by Larry Williams | Oct 21, 2013
I tried growing Brussels sprouts for the first time a few years ago. I enjoy vegetable gardening and thought I’d try something a little different. To be honest, I wasn’t too happy with the results – nothing like starting an article on a positive note.
Actually, I don’t think I did too badly but overall I couldn’t decide if the results were worth the effort. Before I completely discourage you from trying this vegetable in your garden, I better give you some of the positives.
They are considered fairly easy to grow. They require about the same growing conditions and care as cabbage. Technically they are a type of cabbage. But instead of forming one large head, as cabbages do, they form many tiny heads along their tall stems. The round vegetable sprouts are about the size of walnuts. Each sprout resembles a miniature head of cabbage, with its layers of tightly packed leaves and central core.
Brussels sprouts are considered a cool season crop. They require cool weather for best growth. They should be grown in the winter garden in Florida. Now is a good time to plant this crop. If they are grown when temperatures are warm, the sprouts tend to be soft and open rather than solid and tightly packed.
Brussels sprouts can be started from seeds or small plants. But it may be hard to find plants for starting. Seeds can be planted directly in the garden or germinated in flats. If you start seeds in flats, plant about 25 seeds to a foot of bed and cover them with about half an inch of soil. When seedlings emerge, thin them to about an inch apart. They’re ready to plant in the garden when they’re about three or four weeks old. Plant them 30 inches apart in rows that are three feet wide.
Follow good gardening practices in watering, fertilizing and monitoring for pests.
Your sprouts are ready to harvest when they reach walnut size and feel firm. Usually, the first sprouts, near the bottom of each plant, are ready within three months. Don’t leave them on the plant too long or they’ll become yellow and tough.
Brussels Sprout Plant
Photo Credit: UF/IFAS Extension
If you have space in your garden to devote to one crop for a minimum of three months (I left mine in the garden for five months), you might do okay with Brussels sprouts. Keep in mind they will still be producing in spring when it’s time to start planting your spring garden. The length of time it took to get a decent amount of Brussels sprouts was probably what I disliked the most about this crop.
by Eddie Powell | Sep 9, 2013
Garde and landscape edibles: Image Credit Eddie Powell
Vegetable garden placement is a crucial part of the garden planning process because proper site selection will be a determining factor in its success. Below are a few tips to assist in the placement process.
- The garden should be placed in a convenient location near the house so it will be easier to tend. It also needs to be located near a good water source
- The gardener should determine how well drained the soil is in the area and make sure that the soil is not compacted
- If it is compacted, the gardener will need to add an extra step: Tilling will be needed to lessen the compaction of the soil and help the plants’ root zone reach out into the soil to get necessary nutrients
- The garden needs to be located in an area that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight daily
- Vegetable plants may be placed in the landscape with ornamental plants
- Sites along coastal areas are also suitable places for gardens
Fall Turnips: Image Credit Eddie Powell
- When possible, rotate the placement of specific vegetables from place to place to prevent soil diseases and other pests of specific crops from becoming established
- Develop a vegetable garden plan which includes the plant names, their location, and the dates they were planted
- Consult your local UF / IFAS Extension office to obtain the Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide, which lists specific planting dates, row spacing and preference of direct seeding or transplanting for most crops
- If direct seeding the garden, start seeds 4 to 6 weeks before planting date to allow time for them to grow before transplanting.
by Matthew Orwat | Aug 19, 2013
Cercospora in Pepper
Image Credit Matthew Orwat
This summer’s rainy and humid weather has created a perfect environment for the proliferation of a variety of fungal diseases. In particular, Cercospora is a genus of fungus of which there are over 1,200 different species. Because there are so many species of this fungus, many different plant species are affected including many garden vegetables and ornamentals.
Cercospora leaf spot in Pepper
Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Cercospora causes purple, brown or black spots on a variety of garden vegetables and ornamental shrubs. The spots usually include a grey dead area in the center and a yellow “halo” or “ring” surrounding the entire spot. This disease usually starts at the base and interior of the plant, where there is more moisture and less air circulation, and moves outward.
Severe Cercospora infections have the ability to defoliate entire plants within a season and kill garden annuals, such as pepper, within a season. On shrubs, turf and perennials, Cercospora ranges from minor annoyance to major disease depending on the resistance of the cultivar or species. Serious infections can kill some ornamentals, such as Indian Hawthorn or Rose, in three years.
Several methods exist to limit the spread and severity of Cercospora outbreaks. It is a good practice to remove all dead plants and leaf litter from the garden. If Cercosproa infection occurs, remove and dispose of dead plants and pick up all leaf litter from the garden immediately upon drop. This will limit the fungal spore’s ability to reproduce. Another preventative strategy is to reduce water splash on leaves. Splashing water spreads Cercospora spores and allows them to take hold on a leaf. Irrigate the vegetable garden or landscape with drip irrigation to avoid wet leaves. Additionally, irrigate in the morning, so plants will not remain wet overnight. Cercospora requires 16 hours of moisture to reproduce. Specifically, infection of Indian Hawthorn has proven to be reduced by switching from overhead to drip irrigation.
Cercospora Infection on Rose
Image Credit U-Scout (Mathews Paret)
If fungicides must be used, be sure to follow label directions since some products labeled for the home ornamental garden, such as Chlorothalonil, are not labeled for turf. Be sure to use fungicides with more than one mode of action, since resistance may develop if only one type of fungicide is used.
For more information, please consult the following UF / IFAS publications regarding Cercospora:
Also, contact your County Extension Office for additional assistance.
by Taylor Vandiver | Aug 12, 2013
Consumers worldwide are rediscovering the benefits of buying locally grown food. However, this notion is not necessarily new. Farmers have been making their freshly produced wares available at local locations for years.
So, why should anyone buy local? Local produce is considered fresher, tastier, and more nutritious. Studies have shown that fresh produce loses nutrients quickly during transportation. During the trip from harvest to dinner table, sugars in the plants turn to starches, plant cells shrink, and produce loses its vitality. Food grown in the local community was probably picked within the past day or two and, therefore, is much fresher. It is also good for the local economy.
Buying directly from family farms helps them stay in business. Less than 1% of Americans now claim farming as their primary occupation, which isn’t surprising considering that today’s farmer gets less than 10 cents of the retail food dollar. Local farmers who sell directly to consumers get full retail price for their produce. Buying local decreases the likelihood of urbanization and increases the diversity of produce available locally.
As the value of direct-marketed fruits and vegetables increases, selling farmland for development becomes less likely. Also, rural farming areas can serve as a habitat for many species of wildlife. Buying local produce proactively preserves the agricultural landscape. By supporting local farmers today, you can help ensure that there will be farms in your community tomorrow, that there will be a habitat for wildlife, and that future generations will have access to locally produced food.
How can you be involved in this resurging concept, you might ask? One of the many ways you can provide support, while gaining fresh produce, is to join a CSA. The term CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture. It involves one or more farmers, and many individuals or families, from a community who pledge financial support to a farm operation. The farmers and consumers share the risks and benefits of food production. Members are considered “share-holders” of the farm and they generally pledge in advance to cover the anticipated costs of the farm operation and farmer’s salary.
In return for their commitment, consumers receive “shares” or a regular portion of what has been harvested from the farm throughout the different growing seasons. There are risks associated with farming that affect both the farmer and the shareholder, including poor harvests due to unfavorable weather or pests. By selling directly to their community farmers receive better prices for their crops, gain some financial security, and are relieved of much of the burden of marketing. Members benefit because they receive a wide variety of fresh, local produce harvested at the peak of freshness and flavor. If you would like to find a CSA in your community you can visit the local harvest website.
There are numerous other opportunities to be involved in supporting local agricultural operations. A good place to start would be to make a visit to your local Extension office. The agents there can help point you in the right direction, whether you want to start your own farming operation or simply provide fresh produce for your home.
by | Aug 5, 2013
With all of the rainy weather Northwest Florida has been having this summer, plenty of excess yard debris is littering our yards. Don’t put it in the landfill, Compost It !
Compost Pile
Compost is used primarily in bed preparation to improve the soil and can even be used in preparing potting mixes. Partially composted material also can be used as mulch. And since homemade compost is free, it helps reduce the cost of gardening – which means more money left over to buy plants.
Returning these organic materials to the garden maintains natural biological cycles and is an ecologically sensible means of recycling organic waste. It is never very efficient nor environmentally friendly to pile up leaves and grass clippings in bags on the curb to be hauled away to rapidly filling landfills and then go out and buy peat moss that has been dug up and shipped in from Canada.
Build Your Own!
Compost piles should be located in a convenient, but out-of-the-way, location. A source of water nearby is helpful. Avoid locating the pile against fences or other structures made out of wood, because the constant moisture can cause decay. Make the pile about 3 feet wide by 3 feet deep by 3 feet wide to 5 by 5 by 5 in size. Anything smaller will not decompose as well, and larger piles are more difficult to work.
Although compost can be made just by stacking organic matter in a pile, most gardeners prefer to enclose the pile in a bin. There are a number of commercial bins on the market, or you can make your own very easily. A 15-foot-long piece of wire fencing material bent into a circle and fastened with a few pieces of wire is inexpensive, easy to build and works well. Avoid using untreated wood to build the bin, because that could lead to termite problems.
Commercial Bins Are Available
Compost can be created simply by piling up organic matter and allowing natural decomposition to take place (this is sometimes called passive composting). There is nothing really complicated about it, although using this method requires patience. Depending on circumstances, it may take six to 12 months for the organic matter to fully compost.
Typically, composting uses various techniques to speed up the natural breakdown of yard waste. It’s important to remember that raw organic material is converted into compost by the action of fungi and bacteria. In active composting, processes are set in place to make these organisms work faster and more efficiently.
These fungi and bacteria require adequate nitrogen, oxygen and moisture to decompose organic matter rapidly. The composting process attempts to provide these requirements, and the better those essentials are supplied, the faster the process will occur. Shredding or finely chopping materials also greatly speeds up the process.
As the microbes decompose the organic materials, temperatures within the pile may approach 160 degrees at the center. When properly done, this process produces a rich, earthy smell, not the bad odors many gardeners fear will occur. In addition, properly maintained compost piles will not attract and harbor vermin such as rats.
During Decomposition Compost Piles Get Very Warm
Try to include a variety of materials to encourage rapid decomposition. The more types of acceptable materials that are added the better the composting process.
Brown materials, such as brown leaves or chipped branches and stumps, are relatively low in nitrogen. Adding a commercial fertilizer or an organic fertilizer (such as blood meal) that contains nitrogen encourages rapid, thorough decomposition when these types of materials provide the bulk of what is being composted. A light sprinkling is applied over each 8- to 12-inch layer of organic matter as the pile is built.
If the pile is mostly green matter, turn it weekly to keep it loose and oxygenated.
Organic materials that can be used for composting include fallen leaves, grass clippings, shredded hedge clippings, raw vegetable and fruit trimmings, coffee grounds, dead houseplants and old flower arrangements. Manures, such as cow, horse, rabbit or poultry manures, make excellent additions to the compost and are relatively rich in nitrogen.
On the other hand, never put cooked foods, grease, meat, seafood scraps, fat or dog or cat droppings in the pile.
Oxygen is provided by enclosing the pile in a bin that has sides with a lot of ventilation openings, which allow air to move in and out. Turning the pile occasionally is labor intensive, but it ensures the pile is well aerated.
During dry weather it may be necessary to water the pile to maintain adequate moisture levels. Dry organic matter will not decompose. The pile should stay moist, but not constantly soggy. A pile that stays too wet does not contain enough oxygen and may produce sour odors. If this happens, turning the pile will correct the problem.
Water May Need to be Added During Dry Periods
As materials compost they lose more than half of their volume. When compost is ready for use, it should be dark brown and crumbly with much, or all, of the identity of the original material lost.
The Finished Product
The time it takes to finish varies depending on the materials used, how finely they were chopped and how well the appropriate moisture and oxygen levels were maintained. Two to six months is typical, but it can occur much faster. For more information, check out this great UF / IFAS publication on composting.
by Matthew Orwat | Jul 29, 2013
Announcing… an exciting local workshop coordinated and hosted by the FAMU State-Wide Small Farm Programs in collaboration with the Ekanlaunee Seed Exchange, Leon County Extension, and local small farmers
The 2013 Seed Workshop: Saving Seed, Saving Farms, Enabling Sustainability
Sunday, August 11, 2013 from 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM (EDT)
FAMU VITICULTURE & SMALL FRUIT RESEARCH CENTER
6505 Mahan Drive
Tallahassee, FL 32308
Sponsored by:
The 2013 Seed Workshop: Information Directly from FAMU
After 10 years of trying to work it out, FAMU is thrilled to be bringing the internationally-known US seed saving pioneer Ira Wallace of Southern Exposure Seed Exchange to Tallahassee to facilitate this capacity building workshop.
Image Credit: FAMU
The workshop will cover all kinds of seeds grown in the southeast region including greens, lettuce, eggplant, peppers, okra, peas, corn, cucumbers, melons, squash, herbs, beets, carrots, onions, parsnips, cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, etc.
During FAMU’s hands-on workshop with Ira on “The Seed” you will learn:
What Is Seed?
Why Seed Saving Matters
Getting Started with Seed Saving
Fundamentals of Good Seed Saving (crossers and selfers, how to promote good seed set, how to maintain your crop’s genetics, isolation, population size and roguing, etc.)
Controlling Pests and Diseases
Dry and Wet Fermentation Seed Processing
Simple Seed Cleaning Techniques
Storage Techniques
The Business of Growing Seed for Farm and Sale
If you have seed you are trying to save that’s not listed, let us know and we will try to cover it too.
Register by credit card or check at: http://theseedworkshop2013.eventbrite.com/
Registration includes an organic lunch. To reserve a lunch with your workshop seat, please register by 11:55 PM Wednesday 7 AUG. Late registrations will be accepted as space permits — through Eventbrite until 11:55 Friday 9 AUG, and at the door on Sunday 11 AUG — but lunch cannot be guaranteed.
For questions about the workshop or registration, contact: Dr Jennifer Taylor, FAMU StateWide Small Farm Programs/Cooperative Extension, at FAMU.Register@gmail.com
