A male bluebird perches on his nest box at the Extension office. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension
“Don’t fly, Mister bluebird, I’m just walkin’ down the road. Early morning sunshine, tell me all I need to know.” These lyrics from the Allman Brothers’ song, “Blue Sky” always come to mind when I step outside our office building in the springtime. We have several bluebird houses installed on the Extension grounds, and birds have been busily building nests the last several weeks. Despite my attempts to admire from a safe distance, I inevitably disturb them and they fly off.
The Eastern Bluebird (Siala sialis) is a native species of cavity nesting bird, which covers territory from central Canada all the way south to Texas and coastal Florida. The United States is home to two other native bluebirds, the Mountain bluebird (S. currucoides), residing in high plains from Alaska to the mountain southwest, and Western bluebird (S. mexicana), which lives in drier evergreen forests on the west coast, from southern Canada to Baja Mexico. In comparison photos, the bluebird species have redder bellies on the east coast and are progressively bluer as you move west.
American bluebird species comparison. Courtesy Cornell Lab of Ornithology
A pair of bluebirds perched atop our office building. A grayer-feathered (likely female) bird can be seen on the left, near the deeper blue male on the right. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension
Bluebirds’ striking color patterns make them a favorite of amateur birdwatchers and one of the easiest birds to identify in the field. Their brilliant blue is a trick of the eye, though—in reality, birds are unable to produce blue feathers. Flamingos and roseate spoonbills produce genuine pink feathers using pigments from their food (like shrimp), but bluebirds are actually gray. As described by Smithsonian wildlife biologist Scott Sillett, the blue is a “structural color” formed by the angles of sunlight and refraction from keratin, creating the illusion of a brilliant blue. I’ve always thought bluebirds seemed brighter blue on sunny, blue-sky days—turns out they probably are!
Like bluebirds, numerous native bird species are cavity-nesters. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension
Bluebirds have overcome numerous threats to their populations over the last few hundred years in the United States. From habitat loss, fire ants (which attack nestlings), pesticides, and competition from introduced house sparrows and European starlings, bluebirds struggled for quite some time. Thankfully, their populations are now actually increasing and they are a “species of least concern.”
I noted about a year ago that someone in my neighborhood installed half a dozen bluebird boxes in our neighborhood park, and I’m betting that trend is multiplied exponentially around the country. Eastern bluebirds are a species of thrush, and are just one of many species that might utilize a nest box. In the wild, they are secondary cavity nesters. This means they wait for a primary cavity nester, like a woodpecker, to create a hole, then move in after it’s been abandoned. So, they are quite content to move into a prefabricated home built by humans.
A bluebird forages for insects on the ground. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension
From ancient Chinese, Russian, and Native American mythology to folklore and music of the deep South, bluebirds hold a special place in the human imagination. The song and phrase “bluebird of happiness” reflects their cheery appearance and simple joy. In a quick online search of bluebird references in popular culture, I found more than 25 in the last 100 years. Something about the impossibility of a brilliant blue little bird on a spring day just feels uplifting and joyful. Even in the wistful song from the Wizard of Oz, Dorothy sings, “Somewhere over the rainbow, bluebirds fly.”
Attracting wildlife is one of the Florida Friendly Landscaping principles. However, some species are better observed from long distance. Deer are beautiful creatures and taste pretty good too, but they can wreak havoc to a landscape and to fruits and vegetables. There are a number of methods to deter deer, but you’ll need to keep them guessing to limit damage to your yard.
A plant cage formed from metal fencing. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, UF/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
Physical Barriers – This deterrent method may be the most effective if installed correctly, but it can also be costly and requires the most labor and engineering to install.
Temporary Deer Fencing – Plastic mesh fencing can temporarily keep deer away from plantings. This material can be draped over plants or attached to posts or fencing with plastic ties or wire.
Hardware Cloth and Seedling Tubing – Hardware cloth can be formed into different shapes or secured to small structures to form a barrier around small plants. UV-inhibited polyethylene and polypropylene mesh seedling tubes can be bent into cylinders and placed around young shrubs and trees to protect them from foraging deer and other wildlife.
Garden Fencing – There are a variety of gauges available for this fencing. Heavier gauges are recommended to help keep deer out. It’s important to note that most adult deer can jump 7 feet high, so a fence height of at least 8 feet is recommended.
Electric Fencing – Peanut butter can be spread on a single strand of electric wire to encourage deer to check it out. More permanent electric fences can be installed, but are significantly more expensive.
Scare Items – Deer are skittish to things that are unfamiliar to them. However, it doesn’t take them long to adapt.
Ribbons and Tape – Light-weight ribbons and tape fluttering in the wind can help deter deer. Holographic and iridescent foil materials have shown the best results because they reflect sunlight and create more noise in the wind.
Motion Activated Sprinklers – Hitting a deer directly and the sound of water being turned on are deterrents for deer and other wildlife. It is best to periodically move the location of these sprinklers to improve their effectiveness.
Noisemakers – Whistles, firecrackers, and propane cannons can annoy deer, and people too. Unfortunately, deer become accustomed to these tactics. It is best to use noisemakers in combination with other deterrent methods.
Dogs – Just having a dog around can help keep deer away. Even if it’s a dog that has no care to bark at or chase a deer, its scent alone may be enough to deter them.
A motion activated sprinkler used to deter wildlife from a raised bed garden. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, UF/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
Chemical Repellents – A plethora of chemicals are marketed as deer deterrents. These products can work as odors, create bad tastes, or incite fear. Common ingredients include capsaicin, predator urine, egg solids, garlic, and soap. A number of factors can contribute to the effectiveness of chemical repellents including the growth stage of the plants to be protected and frequency of reapplication,
Resistant Plants – Deer eat almost anything. They sometimes even eat so-called “deer resistant plants”. However, the plants listed below are less desirable to deer. For a more comprehensive list of plant susceptibility to deer damage please visit the archived publication “Ornamental plant susceptibility to damage by deer in Florida”.
Trees – Deer will rub on almost any tree, but a few they are less likely to eat include: bottlebrush, sabal palm, crape myrtle, edible fig, loquat, live oak, magnolia, and yaupon holly.
Shrubs – Some shrubs that deer are less likely to eat include: mahonia, viburnum, wax myrtle, juniper, and most evergreen azaleas.
Annuals and Perennials – There are quite a few annuals and perennials that have shown signs of resistance to deer including: black-eyed Susan, bush daisy, cone flower, dusty miller, marigold, and salvia.
UF IFAS Extension Escambia County was recently able to offer a native tree and shrub giveaway to our community. A county partner had some grant funding remaining and chose a nice selection of plants grown by a local native nursery. After seeing the plant selection, I was really excited that a few participating homeowners had the opportunity to take home one of my favorite native plants, the Sparkleberry, Vaccinium arboretum.
The Sparkleberry in the corner of my back yard. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
Twenty-three years ago, I saved a sparkleberry on my new home lot because I loved this native tree. It has interest in all seasons in my opinion, including flowers, small fruit for wildlife, attractive bark, and an interesting shape as it matures. It has been a slower growing tree than others in my yard but I have enjoyed watching the tree develop its form and the bark develop the beautiful flaky cinnamon-brown look.
Sparkleberry bark and structure are attractive features in the landscape. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
The small tree is now about 12 feet tall and has never had any issues in the sandy, well drained soil. It can tolerate some moisture as long as the soil drains well. A grouping of trees from my neighbor’s lot keeps the plant in partial shade and we can often find sparkleberry specimens in the filtered light of woods. It can tolerate a sunnier location if that is the spot you have available for a small tree.
In addition to our enjoyment of this native tree, pollinators and other animals will appreciate the flower nectar, pollen, and berries. If you have a native nursery close to your home, be sure to ask for your own Sparkleberry if your site is suitable.
Many different Florida wildlife pass through a home landscape daily in search of food. Possibly the most destructive animal to landscape plants in northwest Florida is the White-Tailed Deer. Extensive amounts of damage can be observed after they have passed through. This damage is not just to landscapes but also impacts agriculture crops at an economic level.
Deer walking through a landscape in Northwest Florida. Photo Credit: Stephen Greer, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
Deer are searching for protein that can be found in many forms that may include acorns from oak trees, ornamental shrubs, flowers, and soybeans. For this article, I will focus on landscape plants. Deer require a significant amount of forages as adults to amass 6 plus pounds per 100 pounds of body mass on a daily basis as they attain muscle and fat. Maintaining this level of growth is needed for quality reproductive rates and surviving the times of year, usually the winter, with less food available. Keep in mind damage is significantly lower from mid-spring to mid-summer with greater damage occurring from late-summer to late-fall.
Deer damage to a loquat tree. Photo Credit: Stephen Greer, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
How to make informed plant decisions before placing them in the landscape and protecting many of these plants is a big question. There are many articles out there on selecting plants that are deer resistant or tolerant. Resistant to deer browsing is often dependent on how hungry they are and the amount of availability of other plants they prefer near by out of your landscape. With deer populations increasing significantly over the last few decades it has increased contact with people and the environments in which we live. To deter feeding and other damage to the landscape, fences have been placed as barriers, offensive smelling sprays have been used, lights and sounds have been used. The attempt is to offend more than one of the deer senses. These tactics work for a while until they adjust to these events and find their way back.
A barrier placed over a raised bed garden. Photo Credit: Stephen Greer, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County.
Some of the favored plants for deer include hosta, daylily, holly, and maple leaves and many more. Plants they tend to avoid are poisonous plants that include foxglove, poppies or fragrant plants from sage, salvias and bearded iris. There are publications with extensive lists of plants not to plant as they are a preferred food for deer and much shorter lists of plants they do not prefer. Contact your local UF IFAS Extension office for more information.
Deer, like many of the wildlife, were able to acclimate to neighborhoods and traffic settings. This has created additional dangers for many wildlife animals and people. The point is they are an established part of our communities. Determining how to best manage these growing populations has and will continue to be a big topic of discussion from neighbor to neighbor, community boards, farmers, and the Florida Wildlife Commission.
Sometimes we just need a little privacy. This is especially true if you live on a busy road or just have annoying neighbors. There are a few things to consider when selecting a screen tree: 1) full-grown size; 2) speed of growth; and 3) aesthetics. With these three factors in consideration, let’s review some screen options for different situations.
Pineapple Guava (Acca sellowiana) hedge. Photo Credit: Daniel Leonard, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Calhoun County
Pineapple Guava (Acca sellowiana)
At one time this shrub was hard to find, but it is slowly becoming more available. Pineapple guava is native to South America, but it adapts well to the Florida Panhandle. This plant can reach 10 to 15 feet in height with an equal spread and has a moderate rate of growth, so it’s a great choice when you just need a small screen. Pineapple guava is moderately salt-tolerant and does well in coastal landscapes. As a bonus, the flowers and fruit are edible. It’s hard to find a more aesthetically pleasing large shrub. Pineapple guava is evergreen with leathery green leaves that have grey undersides. This plant can be grown as a large shrub or pruned to be a small tree.
A large ‘Emily Bruner’ holly at the Santa Rosa County Extension Office. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
‘Emily Bruner’ Holly (Ilex x ‘Emily Bruner’)
‘Emily Bruner’ holly is a cross between the Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta) and the lusterleaf holly (Ilex latifolia). This evergreen shrub has glossy green leaves. It has a pyramidal growth habit and is listed as reaching 15 to 20 feet tall by 5 to 8 feet wide, however the specimen at the Santa Rosa County Extension Office is about twice that size. ‘Emily Bruner’ holly prefers moist, well-drained soil. This holly has dense, prickly leaves so it does well keeping people out of your yard in addition to buffering sound. The flowers have a sweet scent and are a favorite of honey bees.
Dahoon holly foliage and berries. Photo Credit: University of Florida/IFAS
Dahoon Holly (Ilex cassine)
Dahoon holly is native to North America, is tolerant of wet, shady sites (but can also handle full sun), and displays some salt tolerance. This evergreen, small tree is somewhat shrubby. It can grow to be 25 to 30 feet in height with an 8 to 12 foot spread. Dahoon holly has nice light green leaves that are smooth, not prickly like ‘Emily Bruner’ holly. It has a moderate growth rate.
Bracken’s Brown Beauty as an accent tree in a lawn area. Photo Credit: Beth Bolles, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Escambia County
Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)
It’s hard to beat a majestic southern magnolia in the landscape. Why not utilize it as a screen tree? Now, not all southern magnolias are made equal. There are a few cultivars that do well as screens as well as on their own. ‘Bracken’s Brown Beauty’, ‘Claudia Wannamaker’, and ‘D.D. Blanchard’ are three that come to mind and are readily available in the trade. Southern magnolias can reach up to 80 feet tall and 20 to 40 feet wide depending on cultivar and growing conditions. Not only do these three cultivars have beautiful dark green, leathery leaves, their leaves also have brown undersides. These versatile trees can tolerate are variety of soil conditions and they are very wind resistant. And as another bonus, they have beautiful, fragrant flowers.
Middle-aged Juniperus virginiana ‘Burkii’: Burk Eastern Redcedar. Photo Credit: Ed Gilman, University of Florida/IFAS
Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana)
If your looking for softer texture in your landscape, then you can’t go wrong with a cedar tree. Unbeknownst to its name, eastern redcedar can be found growing all over the United States. This evergreen conifer prefers well-drained sites in full sun. It can grow 30 to 40 feet in height by 10 to 20 feet wide. Eastern redcedars have good salt tolerance. These trees produce beautiful, blue-green foliage. One key to growing this tree successfully is to give it space. Plant trees 12 to 24 feet apart. If using as a screen, you may consider staggering this tree to give it the space it needs.
There are lots of good options when selecting trees for a screen. It’s important you select plants that fit the site. The University of Florida has an excellent plant selection tool found at the Florida Trees for Urban and Suburban Sites webpage.
