Cool weather in North Florida often inspires gardeners to grab the pruners and “clean up” the landscape. But, winter pruning should be selective and intentional. The right cuts can improve plant health, structure, and flowering, while pruning the wrong plant at the wrong time can reduce blooms or increase cold damage. Timing in winter is crucial. Many plants slow down or go dormant, which can make it easier to see branch structure and remove limbs. Some plants benefit from dormancy pruning, because it can help reduce pest and disease pressure and prepare plants for a strong flush of spring growth. However, getting lopper-happy too early can trigger tender new growth to emerge that becomes susceptible to late-freeze injuries.
Hand saw cutting a tree branch. Photo taken 05-01-20.
So, what is safe to prune currently? You should stick with dead, diseased, or damaged trees or shrubs. These cuts improve plant health overall and reduce placement for insects and pathogens to lay waiting during the winter months. Deciduous fruit trees often benefit from a winter haircut as well. Trees that drop their leaves, like plums, apples, and pears will benefit from winter pruning by opening their canopy for light and air and encouraging stronger spring flushes.
An illustration of the pruning structures. On the left is the open center training system and the right is modified central leader. Photo rights: http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/pruning/pruning-deciduous-fruit-trees.html
There are a few plants you should leave alone until the spring. Many spring flowering shrubs like azalea and camellia should be left until spring. This is due to their late winter blooming patterns and should be pruned right after their flowering window. Tender, cold-sensitive plants and evergreens that you are not trying to shape should also be left until the warmer months.
Overall, timing matters when considering cleaning up your landscape during the temperate months. The best pruning principles are knowing why you’re pruning (removing dead wood, etc.) and not removing more than about twenty-five to thirty percent of the live canopy in one growing season. Making correct, angled cuts to promote healing of the pruned areas is also very important to promote growth to come back to the plant.
Winter pruning in North Florida is not about “tidying” everything at once, it’s about timing and purpose. By being selective of what you are cutting and when to leave plants along, you will set your landscape up for healthy growth and beautiful blooms this spring.
Snapdragon in bloom: Photo credit Donna Arnold FAMU Extension.
Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) add vibrant color to fall and winter gardens in North Florida with their wide range of hues. Colors include red, orange, yellow, and maroon. Their growth varies; tall varieties reach 2–3 feet, intermediates 1–2 feet, bedding types 6–15 inches, and rock garden hybrids about 6 inches. Dark-colored flowers often have reddish stems, while pale blooms grow on light green stems. Snapdragons’ warm-colored flowers stand out in garden beds, especially when paired with white flowers, enhancing their red, orange, and maroon tones. Their fine-textured foliage contrasts nicely with large-leaved plants and compact shrubs.
Though not native to North America, they are widely cultivated and are not considered invasive. Snapdragons are versatile and ideal for mass plantings, containers, cut flowers, and edging. They are generally available within their hardiness range, making them a popular gardener choice.
Caring for Snapdragons requires minimal work. They thrive in slightly acidic garden soil but struggle in unamended clay. Therefore, ensuring the soil remains acidic is key to their survival. They require full sun and moist soil. After the first bloom, cutting plants back to five or six nodes encourages a second flowering. Also, fertilizing at bud formation improves growth.
You can increase numbers through propagation. Propagation can be done through seeds or cuttings. Seeds germinate in 10–14 days at 70°F and should not be covered with soil. Prechilled seeds germinate best. Pinch seedlings with two to three leaf sets, except for dwarf varieties. Plant in fall for winter blooms in zones 9–11. In zone 8b and south, snapdragons may survive mild winters. Space plants 6–10 inches apart.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids: Feed on young growth, weakening plants.
Greenhouse leaf tier: Chews and webs leave; pesticides are ineffective once leaves roll.
Mites: Cause bronzed, stippled foliage, especially in hot weather.
Common Diseases
Rust: Brown pustules with yellowed leaf tissue; use proper spacing and resistant varieties.
Anthracnose: Causes sunken spots on stems and yellowing leaves; destroys infected plants.
Gray mold: Leads to wilting and stem browning; worsens in wet conditions. Remove infected stalks.
Stem rot: Cottony growth near soil line; infected plants should be removed.
Snapdragons offer rich color, versatility, and seasonal interest in gardens, making them a valuable addition for novice and experienced gardeners.
For more information contact your local extension office or click on the following links.
Last month, we experienced historic snowfall throughout the Panhandle. During these magical snow days, I noticed that I had to refill my bird feeder faster than expected. Even as snow fell, birds flocked to the feeder all day long.
UF/IFAS Photo by Cristina Carrizosa
In winter, birds rely more on bird feeders because many plants are dormant and aren’t producing food. Insects are also less abundant during the colder months. (Read about where they go here: Where Do Insects Go in the Winter?). Growing native plants in your landscape can help provide extra food sources for birds and habitat for overwintering insects. However, long periods of freezing temperatures, like those we experienced last month and in December of 2022, can damage natural food sources and make it even harder for birds to find food.
Consider supporting your local and migrating bird populations this winter by putting out a bird feeder. In return, expect a colorful show you can enjoy in your own yard! Here are some recommendations for success:
Different birds are attracted to different types of food and have different feeding habits. To reduce mess, look for seed mixes that don’t contain milo, oats, and red millet, often labeled “no mess”. These seeds are less desirable to birds and often end up scattered on the ground, which can attract rodents. Uneaten millet seeds can sprout and grow under bird feeders.
Millet growing under bird feeder from uneaten seed.
Pine cone bird feeder
Suet is an excellent choice for winter feeding because it’s a high-protein, high-energy food source for birds. You can buy suet at the store or make your own using this recipe: DIY Suet Recipe. Another fun, homemade option is the classic pinecone bird feeder made with peanut butter or lard. This kid-friendly activity can be found here: Pinecone Bird Feeder
It’s important to clean your feeders every two to three weeks to prevent the spread of diseases, get rid of moldy seeds, and keep the birds healthy. Most bird feeders can be cleaned with a 10% bleach solution, while wooden feeders are best cleaned with hot, soapy water. Sugar water in hummingbird feeders should be changed every 3-5 days or more frequently if they’re in direct sunlight or hot weather. Don’t forget to wash your hands after cleaning or refilling your bird feeder!
The best way to support your local birds is by planting native plants and providing a safe habitat in your yard. Native plants produce food and attract insects that birds feed on, helping them thrive year-round. When food is scarce, bird feeders can be an important supplement, but regular cleaning is essential to maintain bird health.
For more detailed information on feeder selection, food types, and tips, visit: Bird Feeder Guide.
Many of us experienced our first freezing temperatures in the Panhandle last week. As we welcome winter, here are some helpful resources to prepare your plants when temperatures dip in the months ahead:
One tip you’ll often see in these recommendations is to water your plants before a freeze. At first, this might seem counterintuitive, but wet soil can actually help your plants weather freezing temperatures for several reasons.
Soil naturally has small pockets of air. UF/IFAS Photography: Tyler Jones.
Water’s ability to absorb and hold heat—known as high specific heat—makes it a powerful tool against cold stress. Dry soil contains air spaces that don’t hold heat well. By watering your soil, you replace those air pockets with water, which absorbs more heat during the day and releases it slowly at night. This helps keep the soil and roots warmer than the surrounding air. Covering plants with sheets and frost cloth can help trap this warmth around the plants.
Dehydration from freeze damage can make leaf tissue look similar to drought stress. UF/IFAS Photo by Cat Wofford
Beyond heat retention, water also reduces the effects of cold stress. Both freezing and drought conditions cause plant cells to lose water, leading to dehydration. Water is essential for many plant functions including photosynthesis, nutrient transport, and maintaining structural support of the plant. Good water availability within the plant before the freeze helps reduce the water stress associated with cold damage. However, watering right after a freeze will not provide the same benefits because root activity slows in the cold weather.
For best results, water the soil in the morning before a freeze, focusing on the soil, rather than the leaves, as wet leaves are more prone to freeze damage. During fall and winter, plants generally require less frequent watering, so check the soil moisture before watering to avoid overwatering. Standing water can harm roots and increase stress on the plant.
Get familiar with your soil by checking moisture level before you water. UF/IFAS Photo by Tyler Jones
The kudzu bug, an invasive pest, has been a significant concern in soybean cultivation in the southeastern United States since 2009, particularly in Georgia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Alabama. Beyond its impact on agriculture, the kudzu bug proves to be a nuisance to homeowners and outdoor enthusiasts during both early spring and fall. In the winter months, the kudzu bug becomes inactive and actively seeks overwintering sites in the fall.
Credit: Worrel Diedrick, Florida A&M University.
If you observed a substantial number of small, greenish, round, flattened insects on the exterior walls of your home, there is a likelihood that you, like many others in your community, were visited by the kudzu bug. This relatively new invasive insect from Asia has become an unexpected guest for numerous residents and business owners, as it landed on homes and other structures in search of suitable overwintering sites.
Fortunately, the overwintering flights of the kudzu bug are relatively brief, lasting only a few days in the fall. However, if your residence becomes one of their chosen landing sites and they manage to infiltrate by crawling into cracks and crevices, the issue may escalate to the interior of your dwelling, posing a more significant problem than their presence on the exterior.
Kudzu Bug Habitat
Outdoors, kudzu bugs tend to congregate in gaps under the bark of trees, gaps under the siding of homes, and higher elevations such as fascia boards and gutters on the edges of homes. They are attracted to light-colored surfaces, with a particular fondness for white. Kudzu bugs will congregate on white siding, white cars, or white attire. In early fall, they often gather on light-colored exterior walls before moving into gaps and cracks, seeking shelter and warmth for overwintering.
To mitigate the possibility of infestation, the most effective preventive measure is to seal all openings where kudzu bugs could potentially enter your dwelling using caulk. While insecticides might be considered for control, it’s crucial to note that this option is challenging to time accurately and often proves mostly ineffective in addressing the problem.
