Gardeners:  A Critical Link to Protecting Our Water

Gardeners:  A Critical Link to Protecting Our Water

The joy of being outdoors in the yard and gardens is something many of us have the opportunity to receive and appreciate.  Observing nature at its best with the changes of seasons and all the activity, from birds visiting to vegetable and flower gardens to the healthy green lawns there is much to contemplate.  The environment in which we live is complex and ever changing and is a critical source to our quality of life.  One major source that links us all is water and the quality of it moving forward.  How are we addressing changes to this important resource and the unintended consequences that can follow?

How we garden and manage the landscape at home and possibly in a business situation seems small in comparison to the number of settings out there, but if enough people work to improve water quality the positive impacts can be significant.  Impervious surfaces that include paved driveways and walkways are areas that do not allow rain events or irrigation to infiltrate into the soil.  Creative solutions are out there to construct pervious surfaces.  Many acres of forest and wetlands have been lost to development impacting land areas like this to slow water movement allowing time for nutrients and sediment to settle and be absorbed into the soil and taken up by plants or sequestered in organic matter in the soil layers. 

We often think about the larger rivers and big bodies of water that include lakes, bays, gulfs, and oceans that shoulder the large scale of human activity.  It is often the smaller water sources that when combined multiple times as the tributaries involving creeks that lead to larger streams and rivers are often overlooked as having major impacts on water quality.  What we can do to assist is to better manage nutrients (fertilizers and others) involving lawns, trees, and shrubs in your landscape.  Work on improving soil balance through soil testing and following the recommendations to understand your soil types and plants that grow best in these settings.  Contact your local University of Florida Extension office located in your county for information to assist in this important process.

A waterfront buffer zone may include a raised berm with native vegetation to slow runoff from a yard before entering the water. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson

Creating planting buffers around creeks, ponds and lakes is critical to reducing nutrient entry links to these water sources.  Care must be taken when applying nutrients that include nitrogen and phosphorus to the lawn, gardens, and other landscape areas.  UF/IFAS Extension’s Florida Friendly Landscaping program recommends, if you are broadcasting fertilizer without a deflector shield, The Ring of Responsibility should extend at least 10 feet from the edge of water.  Be aware that fertilizer landing on hard surface driveways and sidewalks are subject to running off with rain events and potentially entering these water sources. 

There is much more information available on this topic and it is highly recommended to do a little research via the smart phone and other ways to better understand the importance of how we address water quality moving forward.  Enjoy the great outdoors and appreciate all it has to offer. 

Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! Weed Wrangling Wrap Up

Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! Weed Wrangling Wrap Up

Weeds can be the bane of the gardener’s existence and Extension Agents get a lot of questions on how to manage them throughout the year. Whether you are growing edibles, ornamentals, or turfgrass you have probably encountered a plant out of place which is basically the general definition of a weed. Just like with any other landscape challenge the first thing you need to do when dealing with weeds is accurate identification.  Understanding the life cycle of the pest (weed in this case) you are targeting will be key for the most effective control with minimal inputs. Your local Extension office can assist with weed identification, and you can find a list by county here.

If you missed the live broadcast, you can watch the video on YouTube

Below are the links that were shared during the episode in the order discussed if you would like to follow along:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/wg059

  • Nonchemical Weed Control for Home Landscapes and Gardens

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS1170

We have one more episode of Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! scheduled this year on October 12th. We hope you will join us for Herbs and Cool Season Edibles!

Logo Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE!
Spiders in the Landscape and Garden

Spiders in the Landscape and Garden

Unknowingly we interact with many small creatures in our everyday lives. Spiders are one of these groups that are beneficial to the function of human activity.  This group receives much publicity as being dangerous to people and our pets.  While there is always a possibility of being bitten and having venom injected by a few types of spiders, most all others are harmless to people.  The primary benefit of spiders is their propensity for catching insects outside and in the home that are identified as harmful to people.  Spiders come in all shapes and sizes with many hiding away, never to be seen by people.   

Spiders are often included in the same group as insects, but this is not true.  They belong in the group arachnids and are closely related to ticks, scorpions and mites.  Spiders have two body sections (cephlothorax and abdomen) and have eight legs while insects have three body sections (head, thorax and abdomen).  Scorpions usually remain outdoors and may be found indoors during hot dry periods.  They are nocturnal hunters of pests that include roaches.  None of the scorpions native to Florida are capable of providing a lethal sting, but it is painful when it occurs, leaving a sore and swollen at the sting area.  I was reminded of this after stepping on one in the late evening while moving around the kitchen with no lights on.  If the person that is stung has allergic reactions to bee stings, observe them and take precautionary health measures needed.

The spider is an important predator of harmful insects and can be found about any where in and around the home, in the garden, and many other places in the great outdoors.  An Extension Entomologist I knew from North Carolina State University always mentioned, when presenting to Master Gardener Volunteer classes, that at almost any time given time, we are within two to three feet of a spider, with most so small we never see them.  They are great at keeping the beneficial and harmful insect populations in balance in nature.

If you decide to spray to manage your spider population, keep in mind that by reducing the number of spiders in the landscape, you can create a reverse problem with harmful insect populations increasing dramatically.  If big webs are a bother, simply take a broom and knock them down.  They will rebuild by the next day, but you may not need to be in that area for a while.  Always be careful and wear gloves when working in the garden, especially areas that are dark and covered, such as irrigation valve boxes, wood stacks, and other similar places.  These are prime locations where the Black Widow or Recluse spiders may be set up, waiting to ambush roaches and other insects.  If you are bitten by either seek immediate medical care. 

Finally, spiders are fun to observe in nature! One of the most interesting spiders to watch is observable during fall in Florida – the Yellow Garden Spider.  They build large webs and often place a zig zap signature in the middle.  This large spider catches many insects in the garden and landscape.  With early morning sunlight and dew hanging on the web during the fall, it makes for a beautifully create piece of art.  Enjoy nature and all the creative processes that occur from a safe distance – spiders included!

Pesticide Labeling: A Guide for Users

Pesticide Labeling: A Guide for Users

Pesticides can be helpful tools in the home landscape and garden, helping to protect fruits, vegetables, and landscape plants from pests. While pesticides can be valuable tools in controlling pests, their improper use can pose risks to human health, beneficial organisms, and the environment. One crucial aspect of responsible pesticide use is understanding and interpreting the pesticide label. The label provides information on how to mix, apply, store, and dispose of a pesticide product to ensure the safety of the user and the environment.

First, it’s important to recognize what a pesticide is. A pesticide is a chemical substance or mixture used to kill or repel pests. Pests can include insects, weeds, plant pathogens, nematodes, mold, nuisance animals, and other organisms that can injury crops, plants, structures, or cause harm to human health. If you are unsure whether a product is considered a pesticide or not, the label will have an Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) number listed. This number is the EPA’s stamp of approval for the product to be sold and used as a pesticide (Figure 1).  In the example shown in Figure 1, the EPA registration number is found on the back page of the pesticide label.

Figure 1. Example of EPA Registration Number found on a pesticide label.

 A pesticide label is the information on or attached to the pesticide container and is more than just a piece of paper. This document is a legal document. If you’ve contacted your local Extension office for pest control assistance, you’ve likely heard “follow the label – the label is the law” repeatedly. That is because the label is a contract between the product manufacturer, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and the end user.

What information does the label contain?

Brand or Trade Name: The brand, trade, or product name is used to identify and market the product. It is found on the front panel of the pesticide label. For example, in Figure 2, the brand name of the pesticide is “Complete Insect Killer”. Different manufacturers may use different brand names to market products, even if the same pesticide active ingredient is used.

Active Ingredient: The active ingredient is the chemical that is responsible for killing, repelling, or controlling the target pest. The front panel of the label identifies the name and percentage weight of each active ingredient.

Child Hazard Warning: The front panel of every pesticide label must have the statement “KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN” due to poisoning being a major cause of injury to children.

Signal Word:  A pesticide label must also display a signal word on the front panel of the label to identify the relative toxicity of the product. Since all pesticides are poisons to some extent, it’s important to note that they do pose some risk. The signal word is based on the entire contents of the product, not just the active ingredients. Signal words are:

  • DANGER: Highly toxic
  • WARNING: Moderately toxic
  • CAUTION: Slightly toxic
Figure 2. An example of the front panel of a pesticide label.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): The type of clothing that must be worn during the handling mixing process to protect the applicator from harm.  

Statement of Practical Treatment: The statement of practical treatment or first aid statement, describes what to do if a person is exposed to the pesticide.

Directions for Use: This section of the label is the bulk of a pesticide label. This section provides detailed instructions on how to correctly apply the pesticide, including the site where the product may be used, application method, amount of pesticide that should be applied, timing of application, and frequency. It will also contain information on restrictions (if any) on product use including weather, time of day, season of year, contamination of sensitive areas, etc. Applying a pesticide to a site not listed on its label is illegal.

Storage and Disposal: Each pesticide has general storage and disposal instructions. Most pesticide labels will contain a general statement to the effect of “do not contaminate, water, food, or feed by storage, disposal, or cleaning of equipment” and “store in original containers only”. This section of the label provides guidance on how to store the product safely, including temperature requirements, shelf-life, and precautions to prevent contamination. It also outlines guidelines for disposing of unused pesticides or empty containers to prevent environmental harm.

Pesticides can be a valuable tool if used correctly. The first step in using a pesticide safely is to read the product label to learn about how the product may be used. For more information on understanding pesticide labels or for assistance with interpretation, please contact your local Extension Office.

Incredible Crinums

Incredible Crinums

It’s always nice to find an easy-to-grow landscape plant that stuns with its beauty. The many varieties of Crinum lilies do just that and are a great addition to the north Florida landscape. Crinum lilies are not truly a lily, but a member of the Amaryllis family which also includes other familiar north Florida landscape plants such as onions (Allium), agapanthus (Agapanthus), daffodils (Narcissus), and other “lilies” such as spider lily (Hymenocallis) and hurricane lily (Lycoris). While there is one species of Crinum that is native (Crinum americanum), most of our cultivated species originate in Africa and/or Asia.

Crinums are considered to be among the largest of the true bulbs. Most should be treated with caution since they can be poisonous to children and pets, mostly through ingestion of plant tissue. Their leaves are typically long and strap-like with a glossy green color. The flowers are the real treat, appearing on the ends of bare stems, typically held above the plant’s foliage. The flowers can be used for cut flowers, too.

Below are some of the more common Crinums that can be successfully grown in north Florida:

Crinum asiaticum

Giant Crinum, or poison bulb, is the largest of the Crinums and one of the more common ones to see in the landscape. The bright white flowers with showy, purple-tinged stamens are impressive.

The giant Crinum’s stunning bloom. Credit: Mark Tancig

Crinum zeylanicum

This Crinum is often called the milk-and-wine crinum for the white and red striped flowers.

The milk-and-wine Crinum. Credit: The Trustees of the British Museum, Creative Commons.

Crinum x amabile

The Queen Emma Crinum is a hybrid of the first two – C. asiaticum and C. zeylanicum. It has the size and shape of giant Crinum with maroon-tinted flowers and leaves.

The Queen Emma Crinum. Credit: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Creative Commons.

Crinum moorei

This Crinum goes by the common name natal lily and is native to the southern horn of Africa. This species has wider leaves than most with the natural flower color being a light pink. There is a white-flowered cultivar named ‘Alba’.

Crinum moorei, variety ‘Alba’ used in a container. Credit: Erik Taanman, Creative Commons.

Crinum x powellii

This Crinum is a hybrid between C. moorei and C. bulbispermum. The most common cultivar is the ‘Cecil Houdyshel’ which has fragrant, rose-colored flowers.

In the landscape, these can be used as specimen plants, especially the giant Crinum or Queen Emma Crinum, or planted in mass. They all prefer full sun but wouldn’t mind afternoon shade, and can handle partial shade, though blooms may be less showy. Most prefer moderately-drained soil, but can handle sandy sites with irrigation, especially during dry times. These plants come from warm climates and may get zapped by our winter cold snaps. Fortunately, their bulbs, have stored energy to flush out new growth the following spring. Pests and diseases are few, with grasshoppers and leaf spots in the summer being the main concerns.

There are many hybrid Crinums available to experiment with but look for those that are hardy to Zone 8. You can read more about Crinums on the UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions website or contact your local county extension office.