So far, our fall has been unusually dry with warmer temperatures. Even though our average annual rainfall is around sixty-two inches per year, we don’t always receive rain exactly when we need it. There are times when we need to apply additional water. During dry weather, employ the following water management practices to improve the water efficiency of your lawn and landscape.
Mulching helps conserve water. On bare ground, about sixty percent of the water can be lost through evaporation. A two to three-inch layer of mulch will help hold onto the water so the plants can use it. Try to mulch the entire root zone when possible or at least apply mulch all the way around the plants out to the end of the branches.
Irrigate on as needed basis during dry periods. Credit: Larry Williams
When watering, a thorough soaking to wet the soil to a depth of six to eight inches is much better for plants than light, frequent watering. Three to five gallons of water applied to one spot under the canopy of trees or shrubs should thoroughly saturate the root zone in that location. During dry periods, as a general rule), twenty-five percent of the root system, when watered thoroughly, can absorb all the water a plant requires at any given time.
When watering lawns, apply one inch of water per week when we are not getting rain. Although many sprinklers have irrigation rates of ¼ inch per hour, some may apply up to one inch per hour. Measure your irrigation rate and uniformity by placing several open-top containers of the same size under the sprinkler and see how long it takes to apply a known amount of water such as ½ inch.
An efficient irrigation program on turf should not begin until the lawn grass shows signs of moisture stress. Symptoms include a dull and bluish-green color and leaf blades folding. The most efficient time to irrigate is between sunset and sunrise because of less evaporation, less wind and lower temperatures. Early morning is the next most effective time to irrigate while midday is the least efficient.
Avoid fertilizing drought-stressed plants. Fertilizers are chemical salts and will dehydrate roots when water is in short supply. If you need to apply a pesticide, make certain the plant is not wilted at the time and spray during early morning or late afternoon. You should also avoid unnecessary pruning of plants during drought. Pruning encourages new growth, which has a high demand for water.
It’s hard to have a great yard full of Centipedegrass isn’t it? All the fertilizer, watering, aerating, weed spraying, fungicide spraying, insect spraying, the list is never-ending and wallet draining. Except, it’s not hard and doesn’t have to be expensive. It’s easy. In fact, it’s so easy that people even make it hard because they think it should be. The list of basic tips to achieve a great yard of Centipedegrass is very short, let’s get into it.
FertilizingProperly – Keep it to a minimum! Centipedegrass has a very low Nitrogen (N) requirement for optimum growth and development (0.4 lbs – 2 lbs/1000 ft 2 per year). Centipede is naturally light green in color and trying to force the deep green of Kentucky Bluegrass upon it will almost certainly do it harm. There are many excellent quality Centipedegrass lawns in the Panhandle that have never received a single prill of fertilizer. Don’t take my word for it though, the UF/IFAS publication Centipedegrass for Florida Lawns says, “Established centipedegrass lawns require about 50% less nitrogen fertilizer than other lawn grasses grown in Florida. Centipedegrass is a low maintenance turfgrass and does not respond well to excessive use of fertilizer, especially nitrogen.”
Centipedegrass lawn that has never been fertilized and mowed regularly when it reaches 3″ to achieve a 2.5″ cut height. Photo courtesy Daniel Leonard.
Timely Mowing – Other than overfertilizing, the next easiest way to cause significant damage to a Centipedegrass lawn is to mow it incorrectly. Centipede prefers a mowing height of around 2.5” and actively growing grass should be mowed every 7-14 days, removing no more than 1/3 of the grass blade. In my experience, this is much higher and often less frequent than many people mow their lawns. All too often, I see Centipede lawns that are allowed to grow tall and unkempt and then mowed to near golf course fairway height with the occasional bare “scalped” spot where the mower ran across an unlevel area of lawn. Mowing short and infrequently is harmful because mowing is inherently a major stress to the grass. You’re asking a lot of a plant by removing a large chunk of photosynthetic leaf tissue and then repeatedly asking the plant to regrow. Be kind to your grass and mow correctly. *Additionally, try to not mow your lawn in droughty conditions as this can exacerbate mowing stress and cause serious lawn issues.
Right Plant, Right Place – Much of the bad rap turfgrass receives comes from people trying to force it to grow where it shouldn’t be. If your yard has areas of significant shade or receives significant foot or vehicle traffic, Centipedegrass (or most any grass for that matter) may not be for you, in those areas at least. Like all turfgrasses (though some are more shade and traffic tolerant than others), Centipedegrass does best in full sun and detests having the soil its roots are going in repeatedly trampled and compacted. In areas with those conditions, maybe having a mulched landscaped bed with shade tolerant plants or a rocked walking path would be more appropriate. You and the grass will certainly be happier working with those options than fighting against your site conditions.
Though maintaining a Centipedegrass lawn is simple, that isn’t to say that if you follow all these tips that your yard will be perfect all the time. There will still be the occasional dieback, weed ingression, mole cricket infestation and the like, however, following the above tips will make your grass much more resilient and equipped to handle those stresses. For more information about Centipedegrass or other horticultural topics, contact your local UF/IFAS Extension office. Happy gardening!
The native Powderpuff mimosa, Mimosa strigillosa, has potential as a turf companion in the North Florida landscape. Learn about the growth of this plant from UF IFAS Escambia Extension to determine if you want to add it as a groundcover or companion plant in your yard.
The May Gardening in the Panhandle Live focused on the various aspects of turfgrass care and species characteristics.
The panel included:
Dr. Bryan Unruh, UF IFAS Extension Turfgrass Science Professor
Sheila Dunning, UF IFAS Extension Commercial Horticulture Agent in Okaloosa County
Josh Criss, UF IFAS Extension Residential Horticulture Agent in Santa Rosa County
Daniel Leonard, UF IFAS Extension Horticulture Agent and Director in Calhoun County
Q: Does No Mow March cause more problems in maintaining a good lawn? Pay attention to what you are leaving behind. If you have aggressive perennial weeds, that could cause issues later. Also, be aware of what types of weeds. Annual wildflowers may be acceptable that will reseed next year. Mowing before seeds mature is always an option too. Remember that if there are significant weeds, they are taking advantage of a void in the turf. Find out why the turf is not growing as well and work on that issue. Improve the health of the grass to have less issues with some weeds.
Q: What is an unhealthy lawn? Grass that is not performing at a level that is normal for that turf. Not growing well, does not have appropriate color for the species, thinning out. The difficult part is figuring out why. Could be that that turf is not suited to the site, cultural practices are an issue, pest problem. We tend to manage turf too much. Take a more minimalistic approach and as needed for turf management instead of a scheduled maintenance plan.
Q: Fertilizer and pesticide inputs aside, can ornamental lawns provide environmental benefits such as carbon sequestration? Plants remove CO2 and supply O2. Turf areas can reduce temperatures, serve as erosion management and build soil. Also filtering some pollutants. Turfgrass also has huge potential to accumulate and store carbon. Turf has many recreational uses that other surfaces don’t offer and the overall aesthetics of a healthy lawn can improve value of the property.
Q: What is the best grass for Florida? You have to match the turf to an appropriate site and turfgrass may not be the best choice for a site. On an urban site, shade from trees will also dictate if turf is appropriate. The best grass for the back yard may not be the best suited for the front yard. Centipedegrass is a good selection for the case of a grass that grows well with low inputs. It will be a lighter shade of green which is its natural color. If you prefer to have inputs of fertilizer and water routinely, centipedegrass would not be the best choice. Zoysiagrass is more suited for those who desire a more magazine cover type lawn that is well manicured. A field type lawn is best with bahiagrass.
Q: Is zoysiagrass the fastest growing market for turfgrass? There are now good zoysiagrass varieties on the market and better ones coming along.
Zoysiagrass is a very drought tolerant species but it survives by going into dormancy. It survives without water by going from green to bluishgray to brown very quickly. In order to maintain a green, well manicured zoysiagrass lawn, irrigation input is needed.
Q: Can I grow a lawn from centipedegrass seed? How long will it take to fill in? It takes 3 years to establish a lawn from centipedgrass seeding. That is with minimal inputs but mowing is important in the establishment process. Dr. Unruh does not recommend seeding into patches because water needs for seed are higher than established grass. Sodding or plugging is better for patching spots.
Q: What is the best choice of grass for a partly shaded lawn/best under a large tree? Long term, you need a shade tolerant grass such as one of the St. Augustinegrasses or certain cultivars of zoysia (Palisades is one). As the tree grows over the years, grass may not remain suited for that location.
Q: What type of grass would you recommend for a meadow area that would be natural/unmowed? Bahiagrass is a good option.
Q: How do we encourage bee lawns? Centipedegrass flowers will attract some bees. Clovers (Red, white, hopclover) in the winter months through spring. Consider your space. May just be small sections or at the edge of the yard.
Q: How often should you aerate your lawn and what is the best method? Sandy soils can compact. Every other year aeration if you have traffic patterns from vehicles, play, or paths. Use a ½ tine with lots of holes back and forth over the lawn.
Q: How to maintain a healthy lawn in our hot and humid summers? Overwatering is common. Grass gives signs of needing water such as leaf blades folding in half, a color change, and grass not recovering after walking. Calibrate your system to apply ½ to ¾ inch at each time.
Q: How to measure water volume with an automatic irrigation system. In a zone, randomly place 10-15 straight edged cans that are all the same size. Run your system for a set time and see how much is in each can. You will be able to see where coverage is poor, just right, and overlapping too much. Measure with a ruler and average out the amount. Adjust your time to meet ½ to ¾ inch. Each zone is calibrated separately. Same for zoysiagrass but this grass will show you where your system is not functioning well since it’s response to drought is to go dormant. Still ½ to ¾ inch as needed.
Q: Do I have to fertilize and apply pesticides to have a healthy lawn? No. All plants need nutrition and fertilizer is just one source of nutrition. A good soil can provide sufficient levels of nutrients for the lawn. Sandy soils may need supplemental nutrients. Could be from compost incorporated in as well.
Q: My yard is a mix of grasses. Is this a problem for fertilizer and watering? You may need to fertilize differently depending on the needs of the various grasses. If a grass is growing into another, then it is favorable conditions for that grass – sunlight, mowing, water availability. You may have to manage for the one that is doing the best.
Q: Should I bag my mowing clippings for my Zoysia lawn or not? Generally the recommendation is to allow clipping to fall for a yard that is being routinely mowed. Blades will compost. The exception is with zoysia when thatch is becoming a problem or when you have neglected mowing for a period and clumps of clipping are piled on the lawn.
Q: Is weed control beneficial or harmful? Improperly used herbicides could have environmental impacts. Follow the label carefully. Manage weeds through cultural practices too.
Q: How do I get rid of crabgrass? Annual weed that germinates when soil temps reach 55 degrees F. Could be mid-January or a little later. Pre-emergent herbicides can help. Not many options for post emergent weed control. From Dr. Unruh: We do not recommend Weed and Feed products since timing is different for both. North Florida fertilizer applications should not occur before mid-April. 0-0-7 with pre-emergent would be the only exception. The 0-0-7 is just potassium.
Q: How to detect, kill and prevent ground pearls. There are no chemicals controls for ground pearls. Thinning out areas. Insects that are in the soil, with pearl stage attached to the roots. Females are hot pink and crawlers. Maybe something in the future. Try to outgrow ground pearls with faster growing grasses such as St. Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass.
Q: How do you control a heavy infestation of doveweed? Do not handpull. Annual weed that germinates later when soils reach 70 degrees F. Pre-emergent herbicides. Mow more often and manage irrigation. Improve drainage. Clean mowers too.
Q: Are there herbicides that will not harm birds? Insecticides have the biggest impact on wildlife compared to other types of pesticides. Many herbicides use a carrier that looks like a grain so water immediately according to label to move chemical off carrier. Follow the restrictions about application close to water. Read the label.
Q: Are all zoysia grasses hard to keep out of landscape beds? Establish a border with edging to block the growth. Must be buried and above grade as well.
Q: If we’ve lost most of our backyard due to killing off weeds with only some grass left, how’s the best way to start? For smaller spots, allow surrounding turf to run back into areas. Resodding areas or plugging new grass.
Q: Large sections of my front lawn died last summer and I diagnosed it as brown spot/large patch. How do I address? Why having large patch – poor drainage and fix that issue. Also zoysiagrass is susceptible to large patch. You can restablish grass but manage so conditions are not as suitable for the disease. Water as needed and nutrients only as needed.
Q: We have a lot of bald spots in our yard that we can’t seem to get rid of. Diagnosing is necessary – compaction, water issues, fertility problems. Loosen area and make sure water is able to move into soil. Then can reestablish grass.
Q: If your centipede lawn is spotty with a variety of weeds, would it be better to kill the whole thing off and sod with Zoysia? Centidegrass and zoysia have different pH requirements so may not be as simple as just replacing with new type of grass. Why is centipedegrass not doing well? Soil testing and cultural practice evaluation before considering to replace grass. Current centipedegrass may just need different care to thrive.
Q: What is the best alternative to turf grass? Perennial peanut is an option as a vegetative cover. It does freeze back in many spots of North Florida. It does creep and there are many cultivars. Edging is necessary. Sunshine mimosa is an option but it also freezes back. Lyre leaved sage for shady areas.
Silkgrass for drier areas. Frogfruit for moist areas
Final thoughts from Dr. Unruh Shut the irrigation off. Most people tend to overwater. Back off inputs to as needed instead of a schedule. A few weeds are ok for most home lawns and lawns can still be attractive.
I remember going into a neighborhood to diagnose a lawn problem in Crestview during spring a number of years ago. The centipedegrass lawn was in a state of decline. This was the front yard of the original model home for the neighborhood. The original owner sold the house and moved. The new owner, not familiar with North Florida lawns, was dissatisfied with the condition of his front yard.
All of the residents in this neighborhood were new to Florida.
At the time of my visit, the neighborhood was approximately ten-years-old. The original owner of the home was new to Florida, as well. He had only lived in the home for about two years before selling the house and moving to another state.
The original homeowner purchased the model home when the neighborhood was new and became the neighborhood lawn guru.
Imagine this situation… the entire neighborhood was new, everyone living in the neighborhood was new to Florida, not having a clue how to correctly maintain their new centipedegrass lawns.
Centipedegrass decline. Credit: Larry Williams
A sure way to kill a centipedegrass lawn is to be a little heavy handed with nitrogen. The natural color of a healthy centipedegrass lawn is light green, almost a crabapple green. The original homeowner was fertilizing his lawn as if it were a bermudagrass or fescuegrass lawn. Centipedegrass will not put up with this. As a result of “overdosing” his lawn with nitrogen, the lawn took on an unnatural dark green color. Short-term (two to three years), centipedegrass will appear to respond nicely to too much nitrogen. But after several years, irregular areas within a centipedegrass lawn will turn bright yellow in spring, followed by turning brown and dying back to bare ground as a result of too much nitrogen. The condition is called centipedegrass decline.
Healthy centipedegrass lawn with correct light green color. Credit: Dr. Bryan Unruh
I heard a minister ask the question, “Does the person you’re following know where he is going?” This was in reference to a parable found in the Bible in Matthew 15:14 where Jesus stated, “If the blind lead the blind, both will fall into a ditch.” This expression has many implications but basically is a caution about the dangers of following a leader who is clueless.
Unfortunately, this self-appointed lawn guru was clueless as to how to correctly manage a centipedegrass lawn. A few years following his overdoing it with fertilizer and then moving, his former lawn began to die in patches, progressively followed by other neighborhood lawns doing the same, almost like a domino effect. Who you choose to follow is important.
I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but it’s been hot outside. Like really, scorching, hellacious, dog days hot. In this weather pattern we’ve been in, it’s hard to make yourself do non-essential stuff outside that doesn’t involve swimming and so our gardens go by the wayside. In my opinion, that’s totally okay! Give yourself a rest from the garden and landscape chores for the next couple of weeks and get your fall gameplan ready. The following are some things to think about over the next few weeks to prepare yourself for the coming cooler weather!
Soil testing in centipedegrass. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
Get your soil tested. If you’re an in-ground vegetable gardener or just like to have an attractive lawn/landscape, performing a simple soil test can offer either peace of mind that your soil’s pH and fertility is good or give you a nudge to schedule some needed amendments. Though I don’t recommend fertilizing lawn grass this late and there’s no need to fertilize the garden before it gets planted in mid-late September, you can certainly begin to source and price fertilizer for the appropriate time based on your test results. However, now IS the perfect time to get lime out in a vegetable garden if your pH has sunk beneath the recommended 6.5. Lime takes weeks to months to begin to alter soil chemistry so the sooner the better if it is needed!
Order seeds. While I love to support local farm stores and plant nurseries, you are limited with the vegetable and flower varieties you can plant by what they have in stock. I enjoy trying new/improved and heirloom plant varieties each year and, most of the time, these can only be found by ordering online. For the latest in vegetable and cut flower varieties with a nice mix of heirloom cultivars thrown in also, I can recommend Johnny’s Selected Seeds, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, and other similar purveyors – all of these are great places to look. Continue to purchase your more common standbys through local outlets but, this year get different and try new things by ordering online!
Develop a garden/landscape plan. I doubt there’s a gardener amongst us who wouldn’t like to rearrange things a bit outside. Maybe you planted your lettuce a little too closely together last year, you’ve been dreaming of installing a new flower bed, or you really want to do a full garden/landscape renovation. The best way to be successful at any of these things is to get outside (or at least look out from behind a window in the A/C), take stock of what is already there, the space that is or might be available, research what plants or varieties might do well in your yard/garden (your local UF/IFAS Extension office is a great resource for this), and begin to sketch your ideas out. This planning step WILL save you time and money by ensuring you don’t purchase too many plants, by picking plants that will do well, and ensuring you install everything at the correct time.
So, take advantage of the heat, stay inside, and work up your garden gameplan together this August – fall is just around the corner. For help with soil testing, recommendations on plant varieties to purchase, or working up a garden/landscape plan tailored to you, contact your local UF/IFAS County Extension Office. Stay cool and happy gardening!
