by Beth Bolles | Dec 24, 2013
For best root development, thin carrots to 2-3 inches between each plant.
Many common cool season vegetable garden plants are started in raised beds by direct planting of seeds. It is important to follow the guidelines in the ‘Monthly Vegetable Planting Guide’ (Page 6) for plant spacing and seed depth. It is possible to thin out seedlings that are growing too close, but seeds that are planted at the incorrect depth may not germinate.
Vegetable seedlings will need to be thinned out after germination to allow for adequate space for leaf or root development. Crowded vegetables will compete with each other for water, nutrients, and sunlight and never produce quality plants.
Here are some tips for thinning seedlings:
- When plants are about 1 to 2 inches tall or have two sets of ‘true leaves’, it is time to thin out any crowded plants.
- Look up the proper spacing between plants and thin out appropriately.
- Pull out seedlings with fingers or forceps to make space or use small
scissors to cut off seedlings at the ground level.
- It will initially look like there is lots of room between seedlings but realize plants will grow quickly to utilize all available space.
by Taylor Vandiver | Nov 11, 2013
As I made a visit back to my hometown in North Alabama I was reminded of the subtle changes from fall into winter, which are not always apparent to me living in Tallahassee: the vibrant palette of leaves as they make their permanent descent until spring, the litter of spent cotton along each highway and county road and the annual pecan harvest that has been a tradition in my family for as long as I can remember.
Due to the variations in climate and topography from upper Alabama to the panhandle of Florida, our seasons can differ greatly. However, I know of one entity that remains a constant and that is the availability of pecans. Pecan trees (Carya illinoinensis) are a common sight throughout the South. They can be spotted as far west as Texas and as far north as Illinois. The pecan tree is native to the Mississippi floodplain, which has deep, fertile, well-drained soils. Before the arrival of Europeans, Native Americans used pecans as a primary food source for thousands of years.
What’s more, pecans have major economic value. The annual value of pecans in the United States is estimated at 200 to 500 million dollars. Florida produces from five to ten million pounds of pecans annually. The majority of that pecan production acreage (6,500 acres) can be found in North Florida. While the nut is the main attractant of the tree, there’s not much that warms the heart more than seeing pecan pie at the dessert table on Thanksgiving.
A well worn recipe for southern pecan pie that has been passed down through my family.
Pecan trees are deciduous, which means that they drop their leaves in the winter. An additional consideration for those planning to install pecan trees is to be aware that they are wind-pollinated and that their male and female flowers often do not mature at the same time. Therefore, in order to ensure the possibility of high yields, two or more cultivars should be planted together for cross-pollination.
Be sure to choose a variety like ‘Elliot’ or ‘Curtis’ that has good disease resistance, is suited for North Florida and will cross-pollinate well. Plant pecans during the colder months to allow for root growth before spring. The optimum soil pH for pecans is 5.5 to 6.5. At the lower end of this range, micronutrient deficiency symptoms should be less common. Pecan trees should start producing decent crops in six to twelve years. A tree at maturity can reach up to seventy feet tall so plan spacing and placement accordingly.
Pecan tree planted by my great-grandparents in Monrovia, Alabama.
For more information please consult Pecan Cultivars for North Florida or contact your local UF IFAS county extension office.
by Mary Salinas | Nov 4, 2013
For centuries, people annoyed with plant pests have used oils to control insects, mites, and even some fungal diseases. Current oil products are better than ever!
Sample oil products for pest control. Photo by Mary Derrick.
Commercially available horticultural oils are mineral oils from refined petroleum products. Impurities are removed and then an emulsifying agent is added that allows the oil to mix with water for application. Neem oil is a newer product that has become increasingly popular; the oil is an extract of the seeds of the neem tree.
What are some of the advantages of using an oil for pest control?
- Oils are inexpensive and easy to apply
- Oils can be used on most plants (check the label for a list!)
- Oils control a wide range of pests that feed on plants (again, check the label for a list of pests the product will control!)
- Oils pose a low risk to people, pets, and desirable beneficial predators
- Since oils kill pests by blocking their breathing holes (spiracles) and/or gumming up their mouthparts, there is no chance for resistance to develop
- One product can control both insects and some diseases like powdery mildew at once
- Oils can be combined with some other pesticides to provide greater control
[warning] Don’t combine with, or use within 30 days of, any sulfur based pesticide. The combination can harm your plants![/warning]
There are always drawbacks to a product. What are the drawbacks?
- Some plants (including cryptomeria, junipers, cedars, maples, and redbud) are damaged by oils – check the label!
- Ensure good coverage during spraying as pests must be contacted with the oil in order for the control to work
- Oils break down quickly and reapplication may be necessary
- Check the label for instructions on the temperature range when it can be used. Older formulations generally are safe when temperatures are in the 40 to 80°F range but ultra-fine oils can generally be safely applied during hotter weather.
For further information:
Natural Products for Insect Pest Management from UF IFAS Extension
Insect Control: Horticultural Oils from Colorado State University Extension
Less Toxic Pesticides from Clemson University Cooperative Extension
by Alex Bolques | Oct 25, 2013
The avid gardener has heard on many occasions that fall is the best time of the year to plant trees and shrubs. Correct! Now is the time to start a fruit orchard or an edible landscape. As the seasons transition into much cooler weather, now is the ideal planting season for hardy trees, shrubs and ground covers (Trawick, 2013).
In the fall, plants require less water to get established and stress factors associated with planting in full sun are reduced. Although weather is cool, soil temperatures continue to be warm enough throughout the season to promote root growth. Thus by planting in the fall, the plant becomes more established by having a better and more vigorous root system than a plant that is planted at springtime.
Deciding what to grow sometimes is limited by what is available in a given area. Mail and online sales can be tricky if for those unaware about which fruit species perofrms best in Northwest Florida. To aid in this planning process, a link to a University of Florida IFAS publication (HS1218) is included that contains a directory of certified Florida nurseries offering fruit and nut crops. While it was developed to assist farmers locate fruit and nuts cultivars in Florida, it is helpful to begin thinking about what to grow and where to find it. The publication also lists recommended fruit and nut species and cultivars for North Florida, including north-central Florida.
Fruitscapes is a University of Florida website dedicated to fruit trees in Florida, which will increase understanding of fruit tree cultural and pest management requirements for all readers. Also explore “Temperate Fruit Crops” . Bookmark this webpage and refer to it as needed. Also, consult with your county extension office in your area.
by Mary Salinas | Aug 23, 2013
Add the easy-to-grow garden nasturtium to your vegetable or flower garden!
Dress up a ho-hum salad with a vibrant blossom or two just like some of the high-end restaurants. The first taste you experience will be sweetness and then a pleasant peppery flavor emerges. Not only can you eat the flowers but the leaves can also be tossed into your salad and the immature seed pods can be pickled and eaten similar to capers.
Photo courtesy of the Mendocino Coast Botanical Garden
Garden nasturtium, known to botanists as Tropaeolum majus, is an annual that originated in the Andes of South America. Seed and plants are commonly found in garden centers, although a greater variety is available when purchased from seed catalogues or online. A variety of cultivars are available, from dwarf bushy types to climbing or trailing types. Perky blooms in vivid shades of orange, yellow, pink and red are often produced in abundance.
This annual is easy and fast to grow from seed. If transplanting from small potted plants, make sure not to disturb the delicate root system during the transplant process. Give them partial to full sun and regular watering, even though they are drought tolerant. They prefer a lighter, sandy, well-drained soil and don’t perform as well in dense, rich soils. Be careful with the fertilizer as too much nitrogen will produce lots of green foliage but few blooms.
[warning]Aphids like to feast on the succulent flowers and foliage as well, so be diligent in scouting for this pest. Control is usually adequate by dislodging them with a spray of water or insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soap will cause the aphid to try out and dessicate. Be careful to spray the undersides of the leaves as well for complete control. Make sure to apply products that are safe for food crops and follow all label instructions.[/warning]
In the Florida panhandle, garden nasturtium can be a part of the garden year-round. However, they generally decline and stop flowering with the onset of the full brunt of the summer heat unless a bit of afternoon shade is available. When planted late in the fall, they are susceptible to frost damage but often will recover.
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For more information from the University of Florida, please see:
Garden Nasturtium, Tropaeoleum majus L.
Gardening in a Minute: Nasturtium
by Matthew Orwat | Aug 19, 2013
Florida Pecan Field Day and Florida Pecan Growers’ Association Annual Meeting
Jefferson County Extension Office 2729 West Washington Street
Monticello, Florida 8:30 AM, EDT
Thursday September 5th
Harvest time is coming for Florida pecan growers. Demand is up, irrigation needs are down, and fungus pressure has been a serious problem over the entire Southeast.
Producers will meet in Monticello on Thursday, September 5 for the annual field day and Pecan Growers’ Association meeting. If you’re a pecan grower, or just considering it, the morning’s topics and speakers will be a great opportunity to learn more about the pecan business.
The agenda is below. For more information, contact Jed Dillard at 850-342-0187
or dillardjed@ufl.edu. Please make a lunch reservation by noon Tuesday, September 3.
Agenda-
- 8:30 Registration
- 9:00 Welcome……… Mark Brown, President Florida Pecan Growers Association and Jed Dillard, Jefferson County Extension Agent
- 9:10-9:45 “Florida Water Policy and Its Impending Effects on Pecan Production” ……. Carlos Herd, Director Division of Water Supply, Suwannee River Water Management District
- 9:45-10:15 “Management strategies and tactics for suppression of pecan arthropod pests: chemicals, trap crops and everything in between.”
- Dr. Russ Mizell, University of Florida Entomologist, Quincy
- 10:05-10:35 “Controlling scab and other pecan diseases” Dr. Tim Brenneman University of Georgia Department of Plant Pathology
- 10:35-10:55 Break
- 10:55-11:25 “Tree Spacing, Alternate Tree Pruning and Removal, and Tree Transplanting”. Dr. Lenny Wells, UGA Extension Pecan Specialist, Tifton
- 11:25- Noon “Direct Marketing of Pecans – What do I need to Know?”…………..Elena Toro, Suwannee County Extension Agent
- Noon…………… Sponsored Lunch
- 1PM Annual Meeting Florida Pecan Growers’ Association
- 1:15 Tour (Tentative)
- CEU’s: two half ceu’s for ag row crop, tree nut, private applicator and demonstration categories
