This past week I was camping at a state park near Gainesville. Working on a variety of computer related items while sitting in my chair, I was acutely attuned to the sounds of life around me. A small “pat-pat-pat” could be heard in the leaf litter around the tent. Curious as to what was making the sound, I moved the leaves until numerous small frogs showed themselves – and immediately settled on my tent. The wind rustling through the trees, the distinct “kee kee kee” of the red shouldered hawk, and the sounds of numerous woodland song birds filled the senses and all caused me to pause my work and listen to life.
Camping is a great way to clear the mind, think through problems, and experience the natural world. Photo: RIck O’Connor
The evenings were no different… the loud rustling of digging armadillos, the distinct calls of at least two types of owls, and the howling of coyotes could be heard every night. Then one evening…nothing… it all stopped. I heard no owls, coyotes, or frogs. The woods had become completely silent. Funny how you notice silence as much as you do the “calls of the wild”.
The following morning the skies were different. They were not dark but you could sense rain was in the area. I moved into the tent in time for the rain to begin…a light rain, but rain none the less. And it rained all day… and most of the night. I was dry within my tent – continued to work on my computer – but was aware of the extent of the rain and of the silence around me. It was not until later that evening that I heard there was a tropical system on the Atlantic coast. The woods had become silent the afternoon before…did they know it was coming?
Camping does this… it reconnects us to the natural world. We can experience Florida the way our ancestors would have. To listen to the animal sounds, sense the changes in the weather, and explore. Yes, explore. You can only sit at the campsite for so long. Most campgrounds provide hiking trails and swimming areas where you can not only explore nature but get much needed exercise. Some campgrounds provide elevated observation towers with benches where you can sit, listen, look, and let the hub-bub of typical daily life escape you for a while. Honestly… here I get some of my best ideas for work. I think clearer and can prioritize a hectic schedule of “to-do’s”. I recommend bringing a small notebook to jot down ideas as they come. It is very relaxing and productive at the same time.
If you have kids… perfect! There are fewer “wild areas” within neighborhoods for kids to explore their natural world. Many youth today have not experienced finding hermit crabs or frogs. Camping is a great way for them to do this. I understand that some are nervous about different forms of wildlife while camping (snakes) but honestly, I rarely see them. They have learned to stay clear of open areas – I have bigger problems with squirrels and ants. Do not let that stop you from enjoying Florida.
There are several state parks with camp grounds in the Florida Panhandle; Torreya State Parkeven has a couple of yurts! You may need to reserve a site. There are campgrounds scattered in the Apalachicola National Forest, which are less visited. If you are in the Escambia / Santa Rosa area – you can visit Naturally EscaRosa.com to find camping options in that area.
Earlier this year, Bay County completed an artificial reef project in Gulf waters approximately 3 nautical miles (nm) south of the Panama City Beach Pier (Pier Park) and 11 nm west of St Andrew Bay Pass in Small Area Artificial Reef Site D. On May 14, five Super Reefs were deployed, each weighing approximately 36,000 lbs and rising 18 feet from the ocean floor. Typical artificial reef modules are only about 8 feet tall. This was the first time Super Reefs were deployed in western Bay County in the Panama City Beach area. The project provides marine habitat comparable to sinking a large vessel.
Mexico Beach Artificial Reef Association (MBARA) supported Bay County and Walter Maine during the deployment efforts. MBARA provided this YouTube video documenting the deployment and post-deployment dive survey. During the survey, divers noted baitfish already utilizing the new habitat. The Super Reef module coordinates and details were verified as follows:
Patch Reef #
Latitude
Longitude
Depth (ft)
Permit Area
BC2015 Set 17 (1)
30° 10.196N
85° 54.607 W
74
SAARS D
BC2015 Set 18 (2)
30° 10.179 N
85° 54.567 W
75
SAARS D
BC2015 Set 19 (3)
30° 10.176 N
85° 54.603 W
75
SAARS D
BC2015 Set 20 (4)
30° 10.153N
85° 54.594 W
73
SAARS D
BC2015 Set 21 (5)
30° 10.138 N
85° 54.602 W
73
SAARS D
Previous monitoring and research suggest it takes 3 to 5 years for new reefs to reach full development of the associated marine ecosystem. Bay County will work with local anglers, divers, reef associations, and agencies to evaluate the performance of the new reef materials and the reef design.
Bay County artificial reef projects seek to use material that meets program goals and objectives. In this case, larger reef materials were selected to support larger reef fish such as amberjack, grouper, and snapper. Individual reef modules were spaced to support fish forage areas and accommodate multiple users including anglers and divers.
Walter Marine’s Maranatha deploying one of the five Super Reefs placed 3 nm south of Pier Park. The Super Reefs weigh more than 18 tons and are 18 feet tall. Photo by Bay County Artificial Reef Coordinator, Allen Golden.
The “Prayer of the Woods” is an attitude that many in this part of the panhandle try to live.
Photos: Molly O’Connor
30A in south Walton County is a special place.
Undiscovered for years, then developed… but developed more sustainably than most coastal panhandle communities – this area has now become a go-to destination for many in the southeastern U.S. Grayton Beach, Seaside, Water Color, and others were developed with idea of walkable-biking community and allowing as much nature to remain as possible. Many subdivisions use native plants for their landscaping. It is a neat area to explore.
My base camp for this part of our ICW tour was Topsail State Park. Though there are numerous other locations to camp, they were all full… the 30A Song Writers Festival was going on at the time. The first thing I noticed was a bike trail that extends much of 30A itself. There were locations along the way where visitors can rent bicycles and it is a great way to take in the scenery… and there is scenery. Some of the more majestic dunes I have seen anywhere along the panhandle are found here. Dunes in Pensacola use to look like these but storms have taken their toll – somehow the dunes of 30A were spared.
The spectacular dunes of south Walton County.
The wind sculpted plants of the tertiary dunes.
You cannot talk about the dunes without talking about the dune lakes. Scattered across much of the panhandle the highest concentration, and least impacted, of these lakes are found here in Walton County. These freshwater lakes are separated from the high saline Gulf of Mexico by a field of dunes. There are channels that connect them but these are sometimes closed by moving sand. When open, these channels allow the brown tannic waters of the lakes to spill into the Gulf – a weird sight which trigger thoughts of pollution. You can see evidence of high tides entering the lakes with the presence of cordgrass and needlerush (classic salt marsh plants) and species of marine fish such as stingray and redfish. There is access to some of the dune lakes via the state parks. Here there are trails along the shore and through the dunes, and kayaks to rent. The gulf is not but a few feet away – this is a great place to bring snorkel gear or binoculars for birding.
One of the many “jewels of south Walton” – the dune lakes.
In the distance you can see the brown-tannic water of a dune lake entering the Gulf of Mexico.
Black Needlerush is one of the species of marsh grasses that live in brackish conditions.
Dune trail at Grayton Beach State Park
The Gulf of Mexico in south Walton County.
Another view of the Gulf of Mexico.
The boardwalk of Deer Lake State Park off of Highway 30-A. you can see the tracks of several types of mammals who pass under at night.
There are additional state park and state forest trail heads along 30A to explore. Accommodations are hard to come by during peak season so you will have to plan ahead – but a few days here is worth it.
If visiting the Escambia / Santa Rosa area be sure to check out the Naturally EscaRosa website and download the app to find great outdoor adventures in the western panhandle.
Continuing our “ecotour” of the Florida Panhandle along the ICW, this month’s stop is in Walton County. Arguably one of the fastest growing counties in the state, South Walton has become a favorite with many. Relatively undeveloped (as compared to neighboring counties) Walton has an opportunity to develop smarter… and for a lot of it – they have.
Entering Walton County from the west you leave the concentrated tourism of Destin and enter Sandestin. Though still highly developed it slowly gives way to the Point Washington area and more open ground. Here you begin to encounter the famous Dune Lakes. There are no barrier islands along the coastline of Walton County. Instead the Gulf meets the peninsula separating it from Choctawhatchee Bay to the north. Along the Gulf there are magnificent dune fields and freshwater lakes that periodically are open to the Gulf. The lakes are unique in that they have freshwater habitats and tannic waters as well as saltmarsh and seawater when their “mouths” are open. This unique situation provides an ecosystem found in few places in our state. The now famous 30-A travels along these dune lakes across the entire of South Walton. Two state parks, a state forest, a bike trail, and small communities dot this famous trail.
Between 30-A and the Intracoastal Waterway to the north lies the Point Washington State Forest. Here lie acres of well managed pine forest. There are many trails that can be hiked, driven, or traversed by horseback. There are several trails here that are part of state forest’s Trailwalker Program. A major part of this well managed forest is prescribed burning.
This dune lake at Topsail State Park is one of many “stretched” across South Walton County.
The state park provides kayaks for exploring the dune lake at Topsail. It can be reached by hiking or a tram they provide.
The beautiful beaches of south Walton.
Here is one of the many state forest trails used by hikers and joggers.
The Florida State Forest hiking trail system provides a lot of information about their trails that is very useful.
The Florida State Trailwalkers Program is a neat way to encourage locals to visit their “natural landscape”. You must hike 10 of the selected trails (on their website provided in this article). There is a log you can download and when you have logged your 10 hikes mail it in. You will receive a free patch indicating you are a “Florida Trailwalker”! This is a great way to explore your “natural Florida”.
There are trails that cross Point Washington State Forest that can be driven, hiked, or even explored on horseback.
Signage educating the public about the benefits of prescribed burning.
This is the renovated Wesley House at Eden Gardens State Park. The Wesley’s were in the timber industry.
Eden Garden State Park is located north of Highway 98 in south Walton County. It borders the south side of the ICW near Choctawhatchee Bay and is a beautiful getaway.
Partly due to successful bear management and partly due to the increase population of humans in the Florida panhandle, bear encounters are in the increase. This sign at Eden Garden State Park provides information on how to deal with an encounter.
From Eden Garden State Park you can look across the bayou to the point where the ICW leaves Choctawhatchee Bay and enters a manmade canal locals refer to as “the ditch”. Notice the prescribed burn occurring across the bay.
PRESCRIBED BURNING
Now days many are aware of the forest management tool we call “prescribed burning”… but not all. For many people, fires are “wild” and the smoke they generate is an unwanted pain. Much of the southeast, particularly Florida, encounter thunderstorms with frequent lighting. These lighting strikes spark fires which burn across acres of forest. The frequency of the lighting storms – and fires – actually kept the understory below the pines cleared and so the fires typically burned low and slow. The result was an understory of grasses and wildflowers that supported a wide variety of species including deer and quail. When he traveled through the southeast in 1775, William Bartram described the longleaf forest as “open and monotonous – going on for miles”. And this was the case… you could literally see up to a mile across the landscape. But this “monotonous” landscape was misleading in that there were thousands of species found here – many feel one of the most biological diverse systems anywhere.
Today 90% of the longleaf has been logged and much of what remains is fire suppressed. For the reasons mentioned above, residents have resisted the natural burns and many species – gopher tortoises, quail, and indigo snakes to name three – have suffered as well. There is a move across the southeast to restore the old longleaf pine forest. These trees produce excellent timber – though it takes longer to grow than the loblolly and slash pine currently grown – and many are managing their property for quail and deer hunting. Yes… the smoke is a problem but the state forestry system plans their burns to reduce the impact it has on the local community as best they can. If you really want to see the benefits of a well-managed pine forest, take a hike through one – it truly is amazing.
Florida has the highest number of sea turtles of any state in the continental US. Three species are common here including loggerhead, green and leatherback turtles. The Federal Endangered Species Act lists all of sea turtles in Florida as either threatened or endangered.
Sea turtle nesting season for the area began May 1, 2016. Adult females only nest every 2-3 years. At 20-35 years old, adult loggerhead and green female turtles return to the beach of their birth to nest. At this age, they are about 3 feet long and 250-300 pounds. The turtles will lay their eggs from May – September, with 50-150 baby turtles hatching after 45-60 days, usually at night. One female may nest several times in one season.
If you happen to see a sea turtle nesting, or nest hatching, stay very quiet, keep your distance, and turn any lights off (no flash photography). You should never try to touch a wild sea turtle. Also, do not touch or move any hatchlings. The small turtles need to crawl on the beach in order to imprint their birth beach on their memory.
During nesting season, it is important to keep the beaches Clean, Dark and Flat. Clean, by removing everything you brought to the beach including trash, food, chairs and toys; dark, by keeping lights off, using sea turtle friendly lighting and red LED flashlights if necessary; and flat, filling up all holes and knocking down sand castles before leaving the beach. If you see anyone harassing a sea turtle or a sea turtle in distress for any reason, do not hesitate to call the Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission hotline at 1-888-404-3922.
There has been encouraging sea turtle news in Florida as a result of the conservation actions being undertaken. There is an increasing number of green turtle nests and a decreasing number of dead turtles found on beaches.
If you want to see a sea turtle and learn more about these fascinating creatures, visit the Navarre Beach Sea Turtle Conservation Center, Navarre, FL, the Gulfarium Marine Adventure Park on Okaloosa Island, Fort Walton Beach, FL, or Gulf World Marine Park in Panama City, FL.
County
Beach nesting area (miles)
Number of loggerhead sea turtle nests
Number of green sea turtle nests
Number of leatherback sea turtle nests
Franklin
56
608
14
0
Gulf
29
451
14
0
Bay
44
170
12
5
Walton
30
94
4
3
Okaloosa
24
73
6
0
Santa Rosa
7
17
4
0
Escambia
39
86
4
1
Table 1: Data from the 2015 Florida Statewide Nesting Beach Survey available at: www.myfwc.com.
Young loggerhead sea turtle heading for the Gulf of Mexico. Photo: Molly O’Connor
The Foundation for the Gator Nation, An Equal Opportunity Institution.
As many of you already know each month we have posted articles about nature tourism locations along the Intracoastal Waterway in the Florida Panhandle. This month we visit coastal Okaloosa County.
The Gulfarium in Ft. Walton Beach gives those who do not get a chance to go offshore, or dive, to see some of the unique marine organisms found in the Gulf of Mexico.
As with many other fishing piers along the panhandle, the Okaloosa Pier not only provides a spot for good fishing but a good spot to watch for marine life and great sunsets.
For years’ tourists have been visiting the beaches of Ft. Walton and Destin. The big draw has been the clean white sand but the area is also known for its really clear water. This clear water has supported a charter fleet that focuses on diving and fishing, but in recent years several operations have included inshore snorkeling and even trawling for marine life for tourists to view.
Many feel that you are not allowed on Eglin property. This is true for much of the island under their jurisdiction but there are places where you can park and enjoy the beach – though you must obey their rules.
Residents enjoying the beach at one of the public access points on Eglin property.
Destin harbor is now home the Haborwalk. There is a lot to see and do on the Haborwalk – and plenty of boat tours.
This sign gives the visitor some idea of the different activities that can be found along the Haborwalk.
There are numerous types of tours to found along the Harborwalk. Information booths such as this one can help you find what you are looking for.
Charters include fishing, diving, snorkeling, and some collect marine life for you to see.
Dolphin cruises are very popular.
There are sailing charters that will allow you to experience the Gulf of Mexico, sunset cruises, and there are some designed with kids in mind.
Henderson State Park is on the south side of Highway 98. It has hiking trails, a campground, and access to the Gulf. This is a nice natural location within a very urban area.
One of the scenic trails where you can explore the natural dune ecosystem in Henderson State Park
ARTIFICIAL REEFS
The natural substrate for most of the northern Gulf of Mexico is quartz sand. There are areas of hard bottom, shell hash, and even some natural reefs but sand dominates the landscape beneath the waves. There is no question that the natural coral reefs of the Florida Keys have been a huge economic engine for that part of the state. The clear, high saline water is filtered by the Everglades and allows much needed light to reach the tiny coral polyps and their symbiotic plant partners, which in turn produce limestone substrate for the polyp colonies to live and grow on.
Locally we have rivers that discharge into the Gulf but the water clarity is still pretty good. The bigger problem for coral development here is the cold winter temperatures and the lack of hard substrate for coral colonies to attach. There are several species of corals, and other encrusting invertebrates and plants, that can tolerate our cooler winters but substrate is still an issue. The answer… artificial substrate… artificial reefs.
Northwest Florida and Alabama have one of the most active artificial reef programs anywhere. Thousands of structures from small concrete pyramids, to chicken coops, to U.S. Navy vessels have been dropped to the bottom. The concept is “build it… and they will come” – meaning the encrusting organisms and eventually larger predatory fishes. At first artificial reefs were just left over rubble and car bodies that were indiscriminately dropped on the Gulf floor. But over years’ marine scientists began to monitor and evaluate what works and what does not and artificial reefs became a science. One question has not been answered… do artificial reefs generate more fish for fishermen – or do they just congregate the existing number of fish into more easily accessible points in the Gulf for easy capture? There is science that supports both arguments… and the debate continues. But if you want to know whether artificial reefs have been an economic success the answer is… yes… by the tens of millions of dollars it has. The charter fleets of Ft. Walton, Destin, Panama City, and Pensacola have all benefited from the artificial reef program. There are numerous structures to dive and many are part of the Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail.
If you get a chance take a charter and dive, or fish, one of these interesting and well thought out habitats. Next month we head further east to Walton County and the famous “30A” highway.
