by Larry Williams | Dec 18, 2025
Pine straw being used as mulch in plant bed. Credit: Larry Williams
There is a difference between mulching and amending the soil. Mulching involves placing material such as pine straw, leaves or pine bark on top of the soil. Amending the soil is the incorporation of the material into the soil (in the root area).
Soil amendments and mulch can be organic or inorganic. Most soil amendments are organic (coming from a living organism) such as pine straw or peat moss. A few inorganic (non-living) soil amendments include sand, perlite and vermiculite.
Many common organic soil amendments don’t last long in our soils and climate. Materials such as peat moss decompose rapidly in our sandy soils, under our warm, moist conditions. Microorganisms break the “stuff” down rapidly, once it is in the soil. As a result, the benefits from the additional organic matter are quickly lost unless additional organic matter is repeatedly incorporated within the soil.
Slower decomposing materials such as sawdust or other wood products will last longer. But microorganisms that help decompose wood within the soil use or tie up some of the available plant nutrients such as nitrogen during the decomposition process. So additional nitrogen may need to be added to meet the nitrogen requirements for plants that are growing in the amended soil when wood is used as a soil amendment. Additional nitrogen may be needed until the wood is thoroughly decomposed. This may take months to years based on how well rotted the wood was when incorporated. It’s best to use well-rotted sawdust as a soil amendment. Nitrogen deficiency results in a general light green to yellow color in plant leaves.
Mushroom compost contains a high degree of lime. As a result, it will raise the soil pH, making the soil more alkaline or less acidic. It has its place as a soil amendment but should not be used where “acid loving” plants are to be grown. This would include plants such as centipedegrass, blueberries, azaleas, camellias and gardenias. It’s best to know the soil pH before using mushroom compost to avoid ending up with soil that’s too alkaline for the plants you intend to grow.
There needs to be a reason to amend the soil. Is the soil too heavy and poorly drained such as is the case with clay or muck type soils? Then, you may need to add something such as perlite or sand to “open” the soil to improve drainage. Is the soil sandy with a low pH? Then, you may want to use mushroom compost.
Amending soil for no good reason can be a time consuming and costly mistake.
by Donna Arnold | Dec 11, 2025
Winter Bliss and Climate Challenges in North Florida Gardens
Gardening is far more than a pastime, it’s an endeavor that demands patience, skill, and dedication. Every plant requires careful attention to thrive, and every gardener knows the challenge of protecting their landscape against nature’s shifting moods.
In North Florida, winters from December through February are typically mild, offering residents the chance to cultivate cool-season vegetables, hardy ornamentals, and lush greenery that brighten homes even in the colder months. These gardens are more than decoration; they are living investments in beauty, wellness, and community pride.
Yet, the increasing instability of seasonal patterns has thrown gardeners off balance. Sudden frosts, unexpected heat spikes, and shifting rhythms test both resilience and creativity. What once felt like a predictable cycle now requires constant vigilance, as climate change reshapes the very environment in which these gardens grow. For North Florida residents, tending a garden is not just about nurturing plants, it’s about nurturing joy, identity, and a connection to place, even as the climate itself becomes more uncertain.
Photo credit: Donna Arnold,FAMU Extension.
The Growing Challenge of Climate Change
In recent years, gardeners have faced out-of-season frosts that damage cold-sensitive plants such as citrus, hibiscus, and tropical ornamentals. Unlike commercial growers with greenhouses, most homeowners lack protective infrastructure, leaving their landscapes exposed. The financial loss of damaged plantings can be significant, but the emotional toll of watching cherished gardens succumb to sudden freezes is equally profound.
Climate change intensifies these challenges. Stronger cold fronts and occasional winter heat spikes disrupt plant growth, weakening resilience and reducing vitality. Homeowners often resort to improvised measures, blankets, plastic sheeting, or makeshift covers, that provide only temporary protection. Without specialized forecasting tools, residents rely on local news or apps, which may overlook microclimate variations across neighborhoods.
Weather vs. Climate: Why It Matters
It’s important to distinguish between weather and climate.
- Weather refers to the day-to-day conditions, temperature, rainfall, humidity, and more, that we experience locally.
- Climate is the long-term average of these conditions, measured over seasons, years, or even decades, across regions or globally.
Florida, for example, has a wet season and a dry season, but rainfall within those periods can vary greatly from day to day. While climate patterns help us anticipate seasonal trends, the unpredictability of weather events, like sudden frosts or heat spikes, creates challenges for gardeners. Understanding this distinction helps residents prepare for short-term weather swings while adapting to long-term climate shifts.
Adapting for Resilience
Climate change is no longer a distant concept; it’s a daily reality for North Florida gardeners. To adapt, communities must embrace:
- Education programs on cold protection and plant selection.
- Affordable protective solutions like frost cloths and portable covers.
- Resilient landscaping strategies, including native plants better suited to fluctuating conditions.
For further reading on climate impacts and gardening adaptation in Florida, see: Cold Protection for North Florida | UF/IFAS Extension; Climate Change and Florida’s Native Plants – Florida Wildflower Foundation; Surviving Winter Storms: Smart Gardening; Frost in the Panhandle? Practical Tips for Protecting Your Garden | Gardening in the Panhandle Practices for Northern Florida Gardens
by Molly Jameson | Dec 11, 2025
Parsley establishes well in late fall and provides steady harvests throughout the winter. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Cool Season Annual Herbs to Plant in December
Cool-season cilantro grows quickly in mild weather and benefits from regular harvesting. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Winter might seem like the quiet season in the garden, but for cool-season herbs, it’s the time they settle in and really show off. While tomatoes and peppers and other warm-season crops may have succumbed to our first cold snaps, many herbs absolutely love the mild, bright, chilly weather we get from December through early spring.
If you’re itching to plant something right now, annual herbs are one of the easiest ways to keep the garden feeling lively through the colder months.
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum)
Cilantro is one of the most reliable herbs you can grow in winter. It thrives in cool temperatures and short days, which makes December an excellent time to plant. You can scatter the seeds directly into containers or a raised bed, thin seedlings to six to eight inches apart, and harvest regularly to keep them producing.
Once warmer days return, cilantro will bolt and complete its life cycle, but that’s not always a bad thing. If you let the plants go to seed, the little green fruits ripen into the familiar brown coriander seeds. They’re useful in the kitchen, and you can save a handful to start next year’s crop.
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
Parsley is technically a biennial, but here in Florida, we treat it as a winter annual. Plant it in late fall and it usually settles in without much complaint, producing a steady mound of leaves you can snip all season. Flat-leaf parsley tends to have stronger flavor, while curly parsley is often used as a garnish, though both types are perfectly good in salads, sauces, and soups.
Dill produces umbrella-shaped clusters of tiny yellow flowers that attract pollinators. Photo by Irina Khomenko, Adobe Stock.
Give parsley sun or light shade and soil that doesn’t dry out too quickly. By the time the weather starts warming again, it naturally shifts its energy toward flowering, which signals the end of its leafy season.
Dill (Anethum graveolens)
Dill is one of those herbs you can spot from across the garden thanks to its fine, feathery texture. The scent alone makes it worth growing. The leaves, stems, and seeds all bring that familiar dill flavor to roasted vegetables, yogurt dips, potatoes, and seafood. The plants can stretch surprisingly tall if they’re happy, especially once the yellow flower heads start forming seeds.
And as long as the weather stays cool, dill usually keeps right on going. Give it a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and you’ll be harvesting for months. Like parsley and fennel, it also draws black swallowtail caterpillars. Many gardeners plant a little extra simply because the payoff – a few bright swallowtails drifting through the garden – is worth sharing.
Borage produces edible leaves and flowers throughout the winter. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Borage (Borago officinalis)
Borage isn’t as widely grown as some of the other herbs here, but it’s one of the more charming additions to a winter bed. The leaves have a faint cucumber scent, and the blue, star-shaped flowers look like something out of a fairytale. Both are edible, and the flowers especially tend to disappear quickly into salads or iced drinks once you start using them. Bees seem to find borage immediately, even on cool days, and it often reseeds itself in the same spot for years.
It doesn’t ask for much – sun, a bit of space, and soil that drains reasonably well. Coming from the Mediterranean, it handles dry weather and even deer browsing better than many soft-leaved herbs.
Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium)
Chervil, sometimes called French parsley, is a delicate, ferny herb with a mild anise flavor that’s perfect for winter cooking. It’s one of those herbs you want to use fresh – just toss a handful in at the end of cooking and it melts right into whatever you’re making. A few specialty forms even produce edible roots similar to small carrots, though the leafy types are what you’ll most often see.
Chervil’s delicate, fern-like leaves thrive in cool weather. Photo by Jiri D., Adobe Stock.
Chervil grows best in full to part sun with rich, moist soil, and it handles cold weather well. Warm temperatures, however, will quickly cause it to bolt and turn bitter, so winter is the ideal window for growing it here.
Lavender (Lavandula spp.)
Lavender always seems to lend a sense of calm to a garden. Most of us know it for the soothing scent used in soaps, lotions, and oils, but it’s also showing up more often in the kitchen. A tiny pinch can add a gentle floral note to pastries, syrups, jams, or a cup of tea.
Because it evolved in the dry hills of the western Mediterranean, lavender appreciates our winter weather far more than our humid summers. Spanish and French types generally handle our climate better than the classic English lavender, but be sure to give it the right conditions, including full sun, well-drained soil, and good air movement.
Spanish lavender blooms during Florida’s cool season and pairs well with rosemary in the kitchen. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Water lavender lightly as it settles in, then let the soil dry between waterings. Once established, it is one of those plants you end up brushing against every time you pass it, simply to enjoy the fragrance.
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
Fennel is both ornamental and practical. The feathery foliage brings a soft, airy look to winter beds, and the flavor of the fronds works beautifully with citrus, fish, or hearty winter salads. If you let fennel grow tall, it eventually produces large umbrella-shaped flower clusters that draw in pollinators and later ripen into seeds you can use in the kitchen.
Most gardeners grow the non-bulbing type for its foliage, though bulb fennel can be planted in early winter if you want to experiment. Like dill and parsley, fennel is a host plant for black swallowtail caterpillars, so it’s worth planting extra if you enjoy watching the full butterfly life cycle. Fennel grows best in full sun with well-drained soil.
Growing Tips for Winter Herbs
Fennel grows well in the cool months, producing feathery foliage and sweet, anise-flavored fronds. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Our winter sun is gentle enough that most herbs appreciate as much light as you can give them. Containers and raised beds work well because they drain quickly, which is important for almost all cool-season herbs. Keep soil evenly moist, and on nights with hard freezes (less than 28°F for over an hour), a light sheet or frost cloth over young plants offers protection. Most of these herbs will rebound quickly after brief cold snaps.
Cool-season herbs are some of the easiest plants you can grow this time of year. They’re fast, flavorful, and usually much less bothered by pests or disease than anything you grow in summer.
A few pots of cilantro, parsley, dill, borage, chervil, lavender, or fennel can brighten up both your meals and your garden all the way to spring.
by Lauren Goldsby | Dec 4, 2025
Agriculture is not the first thing that comes to mind when you’re in Bay County, especially when you’re enjoying a day at the beach! In the 2022 Census of Agriculture, 139 farms were reported, covering more than 70,324 acres. Much of what’s counted as farmland in Bay County is forested land managed for timber rather than traditional row-crop agriculture. Other commodities include hay, berries, livestock, honey and aquaculture. Together, agricultural sales generated $3.69 million dollars in 2022. Agriculture exists here, but it is not the primary economic driver. Tourism plays a much larger role, bringing $3.1 billion in visitor spending and supporting over 35,000 jobs.
This can be a common in areas where there is a large amount of tourism. Both systems depend on healthy natural resources, for different but equally important reasons. This is especially true when it comes to water, which makes up 27% of the county by area. Large scale producers use Best Management Practices (BMPs) to reduce the amount of chemical and nutrient runoff into our water systems.
If an area does not have a lot of agriculture does that mean we are safe from pollution in our water? No. Runoff isn’t just a problem in agricultural systems. A single lawn may not contribute much on its own, but when you add them up they can become a significant source of water pollution.
One of the easiest ways you can reduce impacts on our water resources is with how you fertilize your lawns. Here are some residential BMPs you can follow in your own yard. If you are fertilizing next to a body of water, leave a 10-foot strip unfertilized on the water’s edge. Don’t apply more than 1 pound of slow release nitrogen per 1,000 square feet at a time or exceed 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet per year. If you are using a quick release nitrogen do not apply more than ½ pound at one time for the same area. This chart below can be used to calculate how much fertilizer that is based on the percent of nitrogen. Nitrogen is always the first number, followed by phosphorus and potassium. Remember that right now your lawn doesn’t need any fertilizer. Dormancy is a protection from winter freezes, and fertilizer put out now will not be taken up effectively by dormant grass.
| Nitrogen percent in fertilizer |
Pounds of fertilizer to apply 1lb of nitrogen / 1000 sqft |
| 5% |
20 lbs |
| 10% (10-10-10) |
10 lbs |
| 20% |
5 lbs |
U.S. Department of Agriculture, National Agricultural Statistics Service. (2022). 2022 Census of Agriculture, Bay County, Florida. https://quickstats.nass.usda.gov/
Bay County Chamber of Commerce. (2025). Business & community profile. https://panamacity.org/tourism-business/
by Ben Hoffner | Nov 5, 2025
When making plans for a fall or spring garden it is important to consider which methods of planting and raising your crops will work best for you. Traditional ground plots can be very effective but like with anything there can be negatives. Issues with space and soil fertility will be your biggest challenges with ground plots. Raised Beds are a very popular choice for several reasons like being aesthetically pleasing, mitigation of poor or no soil, decreases runoff/erosion, positive use of space, and maintenance.
Site Selection – Before creating your raised bed there should be a couple of key factors that are considered. Sunlight is the most important factor. Areas where the raised beds are constructed must have full sun for a minimum of 5 to 6 hours per day for best results. It is ideal to have morning sun do it less intense heat in the morning and dries due off the plant. Staying clear of structures, large trees, tree lines will help to have ample sunlight. Access to a water source close by is imperative for a successful raised bed. Make sure it is placed on well drained level ground away from tree roots that could compete with your crops.
Construction – The most “traditional” raised bed structure are made with wood. Consider pressure treated vs. non-treated wood. Pressure treated wood post 2004 is unlikely to contaminate food crops and will have a longer shelf life. Non-pressure treated will be a less up-front cost but will end up costing more overtime due to having to replace the boards earlier and more often. Screws and nails are appropriate methods to secure the corner but be sure to dispose of them correctly. Concrete corner blocks found at stores like Lowes or Home Depot have become a popular mothed to secure the corners. A 4’x8’ bed is the most popular size due to easy maintenance and construction. To construct this sized bed all you will need is three 2”x6”x8’ boards and four concrete corner blocks. After the outline of the bed has been created, you will need to create a base layer to kill the grass below, so it does not grow up through the soil. You can use materials like cardboard or mulch to accomplish this. The raised beds should be filled with either a mix made for raised beds or a 50-50 mix of compost/organic matter and topsoil. 1 cubic yard of material will fill a 4’x8’ raised bed.
Raised beds can be an effective and fun way to garden at home. Consider all factors discussed to make sure your raised beds are successful. For more information on raised beds contact your local UF/IFAS Extension Office. 
4’x8′ Raised bed – Photo taken by Ben Hoffner – Jefferson
by Danielle S. Williams | Oct 3, 2025
Peanuts, also known as groundnuts, earthnuts or goobers have a long history of cultivation. Unlike tree nuts, peanuts are grown underground which is how they earned the nicknames groundnut or earthnut. Originally native to South America, peanuts made their way to North America from Africa, where they were introduced by African slaves in the early 1800’s.
Overturned peanuts in a field ready to be harvested. UF/IFAS Photo by Tyler Jones
First grown in Virginia, peanuts were grown mainly for oil, food, and as a cocoa substitute. During this time, they were regarded as food for livestock and the poor. It wasn’t until the late 1800’s did their demand increase as there was a need for an affordable, high-protein food during the Civil War and World Wars. Their popularity also increased when showman, P.T. Barnum began selling hot roasted peanuts at his traveling circuses.
In the 1900’s, peanuts became a significant agricultural crop when the cotton boll weevil threatened the South’s cotton crop. Through the research findings and suggestions of Dr. George Washington Carver, peanuts were grown as a successful cash crop and contributed greatly to the sustainability of the farm. Though Dr. Carver did not invent peanut butter, he did invent more than 300 new uses for the peanut and peanut byproducts including shaving cream, leather dye, coffee, ink and shoe polish.
Jar of peanut butter surrounded by loose shelled peanuts. UF/IFAS Photo by Tyler Jones
Today, peanuts are grown in 13 states, across the United States and the U.S. is the third largest producer of peanuts in the world. In 2024, Florida harvested 157,000 acres of peanuts, averaging about 3,500 pounds per acre with a production value of roughly $149.5 million (Annual Crop Production 01/10/2025).
Peanut Fun Facts:
- 99% of peanut farms are family-owned, businesses averaging 200 acres
- There are four different types of peanuts – Runner, Valencia, Spanish and Virginia
- Peanut plants are legumes and fix beneficial nitrogen back into the soil
- Peanut butter is an excellent source of niacin, and a good source of vitamin E and magnesium
- Peanuts do not contain cholesterol and are low in saturated fat
- Peanut butter accounts for half of all peanuts eaten in the U.S.
- It takes about 540 peanuts to make a 12-ounce jar of peanut butter
- There are enough peanuts in one acre to make 35,000 peanut butter and jelly sandwiches
- The average person will eat almost 3,000 peanut butter and jelly sandwiches in their lifetime
- Women and children prefer creamy peanut butter, while most men opt for chunky
- Peanut allergies affect about 1.8% of U.S. children and 1.1% of adults the U.S. population
UF/IFAS Peanut Butter Challenge
Help us fight hunger by donating unopened, unexpired jars of peanut butter to the Peanut Butter Challenge! Every year UF/IFAS Extension Offices across the state coordinate the Peanut Butter Challenge to address hunger and food insecurity in our area. You can support the challenge and help fight hunger by donating unopened, unexpired jars of peanut butter, now through October 31st, 2025 to your local UF/IFAS Extension office. Thanks to support from the Florida Peanut Producers Association and the Florida Peanut Federation, your peanut butter donations go even further!
