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Southern Field Peas, a Summer Delight

Southern Field Peas, a Summer Delight

Southern Peas, Image Credit UF / IFAS gardening solutions

Southern Peas, Image Credit UF / IFAS gardening solutions

Cowpeas are one of the most important food legumes in the semiarid tropics covering Asia, Africa, Southern Europe, and Central and South America.

A drought-tolerant and warm-weather crop, cowpeas are well adapted to the drier regions of the tropics, where other food legumes do not perform well. It also has the useful ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen through it its root nodules, and it grows well in poor soils with more the 85 percent sand and with less than 0.2% organic matter and low levels phosphorus.

A farmer might call them cowpeas. A grocer might call them black-eyed peas. A restaurant waitress might call them field peas. But they are all talking about the same vegetable the southern pea. If you think you’re confused now, wait until you see some of the other names for this vegetable. My information was provided by Emeritus Extension Vegetable Specialist, Jim Stephens, of the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences and Okaloosa county director Larry Williams.

A good part of the confusion over southern pea variety names is due to the fact that gardeners can easily save their own southern pea seeds. Over the years, true varietal identity gets lost. So, gardeners think up new local names for the Southern pea varieties that grow. As the seeds are spread around, what started out as a single variety may become known by several names. Added to this fact that there are so many recognizable southern pea varieties and it’s easy to see how confusion can result.

Some years ago, more than fifty southern pea varieties and strains were identified through scientific testing.  Since then, plant breeders have added many more varieties to that old list.

Southern Pea Plant, image Credit UF / IFAS gardening solutions

Southern Pea Plant, image Credit UF / IFAS gardening solutions

Today, eleven southern pea classifications are recognized. By looking for the characteristics associated with each grouping, gardeners usually can come fairly close to identifying unknown seed stock. With the exception of the purple hull group, southern pea classification is based mostly on the color of the seed and seed eyes and the spacing of the seed in the pods.

Varieties are called Crowder’s if the seeds are spaced so closely that the seed color varies. The color can be general over the entire seed coat or it may be concentrated around the seed eye. Colorless varieties are called creams.  The purple hull group includes varieties with some purple coloring on their pods, even though they may fit into other groups due to seed characteristics.

As I said, there are III Classification Groups – The Black-Eyes, The Black-Eye Crowder’s, The Colored-Eyes, The Colored-Eye Crowder’s, The Purple Hull group, The Black Crowder’s, The Brown Crowder’s, The Speckled Crowder’s, The Creams, The Cream Crowder’s, and The Field Forage Group. To make matters even more confusing Southern peas also can be classified according to plant growth habit. Pea plants may be bush, top pick, vining, or semi-vining types.

Southern peas recommended for North Florida includes Black-eye No. 5, Cream 8, Cream 12, Knuckle Hull, Magnolia, Pink Eye, Purple Hull, Texas Cream 40, White Acres, Top Pick Eye Purple Hull, Top Pick Cream 40, Sadandy and Zipper Cream.

Southern peas can be planted in our area in the spring, summer, or fall. For more information on how to grow Southern Peas, contact your local county extension office and see Publication SP 103, Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide.

 

Fall Tomato Selection

Fall Tomato Selection

Photo Credit: Blake Thaxton

Photo Credit: Abbie Seales Rolph

One of the many great thing about living in Florida is the long growing season that the climate affords to gardeners. For up to 8 months a year warm season vegetables can be grown. The colder months are mild enough to grow other crops as well. Although most gardeners tomatoes are suffering from the extreme heat of the middle of Summer, fall preparations can begin for tomatoes.

Keeping in mind the first frost is likely to arrive at the beginning of November seeds need to be planted very soon. In general most varieties wont be ready for 70 days after transplant into the garden. To be sure to get a good harvest, fall tomatoes should be planted close to August 1st. This planting date gives a target first harvest of mid October.

There are lots of varieties to choose from. photo credit: Blake Thaxton

There are variety to choose from. photo credit: Blake Thaxton

The heat of August and the beginning of September can induce stress on the plant and inhibit fruiting. Because of this it is a good idea to choose “hot-set” varieties. These varieties are more tolerant to high temperatures. Typically tomatoes set fruit at temperatures of 65° to 85° Fahrenheit. “Hot-set” hybrid varieties have been selected for the ability to produce at temperatures slightly above that range. A few to look for in seeding catalogs and on seed company websites are Phoenix and Solar Fire.

To learn more, read Tomatoes in the Florida Garden or call you local extension office.

You Can Propagate Memories

You Can Propagate Memories

There are a number of plants in my landscape that bring back fond memories – plants that I propagated.

Red Mulberry. Photo credit: Vern Williams, Indiana University, bugwood.org.

Red Mulberry. Photo credit: Vern Williams, Indiana University, bugwood.org.

There’s a mulberry tree in my backyard that I rooted years ago. I took the cuttings from an old mulberry tree in my hometown. As a boy, I climbed the tree, got in trouble once for coming home with mulberry stains on my clothes. I liked the berries and still do. I have good childhood memories about the tree.

About twenty years ago I visited the property adjacent to my childhood home. The tree was still there. It was during mulberry season. I enjoyed a few mulberries. I took about eight or ten cuttings from the tree. About a year after my visit, the property sold. The new owner bulldozed the tree.

But because of the cuttings that I rooted, the tree still lives and not just in my memory. The trees produced by those cuttings are genetically the same as the parent tree. Essentially, they are clones. The one in my backyard produces mulberries each year.

You too can propagate memories. Not all plants can be propagated from cuttings but many can be. Sometimes trial and error is necessary to learn proper timing in taking cuttings. But most reliable references will provide the time of year to take cuttings based on the plant species.

Stem cuttings should be removed from the parent plant with a clean, sharp knife or pruner. Ideally your cutting should be 4-6 inches in length and not much thicker than a pencil in diameter.

Take the bottom two-thirds of leaves off on each cutting. The cuttings should be stuck upright in a propagation medium. I usually use a good quality potting mix and mix in a little course sand or perlite for better drainage. The cuttings should be inserted deep enough to hold them upright, usually ½ to 1 inch.

To help promote rooting of moderate to difficult to root plants, wound the cuttings by scraping the lower ½ to 1 inch of the stem with a clean, sharp knife. The scrape should remove the bark or “skin.” Then dip the cutting in a rooting hormone covering the scrape with the rooting powder prior to inserting the cutting into the rooting medium.

I usually use a four inch pot, gallon size pot or bedding plant flat with drainage holes as a rooting container. I may stick as many as ten stem cuttings in a gallon size pot. I place the container of cuttings in a shady location outdoors and keep it moist. The cuttings should produce roots in two to sixteen weeks, depending upon plant species and the environment.

After the cuttings have rooted, carefully remove them and individually plant each rooted cutting in its own four inch to one gallon size pot. Keep the potting medium moist but not soggy. After the roots adequately fill the pot, the plant should be strong enough to be planted in the ground.

As your rooted cuttings grow, hopefully they will provide fond memories.

Protecting Precious Species From Pesticides

Protecting Precious Species From Pesticides

Two-Headed-Frog-32476

There are more than 100 species of plants and animals living in Florida that are in danger of extinction.  These trees, flowers, reptiles, amphibians, birds, fish, mammals and invertebrates are listed as either threatened, endangered or species of special concern.  As stewards of the land we must question, “What could the loss of a torreya tree, a lupine, a salamander, a butterfly, a woodstork, a right whale, a manatee, a sea turtle or a black bear do to our environment and our quality of life?”bear closeup

Biological diversity is the variety and variability of species present in an ecosystem including the complex interactions of the many species.  Regardless of their size or apparent significance, each species has a role in the circle of life and the food web.  Preservation of all species is important.  No one knows which ones hold the answers to the future of human existence on this planet.

Many significant developments in medicine have come from obscure plant and animal species.  Modern day research includes a vaccine against leprosy being developed because of the nine-banded armadillo and horseshoe crabs being used in developing laboratory tests and finding remedies for several bacterial diseases.  In agriculture, genes from wild species may provide the resistance for plant diseases, insects or even weather extremes that could save us from crop failure or possible starvation.  There is an interdependence among living things.  The extinction of one species may have a domino-like effect on other species.  Stability of an ecosystem depends on bio-diversity.

To protect our future and the future of wildlife, the Endangered Species Act became federal law in 1976.  This act is intended to protect and promote recovery of plants and animals that are in danger of becoming extinct as a result of human activity.  The Environmental Protection Agency is responsible for ensuring the endangered species are protected from pesticides.

Pesticides can kill endangered plants and animals directly or indirectly. Birds mistaking them for food may eat granules, baits or treated seeds.  Water contaminated with pesticides ranging in concentrations of less than 0.1 to 1.0 parts per million (ppm) can kill fish.  Animals that eat treated crops, drink or wade in contaminated water or feed on tainted prey can be killed indirectly.  Some pesticides can build up to lethal levels as predators consume multiple poisoned prey species.backpack spraying

There are certain things you can do to lessen the harmful effects of pesticides on fish and wildlife.  Read all pesticide labels carefully to find out whether the use of the product requires special steps to protect endangered species.  Determine if the site is designated as the current habitat of an endangered species.  Find out this information by visiting http://www.epa.gov/espp/ and http://myfwc.com.  When you have a choice of pesticides to use, choose one that is less or non-toxic to fish and wildlife.  Read and follow the “Environmental Hazards” section and use the special precautions and measures to minimize harmful effects.  Treat only the areas that need to be treated.  Leave a buffer zone (untreated area) between bodies of water and treated areas.  It is your legal and moral responsibility to protect endangered species by careful use of pesticides in and around their key habitat areas.

 

Information for this article was derived from University of Florida publications “Pesticide Effects on Nontarget Organisms” by Frederick Fishel and “Applying Pesticides Correctly” by Thomas Dean and Norman Nesheim.

 

Design Your Own Butterfly Garden

Design Your Own Butterfly Garden

Butterflies are not only beautiful to look at in your landscape; they serve as important pollinators and indicators of the health of our environment. Attracting them to your garden and incorporating some features to get them to stay and make it their home involves a little planning ahead of time for optimum results.

Queen butterfly. Photo credit: Milt Putnam, UF/IFAS.

Queen butterfly. Photo credit: Milt Putnam, UF/IFAS.

Choose a location that provides some protection from wind. Trees and shrubs that provide wind protection also serve as a safe harbor from rain and predators. The garden should be mostly sunny with some part sun areas. Ensure that any new plantings have access to a convenient irrigation source so they can be successfully established and maintained in good health.

Now you’ll need to choose the plants. Adults feed on the nectar of many flowering trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals and, fortunately, there are usually many choices that will meet your site requirements and your taste preferences. In order to keep the butterflies in your garden, certain plants need to be available to serve as host plants for their young. Determine which species of butterfly is common in your area and that you want to attract. Most species have very few plants on which the caterpillars can feed so those host plants need to be chosen wisely. Determine whether any of the plants you already have are host plants and they can be integrated into your butterfly garden. For example, cassia is a host plant for the Cloudless Sulphur and citrus is a host plant for the Giant Swallowtail.

In choosing your nectar plants, select those that are native or Florida-Friendly as they are lower maintenance, giving you less trouble in the long run. Choose plants that have flowers in a variety of color, size, and shape. Different butterflies like to feed at different elevations, so choose trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals of varying heights. In order to have nectar available throughout the time when the butterflies occur, include plants that bloom at different times of the year. And include some plants that bloom from spring to late fall, like pentas or moss verbena.

Larger plants should be placed in the background with smaller plants layered in the foreground.  When you plant smaller annuals and perennials, place them in masses to better attract the butterflies.  Consider placing host plants in an area that is in close proximity to the nectar plants, but in an area of your garden that is not a focal point. Host plants can get quite ragged looking from hungry caterpillars!

Good maintenance practices will enhance the health of your garden. Regular fertilization and irrigation if needed will help keep your plants in bloom and healthy; healthy plants are less susceptible to disease and pests. Avoid pesticides as they may harm the very creatures you are trying to attract. Never use Bt or systemic pesticide.  If you must, target a pest with lower risk oils or soaps and then only treat the affected plants. Lastly, be aware of beneficial insects that will help you achieve satisfactory control of a pest.

Now that your plants are placed there are several things to do to make your butterfly garden complete. Add a spot where water can puddle on the ground for the adult butterflies to drink. They require minerals from the soil that get dissolved in the water. Also add a rock or log in a sunny spot where butterflies can rest and sun themselves. And consider placing a comfortable place for you to sit and enjoy the beauty of your garden and its inhabitants!

For more information:

Butterfly Gardening in Florida