by Sheila Dunning | Sep 23, 2014
Photo Credit: Candy Butler, Floridata.com
Looking to add something to brighten your landscape this autumn? Firespike (Odontonema strictum) is a prolific fall bloomer with red tubular flowers that are very popular with hummingbirds and butterflies. Its glossy dark green leaves make an attractive large plant that will grow quite well in moderate shade to full sunlight. In frost-free areas firespike grows as an evergreen semi-woody shrub, spreading by underground sprouts and enlarging to form a thicket. In zones 8 and 9 it usually dies back to the ground in winter and resprouts in spring, producing strikingly beautiful 9-12 inch panicles of crimson flowers beginning at the end of summer and lasting into the winter each year. Firespike is native to open, semi-forested areas of Central America. It has escaped cultivation and become established in disturbed hammocks throughout peninsular Florida, but hasn’t presented an invasive plant problem. Here in the Panhandle, firespike will remain a tender perennial for most locations. It can be grown on a wide range of moderately fertile, sandy soils and is quite drought tolerant. Firespike may be best utilized in the landscape as a mass planting. Plants can be spaced about 2 feet apart to fill in the area quickly. It is one of only a few flowering plants that give good, red color in a partially shaded site. The lovely flowers make firespike an excellent candidate for the cutting garden and is a “must-have” for southern butterfly and hummingbird gardens. Additional plants can be propagated from firespike by division or cuttings. However, white-tailed deer love firespike too, and will eat the leaves, so be prepared to fence it off from “Bambi” if they are a problem in your neighborhood.
by Mary Salinas | Sep 23, 2014
In the midst of your September strolls through natural Florida, you may come across this native beauty, the narrowleaf sunflower, Helianthus angustifolius. Another common name is swamp sunflower. I found this gorgeous patch in the photo close to the shore of Apalachicola Bay. It occurs throughout Florida and north throughout much of the eastern United States. Florida is fortunate to be home to over 20 native species of sunflower.
Narrowleaf Sunflower. Photo credit: Mary Derrick, UF/IFAS Extension.
This perennial starts blooming in late summer and dazzles admirers throughout autumn. The 2 to 3 inch flowers with bright yellow petals and brown centers are attractive to butterflies and other pollinators. What a great addition to your butterfly garden!
Plants generally grow to about 2 foot tall but they can grow a bit leggy to 6 foot. If desired, keep them more compact through pruning in late spring. Clumps can be divided every few years to spread them out or to share with friends and neighbors.
Like all sunflowers, it loves full sun but can tolerate some light shade. Narrowleaf sunflower is salt and flood tolerant and will do well in most soil types, however it does best in consistently moist conditions.
Narrowleaf sunflower plants may be difficult to find in the nursery trade but they can be readily started from seed.
For more information and seed sources:
Florida Wildflower Foundation
Atlas of Florida Vascular Plants: Helianthus species
Common Native Wildflowers of North Florida
by Larry Williams | Sep 9, 2014
What plant is found mostly in older landscapes but is poorly available in most local nurseries, is closely related to okra and cotton but is called a rose and produces showy fall flowers that turn from white to pink or red? Give up?
The plant is commonly called confederate rose. Some people call it cotton rose. Its botanical name is Hibiscus mutabilis.
Confederate roses usually begin blooming in late summer and continue to flower well into fall.
Even though it’s frequently referred to as confederate rose, it’s not a member of the rose (rosaceae) family. It belongs to the mallow (malvaceae) family, which includes numerous ornamentals, cotton and okra.
It is a true hibiscus. But, unlike many other ornamental hibiscus species, for some reason it is not usually found in most local garden centers. The plant finds its way into other landscapes simply by one gardener sharing a cutting with another gardener.
It’s easy to propagate. New plants can be started in spring from seed or from 8 inch long terminal cuttings taken during spring, summer and early fall. Cuttings can be rooted in a conventional propagation bed or even in a glass of water.
There are several forms of confederate roses. The cultivar known as ‘Rubus’ has deep pink flowers. ‘Plena’ has double white flowers that change to pink or red on the second day. The older, original types have double flowers that open white in the morning and gradually turn pink in the afternoon.
Even though confederate rose is not very impressive during spring and summer with its cotton or okra like leaves, you may find it a worthwhile landscape plant as it produces its large flowers (some up to 6 inches across) in late summer and fall.
Confederate rose in bloom, Photo Credit: Santa Rosa County Extension
With proper care, a confederate rose should grow into a 15-foot tall bush during a single season. But expect the entire plant to be killed to the ground during the winter. But it usually sprouts rapidly from the crown the following spring. Be careful, too much fertilizer can result in lots of leaves but few blooms.
by Beth Bolles | Sep 2, 2014
Many species of butterflies are flitting through summer gardens but a special butterfly has recently made its appearance in perennial gardens. The Blue butterfly bush, Clerodendrum ugandense is a mid to late summer blooming plant that has unique flowers resembling butterflies.
Photo: Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
During our hottest days, light blue flowers appear above attractive green foliage. Plants may grow between 6 and 10 feet in height when provided with partial shade and moisture during the warm season. Although butterfly bush is a frost sensitive plant, it will likely return from the roots in hardiness zones 8 and 9. Even when replanted in the spring, it grows well enough that you will enjoy a flowering display by summer’s end. Plant your butterfly bush to accommodate a spreading growth habit and where garden visitors can get a close view of the interesting flowers.
Flower panicles. Photo: Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
by Julie McConnell | Apr 1, 2014
Container garden. Image: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
Living in a condo, apartment, or home with small yard does not mean you can’t garden at home. Whether you are interested in edible plants or ornamentals you can create a fit that is right for your space by using containers.
The first step in container gardening is the same as for traditional landscaping. First, asses your site to determine the cultural situation. Is it sunny or shady? Is water available from rainfall or from a nearby spigot? Will salt or wind be a factor? Are there height and width limitations? All of these need to be taken into consideration when you are planning to plant. These are elements that we have very little control over, so it is best to choose the right plants for the place you have.
Choose a container that will allow for adequate root growth and good drainage. If growing annuals, perennials, or small vegetables, a pot that is 12-18” deep should be sufficient. For shallow rooted or plants that like dry conditions you can go smaller. If plants grow tall make sure that the weight of the soil and pot is enough to keep it upright in gusty winds. It is not necessary to buy a container, you can reuse something as long as the water will drain and it is sturdy. Large containers may not need to be filled completely, but can be filled with a lightweight filler such as upside down nursery pots, water or soda bottles with lids, or packing peanuts. Choosing a light weight filler material makes the container easier to turn or relocate if needed and reduces the cost of potting soil.
Once you have determined site conditions, select the type of plants you would like to grow. When choosing edibles, the amount of sunlight available may be a limiting factor. Although some herbs and vegetables may benefit from a little bit of shade, they still need a bright location in order to produce well. If your site is very shady, consider shade loving ornamentals such as fern, hosta, and impatiens.
Understand the sunlight, water, and fertilizer needs of each plant. Group plants together that have similar requirements because they will receive the same care. Most herbs like a hot, dry situation and very little to no fertilizer. Grouping one of these herbs with a tomato plant that needs consistent watering and regular fertilizer will create a situation where one plant will perform poorly.
Container gardens require more care than plants in the ground because they dry out faster and may get no water from rainfall, if placed in a covered area. Consider using micro irrigation designed for containers or choose plants with low water needs such as the grasses and succulents.
To read more about container gardening read Container Gardening for Outdoor Spaces ENH1095.
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