by Taylor Vandiver | Dec 24, 2013
Garden Tools. Photo courtesy: UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions
Due to a lack of snow, Florida’s winter landscape chores are relatively uncomplicated. However, that doesn’t mean they’re unimportant. As the growing season comes to a close and gardeners mow, snip and spade for the final time, it’s time to consider proper cleaning and storage of all that equipment. A little preventative maintenance can avoid frustration and expensive repair in the future. When tools are maintained properly their life is extended substantially and their work efficiency is increased. A few examples of preventative care include cleaning and sanitizing, sharpening blades, and maintaining power equipment.
When cleaning tools, remove caked on soil or vegetation using a wire brush, scraper or a strong stream of water. Sharpen hoes, pruners, loppers and saws.
Always remember to check tools thoroughly for loose screws or nuts and tighten them accordingly. Spraying the bare metal parts and cutting edges of tools with a penetrating oil, such as WD-40, will help prevent rust. It is thought that wiping tools’ wooden handles with boiled linseed oil will help prevent wood from cracking and drying.
Another item to consider while preparing one’s landscape for the winter is the garden hose. While hoses don’t need a great deal of care, a few small steps are important if they are to last. Store hoses on hose supports or reels or coil them loosely rather than hanging them on nails. Using hose supports or reels prevents the hose from sagging and kinking. Drain all the water and store in a dry location before storing hoses away for the winter.
Power equipment, such as lawn mowers, may require additional winter preparations. Always refer to the owner’s manual for specific information. However, in general, the following steps can be taken to winterize this equipment.
Remove collected grease, dirt and plant material from the equipment. It is always beneficial to check for loose screws and nuts and tighten them accordingly. Remember to sharpen cutting edges. If equipment has a four-cycle engine, change the oil by following instructions listed in the owner’s manual. Remove all gasoline from tank. It’s good to run the engine a turn or two to coat the cylinder walls with oil, and then replace the plug.
Two-cycle engines, or engines that run with a gas and oil mixture, also should have the oil-gas mixture removed for the winter. Run the engine with the choke open to remove fuel from the lines. Check the spark plug and replace if it is worn. Replace other worn or damaged parts as well. Always avoid storing gasoline over the winter. Old gasoline does not ignite easily, making the machines using it work harder.
Once the cold weather creeps in to Florida, gardeners may feel as if they can sit back and wait for spring, however, don’t neglect proper maintenance of garden tools. When the weather warms up, properly working garden equipment will be the gardens’ best asset!
For more information feel free to contact your local Extension Office.
by Julie McConnell | Oct 14, 2013
Swamp Sunflower Photo credit: UF/IFAS Milt Putnam
Fall Blooming Native Wildflowers
Drive along any highway or rural road at this time of year and chances are some color will catch your eye; not so much in the tree tops, but in ditches and right of ways.
Although yellow seems to be the predominant color in the fall, pay attention and you may spot reds, oranges, and even some blues in the wildflower pallet.
Examples of wildflowers that bloom late summer to early fall in the Panhandle:
• Bluestar (Amsonia ciliate), blue flowers, 1-3’
• Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa), orange flowers, 1-3’
• Lanceleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata), yellow flowers, 1-2’
• Leavenworth’s Coreopsis (Coreopsis leavenworthii), yellow flowers, 1-3’
• Swamp Sunflower (Helianthus angustifolia), yellow flowers, 2-6’
• Rayless Sunflower (Helianthus radula), purple flower, 2-3’
• Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), red flowers 2-4’
• Lyreleaf Sage (Salvia lyrata), purple flowers, 1-2’
• Goldenrods (Solidago spp.), yellow flowers, 1.5-6’
• Tall Ironweed (Veronia angustifolia), purple flowers, 2-4’
To learn more about these and many other wildflowers read EDIS Publication “Common Native Wildflowers of North Florida.”
by Mary Salinas | Sep 23, 2013
Is the newest growth on your sago palm turning yellow, brown, frizzy looking and dying – is it a pest or disease or something else?
Photo credit: Mary Derrick
This sago palm is suffering from a classic case of manganese deficiency. When sago palms lack manganese, the newest leaves will develop yellow splotches or be entirely yellow. As the leaves die, they turn brown and take on a frizzled appearance. Sometimes the leaves or fruit may be smaller than normal. If left unchecked, the sago usually dies.
Manganese is a micronutrient required by all plants for normal, healthy growth and is most available for plant uptake when the soil pH is between 5.5 and 6.5. Soils in the Florida panhandle are often naturally low in manganese and then what available manganese is present can be unavailable for the plant to use if the pH of the soil is much above 6.5. Also, manganese tends to be leached from the soil when the pH is below 5.5. Soil pH and nutrient testing is useful to determine if soils are nutrient deficient. Contact your county Extension office for information on getting that done.
[notice]Before treating, rule out an infestation of Asian cycad scale. Click here for a UF IFAS Extension publication on this damaging insect. Be aware that both are common problems for sago palms and that your sago may be afflicted with both![/notice]
If this is happening to a sago palm, the good news is that it is easy to correct. Manganese sulfate is readily available at garden centers, feed &seed stores and independent nurseries. Just make sure to get manganese sulfate and don’t confuse it with magnesium sulfate (Epson salts). The amount of manganese sulfate necessary to correct this deficiency will vary with its size, soil type and pH. Sago palms in sandy, acidic soils require less manganese sulfate than those in high pH soils. One ounce is sufficient for a very small plant in sandy, acidic soil. A very large sago in a high pH soil may require about five pounds, however. Spread the product evenly over the root zone and water in with about a half inch of water.
The affected leaves cannot be cured but new growth should return to normal. If the new growth is still affected, an additional application of manganese sulfate may be needed. Once sago palms have suffered from a manganese deficiency, half the initial rate should be applied yearly to prevent the deficiency from re-occurring.
Even though sago palms are not true palms – they are cycads – their nutritional needs are very similar to palms. Most of the time they grow well without any supplemental fertilization, but if they do need fertilizing, use a 8-2-12-4 (the fourth number is magnesium) palm fertilizer with micronutrients and avoid using other fertilizer products in their root zones.
For more information on sago palms please see:
Cycas revoluta, Sago Palm
by Eddie Powell | Aug 12, 2013
Soil Sampling Probe
Image Credit: Eddie Powell
Often, vegetable gardeners that I work with through the Walton County Extension office pose the question: Why should I take a soil sample?
I always answer that soil testing will determine whether lime and fertilizer need to be applied to the soil to support good plant growth.
Soil sampling must be done prior to the planting of crops so that it can be determined whether or not adequate levels of nutrients are present in the soil and if the pH is at the proper level for the type of crop grown. The test results of these soil samples will also indicate the amount of fertilizer that should be applied to the garden.
Keep in mind that this test only tells you the amount of fertilizer (if any) to add to the soil, and does not specify when and how often it should be applied. Such information can be gathered at your local Extension Office.
It is best to consult with your local extension agent once you have received your soil results so that he or she can advise you on the proper steps to take as to when and how to apply fertilizer and/or lime to the soil. Also, refer to this publication for tips on soil testing for the home vegetable garden.
Soil testing will save money in the long run and is the most important step that is taken in preparing garden soils for good plant growth. Remember, the fall growing season is the time to do your soil testing for the spring. Contact your Local UF/IFAS Extension Office for a soil test kit.
by Taylor Vandiver | Aug 12, 2013
Consumers worldwide are rediscovering the benefits of buying locally grown food. However, this notion is not necessarily new. Farmers have been making their freshly produced wares available at local locations for years.
So, why should anyone buy local? Local produce is considered fresher, tastier, and more nutritious. Studies have shown that fresh produce loses nutrients quickly during transportation. During the trip from harvest to dinner table, sugars in the plants turn to starches, plant cells shrink, and produce loses its vitality. Food grown in the local community was probably picked within the past day or two and, therefore, is much fresher. It is also good for the local economy.
Buying directly from family farms helps them stay in business. Less than 1% of Americans now claim farming as their primary occupation, which isn’t surprising considering that today’s farmer gets less than 10 cents of the retail food dollar. Local farmers who sell directly to consumers get full retail price for their produce. Buying local decreases the likelihood of urbanization and increases the diversity of produce available locally.
As the value of direct-marketed fruits and vegetables increases, selling farmland for development becomes less likely. Also, rural farming areas can serve as a habitat for many species of wildlife. Buying local produce proactively preserves the agricultural landscape. By supporting local farmers today, you can help ensure that there will be farms in your community tomorrow, that there will be a habitat for wildlife, and that future generations will have access to locally produced food.
How can you be involved in this resurging concept, you might ask? One of the many ways you can provide support, while gaining fresh produce, is to join a CSA. The term CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture. It involves one or more farmers, and many individuals or families, from a community who pledge financial support to a farm operation. The farmers and consumers share the risks and benefits of food production. Members are considered “share-holders” of the farm and they generally pledge in advance to cover the anticipated costs of the farm operation and farmer’s salary.
In return for their commitment, consumers receive “shares” or a regular portion of what has been harvested from the farm throughout the different growing seasons. There are risks associated with farming that affect both the farmer and the shareholder, including poor harvests due to unfavorable weather or pests. By selling directly to their community farmers receive better prices for their crops, gain some financial security, and are relieved of much of the burden of marketing. Members benefit because they receive a wide variety of fresh, local produce harvested at the peak of freshness and flavor. If you would like to find a CSA in your community you can visit the local harvest website.
There are numerous other opportunities to be involved in supporting local agricultural operations. A good place to start would be to make a visit to your local Extension office. The agents there can help point you in the right direction, whether you want to start your own farming operation or simply provide fresh produce for your home.
by Beth Bolles | Aug 5, 2013
Thinking of bulbs for the garden? Summer is not necessarily the time of year that gardeners think about beautiful blooms from bulbs and bulb-like plants, but there are many that bloom in the summer garden.
In general, many types of plants with an underground storage organ are classified as a bulb. These include plants with tubers, rhizomes, or corms. True bulbs including Lycoris and Crinum lily are compressed stems with a growing point surrounded by thick, fleshy scales. Corms such as Crocosmia are solid masses of stem tissue with a terminal bud and side nodes. The rhizome is an underground stem that grows laterally, with representatives of this type being blackberry lily and ginger.
It is likely that your garden is full of bulb-like plants and you were just not aware of their underground beginnings. If you want to consider a few more for the summer garden, here are some good choices.
Blackberry lily is a member of the Iris family that offers good summer bloom in our northern Florida gardens. Plants form sprays of foliage about 2 feet in height with stalks of orange flowers with red spots. Plant in full sun or partial shade and supply with well drained, amended soil.
A hairstreak butterfly visits the Blackberry lily flower.
Another bright summertime bloomer is Croscomia. Commonly overlooked early in the year as foliage regrows from the cold, the bright orange flowers that emerge in summer make it a feature in garden beds. Plants grow well in both full sun and partial shade but clumps can expand easily beyond the desirable planting area. Thin out every few seasons to keep the clump manageable.
A tuberous perennial that will have stunning flowers closer to eye level is the Gloriosa or flame lily. Plant stems will wind around a trellis or garden feature, hold on with tendrils, and support large upward-curved petals. Flower colors are red, yellow, orange, or mixes of several colors. Flame lily prefers sunny locations and lots of moisture in the growing season. Winter soils should be drier to prevent tubers from rotting.
Flame lily growing with a spring blooming vine.
All of these options can enhance your garden and extend your bulb growing season beyond the spring. Happy Gardening!
