Sweet Alyssum: The Unsung Hero of Pollinator Crops

Sweet Alyssum: The Unsung Hero of Pollinator Crops

In the realm of pollinator-friendly plants, Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) often flies under the radar despite its remarkable qualities. This delicate flowering plant, with its clusters of tiny blooms, not only adds beauty to gardens but also serves as a vital resource for pollinators.

An exemplary instance is the hybrid series, Easy Breezy™, known for its compact size and remarkable heat tolerance, allowing it to thrive well beyond the spring season. Available in white, pink, and purple variations, this cultivar stands out. Another hybrid, known for its exceptional heat tolerance, is the white-flowering Lobularia ‘Inlbusnopr’, frequently marketed under the trademarked name Snow Princess®.

Let’s explore the many benefits of sweet alyssum as a pollinator crop and why it deserves a place in every garden.

Attractiveness to Pollinators

Sweet alyssum’s petite blossoms, exude a sweet fragrance that acts as a magnet for bees, butterflies, and other pollinating insects. Its nectar-rich flowers provide a vital food source for these creatures throughout the growing season.

Extended Blooming Period

One of the standout features of sweet alyssum is its prolonged blooming period, which often lasts from spring through fall in favorable climates. This extended flowering season ensures a consistent supply of nectar for pollinators, especially during times when other floral resources may be scarce.

Low Maintenance and Versatility

Sweet alyssum is renowned for its adaptability and ease of cultivation. It thrives in a variety of soil types and is tolerant of both drought and heat, making it an excellent choice for gardeners seeking low-maintenance pollinator-friendly plants. Whether grown in garden beds, containers, or hanging baskets, sweet alyssum adds charm and functionality to any landscape.

Companion Planting Benefits

Beyond its role as a pollinator crop, sweet alyssum offers additional benefits to gardeners through companion planting. Its compact growth habit and dense foliage act as a natural ground cover, suppressing weeds and conserving soil moisture. Furthermore, sweet alyssum is known to attract beneficial insects such as hoverflies and predatory wasps, which help control garden pests.

Encouraging Urban Pollination

In urban environments where green spaces may be limited, incorporating sweet alyssum into landscaping projects can play a significant role in supporting local pollinator populations. Whether in public parks, rooftop gardens, or community plots, the addition of sweet alyssum provides essential forage for pollinators and contributes to urban biodiversity conservation efforts.

Sweet alyssum’s unassuming beauty and pollinator-friendly characteristics make it an excellent educational tool for teaching about the importance of pollination and ecosystem dynamics. They may be small in stature, but its impact as a pollinator crop is undeniable. By incorporating this humble yet vital plant into our landscapes, we can create havens for pollinators and contribute to the preservation of biodiversity for generations to come. Let us embrace sweet alyssum as the unsung hero of pollinator crops.

For more information on sweet alyssum, contact your county Extension office.

Useful links:

Sweet Alyssum – University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (ufl.edu)

Flowering Annuals for Georgia Gardens.PDF (uga.edu)

Camellia -The Rose of Winter

Camellia -The Rose of Winter

Article Written by Khadejah Scott, Horticulture & Ag/Natural Resources Agent, UF/IFAS Extension – Wakulla County

In the serene charm of winter, a beautiful flower comes to life, adding its beautiful blooms to gardens everywhere – the Camellia, often hailed as the “Rose of Winter.” Adorned with lush, glossy evergreen leaves and a tendency to bloom even when other plants are dormant, the Camellia showcases nature’s enduring strength and grace. Consider choosing and planting camellias this January to bring this touch of elegance to your own garden.

Camellia flowers. Photo by Marisol Amador, UF IFAS

Description: Originally from Asia, camellia plants first arrived in America in 1797 and were grown in greenhouses in New England. For over two centuries, they have proven to be reliable and valuable additions to the southern landscape. Their leaves are simple, thick, serrated (notched like a saw), alternately oriented, and usually glossy. These plants produce large, multicolored flowers that can grow up to 5 inches. The common name “camellia” refers to hybrids of Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. Sasanqua types bloom from October to December, followed by japonica types, which bloom from December to March.

Landscape Uses: Camellias stand out when few other plants bloom in the fall and winter. Camellia blooms look similar to roses, as well as anemones and peonies. The rest of the year, camellias make excellent landscaping plants due to their glossy, evergreen foliage, intriguing patterns and textures, and low maintenance requirements. Camellias can be used as foundation plantings, screens, accent plants, background groupings, and hedges in the landscape. Mass plantings or clusters can yield the most significant benefit.

Photo by UF IFAS

Plant Selection: You can buy camellias from nurseries, plant sales, garden festivals, and camellia displays. Plant size and form vary significantly among varieties, ranging from small to big, spreading to upright. There is also a great variety of flower shapes, hues, and conditions, and new types are released yearly. A comprehensive list with descriptions and images is available from the American Camellia Society (https://www.americancamellias.com/care-culture-resources).

Care: To ensure the longevity of your camellias, choose a suitable location with bright, partial shade, protecting them from intense afternoon sun. Plant between November and February for optimal root establishment before summer. Use mulch to retain moisture and stabilize temperature fluctuations. Camellias thrive in well-drained, fertile soil with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5. While generally resistant to drought, consistent watering is necessary during prolonged dry periods. Apply acid-forming fertilizer twice a year, and prune lightly in early spring if needed.

Ultimately, camellias stand as enduring botanical treasures and timeless landscape companions. For more information about camellias, contact your local county extension office.

Video: Shrub Pruning Tips

Video: Shrub Pruning Tips

Many shrubs can benefit from a little pruning. Choosing what to prune to maintain a plant’s natural look can sometimes be a challenge. Get a few tips on pruning shrubs with cane type growth from UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.

2024 Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! New Year – New Format

2024 Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! New Year – New Format

Since 2020, we have delivered timely webinars using Zoom and Facebook Live to reach Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! viewers. In 2024, we are changing things up just a bit. Due to changes in the way Zoom and Facebook interface we will only be transmitting live through Zoom.

What does that mean for our Facebook viewers? We will still post Events about upcoming programs with links to register for the episode and will continue to share videos after they are uploaded to YouTube (usually this is within 24 hours). Thank you for your patience as we make this change

Below is our lineup for 2024 – we hope you will join us!

All episodes start at 12 p.m. CDT/1 p.m. EDT

February 1, 2024Spring Vegetable Gardening
March 7, 2024Palm Selection and Care
April 11, 2024Temperate Fruit for NW Florida
May 30, 2024Benefits of a Healthy Lawn
September 12, 2024Fall Vegetable Gardening
October 10, 2024Vermiculture and Composting Tips
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Thriving Landscapes in Low Water Conditions

Thriving Landscapes in Low Water Conditions

It has been dry as a bone lately, and your landscape is beginning to reflect that fact. Before you call it the dreaded “D” word you should understand that these dry periods are part of our yearly weather cycle.  This year, we are drier than usual which means we are indeed in a drought. This can be alarming as you’ve doubtless spent tons of time and money on your landscape and want it to thrive. Irrigating as much as possible may seem attractive but is not necessarily the best strategy. Let’s first look into a few questions. What happens to your plants when Mother Nature turns off the waterworks? What can be done to prevent the mass die-off of our landscape plants?

Drought Response

Before we delve too deeply into the subject, it’s worth taking a few lines to discuss what happens to plants in periods of drought. Many will close the tiny pinpricks in their leaves known as stomata to prevent water loss. This is known as a drought avoidance strategy, and while seemingly foolproof also prevents moisture absorption while shutting down photosynthesis. If this condition persists, the plant will begin to lose the macronutrient carbon and sugars. When a lack of water becomes long term, the plant will perish as it lacks resources.

Close up of black eyed susan flower
UF/IFAS photo: J. Criss

Other plants utilize a drought tolerance strategy. Unlike the avoidance strategy, these plants leave their stomata wide open despite the lack of moisture in the soil. The advantage here is that photosynthesis never stops. They’re banking on a return of water before they perish from dehydration. Most of your landscape plants utilize the first of these strategies. Your gardening habits and strategies are crucial to keep your plants thriving even in our extreme heat.

Gardening Practices

The practices you implement in your gardens are what we refer to in this business as “cultural practices.” You may have heard of these at lectures on Integrated pest management, but they are just as applicable in landscape management.

Irrigation is easily the most crucial of these practices as improper watering is the number one killer of plants. Deeper watering delivered less frequently encourages deeper rooting and higher drought tolerance. Irrigation should occur early in the morning just before sunrise to prevent evaporation and mitigate fungal issues as plant water use begins at sun rise. Frequency and volume are the next critical factors in watering. Turf grasses need 1/2 to 3/4 inch of water, but only when they present the three signs of wilt including folded blades, a bluish-grey hue, and lingering footprints. Bedding and landscape plants are a little trickier as they don’t have standardized signs of wilt. You’ll need to pay close attention for loss of vigor in the leaves which are likely to be subtle. When these signs present, apply enough water to reach their root zone. A great way to extend the time between irrigation events is to amend soils with organic matter and to utilize mulch. These retain moisture keeping your plants less thirsty.

Irrigation system on athletic field
UF/IFAS Photo T. Jones.

Fertilization can be another far more detrimental to plant growth than you think. While it’s true that your plants need nutrition for vigorous growth, only those deficient in the soil are limiting factors. This is simply not possible to create a fertilization strategy without soil testing. Your extension office can facilitate testing, which should occur at a minimum every three years. Balance these deficiencies with your plant’s needs to create a healthy landscape.

Pruning is the final practice to look at for healthy landscapes. Turfgrasses need to be cut at a height conducive to their growth. This varies for each grass type, so make sure you know yours. Landscape plants may also need species specific pruning practices such as deadheading to maintain healthy growth.

To Sum Up

The key takeaway from this article is that stress free plants are more capable of tolerating less than ideal growth environments. Familiarize yourself with the needs of your plants and provide them with what they need to thrive. Very often this means less intensive maintenance practices. For more information, see this  Ask IFAS document, or contact your local extension agent for additional information on this and any topic regarding your gardens and more.

Step-by-Step Instructions: Indirect Seeding Fall Veggies

Step-by-Step Instructions: Indirect Seeding Fall Veggies

Start your fall garden seeds in containers to give them a healthy head start. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Start your fall garden seeds in containers to give them a healthy head start. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Seed veggies into starter cell flats using a fine-textured growing medium designed to support seed germination and early seedling development. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Seed veggies into starter cell flats using a fine-textured growing medium designed to support seed germination and early seedling development. Photo by Molly Jameson.

Step-by-Step Instructions: Indirect Seeding Fall Veggies

While summer gardens offer a variety of intriguing fruiting crops, I have a special fondness for gardening during the fall season. This preference stems from the reduced pest pressure, decreased need for watering, fewer weeds, and the more favorable cooler temperatures for completing gardening tasks. Although it generally offers a more straightforward gardening experience, achieving success with your fall garden still hinges on applying the right techniques, with one crucial aspect being the care for seeds and young seedlings.

Indirect seeding allows you to nurture your seedlings before they establish their permanent residence in your garden, ensuring their growth into robust, mature plants. Below, you’ll discover a step-by-step guide to indirect seeding and planting for fall vegetables. By following these instructions, you’ll get a head start in cultivating a thriving fall garden that will delight your taste buds.

Seeding into Starter Cells:

While many crops can be started indirectly in starter cells, it’s important to note that root vegetables (such as beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, etc.), peas, and beans are exceptions due to their delicate root systems, which do not transplant well. These particular crops thrive when directly seeded into the garden. Conversely, fall crops that typically benefit from indoor seeding include Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, cilantro, kale, lettuce, mustards, parsley, spinach, and Swiss chard. For Florida planting dates, transplant ability, and other detailed planting information, see Table 1 in the UF/IFAS publication Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide.

If you use fluorescent grow lights, maintain 2 to 4 inches between the top of the seedlings' canopy and the fluorescent bulbs. Photo by Molly Jameson.
If you use fluorescent grow lights, maintain 2 to 4 inches between the top of the seedlings’ canopy and the fluorescent bulbs. Photo by Molly Jameson.
  1. Begin by moistening a starting mix, which is any fine-textured growing medium designed to support seed germination and early seedling development. Fill seed starter cells with this prepared mix, ensuring a level, flat surface.
  2. Create shallow indentations (2-3 times the diameter of the seed) in the starting mix in each starter cell using your finger and place 1-2 seeds in each cell. (Remove all but the strongest seedling if multiple seeds germinate in the same cell.)
  3. To ensure even coverage and prevent clumping, lightly sprinkle dry starting mix over the seeds.
  4. Label with the crop name, variety, and date.
  5. Mist the surface with water from a spray bottle, pump sprayer, or a hose spray nozzle. Maintain moisture levels, avoiding waterlogging.
  6. Before the seeds germinate, keep them in a temperature-controlled room or out of direct sunlight. Germination time varies, but typically takes 5 to 14 days, depending on the crop, environmental conditions, and seed quality. (For fall varieties, germination is best between 50-80°F.)
  7. As soon as seedlings emerge, move them to a sunny location with more than 6 hours of direct sunlight. If temperatures exceed 85°F, provide afternoon shade to protect them from intense heat. If using full spectrum grow lights indoors (such as a T5 fluorescent light fixture), place seed starter cells at a distance of 2 to 4 inches between the top of the seedlings’ canopy and the fluorescent bulbs for 14 to 16 hours a day.
  8. Continue to keep the starting mix moist but not waterlogged.

Up-potting into Larger Pots:

Up-potting refers to transplanting a young plant or seedling from a smaller container or pot into a larger one. While up-potting most seedling crop varieties into larger pots before transplanting into the garden is beneficial, you can skip this step and directly transplant seedlings from the starter cells into the garden if conditions are favorable (maximum air temperature is less than 86°F). However, keep in mind that young seedlings may be more vulnerable to rain, wind, insects, and animal disturbances. Up-potting into larger pots with nutrient-rich potting mix offers better protection and more time for root development.

When up-potting, carefully extract each seedling using a butter knife to avoid disturbing the roots. Photos by Molly Jameson.
When up-potting, carefully extract each seedling using a butter knife to avoid disturbing the roots. Photos by Molly Jameson.
  1. When seedlings develop “true leaves” (the second set of leaves after the initial seedling leaves), it is time to transfer them into larger pots (2″-4″ wide).
  2. To start, fill the larger pots about halfway with pre-moistened, nutrient-rich potting mix designed for vegetables, ensuring good drainage.
  3. After thoroughly watering the small seedlings, carefully extract each from the starter cells, using a butter knife for gentle and precise removal to avoid disturbing the roots.
  4. Being careful not to disturb the roots, place each seedling gently into their halfway-filled pot and add more potting mix until the seedling is secure, standing upright, with all roots covered. There should only be one seedling per pot.
  5. Keep seedlings in a sunny location with more than 6 hours of direct sunlight. If temperatures exceed 85°F, provide afternoon shade to protect them from intense heat. If using full spectrum grow lights indoors (such as a T5 fluorescent light fixture), place seedlings at a distance of 4 to 6 inches between the top of the seedlings’ canopy and the fluorescent bulbs for 12 to 14 hours a day.
  6. Continue to keep the potting soil moist but not waterlogged.

Transplanting into the Garden:

When the time is right, dig a small hole in the garden bed and place the plant, along with the potting mix, in the hole, following the crop-specific spacing requirements. Photo by Molly Jameson.
When the time is right, dig a small hole in the garden bed and place the plant, along with the potting mix, in the hole, following the crop-specific spacing requirements. Photo by Molly Jameson.
  1. Once the plants have developed strong roots and reach about the height of their pots, they are ready for transplantation into the garden.
  2. If the plants have been indoors under grow lights, allow them to “harden-off” by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for a week. This helps them adjust to wind, direct sunlight, and varying temperatures.
  3. Prepare the garden bed with compost and other soil amendments.
  4. Water the plants thoroughly before carefully removing them from their pots, ensuring minimal disruption to the roots.
  5. For each plant, dig a small hole in the garden bed and place the plant, along with the potting mix, in the hole, following the crop-specific spacing requirements (see Table 1 in the UF/IFAS publication Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide).
  6. Cover the roots and maintain consistent soil moisture, avoiding waterlogging.

In summary, mastering the art of indirect seeding and planting fall vegetables can greatly improve your chance of a successful harvest. From carefully sowing your seeds in starter cells to up-potting and ultimately transplanting into your garden, each step is a vital component of the process. So, roll up your sleeves, get your hands dirty, and witness your fall garden flourish. Happy gardening!