by Larry Williams | Jun 22, 2016
MICROIRRIGATION – Image Credit UF/IFAS Extension
When watering to establish a lawn or when renovating (redoing, patching, reestablishing, starting over, etc.) a lawn, we normally call for 2-3 “mists” throughout the day for the first 7-10 days until roots get established. These are just 10 minute bursts. Then back off to once a day for about ½ hour for 7-10 days. Then go to 2-3 times a week for about 7 days. By then your lawn should be established.
If we are experiencing adequate rainfall, you may not need to irrigate. Rain counts. But in the absence of sufficient rain, you’ll need to provide enough water at the correct time to allow your new sod to root – hence, the above directions.
A well designed and correctly installed irrigation system with a controller, operated correctly, helps to achieve uniform establishment. It can be difficult or impossible to uniformly provide sufficient water to establish a lawn with hose-end sprinklers, especially if the lawn is sizeable and during dry weather. Most people are not going to do the necessary job of pulling hoses around on a regular basis to result in a well-established lawn.
Too much water will result in rot, diseased roots and diseased seedlings and failure. Too little water will result in the sod, seedlings, sprigs or plugs drying excessively and failure to establish. The end result at best is a poorly established sparse lawn with weeds. Or complete failure.
There is no substitute or remedy for incorrect irrigation when establishing a brand new lawn or when renovating an entire lawn or areas within a lawn.
It would be wise to not invest the time and money if the new lawn cannot be irrigated correctly. Taking the gamble that adequate (not too much, not too little) rainfall will occur exactly when needed to result in a beautiful, healthy, thick, lush lawn is exactly that – a gamble.
An irrigation system is nothing more than a tool to supplement rainfall. As much as possible, learn to operate the irrigation controller using the “Manual” setting.
The above schedule should help when planting a lawn from seed, sprigs, plugs or sod.
For additional information on establishing and maintaining a Florida lawn, contact your County UF/IFAS Extension Office or visit http://hort.ufl.edu/yourfloridalawn.
by Julie McConnell | Jun 8, 2016
Properly Mowed Empire Zoysiagrass – Image Credit Laurie E. Trenholm
Mowing is an important and often overlooked landscape best management practices that can increase lawn health.
Most of us mowed lawns to earn some spending money as kids. As long as it was shorter when we finished than when we started our customers were happy. Although mowing seems like a simple chore that anyone can do, it turns out that improper mowing can cause a lot of damage to lawns and can increase pest and disease issues.
Make sure your lawn mower in good working order. Ensure the blades are sharp and the engine is not leaking any oil or gas products that may damage your lawn. Dull or damaged blades will give a ragged cut to grass blades that make it easier for disease and insects to attack your lawn. Leaking fuel products can damage or kill turf. Keep your mower clean by blowing or rinsing it after use, this simple step will also reduce the spread of weeds, insects, and disease.
Know the recommended mowing height for your type of turf (see table below) and follow it! Cutting turf below the recommended height places stress on the grass and encourages shallow roots. Deep roots help turf handle stresses such as drought, shade, insects, disease, or traffic. If any of these circumstances are occurring, the mowing height should be increased and fertilization should be decreased.
Mowing Height Table
| Turfgrass Type |
Recommended Mowing Height |
| Bahiagrass |
3.0-4.0 inches |
| Bermudagrass |
0.75-1.5 inches |
| Centipedegrass |
1.5-2.5 inches |
| St. Augustinegrass |
3.5-4.0 inches, Dwarf Cultivars 2.0-2.5 inches |
| Zoysiagrass |
1.5-2.5 inches, cultivar dependent |
When mowing, never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per cutting. If the grass is overgrown, plan to mow in stages to avoid scalping or removing too much of the leaf blade. Just like shrubs, turf needs leaf surface area for photosynthesis. Allow clippings to fall onto lawns rather than catching them or discharging onto hard surfaces. The grass will decompose rapidly and provide nutrients to the lawn. Clippings that are blown onto sidewalks, streets, or other hard surfaces may be washed into storm drains and get into water systems. Just as decomposed clippings provide helpful nitrogen and phosphorus to our lawns, these same nutrients are harmful to our water bodies. Keeping them in lawns is a great way to recycle and to keep our water clean.
To learn more about caring for your turf click on the link below.
Bahiagrass for Florida Lawns
Bermudagrass for Florida Lawns
Centipedegrass for Florida Lawns
St. Augustinegrass for Florida Lawns
Zoysiagrass for Florida Lawns
by Ray Bodrey | Jun 1, 2016
If you’ve been researching lawn grass options recently, you’ve probably come across a not so traditional variety known as zoysiagrass. There’s no mystery why zoysiagrass has become a hit with lawn enthusiasts in the Panhandle. This variety is a great choice for coastal, warm weather climates. However, there are always management practices that need to be carefully considered, before deciding on a lawn grass variety.
Zoysiagrass was introduced to the U.S. from Asia around the early 1900’s. The grass has mostly been used for turf applications, especially on golf courses and other athletic fields. However, in recent years, breeding advances have made this variety a viable option for homeowners. Some of these improvements involve insect resistance and fast establishment periods.
Except for one species, zoysiagrasses must be planted by sod, plugs, or sprigs. Zoysia japonica is the only species commercially available in seed form. Zoysiagrass is a not a cold hardy plant. It’s the first grass variety to turn brown under cold temperatures and is slow to turn green once warmer temperatures arrive. Probably the most attractive quality of zoysiagrass is the ability to grow in virtually any soil, ranging from sandy to clay, acidic or alkaline. Moderately shaded locations are also acceptable for zoysia. Zoysiagrass is extremely drought tolerant. The plant’s root system has a great adaptation to combat drought conditions. Since the root system is very deep, it is able to maximize soil moisture potential.
Figure 1. Large (brown) patch disease caused by Rhizoctonia solani.
Credit. J. Bryan Unruh, UF/IFAS.
Zoysiagrass is not a silver bullet for lawn problems. It encounters weed and insect problems as well. The most formidable disease of zoysiagrass is large brown patch. This disease is caused by the fungal pathogen, Rhizoctonia solani. The disease begins in small patches that turn from yellow to brown. It’s common to see these patches with healthier grass in the center. The pathogen is most active when soil temps fall between 65-75°F. This generally correlates with the fall season and then throughout the following spring in the Panhandle. Zoysiagrass is no more susceptible to the disease as any other grass, but the recovery time is lengthy. With this being said, a proactive fungicide regimen is recommended.
Zoysiagrass also responds better to smaller quantities of fertilizer applied more frequently rather than supplying larger quantities infrequently. UF/IFAS Extension recommendations state that zoysiagrass should receive three applications per year in the Panhandle region.
If you are looking to seed or sod your landscape, zoysiagrass may be an option to consider. Best management practices influence the overall health and quality of your lawn and reduces its susceptibility to disease. Take these practices into consideration when deciding on a lawn grass.
Please visit Florida Friendly Landscaping, http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu/, for more information on maintaining your landscape.
Supporting information for this article can be found in the UF/IFAS EDIS publication “Zoysiagrass for Florida Lawns” by J. Bryan Unruh, L. E. Trenholm, and J. L. Cisar: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH01100.pdf
An Equal Opportunity Institution. UF/IFAS Extension, University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, Nick T. Place, Dean for UF/IFAS Extension. Single copies of UF/IFAS Extension publications (excluding 4-H and youth publications) are available free to Florida residents from county UF/IFAS Extension offices.
by Larry Williams | Apr 7, 2016
Watering to establish lawn
When watering to establish a lawn or when renovating (redoing, patching, reestablishing, starting over, etc.) a lawn, we normally call for 2-3 “mists” throughout the day for the first 7-10 days until roots get established. These are just 10 minute bursts. Then back off to once a day for about ½ hour for 7-10 days. Then go to 2-3 times a week for about 7 days. By then your lawn should be established.
Of course, if we are experiencing adequate rainfall, you may not need to irrigate. Rain counts. But in the absence of sufficient rain, you’ll need to provide enough water at the correct time to allow your new sod to root – hence, the above directions.
A well designed and correctly installed irrigation system with a controller, operated correctly, really helps to achieve uniform establishment. It can be very difficult or impossible and inconvenient and time consuming to uniformly provide sufficient water to establish a lawn with hose-end sprinklers, especially if the lawn is sizeable and during dry weather. Most people are not going to do the necessary job of pulling hoses around on a regular basis to result in a well established lawn.
There is no substitute or remedy for incorrect irrigation when establishing a brand new lawn or when renovating an entire lawn or areas within a lawn.
It would be wise to not invest the necessary time and money if the new lawn cannot be irrigated correctly. Taking the gamble that adequate (not too much, not too little) rainfall will occur exactly when needed to result in a beautiful, healthy, thick, lush lawn is exactly that – a gamble.
An irrigation system is nothing more than a tool to supplement rainfall. As much as possible, learn to operate the irrigation controller using the “Manual” setting. It is also wise and is state law to have a rain shutoff device installed and operating correctly. The rain shutoff device overrides the controller when it is raining or when sufficient rainfall has occurred. Rain shutoff devices are relatively inexpensive and easily installed. Also, a good rain gauge can be an inexpensive tool to help you monitor how much rain you’ve received. Rain counts.
Too much water will result in rot, diseased roots and diseased seedlings and failure. Too little water will result in the sod, seedlings, sprigs or plugs drying excessively and failure to establish. The end result at best is a poorly established sparse lawn with weeds. Or complete failure.
For additional information on establishing and maintaining a Florida lawn, contact your County UF/IFAS Extension Office or visit http://hort.ufl.edu/yourfloridalawn.
by Matthew Orwat | Feb 9, 2016
AGENDA
9:00-9:25 Opening Session: Introduction to lawn fertilization, when to fertilize and why proper timing is important, the importance of having a soil test
9:35-11:35 Four concurrent 25-minute sessions:
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Soil profile example, soil texture example, soil test kits, soil test interpretation
-
Fertilizer spreader calibration
-
Fertilizer products for use on turf & landscapes
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Enviroscape demonstration – Experience how fertilizers and other potential pollutants can contaminate our waterways
11:45-12:00 Closing Session – The importance of best management practices in fertilizer use
3 CEUs Available total : Urban Fertilizer (2), 482 Core (1) & Demonstration & Research (1)
