by Mary Salinas | Jul 20, 2015
July always brings the blessing of abundant figs on my trees. A new crop waits to be picked and enjoyed every day for nearly a month. The tender sweet fruit can be enjoyed fresh, prepared into jams or used in a myriad of recipes.
Ripe figs ready to pick. Photo credit: Mary Derrick, UF/IFAS Extension.
The fig (Ficus carica) is native to Asia Minor and the Mediterranean regions of the world and has been cultivated for an estimated 7,000 years. Spanish explorers brought the fig with them to Florida in 1575 and it has had a presence here ever since. Since the fig is adapted to a dry climate in its native regions, the humidity it encountered in Florida can cause fruit to split; but new cultivars have been developed to minimize this problem.
Fig trees usually grow to a maximum of 25 feet and have large bright green leaves that fall in the autumn. Fruit develops from June to August, depending on the chosen cultivar.
The large fig leaves are quite ornamental. Photo credit: Mary Derrick, UF/IFAS Extension.
Choose a spot for planting a fig tree that receives full sun and good drainage. Once established, figs are drought tolerant and only need supplemental irrigation if we have an extended drought. No structural pruning is required but you can prune to keep the tree from growing so tall that you cannot pick the delicious fruit. Be sure to do your pruning just after the fruit is gone as the fruit develops on the terminal ends of the branches from last year’s growth.
Many figs grow and fruit sufficiently without applied fertilizer, however, a light fertilization with a 10-10-10 with micronutrients can be helpful for small trees getting established and those with reduced fruiting. Young trees can benefit from a ½ pound three to five times from February to August while large trees could use up to 4 pounds per application on the same schedule.
There are a few pests that do damage figs; the most common, though, are the birds and squirrels that get the fruit before you do. Seldom do figs need to be sprayed when grown in the home garden.
For more information:
The Fig
Fig nutrition facts and recipes
by Matthew Orwat | Jul 15, 2015
Coneflower, after deadheading, with new growth and flowers. Photo Credit Matthew Orwat, UF/IFAS Extension
During these “dog days”, full of hot temperatures punctuated with intermittent rain, gardeners can lose the motivation to get out there and get things done. One task, deadheading, can make a huge difference in the appearance of one’s landscape without a whole lot of effort.
The act of deadheading is the removal of individual blooms or flowering stalks that are past their prime. When deadheading, always trim the stem to an area above a node. The node can be determined by the presence of a leaf and its attachment to a stem. This area is known as the leaf axle.
Roses before and after deadheading Photo Credit Matthew Orwat, UF/IFAS Extension
Roses before and after deadheading Photo Credit Matthew Orwat, UF/IFAS Extension
The main benefit of deadheading flowering shrubs and perennials, particularly in the spring and summer, is that removal of spent flowers promotes new growth and more flowers. It also eliminates unsightly seed stalks and decaying petals from the landscape. If trying to save seed or promote re-seeding, do not deadhead in the fall or near the terminal side of a given season for any plant.
Once proper deadheading is performed, new growth will emerge from the trimmed area. Oftentimes, this new growth is another single flower or flower cluster.
Salvia, before and after deadheading Photo Credit Matthew Orwat, UF/IFAS Extension
While this process is generally used for repeat flowering shrubs, such as roses, it can also be used effectively on crapemyrtle, salvia, cone flower, coreopsis, and many others.
Promote an extended bloom season in the garden and deadhead!
by Larry Williams | Jul 7, 2015
There are a number of plants in my landscape that bring back fond memories – plants that I propagated.
Red Mulberry. Photo credit: Vern Williams, Indiana University, bugwood.org.
There’s a mulberry tree in my backyard that I rooted years ago. I took the cuttings from an old mulberry tree in my hometown. As a boy, I climbed the tree, got in trouble once for coming home with mulberry stains on my clothes. I liked the berries and still do. I have good childhood memories about the tree.
About twenty years ago I visited the property adjacent to my childhood home. The tree was still there. It was during mulberry season. I enjoyed a few mulberries. I took about eight or ten cuttings from the tree. About a year after my visit, the property sold. The new owner bulldozed the tree.
But because of the cuttings that I rooted, the tree still lives and not just in my memory. The trees produced by those cuttings are genetically the same as the parent tree. Essentially, they are clones. The one in my backyard produces mulberries each year.
You too can propagate memories. Not all plants can be propagated from cuttings but many can be. Sometimes trial and error is necessary to learn proper timing in taking cuttings. But most reliable references will provide the time of year to take cuttings based on the plant species.
Stem cuttings should be removed from the parent plant with a clean, sharp knife or pruner. Ideally your cutting should be 4-6 inches in length and not much thicker than a pencil in diameter.
Take the bottom two-thirds of leaves off on each cutting. The cuttings should be stuck upright in a propagation medium. I usually use a good quality potting mix and mix in a little course sand or perlite for better drainage. The cuttings should be inserted deep enough to hold them upright, usually ½ to 1 inch.
To help promote rooting of moderate to difficult to root plants, wound the cuttings by scraping the lower ½ to 1 inch of the stem with a clean, sharp knife. The scrape should remove the bark or “skin.” Then dip the cutting in a rooting hormone covering the scrape with the rooting powder prior to inserting the cutting into the rooting medium.
I usually use a four inch pot, gallon size pot or bedding plant flat with drainage holes as a rooting container. I may stick as many as ten stem cuttings in a gallon size pot. I place the container of cuttings in a shady location outdoors and keep it moist. The cuttings should produce roots in two to sixteen weeks, depending upon plant species and the environment.
After the cuttings have rooted, carefully remove them and individually plant each rooted cutting in its own four inch to one gallon size pot. Keep the potting medium moist but not soggy. After the roots adequately fill the pot, the plant should be strong enough to be planted in the ground.
As your rooted cuttings grow, hopefully they will provide fond memories.
by Mary Salinas | Jul 7, 2015
Butterflies are not only beautiful to look at in your landscape; they serve as important pollinators and indicators of the health of our environment. Attracting them to your garden and incorporating some features to get them to stay and make it their home involves a little planning ahead of time for optimum results.
Queen butterfly. Photo credit: Milt Putnam, UF/IFAS.
Choose a location that provides some protection from wind. Trees and shrubs that provide wind protection also serve as a safe harbor from rain and predators. The garden should be mostly sunny with some part sun areas. Ensure that any new plantings have access to a convenient irrigation source so they can be successfully established and maintained in good health.
Now you’ll need to choose the plants. Adults feed on the nectar of many flowering trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals and, fortunately, there are usually many choices that will meet your site requirements and your taste preferences. In order to keep the butterflies in your garden, certain plants need to be available to serve as host plants for their young. Determine which species of butterfly is common in your area and that you want to attract. Most species have very few plants on which the caterpillars can feed so those host plants need to be chosen wisely. Determine whether any of the plants you already have are host plants and they can be integrated into your butterfly garden. For example, cassia is a host plant for the Cloudless Sulphur and citrus is a host plant for the Giant Swallowtail.
In choosing your nectar plants, select those that are native or Florida-Friendly as they are lower maintenance, giving you less trouble in the long run. Choose plants that have flowers in a variety of color, size, and shape. Different butterflies like to feed at different elevations, so choose trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals of varying heights. In order to have nectar available throughout the time when the butterflies occur, include plants that bloom at different times of the year. And include some plants that bloom from spring to late fall, like pentas or moss verbena.
Larger plants should be placed in the background with smaller plants layered in the foreground. When you plant smaller annuals and perennials, place them in masses to better attract the butterflies. Consider placing host plants in an area that is in close proximity to the nectar plants, but in an area of your garden that is not a focal point. Host plants can get quite ragged looking from hungry caterpillars!
Good maintenance practices will enhance the health of your garden. Regular fertilization and irrigation if needed will help keep your plants in bloom and healthy; healthy plants are less susceptible to disease and pests. Avoid pesticides as they may harm the very creatures you are trying to attract. Never use Bt or systemic pesticide. If you must, target a pest with lower risk oils or soaps and then only treat the affected plants. Lastly, be aware of beneficial insects that will help you achieve satisfactory control of a pest.
Now that your plants are placed there are several things to do to make your butterfly garden complete. Add a spot where water can puddle on the ground for the adult butterflies to drink. They require minerals from the soil that get dissolved in the water. Also add a rock or log in a sunny spot where butterflies can rest and sun themselves. And consider placing a comfortable place for you to sit and enjoy the beauty of your garden and its inhabitants!
For more information:
Butterfly Gardening in Florida
by Mary Salinas | Jun 23, 2015
Night blooming cereus makes a stunning display. Photo credit: Sally Menk, Florida Master Gardener.
Many of us are working during the day and are not enjoying our gardens during the daytime. And maybe it is just too warm in the summer to be outside during the heat of the day. That leaves us to enjoy our gardens later in the day when the sun fades and evening approaches.
As the sunlight diminishes, the bright colors fade slowly to a black, gray and white world. The first colors to fade are the blues, purples and reds. Pastel pinks, yellows, oranges, grays and blues remain more visible for a longer time and take on a luminescent quality in the pale light. White blossoms now have their time to shine as they stand out against the darker hues of foliage and flowers.
White four o’clock. Photo credit: Sandra Sherman, Florida Master Gardener.
If you find that your time in the garden is late in the day and into the evening, consider planning for that in your plant selections.
Here are some suggestions when planning your twilight garden:
- Add some late-afternoon and night-blooming plants such as four o’clocks, moonflower and night-blooming cereus
- Plants with silvery gray or white foliage glimmer in the moonlight. Consider white caladium, lamb’s-ears, silvery agaves, dusty miller and licorice plant among others. The white in variegated leaves of plants such as pentas, hosta, ginger and dogwood will stand out when dark green leaves have faded into the darkness.
- The tranquil sounds of a fountain will enhance end of the day relaxation.
- And, of course, add plants with white or pastel-colored flowers. The effect will be enhanced when luminous white blossoms are at different levels; for instance white spider lilies near the ground, white roses at eye level and white sparkleberry high above.
Pastel four o’clock opens late in the day. Photo credit: Linda Griffin, Florida Master Gardener.
by Les Harrison | Jun 15, 2015
Eastern Blood-sucking Conenose bugs are found in and around plant where they are hunting for insects.
While it is not exactly a jungle “out there” in the landscape, there are some occasionally encountered insects which can inflict pain. The kissing bug and the blood-sucking conenose are native insects which are best not physically encountered.
The native kissing bug, Triatoma sanguisuga, is part of the assassin bug family. This insect is commonly called a kissing bug because it targets the soft tissues around the mouth of mammals as a feeding site.
As if being in the assassin bug family is not bad enough for its image, this pest’s South American cousin is responsible for inoculating victims with Chagas disease. Chagas disease, a protozoan infection, has occurred in some western states but not Florida.
The bloodsucking conenose, in assassin bug family too, is found in north Florida. It is a dark brown, winged bug, 3/4 inch long, with the edges of its abdomen alternating in light and dark colors.
They have a slender, straight beak with piercing-sucking mouthparts. The antennae are inserted on the side of the head between the eyes and the end of the beak.
They are rarely seen during the day, instead hiding in leaf litter and other debris near their intended host. Birds apparently consider them quite tasty and are easy targets for avian predators.
Kissing bugs primarily feed at night on the blood of sleeping animals, such as raccoons and opossums which burrow in the vicinity.
Their life cycle varies considerably depending on temperature, humidity, and availability of hosts. Females lay one egg at a time, up to five eggs each day.
Problems arise when these insects encounter humans. If this creature enters a home or dwelling, its nocturnal habits make humans easy prey.
The bloodsucking conenose will enter into a home by crawling through cracks in the foundation, torn window screens, or other structural flaws or inadequacies. Many times they enter by simply clinging to a domestic pet or to the clothing of an unaware person. Once indoors, they are found in bedding, cracks in the floors and walls, or under furniture.
Most bites from conenose bugs are rarely felt. However, some can be quite painful and infection can occur if the wound is scratched and contaminated.
The assassin bug, the entomological cousin of the kissing bug, usually is encountered in foliage and has little inclination to enter homes. It is capable of delivering a nasty surprise to the unsuspecting gardeners who disturb this ambush predator.
The green leaves and pretty flowers are an ideal habitat for the assassin bug and the kissing bug to put the bite on ideal menu selections. This is something to keep in mind this spring when enjoying the panhandle Florida’s great outdoors.
To learn more about the assassin bug or the kissing bug, contact your UF/IFAS Extension Office.
