Last month, we experienced historic snowfall throughout the Panhandle. During these magical snow days, I noticed that I had to refill my bird feeder faster than expected. Even as snow fell, birds flocked to the feeder all day long.
UF/IFAS Photo by Cristina Carrizosa
In winter, birds rely more on bird feeders because many plants are dormant and aren’t producing food. Insects are also less abundant during the colder months. (Read about where they go here: Where Do Insects Go in the Winter?). Growing native plants in your landscape can help provide extra food sources for birds and habitat for overwintering insects. However, long periods of freezing temperatures, like those we experienced last month and in December of 2022, can damage natural food sources and make it even harder for birds to find food.
Consider supporting your local and migrating bird populations this winter by putting out a bird feeder. In return, expect a colorful show you can enjoy in your own yard! Here are some recommendations for success:
Different birds are attracted to different types of food and have different feeding habits. To reduce mess, look for seed mixes that don’t contain milo, oats, and red millet, often labeled “no mess”. These seeds are less desirable to birds and often end up scattered on the ground, which can attract rodents. Uneaten millet seeds can sprout and grow under bird feeders.
Millet growing under bird feeder from uneaten seed.
Pine cone bird feeder
Suet is an excellent choice for winter feeding because it’s a high-protein, high-energy food source for birds. You can buy suet at the store or make your own using this recipe: DIY Suet Recipe. Another fun, homemade option is the classic pinecone bird feeder made with peanut butter or lard. This kid-friendly activity can be found here: Pinecone Bird Feeder
It’s important to clean your feeders every two to three weeks to prevent the spread of diseases, get rid of moldy seeds, and keep the birds healthy. Most bird feeders can be cleaned with a 10% bleach solution, while wooden feeders are best cleaned with hot, soapy water. Sugar water in hummingbird feeders should be changed every 3-5 days or more frequently if they’re in direct sunlight or hot weather. Don’t forget to wash your hands after cleaning or refilling your bird feeder!
The best way to support your local birds is by planting native plants and providing a safe habitat in your yard. Native plants produce food and attract insects that birds feed on, helping them thrive year-round. When food is scarce, bird feeders can be an important supplement, but regular cleaning is essential to maintain bird health.
For more detailed information on feeder selection, food types, and tips, visit: Bird Feeder Guide.
Kitchen and yard waste can be recycled into excellent soil amendments, reducing waste and saving money. Photo credit: UF IFAS Extension
When we turn the page into a new year, the motto is often “out with the old, in with the new.” But what if we actually kept the old and transformed it into something really useful? That’s exactly what happens with composting. Instead of raking up leaves, bagging them, and throwing them away, you can recycle them in a compost bin. The same goes for food waste—instead of throwing it in the trash, a significant percentage of our groceries can be repurposed. These in-house materials can produce your own high-quality potting soil and mulch, for free.
Compost bins should be located in an unobtrusive but convenient location. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension
So, where to start? Logistics are important. If a compost bin is inconvenient, you won’t use it. Locate bins in a regularly traversed part of your yard, so it’s easier to make dropping the kitchen waste into a bin part of your routine. If you’ve got space, you can use a counter-top compost container or just a second trash can to hold material until it goes outside. Compost bins should be fairly close to a water source in case you need to moisten the material.
The composting demonstration area at our Extension office includes several types of bins. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension
There are numerous types of bins, ranging from open-topped 3-sided wooden or concrete block piles, to hand-built bins with adjustable slats, or prefabricated plastic and metal bins and turners. If you have a lot of space, the open holding areas might work fine. But, in a neighborhood you may want a neater, more contained and covered bin.
Properly layered compost. Figure courtesy of Colorado State University Extension
The ingredients for compost are simple—you need “greens” and “browns”. “Greens” include fresh vegetables, fruit, eggshells, coffee grounds, lawn clippings, and other materials that contain nitrogen. These should be raw waste—if they’ve been cooked in oil or butter, they can go rancid in the pile, causing an odor and attracting unwanted wildlife. “Browns“ are carbon-rich materials that include dry leaves, straw, pine needles, and shredded uncolored paper. Besides oils, you’ll want to avoid meat and dairy products, dog/cat waste, and plants full of weedy seeds or recently treated with pesticides.
Finished compost can be used as a soil amendment or potting soil. Photo credit: IFAS Photography
This mix of green and brown materials provides a balance of carbon and nitrogen. You’ll layer the materials, green/brown/green/brown and add a bit of water. Once the compost starts “cooking,” microorganisms from the surrounding soil will start further breaking down the larger materials. These are the critters who put the decomposition in compost. Worms will often make their way in, adding their efforts to the material breakdown. There is a much more specific process of vermiculture (aka worm farming) if your primary interest is producing worms. Compost can take as long as you want it to—in the hot, humid Florida summers, with regular mixing you can produce compost from raw materials in as little as 2 months. In cooler weather or in passive composting, where you just dump it and leave it alone—it will take longer. Properly managed compost will not smell bad, so if there is an odor, add more “browns” or mix it. Ideas for troubleshooting compost bins can be found in Table 3 of the UF publication, “Compost Tips for the Home Gardener.”
For more information and great detail on both composting and vermiculture, check out the recorded webinar on YouTube our horticulture team hosted in October.
While palms may survive, or even thrive, for years in climates cooler than those to which they are native, eventually they may experience temperatures cold enough to cause injury. The January 21st snow and wind chill is likely to take a toll on many of the palms in Northwest Florida. We have experience with this since it also happened in January 2014 and December of 2022. Unfortunately, much of the damage in 2014 was not evident for 18-24 months and we are not out of the window for 2022. Healthy palms can hold on with stored food reserves, but repeated events can continue to weaken them. When cold damage is severe, plant tissues are destroyed and water uptake into the plant may be reduced for years. Many times, it is only the protected bud that will remain alive. These palms can still be saved if the bud remains alive. Winter is not over, even though the temperatures are now creeping higher and higher. So, evaluate what damage you may already have and prepare for any additional, yet to come. Here’s a reminder of what to do.
One of the most common problems associated with freezes is that the freeze-killed lower portion of the spear leaf is degraded by secondary fungi and bacteria that are always present in our natural environment. Palm owners are often anxious to trim off the damaged leaves following a cold weather event. Avoid the temptation to remove these fronds until danger of additional freezes has passed. Even dead leaves provide insulation to the critical bud. As the weather warms, the dead fronds need to be removed from around the bud so that the spear can begin to dry out. Drenching the bud area with a copper fungicide will reduce the secondary microbes. Repeat applications will need to continue as the palm leaves develop. Copper fungicides, unlike other fungicides, are active against bacteria and fungi. Be cautious to not use a copper nutrient spray rather than a fungicide. Delay fertilizer application until new fronds have developed. The best analysis for palms is 8-2-12 + 4Mg. Utilization of proper palm fertilization can improve cold hardiness of palms.
Palm trunk decay appeared 2 years after 2014 freeze.
Palms damaged by cold can still show symptoms six months to three years following a freeze. New leaves in the spring may appear misshapen. Usually, the palm will outgrow the damage. However, sometimes the palm loses its ability to take up water. If there is a sudden collapse of the fronds in the crown during the first hot days, the palm may die. There is nothing that can be done to save the palm.
Planting annuals is a great way to add color and texture to the landscape. Annuals can provide an added visual component to the garden regardless of if they’re planted in the ground or in containers, or even better—both. An annual plant completes its life cycle (growing, flowering, seed set, and death) in a single growing season. Annuals can stay in good health and last longer if they are pruned back when they get leggy and by pinching off any fading flowers (deadheading). To help plan your garden beds and container plantings please click below to enlarge the image of the handy “North Florida Annual Planting Guide”. Please note the suggested planted dates in this guide are based on average monthly temperatures, but every year is different. Some years we may have a late frost around Easter, other years we won’t have a cold front after February.
The Borneo camphor tree (Dryobalanops aromatica) exhibits a perfect example of crown shyness. Photo from Wikimedia commons at the Kuala Lumpur Research Forest
I spent a lot of time in my childhood lying in our backyard hammock, reading. Inevitably, I’d take a break and stare up at the tree canopy above me. We had sweetgum trees in that corner of our yard, and I’d watch squirrels chasing each other through the branches. One thing I noticed, but never really investigated, was how the highest branches spread out towards each other from the clump of trees, yet didn’t touch or overlap each other. You could nearly always see gaps of sunlight outlining the individual trees.
The canopy of mature oak trees exhibiting crown shyness. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension
The term for this is “crown shyness.” As anthropomorphized as that seems, it’s an apt description for this seemingly polite growth pattern. The topmost branches of any given tree are in constant competition with each other for sunlight. Being photosynthesizers, sunlight is life. No growth can happen without the basic ingredients of sunlight, water, and carbon dioxide. So, from a tree’s perspective, there is an inherent disincentive to send growth beneath their own existing branches or those of an adjacent tree. The result of this is a botanical dance of sending branches out, neighboring trees doing the same, and multiple trees subtly angling for light. It’s like sharing an armrest on an airplane with a stranger. There’s a limited and highly desirable resource (the armrest), resulting in a (hopefully) gentle back and forth where someone either claims the space fully or you make an unspoken agreement to share it. If you do share it, it’s rare your arms touch; most of us want to keep some personal space!
Like Blue Angel jets in the diamond formation, trees will keep just a bit of sunlight between them and their neighbor. Photographed by Mass Communication Specialist 1st Class Ian Cotter. Official U.S. Navy Photograph.
While we may consciously shuffle for position in crowded public spaces, this happens for trees at a metabolic level. Evidence from an Argentinian study demonstrated that trees can “detect the presence of neighbors before being shaded by them,” using an internal sensor that detects light on the red:far red spectrum. This botanical spidey-sense comes from light-receptor proteins called phytochromes, which send out an alert that they’re close to another tree and may want to stop sending branches that direction. Growing into an adjacent tree quickly brings diminishing returns for absorbing sunlight, and it is in the tree’s best interest to keep a safe distance.
Single-species stands of pine trees exhibit crown shyness. Photo credit: Tyler Jones, UF IFAS
Crown shyness appears to be more pronounced in groves of same-species trees. Monocultures like pine plantations, or even large stands of black mangrove, exhibit the same growth patterns and timing, adapting to environmental factors the same way—particularly if they were planted or germinated at the same time. Foresters or ecologists trying to maximize the space for timber, fruit, or ecosystem restoration may want to deliberately encourage a diverse array of species, which fill in the gaps beneath the canopy and survive on less direct sunlight.
Maybe we could call it “crowd” shyness when people step back to give folks room to dance, avoiding “mechanical abrasion”! Photo credit: Cole Stevenson, University of the South
Another contributing factor to crown shyness, and perhaps one of the more crucial ones, is “mechanical abrasion.” University of Florida botanist Francis “Jack” Putz conducted research on this in Costa Rica back in the 80’s, which is still frequently cited in more recent publications. His team’s findings showed that crown shyness was “positively correlated with the distance pairs of trees adjacent to the gap swayed in the wind.” When tree branches physically bumped into one another on a regular basis, they kept their distance to prevent bud, bloom, and branch tip damage. For this scenario, imagine someone dancing enthusiastically in the middle of a big music festival—if there’s room, people will often spread out. The more the person flails, the more space you give them. If they’re just minimally swaying back and forth, you might stand closer. Putz, et. al observed this same principle in the coastal mangrove forests—more flexible branches adjacent to one another gave each other more space, while those with “stiff crowns” that couldn’t move much grew closer together.
When space opens up due to the loss of a neighboring tree or branch, the infusion of sunlight/fuel spurs a tree to send energy quickly to gain the advantage over adjacent trees. Tree species vary in their capability and success in doing this. An earlier article on pioneer species (the first to occupy a newly open space) and the process of succession sheds more light on this natural phenomenon. In a mature forest, the end result is a balanced mosaic of tree branches reaching out and nearly touching one another, but leaving each other space to grow.
