by Beth Bolles | Jun 20, 2024
The May Gardening in the Panhandle Live focused on the various aspects of turfgrass care and species characteristics.
The panel included:
Dr. Bryan Unruh, UF IFAS Extension Turfgrass Science Professor
Sheila Dunning, UF IFAS Extension Commercial Horticulture Agent in Okaloosa County
Josh Criss, UF IFAS Extension Residential Horticulture Agent in Santa Rosa County
Daniel Leonard, UF IFAS Extension Horticulture Agent and Director in Calhoun County
Q: Does No Mow March cause more problems in maintaining a good lawn?
Pay attention to what you are leaving behind. If you have aggressive perennial weeds, that could cause issues later. Also, be aware of what types of weeds. Annual wildflowers may be acceptable that will reseed next year. Mowing before seeds mature is always an option too.
Remember that if there are significant weeds, they are taking advantage of a void in the turf. Find out why the turf is not growing as well and work on that issue. Improve the health of the grass to have less issues with some weeds.
References: https://apnews.com/article/gardening-no-mow-may-lawns-6aa1669b9e9bb5b5d8ea671c44d186f2
Q: What is an unhealthy lawn?
Grass that is not performing at a level that is normal for that turf. Not growing well, does not have appropriate color for the species, thinning out. The difficult part is figuring out why. Could be that that turf is not suited to the site, cultural practices are an issue, pest problem.
We tend to manage turf too much. Take a more minimalistic approach and as needed for turf management instead of a scheduled maintenance plan.
Q: Fertilizer and pesticide inputs aside, can ornamental lawns provide environmental benefits such as carbon sequestration?
Plants remove CO2 and supply O2. Turf areas can reduce temperatures, serve as erosion management and build soil. Also filtering some pollutants. Turfgrass also has huge potential to accumulate and store carbon. Turf has many recreational uses that other surfaces don’t offer and the overall aesthetics of a healthy lawn can improve value of the property.
References: Turf Management to Protect the Environment, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2ajI-t4EoY
Q: What is the best grass for Florida?
You have to match the turf to an appropriate site and turfgrass may not be the best choice for a site. On an urban site, shade from trees will also dictate if turf is appropriate. The best grass for the back yard may not be the best suited for the front yard.
Centipedegrass is a good selection for the case of a grass that grows well with low inputs. It will be a lighter shade of green which is its natural color.
If you prefer to have inputs of fertilizer and water routinely, centipedegrass would not be the best choice. Zoysiagrass is more suited for those who desire a more magazine cover type lawn that is well manicured.
A field type lawn is best with bahiagrass.
Q: Is zoysiagrass the fastest growing market for turfgrass?
There are now good zoysiagrass varieties on the market and better ones coming along.
Zoysiagrass is a very drought tolerant species but it survives by going into dormancy. It survives without water by going from green to bluishgray to brown very quickly. In order to maintain a green, well manicured zoysiagrass lawn, irrigation input is needed.
Q: Can I grow a lawn from centipedegrass seed? How long will it take to fill in?
It takes 3 years to establish a lawn from centipedgrass seeding. That is with minimal inputs but mowing is important in the establishment process.
Dr. Unruh does not recommend seeding into patches because water needs for seed are higher than established grass. Sodding or plugging is better for patching spots.
Q: What is the best choice of grass for a partly shaded lawn/best under a large tree?
Long term, you need a shade tolerant grass such as one of the St. Augustinegrasses or certain cultivars of zoysia (Palisades is one). As the tree grows over the years, grass may not remain suited for that location.
Q: What type of grass would you recommend for a meadow area that would be natural/unmowed?
Bahiagrass is a good option.
Q: How do we encourage bee lawns?
Centipedegrass flowers will attract some bees. Clovers (Red, white, hopclover) in the winter months through spring. Consider your space. May just be small sections or at the edge of the yard.
Q: How often should you aerate your lawn and what is the best method?
Sandy soils can compact. Every other year aeration if you have traffic patterns from vehicles, play, or paths. Use a ½ tine with lots of holes back and forth over the lawn.
Q: How to maintain a healthy lawn in our hot and humid summers?
Overwatering is common. Grass gives signs of needing water such as leaf blades folding in half, a color change, and grass not recovering after walking. Calibrate your system to apply ½ to ¾ inch at each time.
References: Mowing Your Florida Lawn, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/LH028
Q: How to measure water volume with an automatic irrigation system.
In a zone, randomly place 10-15 straight edged cans that are all the same size. Run your system for a set time and see how much is in each can. You will be able to see where coverage is poor, just right, and overlapping too much. Measure with a ruler and average out the amount. Adjust your time to meet ½ to ¾ inch.
Each zone is calibrated separately.
Same for zoysiagrass but this grass will show you where your system is not functioning well since it’s response to drought is to go dormant. Still ½ to ¾ inch as needed.
References: Watering Your Florida Lawn, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/LH025
Calibrating Your Sprinkler System, https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/irrigation/calibrating-your-irrigation-system/
Q: Do I have to fertilize and apply pesticides to have a healthy lawn?
No. All plants need nutrition and fertilizer is just one source of nutrition. A good soil can provide sufficient levels of nutrients for the lawn. Sandy soils may need supplemental nutrients. Could be from compost incorporated in as well.
References: The Florida Fertilizer Label, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/SS170
Q: My yard is a mix of grasses. Is this a problem for fertilizer and watering?
You may need to fertilize differently depending on the needs of the various grasses. If a grass is growing into another, then it is favorable conditions for that grass – sunlight, mowing, water availability. You may have to manage for the one that is doing the best.
Q: Should I bag my mowing clippings for my Zoysia lawn or not?
Generally the recommendation is to allow clipping to fall for a yard that is being routinely mowed. Blades will compost. The exception is with zoysia when thatch is becoming a problem or when you have neglected mowing for a period and clumps of clipping are piled on the lawn.
References: Zoysiagrass for Lawns, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/LH011
Q: Is weed control beneficial or harmful?
Improperly used herbicides could have environmental impacts. Follow the label carefully. Manage weeds through cultural practices too.
Q: How do I get rid of crabgrass?
Annual weed that germinates when soil temps reach 55 degrees F. Could be mid-January or a little later. Pre-emergent herbicides can help. Not many options for post emergent weed control.
From Dr. Unruh: We do not recommend Weed and Feed products since timing is different for both. North Florida fertilizer applications should not occur before mid-April.
0-0-7 with pre-emergent would be the only exception. The 0-0-7 is just potassium.
Q: How to detect, kill and prevent ground pearls.
There are no chemicals controls for ground pearls. Thinning out areas. Insects that are in the soil, with pearl stage attached to the roots. Females are hot pink and crawlers.
Maybe something in the future. Try to outgrow ground pearls with faster growing grasses such as St. Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass.
Q: How do you control a heavy infestation of doveweed?
Do not handpull. Annual weed that germinates later when soils reach 70 degrees F. Pre-emergent herbicides. Mow more often and manage irrigation. Improve drainage. Clean mowers too.
Q: Are there herbicides that will not harm birds?
Insecticides have the biggest impact on wildlife compared to other types of pesticides. Many herbicides use a carrier that looks like a grain so water immediately according to label to move chemical off carrier. Follow the restrictions about application close to water. Read the label.
Q: Are all zoysia grasses hard to keep out of landscape beds?
Establish a border with edging to block the growth. Must be buried and above grade as well.
Q: If we’ve lost most of our backyard due to killing off weeds with only some grass left, how’s the best way to start?
For smaller spots, allow surrounding turf to run back into areas. Resodding areas or plugging new grass.
Q: Large sections of my front lawn died last summer and I diagnosed it as brown spot/large patch. How do I address?
Why having large patch – poor drainage and fix that issue. Also zoysiagrass is susceptible to large patch. You can restablish grass but manage so conditions are not as suitable for the disease. Water as needed and nutrients only as needed.
Q: We have a lot of bald spots in our yard that we can’t seem to get rid of.
Diagnosing is necessary – compaction, water issues, fertility problems. Loosen area and make sure water is able to move into soil. Then can reestablish grass.
Q: If your centipede lawn is spotty with a variety of weeds, would it be better to kill the whole thing off and sod with Zoysia?
Centidegrass and zoysia have different pH requirements so may not be as simple as just replacing with new type of grass. Why is centipedegrass not doing well? Soil testing and cultural practice evaluation before considering to replace grass. Current centipedegrass may just need different care to thrive.
Q: What is the best alternative to turf grass?
Perennial peanut is an option as a vegetative cover. It does freeze back in many spots of North Florida. It does creep and there are many cultivars. Edging is necessary.
Sunshine mimosa is an option but it also freezes back. Lyre leaved sage for shady areas.
Silkgrass for drier areas.
Frogfruit for moist areas
Final thoughts from Dr. Unruh
Shut the irrigation off. Most people tend to overwater. Back off inputs to as needed instead of a schedule. A few weeds are ok for most home lawns and lawns can still be attractive.
by Julie McConnell | Jun 14, 2024
by Mark Mauldin
Calling all watermelon producers; commercial growers to gardeners. It’s almost time to enter your finest melons in the Big Melon Contest at the Panhandle Watermelon Festival. The festival and the contest
have been summer-time staples in the Central Panhandle for decades. Don’t miss your opportunity to showcase the delicious product of your hard work and have a chance to win prize money.
To make the contest fun for growers of all types of watermelons, contest classes will be broken out by varieties*. The heaviest melon in the class wins. Winners of each class will receive $50, and first runner-up $25. In addition to the classes, there will be a $300 grand prize paid for the overall heaviest melon in the contest, and $250 for the first runner-up.
There is no cost to enter a melon in the contest. However, melons entered in the contest are donated to the festival and will be sold via auction. Proceeds of the auction will go to help off-set the costs of next year’s festival. All contest melons will be on display during the festival and their variety, weight, and grower will be announced during the auction.
The 2024 Panhandle Watermelon Festival will be Friday June 21st and Saturday June 22nd, in Chipley, Florida. The Friday night concert festivities will be held at Jim Trawick Park and Saturday’s events (including the melon auction) will be at the Washington County Ag Center. The auction will begin at 12:00 noon on Saturday.
Melons being entered in the contest will need to be delivered to the Washington County Ag Center prior to the festival. Melons will be received and weighed-in at the Ag Center Wednesday 6/19 between 8:00 AM and 4:00 PM, and Thursday 6/20 between 8:00 AM and 7:00 PM central time. If you have melons that you would like to enter in the contest, but are unable to deliver during the specified times, contact Mark Mauldin prior to 6/19 to make arrangements. Pick-up may be possible, to the extent practical, provided arrangements are made in advance.
The Washington County Ag Center is located at 1424 Jackson Ave. Chipley, FL 32428.
If you have any questions regarding the contest, contact Mark Mauldin at the UF/IFAS Extension, Washington County Office (850-638-6180 or mdm83@ufl.edu).
Contest melons on display at the Panhandle Watermelon Festival in Chipley, FL.
*Note: Prizes will be paid for no more than 16 total classes. There must be a minimum of 2 entries of the same variety for the variety to have its own class. If there are more than 15 different varieties with enough entries to constitute a class, the 15 with the most entries will be used (ties will be broken by number of entrants). All melons not in a variety class will be grouped together with one winner and first runner up being selected from the group.
by Daniel J. Leonard | Jun 13, 2024
For those of us that don’t have the best landscape conditions or the time, money, or inclination to invest into a vibrant yard display of annual flowers, growing our flowers in containers is a great option! Growing in containers has several advantages over growing flowers in the ground. It gives gardeners control over the soil, fertility, and water conditions that the plants are grown in and the ability to add pops of color/texture anywhere – in an existing planting bed, patio, deck, porch, or even indoors. Let’s explore some simple tips to create containers that will offer low-maintenance explosions of color all summer long.
The easiest way to create full, colorful containers is by using the design scheme known as the “thriller, filler, spiller” arrangement. This design first utilizes a dramatic “thriller” in the back of the container, usually a plant that has a taller, upright growth habit and striking flowers or foliage. Commonly used thrillers are plants like Purple Fountain Grass, Salvia, Canna, and Hawaiian Ti. Next come the fillers. Fillers are plants that possess a mounding habit and generally provide the floral firepower in the container. Popular fillers include Vinca, Begonia, ‘Diamond Frost’ Euphorbia, Lantana, Pentas, Impatiens (for shady containers), and even foliage plants like Coleus, Caladiums, and Ferns. Finally, spillers round out the containers by “spilling” over the sides. These are typically vining or trailing plants and add a final dramatic touch to the overall container style. Some of my most-used spiller plants are Creeping Jenny, ‘Silver Falls’ Dichondra, ‘Gold Dust’ Mecardonia, Torenia (aka Wishbone Flower), and Sweet Potato Vine.
Example container using a thriller (Purple Fountain Grass), filler (Celosia), and spiller (‘Silver Falls’ Dichondra). Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
Will all those plant options, how does one choose plants to combine in containers? When perusing the nursery to pick thriller, filler, and spiller plants, all you need to remember to be successful is the basic layout of the color wheel and the phrase “right plant, right place”. Knowing the color wheel is important because some colors look better than others in combination! For instance, most classic color combos are known as “contrasting colors”, just meaning opposite each other on the color wheel – think the Orange and Blue of the Florida Gators or the Purple and Gold of the LSU Tigers. It’s hard to go wrong pairing plants of contrasting foliage or flower colors. Another option is to use different shades or hues of the same color, this is known as a monochromatic color arrangement. Monochromatic arrangements create a stunning punch of color and can even be used to highlight colors or features around the container, like the brick or siding color of your home.
After choosing your color palette, it’s critical to make sure you have the right plant in the right place. For container gardening, this just means pairing plants with like needs. For instance, you wouldn’t want to grow shade loving Impatiens in the same container as sun loving Purple Fountain Grass. Likewise, pairing a succulent with a heavy water user like Coleus is a bad idea. Combine plants with like growing condition preferences and you’ll save yourself a major gardening headache!
Maintaining your summer containers is also relatively easy. At planting, fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote or other similar product at the label rate and water in. After the first month or so, I begin supplemental fertilizing every couple of weeks with a liquid fertilizer. As your container grows, the days get hotter, and there are more roots to suck up water, your watering frequency will increase from once every couple of days to every day, and, on very hot days, twice a day (morning and late afternoon/evening). All this watering and fertilizing sounds like a lot of work, but I enjoy getting out and spending a few minutes with my plants! It’s a great way to start your day/wind down after work and allows you to spot any issues before they become major problems!
Gardening with containers is without a doubt the easiest way to create summer long color on your deck, patio, or landscape. Giving us the ability to control soil, water, sun, and fertilizer conditions, growing our annual color in containers removes many of the variables that makes gardening difficult and provides pops of color and texture in any setting – design and plant a few containers this summer! For more questions about container gardening or any other horticultural topic, contact us at the UF/IFAS Calhoun County Extension office. Happy gardening this summer!
by Sheila Dunning | Jun 13, 2024
You may recognize the arrival of summer because of the intense buzzing sound coming from the trees. It can last all day long, with changes in the pitch and pattern of the screaming.
Dusk-calling cicada, Tibicen auletes (Germar). Total length (head to tips of forewings) is 64 mm (about 2 1/2 inches). Photograph by Lyle J. Buss, University of Florida.
Cicadas are large (3/4” – 2 ½”) winged insects with stocky bodies and bulging eyes. They spend the vast majority of their lives underground, emerging in massive numbers for just a few weeks to mate and lay eggs. This behavior often earns them the name “locusts,” which entomologically they are not.
In much of the eastern United States, periodical cicada (Magicicada spp.) broods rise up out of the ground every 13 or 17 years. In the summer of 2024, two different broods (one group of 13-year cicadas and one group of 17-year cicadas) will arrive at the same time across 16 states. The closest to us will be mid-lower Alabama. Approximately one trillion insects are anticipated. This only happens once every 221 years.
By emerging in large numbers, the cicadas are able to reduce the potential of being eaten by predators. Though many will be lost to birds and killer wasps, enough will survive to be able to reproduce.
Unlike the broods of periodical cicadas, populations of Florida’s 19 cicada species produce adults every year. However, the nymphs still spend several years developing underground. The nymphs use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to feed on the xylem sap in the roots of trees. The feeding can weaken already stressed trees. Most trees tolerate the damage quite well. After gaining enough nutrients, the nymphs wait for the soil to warm enough (approximately 64° F. at six inches deep) before crawling out of the ground, climbing up the tree trunk, and molting into adults with wings. You can often find the empty shed exoskeleton still hanging on the tree trunk.
The adult male spends all day being as loud as possible in order to attract the girls. Each species has its own song. Large numbers of insects create more noise. Male cicadas have a pair of tymbals located on the sides of their abdomen. Tymbals are corrugated regions of the cicada’s exoskeleton that can be vibrated so rapidly that the clicking sound becomes a high-pitched buzz. Cicadas with the best abs get the girls and reminds all the humans that summer is here.
To learn more about cicadas and train your ears to the different species call go to: https://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/misc/bugs/cicadas.htm
Cicada (Tibicen sp.) escaping its nymphal skeleton. The cast skeleton will remain attached to the tree. Once free, the adult will expand its wings, darken, and fly away. Photograph by Lyle J. Buss, University of Florida.
by Joshua Criss | Jun 13, 2024
Understanding soil composition is crucial for successful gardening. Soil is the slow interaction of parent material with regional climates, topography, and soil biota over millennia. The breakdown of parent materials results in layers of material called horizons. A subset of soil science is dedicated naming soils with similar horizon development. In North Florida, three of these soil types predominate. Near the northern border, we find ultisols, these sandy soils have a higher clay content and are suitable for row crops with proper management. Through the center of the Panhandle counties, you’ll find entisols. These are sandy and undeveloped, thus requiring close attention to irrigation and fertilization. Finally, by the coast are spodisols rife with mineral pockets and known for being waterlogged. All are usable for plant growth, and with little knowledge of cultural practices can make your landscape thrive.
Soil horizons of ultisols
Photo: USDA/NRCS
The Panhandle Parent Material
In Florida’s panhandle, the parent material stems from the Citronelle formation transitioning into the Miccosukee formation around Gadsden County. The Citronelle formation consists of unconsolidated quartz (sand), gravel, clay, and mineral deposits from rock formations in the Appalachian Mountains. Clay associated with this formation is the basis for the ultisol concentrations in the northern portion of the state. Alluvial flow or deposits left by rivers washes the sandier particles down into the center portions of the panhandle, and siltier particles flowing to the coast depositing minerals as they settle. The Miccosukee formation is similar but has different textures and particle sizes in the quartz deposits. Knowing where your soils originate will help you understand two major aspects with regard to soil’s physical properties. Those being texture and aggregation.
Soil Texture
Soil, a blend of sand, silt, and clay, is not just the ground you walk on but the very foundation of your garden. These components, deposited in your location through natural processes (as outlined above), have been blended to create a soil unique to your garden. Sand is the largest of these particles, with silt considerably smaller and clay smaller still. This size difference, means there will be air spaces known as pore space within what appears to be a consistent material. These spaces comprise approximately 45% minerals, 25% air, 25% water, and 5% organic matter. Higher sand soils have larger pore spaces which facilitates water flow through that soil profile. What that means for your soil is less water holding capacity and higher losses of nutrients. In contrast, higher clay percentages have smaller pore spaces which coupled with charges at the atomic level are better at holding onto water and nutrients. Understanding your soil texture is key to determining the right timing for irrigation and fertilization while providing insight as to potential aggregation of your soils.
Soil Texture Triangle
Photo: USDA
Aggregation
Soil structure is an often overlooked aspect of garden management. Well structured soils resist compaction, hold on to water, and retain plant nutrients. They also provide growth space for roots which have access to the resources they need to fuel healthy plants. Conversely, poor soil structure makes your garden more susceptible to ponding and inhibited plant growth. Soil aggregation is what provides this structure. Aggregation is the conglomeration of soil particles bound through chemical bonds and physical forces bolstered by soil biota. Aggregates form through a few mechanisms both inherent and dynamic. Inherent factors include clay content which form and break with changing moisture levels. Other inherent factors include those minerals inherently present in the soil such as calcium. Dynamic factors include levels of organic matter, and those fauna present in that soil.
Types of soil structures
credit: USDA/NRCS
Maintaining Healthy Physical Structures
Many Florida soils are poorly structured which is why they need to be properly managed for homeowners to have successful gardens. Before you can begin to improve your soil, you must understand your soil’s story. Start with testing for compaction by pressing a screwdriver into the ground. If this is difficult, you need to take action to relieve the situation and increase the availability of air in your root zone. Tillage is a good way to do so, but be wary as excessive tilling can lead to higher compaction problems long term. Look into conservation tillage as a methodology to avoid this problem. Perform a jar test to understand the texture of your soil and thus its propensity to develop aggregates. For high sand soils, add organic matter to improve structure. Be careful to add smaller amounts at a time as organic matter has an inherent nutrition load and too much may begin to limit nutrients. Cover crop strategies are a great way to add organic matter while keeping soil covered during non-active growth periods.
Soil improvement and management will take multiple growing seasons. Stick to it and monitor your soil to keep your gardens healthy and thriving. For more information on soil, see these Ask IFAS documents, or contact your local extension agent for additional information on this and any topic regarding your gardens and more.
