens

Ginger Lily Adds Fragrance and a Tropical Flair to North Florida Gardens

‘Disney’ scarlet ginger lily produces beautiful orange flower clusters atop stems growing up to 7 feet in height

If you’re looking for colorful flowers with superpowered fragrance, look no farther than ginger lily (Hedychium sp.). This group of plants packs a punch with big, bright flowers, intoxicating fragrance and bold tropical foliage, all in a robust herbaceous perennial that is perfectly hardy in north Florida.

Ginger lilies are tropical and subtropical plants in the Zingiberaceae (Ginger) Family. They produce fragrant, colorful, complex flowers and often other plant parts also are aromatic. Ginger lily flowers appear in racemes or spikes at the tops of cane-like stems 4 to 6 feet or more in height. Flowering summer until frost, the clumps of upright stems grow from thick rhizomes that creep underground just below the soil surface. Native to Asia and related to the spice, true ginger (Zingiber officinale), ginger lilies will add color, fragrance and a tropical vibe to your home garden.

Ginger lilies grow best in full to part sun in rich, moist, well-drained soil. New stems emerge in late spring and quickly grow into upright stems with long, bold-textured leaves held horizontally or angled upright. The cane-like stems are topped with clusters of large, bright colored flowers starting in late spring to mid summer, often continuing through fall. Frosts or freezes will kill the above-ground stems, but rhizomes easily overwinter temperatures as low as 0°F (making them hardy into USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 7b) and produce new growth in late spring once warm weather resumes. Few pests or diseases affect ginger lily, and the only regular maintenance is to cut and remove the dead stems in late winter before new growth emerges.

Butterfly ginger is the type most widely grown and frequently shared as a pass-along plant. Butterfly ginger (Hedychium coronarium) is grown for its large fragrant white flowers. It grows 4 to 5 feet high and begins flowering in mid to late summer, continuing through fall. With a heavy sweet fragrance, a flowering clump of butterfly ginger smells heavenly in the garden and, as a cut flower, will easily perfume a large room! Butterfly ginger is not picky about growing conditions but prefers moist, good garden soil. This is the ginger flower most often used to make Hawaiian leis!

There are dozens of species and cultivars of Hedychium. Some of the ginger lilies that are often found in local nurseries or Master Gardener plant sales are listed below.

‘Dr. Moy’ variegated ginger lily (Hedychium ‘Dr. Moy’) is distinguished by white paint-like splashes on its leaves and fragrant, peachy-orange flowers. ‘Dr. Moy’ produces its first round of flowers from mid-July to August and a second crop in late-September to October.

‘Daniel Weeks’ ginger lily (Hedychium ‘Daniel Weeks’) is a perennial tropical ginger hybrid from Florida’s Russell Adams with hardiness to Zone 7. Growing to 6 to 7 feet high, it produces large dark throated golden-yellow inflorescences with the bonus of delightful evening fragrance. This vigorous clumping hardy ginger lily is the longest blooming, starting in early to mid summer and continuing to frost. It is considered by many as one of the best of all ginger lilies.

‘Disney’ scarlet ginger lily (Hedychium coccineum ‘Disney’) produces large, bright orange flower clusters on tall stems up to 7 feet in height. Foliage is very glossy with a reddish hue, and the overall effect of the clump of stems is very upright. Typically, all stems flower at the same time followed by a resting period before flowering again.

‘Pink Sparks’ ginger lily (Hedychium ‘Pink Sparks’) is a compact variety only growing 4 to 5 feet high. Terminal inflorescences are made up of many small bright pink flowers with very long stamens.

Ginger lily may be propagated by digging and dividing clumps or by cutting off sections of rhizome (making sure each section has at least one bud) and placing these in new locations for sprouting and growth. It’s best to divide or propagate plants before late summer so divisions have enough time to develop a new root system and/or stems before the cooler weather of fall slows growth.

References

Carey, Dennis and Tony Avent. 2010. Hedychium – A Hardy Ginger Plant for the Garden. Plant Delights Nursery, Inc., Raleigh, NC 27603. https://www.plantdelights.com/blogs/articles/ginger-plant-lily-variegated-hedychium-lilies. Accessed 9 June 2021.

Gilman, Edward F. 2015. Hedychium coronarium Butterfly Ginger, FPS-240. Environmental Horticulture Department, UF/IFAS Extension, Gainesville, FL 32611. Original publication date October 1999. Reviewed February 2014. FPS-240/FP240: Hedychium coronarium Butterfly Ginger (ufl.edu). Accessed 9 June 2021.

It’s Hot, Consider Planting a Shade Tree

It’s Hot, Consider Planting a Shade Tree

Spending time outdoors during the Florida summer is not for the faint of heart. It’s hot! And it’s humid! Just moving around outside for a moment in the early morning causes you to break out in a sweat. Most evenings, even after the sun is low in the western sky, but there’s still enough light to enjoy the outdoors, the sweat doesn’t stop. A Floridian’s only hope is that nearby, there is a large shade tree to take cover under. In north Florida, there’s nothing more inviting than a huge live oak draped in Spanish moss for a drink of ice water and a slight breeze. If you don’t have such a spot, start thinking about planting a shade tree this winter!

A large live oak is great for shade! Credit: Dawn Reed.

In north Florida, we have many options to choose from, as we live in an area of the United States with some of the highest native tree abundance. Making sure you get the right tree for the right place is important so make a plan. Where could this tree go? Is there plenty of space between the tree and any structures? You’ll want to give a nice shade tree plenty of room – 20’ to 60’ away from structures and/or from other large trees – to grow into a great specimen. Be sure not to place a large tree under powerlines or on top of underground infrastructure. You can “Call 811 before you dig” to help figure that out. If space is limited, you may want to consider trees that have been shown to be more resilient to tropical weather. Also try and place the tree in a way that provides added shade to your home. Deciduous trees planted along your home’s southeast to southwest exposure provide shade during the summer and let in the sun during the cooler winter. However, be careful that the tree doesn’t grow to block the sun from your vegetable garden!

A density gradient map of native trees in the US. Notice where the highest number occur. Credit: Biota of North America Program.

Here are some ideas for shade trees, those trees that are tall (mature height greater than 50’) and cast a lot of shade (mature spread greater than 30’). All of these are native trees, which have the added benefit of providing food and shelter to native wildlife.

  • Red maple (Acer rubrum)
  • Pignut hickory (Carya glabra)
  • Green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica)
  • Tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera)
  • Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)
  • Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)
  • Shumard oak (Quercus shumardii)
  • Live oak (Quercus virginiana)
  • American elm (Ulmus americana)

It’s best to plant during the winter and follow good planting practices.

Even with this young sycamore, you'll be made in the shade

Even with this young sycamore, you’ll be made in the shade. Credit: UF/IFAS.

While it may take a while for you to relax under the shade of your tree, they can surprise you in their growth and, as they say, there’s no time like the present. If you have questions on selecting or planting shade trees, contact your local UF/IFAS Extension office.

Springtailed Invaders

Springtailed Invaders

A month or so ago I was leaving for work and I noticed a strange substance near the entrance to the house.  The substance was blue and my first thought was crushed chalk from my kids writing on the sidewalk.  Upon closer investigation I realized the substance was moving!  It was now clear to me that the substance wasn’t chalk, but a congregation of insects.  Naturally, I took pictures and collected a sample to bring into the county extension office…where I work.  I looked at the insects under the microscope, but I wasn’t able to determine the species.  So I sent some samples off to the University of Florida/IFAS Entomology and Nematology Department and the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services.

A swarm of Desoria flora

A swarm of Desoria flora on damp, outdoor steps. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County

The experts identified the specimens as Desoria flora, a species of springtail insects endemic to Florida and originally described in Alachua County in 1980.  Both entomologists thought it was unique the springtails were swarming.  Springtails live in leaf litter and upper layers of soils.  They are sometimes found in the potting mix of indoor and outdoor plants.  Clients bring springtail specimens in to the office for identification from time to time.  However, this was the first time I had seen them in a congregation.

A linear springtail

A linear springtail. Photo Credit: University of Florida/IFAS

If you find interesting insects, plants, or fungi and want them identified, please bring them into your local Extension Office.  We’d be happy to help you identify the specimens.  But sometimes we have to mail things off to a specialist.

 

The “Dirt” on Soil

The “Dirt” on Soil

Potting soil, potting mix, garden soil, topsoil.  The bags are all sitting side-by-side on the shelf at the garden center.  Your challenge is to figure out which one you need for your project.  What’s the difference?  To begin with, none of them are dirt.  The Soil Science Society of America defines dirt as “displaced soil”, the dead nuisance material left on your hands after working with soil.  Soil is a blend of sand, silt, clay and organic matter.  It is alive with nutrient and water holding components.  But, all soil is not equal.

Soil contains decayed organic remains.  It may be composted leaf tissue and/or microorganisms.  The terms potting soil and potting mix are often used interchangeably, but there is a significant difference.  Potting soil contains compost or the flora responsible for the breakdown process.  Potting mix is soil-less.  It is a blend of sphagnum moss, coir, bark, perlite and/or vermiculite.  While these are natural occurring materials, they are in their original state.  No decomposition has occurred.  In the absence of compost, the resulting potting mix is sterile and free of fungus spores and insect eggs.  Potting mixes are excellent choices for container growing, especially for house plants.  The sphagnum moss, coir and bark hold and release water and nutrients, while the vermiculite or perlite keep the mix loose and well-drained.  Some blended products add microbes, which then requires the word soil be added to the packaging.  These are still suitable for potted plants.

But, if the potting soil is made from mostly compost, the potential of having poor drainage and fungus gnat problems increases substantially.  The only containers these type of potting soils should be used in are raised gardens.  Depending on the compost source, these soils can sour, grow mushrooms or become extremely hard.

 

Garden soil is a blend of soil and soilless ingredients.  It can be used in very large containers (24” or greater) or added to native soils to enrich planting areas.

 

Then there is topsoil.  It varies widely in composition and quality.  Use it to fill holes in the yard, build berms or mix it will compost to increase water retention in dry garden areas.

So, when standing in the store comparing prices, don’t let price dictate your purchase.  To keep your containerized plants doing well, do some bag reading.  Choose the product that has aged forest products, sphagnum moss and perlite.  Use the soils made from bio-solids and composted materials to improve the sand in the yard.  When you’re done, go wash the dirt off your hands.

Video: Growing and Saving Blackberries

Video: Growing and Saving Blackberries

Blackberries are one of the easiest fruiting crops to grow in the North Florida garden. Fruits mature during the month of May and early June. If you don’t plan to eat your blackberries fresh, learn some quick tips from UF IFAS Escambia County Extension for saving blackberries for a special treat later in the season.