by Mark Tancig | Jan 29, 2026
Most folks are familiar with the concept of supply and demand and how it affects cost. The more numerous a product, the lower the cost. The cost also reflects value, so the more abundant something is, typically the lower the value. This idea of abundance being tied to little value can also be applied to the amazing world of nature around us. Water, for instance, is usually valued little in areas where it is abundant compared to areas where it is scarce. Unfortunately, when it comes to common native plant species found in our local ecosystems, their sheer abundance leads many to consider them not too valuable. However, sometimes, if we step back and learn about these species, we find that many may be locally abundant, but globally very special. Hopefully, this new found knowledge encourages us to value them a little more!
Saw palmetto is common element of many Florida ecosystems. Credit: Gary Knight, Florida Natural Areas Inventory.
One such example is our very common saw palmetto (Serenoa repens), a plant that is so common in our area that it often goes overlooked and undervalued. How many of you have observed a pine flatwoods loaded with saw palmetto, and gone – “Ehh, it’s so plain and boring?” However, saw palmetto, while locally abundant, is not so plain and boring. Did you know that saw palmetto is found nowhere else on Earth except in our little pocket of the southeastern USA? Its range hugs the Gulf coastal plain from Louisiana to South Carolina, and that’s it.
The limited range of saw palmetto. Credit: Kartesz, J.T. 2026. Floristic Synthesis of North America, Version 1.0. Biota of North America Program (BONAP) [website http://bonap.org/] Chapel Hill, N.C
- Saw palmettos are a native, flowering shrub that do well in ornamental landscapes. They provide a tropical look, and the flowers are very attractive to insects and other pollinators. Just be sure to select the right place for them, as they do expand to 4-10 feet wide so it can become a problem near walkways or in tight spaces.
Saw palmetto does spread wide, so give it plenty of space. Credit: Karen Williams, UF/IFAS.
- While saw palmetto fruits are an important food source for birds and other wildlife, humans also have an interest in them. The fruits are harvested by pharmaceutical companies for medicinal purposes, and extracts of saw palmetto fruits are easily found for sale in health food stores and online. The extracts are mainly marketed as a natural remedy for issues related to enlarged prostate or inflammation, though many physicians and medical groups remain skeptical of any benefits.
The fruits of saw palmetto are valued by wildlife and humans alike. Credit: USDA.
- Saw palmetto clumps can live a long time! As a clonal shrub species (it spreads from runners), it has long been assumed that each clump could be as much as 500 years old. However, recent genetic work has found that saw palmetto clumps living in the Lake Wales Ridge of Florida are at least 1,000 to 5,000 years old, conservatively. This means that there are likely saw palmettos living in south Florida that were around when Aristotle was tutoring Alexander the Great!
Hopefully, you now value saw palmettos just a little bit more than before you started reading this article. Knowing that such a unique plant is right in our backyard, common as dirt, let’s try to find ways to appreciate it and maybe include it in our landscapes, too. Keep in mind that saw palmetto is just one of many locally abundant, but globally special plants that thrive in our local ecosystems.
If you want to start learning more about the plants all around us, you can start by first identifying the species you observe. iNaturalist is a great, free app for your phone that can get you started. Your local extension office is also a resource. Once you have an identification, the Flora of North America and Biota of North America Program websites can give you detailed descriptions and range maps to help you discover the marvelous elements of our local flora.
by Matt Lollar | Jan 29, 2026
Peach and plum trees are prone to diseases and often produce inconsistent yields. The best way to remedy these issues is with proper pruning. Annual pruning reduces disease incidence, improves fruit quality, and increases tree longevity. So when should trees be pruned and how do we go about it?
Pruning Timing
Peach and plum trees should be pruned in late winter before blooming begins. Mid- to late-February is a good time for the Florida panhandle. If trees are pruned too early they may put on new growth too early and be exposed to late winter freeze events.
Heading cut made on a recently planted whip, selecting five scaffolds and stopping terminal growth. Photo Credit: David Lawrence, Auburn University
Pruning Cuts
Two types of pruning cuts are utilized for pruning peach and plum trees; thinning and heading cuts. Thinning cuts remove unwanted shoots from their point of origin. Heading cuts are made about a 1/4 inch above a bud. Thinning cuts are used to open up the tree canopy to increase air circulation and sun exposure. Heading cuts stimulate growth in a desired direction.
Heading cut made to an outward growing bud to promote growth and direction. Photo Credit: David Lawrence, Auburn University
Open Center Training
An open center tree consists of a main trunk and three to five scaffold branches. Scaffold branches are the primary branches originating from the main trunk. These scaffold branches will produce the fruiting wood. At planting, a heading cut should be made to the main trunk about 30 inches above the soil line. This cut will promote lateral growth (scaffolds). If the tree already has lateral growth at planting, three to five scaffold branches can be selected at this time and the heading cut should be made just above these branches. Scaffold branches will be selected during year two of growth if no scaffolds were on the tree at planting. Heading cuts, removing about a 1/4 of each branch, should be made on all selected scaffold branch about a 1/4 inch above an outward growing bud. From the third year of growth and beyond annual maintenance pruning will be performed to maintain the open center growth habit. All damaged or diseased wood, suckers, and water sprouts should be removed. Large branches growing from scaffold branches toward the center of the tree should be removed, along with any upright growth that will shade out fruiting shoots. Downward growth should also be removed. Heading cuts are to be made on remaining growth to encourage desired direction of growth based on bud direction. Excessive fruit wood should be thinned to promote larger fruit and less fruit thinning.
A peach tree pruned with an open center. Photo Credit, University of Florida/IFAS Extension
Pruning peach and plum trees sounds a bit labor intensive, but once it’s part of routine maintenance it will reduce labor during the season and promote the growth of larger and better quality fruit.
by Joshua Criss | Jan 29, 2026
Whelp, the new year has come and gone. We find ourselves facing the beginning of a new gardening year. This naturally brings out the question of what can even be planted this time of year with all the cold that has set in over the last week? Luckily for you, IFAS has an answer with our North Florida Gardening Calendar. In this document, you’ll find several cool-season vegetables for planting, none the least of which is the humble potato (Solanum tuberosum).
UF/IFAS Photo: C. Hutchinson
A Brief History
Potatoes were originally domesticated in South America, specifically along the Andean mountain range. They were brought to Europe by Spanish explorers, where they were largely relegated to ornamental and livestock feed due to an association with the family Solanaceae.
This changed as European royals began to promote the crop widely. Most notably here are Fredrick the Great’s assigning guards to potato fields and Marie Antoinette’s use of potato flowers in fashion. The commoners noticed, and not long after, potatoes were seen on tables across the continent.
Due to its high nutritive value and ability to grow in poor soil, the potato supported population growth and quickly became a staple crop across Europe. In some areas, such as Ireland, this became a detriment as a single blight nearly destroyed the entire country.
Time for Local Growth
Potatoes have a rich history worldwide, but this small starchy crop can be grown even here in Northwest Florida.
Soil
Soil preparation is likely to be minimal in the Panhandle. Our soils are usually naturally acidic, which is perfect for your spuds. You will want to ensure that the soil is well-drained, and adding organic matter will likely provide some nutritional benefits. As always, the best way to determine fertilization is through testing. Potatoes are heavy feeders, and you’ll likely need multiple applications of nitrogen and potassium. Call your Extension Office for advice on both soil testing and fertilizer application.
Seed
Begin in January by selecting seed potatoes. You’ll likely see videos online of people using grocery-store potatoes as seed stock, but this isn’t advisable, as they may harbor more pathogens. Leave the seed potatoes in a lit room for a few days to break their natural post-harvest dormancy. At this point, some of the “eyes” may begin to sprout. Whether sprouted or not, the seeds may be cut into roughly egg-sized pieces. Ensure each piece has at least one eye. Allow them to dry out for a few days before planting.
Potato beginning to sprout photo: J. Criss
How To Grow and Harvest
Space the pieces around 6-8 inches apart, roughly 4 inches below the soil surface. When you see the sprout emerge from the surface, add a few inches of soil, a process known as hilling. Maintain adequate soil moisture and scout regularly for insect and pathogen signs.
Vines will begin to show signs of dieback around 80-115 days after planting. Allow the tubers to remain in the soil for another 2-3 weeks after this die-off. Discard any green potatoes and any remaining seed pieces. Dig the potatoes, and store them in a cool, dry place for an additional two weeks. After this, store them as you would store-bought potatoes, and they should be good for up to 6 months.
To Sum Up
Potatoes can certainly be a challenge for those who’ve never tackled them before, but mastering their growth is something for which every gardener should strive. For more information on this topic, consult this document. For any questions about this or any other horticultural concern, contact your local Extension Office.
by Donna Arnold | Jan 22, 2026
Photo Credit: Donna Arnold. FAMU Extension
As cooler weather settles across the Florida Panhandle, many homeowners refresh their landscape beds with plants that provide vibrant seasonal color. Ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala) and ornamental cabbage are reliable, eye-catching choices for fall and winter landscapes. Their ruffled foliage and colorful rosettes, ranging from deep purple and rose to creamy white deliver long-lasting visual interest throughout the coldest months, even after many other seasonal plants have faded.
Photo Credit: Donna Arnold. FAMU Extension
Why Choose Ornamental Kale & Cabbage?
Unlike flowering annuals, ornamental kale and cabbage provide colorful foliage rather than blooms. Their dramatic rosette shapes create strong focal points in landscape beds, containers, and entryway plantings. These cool‑season ornamentals thrive in the Panhandle’s mild winter temperatures and tolerate light frost, making them dependable choices for winter interest.
Planting & Care Tips
Planting Time: October through December for best cool‑season results.
Sunlight: Full sun brings out the richest pigmentation in the leaves.
Soil: Moist, well‑drained soil with added compost.
Spacing: 12–18 inches apart to allow the rosettes to fully develop.
Maintenance: Water consistently but avoid soggy soil; remove yellowing leaves; fertilize lightly.
Their care needs are minimal, making them ideal additions for busy homeowners seeking low‑effort winter color.
To Eat or Not to Eat?
Although ornamental kale and cabbage are edible, they are grown primarily for their appearance rather than flavor. Their leaves are typically tougher and more bitter than those of culinary varieties. While cooking can help soften the texture and reduce bitterness, most homeowners choose to enjoy these plants as decorative landscape features rather than as part of a meal.
Design Ideas for Winter Color
Photo Credit: Donna Arnold. FAMU Extension
Create eye‑catching combinations by pairing ornamental kale and cabbage with pansies, violas, and snapdragons. Pansies and violas add cheerful pops of color that blend beautifully with the textured rosettes. Snapdragons provide vertical accents that balance the low, rounded form of the cabbages. These combinations work well in mixed beds, large containers, or along entryways where color can be appreciated up close. For striking displays, try pairing purple kale with yellow pansies or white cabbage with deep blue violas. These pairings brighten winter landscapes and bring life back to garden spaces during the cooler months.
Pest & Disease Snapshot
Ornamental kale and cabbage are generally hardy but can be affected by a few common pests and diseases during the cool season. Aphids, caterpillars, and cabbage loopers may feed on foliage, causing visible holes and damage. In humid conditions or areas with poor air circulation, fungal diseases such as powdery or downy mildew may develop.
Prevent problems by practicing good garden sanitation, spacing plants to improve airflow, and avoiding overhead watering. UF/IFAS recommends using Integrated Pest Management (IPM) strategies, including hand-removal of pests, encouraging beneficial insects, and applying control measures only when needed to keep plants healthy throughout the season.
For more information contact your local extension office.
by Larry Williams | Jan 22, 2026
Q. My oleander shrubs are overgrown. How severely can they be pruned?
A. Oleanders flower on current season’s growth. So, if you prune just before new growth occurs, you’ll still get flowers. However, severe pruning (removing 1/3 or more of the plant), may result in the oleander not flowering for several years. Pruning severely causes a plant to put all of its energy into recovering the lost growth at the expense of producing flowers. But sometimes the need to severely reduce a plant’s size overrides the need for flowers. Oleanders can grow to a height of 10 to 20 feet with a spread of 10 to 15 feet.
Q. I have a holly bush that has grown too large. Will it recover if I prune it way back? I also have large azaleas that I trimmed back last year but they’re overgrown again. Can I trim them back severely again and have them recover?
A. Hollies and azaleas generally respond well to severe pruning. And they probably will recover. But, as you’ve experienced with your azaleas, plants are designed to grow to a certain height. When you prune to reduce their height, they will regain the growth, again and again. So, you may have a regular job on your hands in pruning these plants every year or so to maintain the desired height. To prune for the sake of reducing the height may result in fewer berries in the case of the holly, if it’s a female plant, and fewer flowers in the case of the azaleas. Eventually, you may decide to remove these overgrown plants and replace them with smaller maturing ones.
Consider replacing junipers that routinely grow over sidewalk instead of pruning to force them to fit. Credit: Larry Williams
The best time to severely prune, sometimes referred to as hard pruning (removing 1/3 or more of the height), is late winter (late February to mid-March), just before new growth occurs. When a plant becomes too large for its location, the problem goes back to planting the wrong plant in the wrong place. The plant is only doing what it is genetically designed to do. It’s a good idea to find out how large a plant grows (both in height and spread) before planting it. To plant a plant that is designed to grow ten feet in height where you need a plant that only grows three feet in height can result in having to routinely prune to “force it to fit.” Sever pruning is usually only a temporary fix as the plant still has the same root system it had prior to pruning. As a result, it usually will regrow to become in balance with its root system. Some shrubs such as boxwoods, junipers and arborvitae do not respond well to severe pruning.
