Ben Hill Griffin Stadium or “The Swamp” – http://www.gatorzone.com/facilities/?venue=swamp&sport=footb
Generally as Extension Agents we do not write interest type articles for this newsletter, but I thought I would mix it up this week and write on two of my favorite things and how they relate. My first love growing up in north Alabama was college football. I would spend hours reading statistics about my favorite players and watching old recorded ball games when there was not a live game on. I was always a small guy so playing the sport I became enamored with as a child was not an option unless I craved pain, which I did not.
One of the greatest attributes of college football is the traditions that each school have formed along the way. This is where my education and discipline come into play. Horticulture is the major I chose in college. I did not have much experience in Horticulture prior to this decision, but I always enjoyed the outdoors and found it a satisfying thought to work there in the future. The way that college football and horticulture work together is more than just the care of the perfectly manicured athletic turf fields that are so commonly found in major college football. Horticulture is deeply ingrained into the traditions of college football and here are a few of my favorites.
The Ohio State Aesculus glabra‘s
Ohio State is one of the only college teams I know who’s team name is named after a species of tree. The tree of course being the Ohio Buckeye or Aesculus glabra. Settlers of Ohio found the tree to be the only one they were unfamiliar with in the forest. Although it may seem strange that they have named athletic teams after a tree the explanation is pretty good.
…in general, the trees and their nuts are of little practical use: the wood does not burn well, the bark has an unpleasant odor, and the bitter nut meat is mildly toxic. Still, the tree has grit. It grows where others cannot, is difficult to kill, and adapts to its circumstances. Daniel Drake, who gave a witty speech on behalf of the buckeye at a well attended dinner in Cincinnati in 1833, said, “In all our woods there is not a tree so hard to kill as the buckeye. The deepest girdling does not deaden it, and even after it is cut down and worked up into the side of a cabin it will send out young branches, denoting to all the world that Buckeyes are not easily conquered, and could with difficulty be destroyed.”
Tailgating at the Grove – http://www.olemisssports.com/sports/m-footbl/spec-rel/gameday-thegrove.html
Tailgating is as much a part of the Southeastern Conference is the actual football games. College football is an all day experience not just a 3-4 hour event in the south. From what I understand Ole Miss takes it to another level tailgating in the historic Grove. The Grove took some foresight by a Chancellor named Robert Fulton. Apparently Chancellor Fulton took much pride in the aesthetics of the University and when the library was built on the outer edge of campus in 1892 he extended the campus some ways to the railroad with plantings of trees and a privet hedge around what would be known as “The Grove”. Now on game days in Oxford, Mississippi the Grove will be found with hundreds of tailgating tents with fine china and chandeliers. This is a spectacle I have yet to see in my time as college football enthusiast, but I imagine it would be quite a sight for the horticulturist.
The Grove has 40 species according to the University’s map. An arboretum is what the grove is and it is a shame that Ole Miss does not have a degree in horticulture because this would be the ultimate outdoor classroom.
Under the Live Oaks that once stood on Toomer’s Corner – http://family.auburn.edu/profiles/blogs/president-jay-gogue-accepts-plan-to-plant-new-toomer-s-oaks
I am partial to this tradition and its significance as Auburn University is my Alma Mater and the college football team I loved as a child. I have great memories celebrating big wins at the corner of College St. and Magnolia St. throwing toilet paper into the Live Oaks that once graced the corner. Of course if you are not a fan of college football you may not know the story of how the beloved oaks were destroyed I will let you read elsewhere on how this occurred.
I have talked to fans and others associated with other colleges and they told me how the Toomer’s Oaks weren’t what they expected. The legend of Toomer’s corner has been spread far and wide by the media and when opposing fans come to see the corner where the University meets the town they found two Live Oaks that are not the most healthy looking trees and not near the size they imagined in their heads. Well the fact is that the Live Oak is not the best selection for a tree in Auburn, Alabama. Live Oaks are better adapted to coastal areas. Majestic large live Oaks can be found in Mobile, New Orleans, and Savannah; and that is probably why fans of visiting teams were somewhat disappointed by the Live Oaks that were so legendary. Although not the best selection those trees did hold a special place in many Auburn people’s hearts, but I am sure their replacement will be adored just as much once reaching mature size. Hopefully a better suited species will be chosen.
Georgia – “Between the Hedges”
Former UGA Football Coach and Horticulture enthusiast, Vince Dooley – http://sports.espn.go.com/ncf/news/story?id=4552978
“Between the Hedges” is a tough place to play football if your team is not named the Georgia Bulldogs. Sanford stadium in Athens, Georgia is the home field of the University of Georgia. When the stadium was being built Charlie Martin, an athletic department official, wanted to beautify the stadium with rose hedges like he had seen at the 1926 Rose Bowl in Pasadena, California. Martin was given advice by several Horticulture professors that Rose hedges did not stand a chance in the climate that Athens, Georgia endures. The alternate was Chinese Privet, which most people would consider a weedy shrub. After a team comes into Sanford stadium and wins a big game it has become customary to clip off a piece of the hedge to take home.
One last tradition I would like to introduce you to that I find interesting and has a little bit of Horticulture inspiration is Kansas University’s “Waving the Wheat”. Just watch the video:
What are some traditions that have horticulture involved that I may have missed? Leave a comment below!
For centuries, people annoyed with plant pests have used oils to control insects, mites, and even some fungal diseases. Current oil products are better than ever!
Sample oil products for pest control. Photo by Mary Derrick.
Commercially available horticultural oils are mineral oils from refined petroleum products. Impurities are removed and then an emulsifying agent is added that allows the oil to mix with water for application. Neem oil is a newer product that has become increasingly popular; the oil is an extract of the seeds of the neem tree.
What are some of the advantages of using an oil for pest control?
Oils are inexpensive and easy to apply
Oils can be used on most plants (check the label for a list!)
Oils control a wide range of pests that feed on plants (again, check the label for a list of pests the product will control!)
Oils pose a low risk to people, pets, and desirable beneficial predators
Since oils kill pests by blocking their breathing holes (spiracles) and/or gumming up their mouthparts, there is no chance for resistance to develop
One product can control both insects and some diseases like powdery mildew at once
Oils can be combined with some other pesticides to provide greater control
[warning] Don’t combine with, or use within 30 days of, any sulfur based pesticide. The combination can harm your plants![/warning]
There are always drawbacks to a product. What are the drawbacks?
Some plants (including cryptomeria, junipers, cedars, maples, and redbud) are damaged by oils – check the label!
Ensure good coverage during spraying as pests must be contacted with the oil in order for the control to work
Oils break down quickly and reapplication may be necessary
Check the label for instructions on the temperature range when it can be used. Older formulations generally are safe when temperatures are in the 40 to 80°F range but ultra-fine oils can generally be safely applied during hotter weather.
As we leave Halloween season, one of the most popular images of this spooky time of year is that of a bat. The creepy tales of vampire bats and Dracula are enduring and certainly exciting. Unfortunately, many negative connotations exist around this fascinating species. Perhaps you’ve heard they carry rabies, that they will fly into your hair, or that many of them are considered blood-sucking vampire bats? In fact, there are many benefits to having bats in one’s landscape and neighborhood. The predominant role of bats in our local ecosystem is that of insect predator. A single little brown bat (Myotis lucifugis), which is native to the Florida Panhandle, can eat 1,200 mosquitoes in one hour of feeding! Many species eat moths that would otherwise cause destruction to agricultural crops and home vegetable gardens. Other species in warmer climates eat fruit and play a major role in re-foresting rain forests in Central and South America—after digesting the fruit they leave seeds in their droppings (guano is excellent fertilizer, by the way), helping replant 95% of the very trees they feed upon. Some species feed on nectar, filling the same role as bees and helping pollinate bananas, avocados, cashews, and figs.
A young bat roosts along the bricks of a UWF campus building last summer.
Contrary to popular belief, bats are not blind and many have excellent vision. However, they do rely heavily on echolocation to sense prey and are extremely accurate hunters. They often fly erratically because they are chasing very small flying insects, so the only reason one would end up in a person’s hair is if a mosquito flew through it with a bat in chase! While vampire bats do exist, of more than 1,200 species of bats in the world there are only 3 that feed on blood, and they all live in Latin America. They also tend to feed on the blood of livestock. Human contact with bats is rare unless the bats are sick, which is why one found on the ground should be left alone. Rabies transmission from bats accounts for only one death per year in the United States—a statistic much less than that of deaths from dog bites, bee stings, and lighting strikes! In fact, several towns in Texas with the highest populations of bats in the country have recorded zero human bat-transmitted rabies cases.
These 4-H campers built bat houses to provide shelter for bats in their neighborhoods
Bat populations are declining in North America due to disease (particularly white-nose syndrome), loss of habitat, and the slow reproductive cycle of bats. However, you can help the world’s only flying mammal by installing a bat house in your yard. Keep in mind that bats attracted to bat houses prefer to be in open areas away from trees (where their predators hide), and the house should be installed at least 12 feet in the air. Bat houses can be purchased or built rather simply—keep an eye out for Extension workshops near you, or check out the publication “Effective Bat Houses for Florida” online. In addition, Bat Conservation International’s website has a wealth of information on conservation projects worldwide.
The avid gardener has heard on many occasions that fall is the best time of the year to plant trees and shrubs. Correct! Now is the time to start a fruit orchard or an edible landscape. As the seasons transition into much cooler weather, now is the ideal planting season for hardy trees, shrubs and ground covers (Trawick, 2013).
In the fall, plants require less water to get established and stress factors associated with planting in full sun are reduced. Although weather is cool, soil temperatures continue to be warm enough throughout the season to promote root growth. Thus by planting in the fall, the plant becomes more established by having a better and more vigorous root system than a plant that is planted at springtime.
Deciding what to grow sometimes is limited by what is available in a given area. Mail and online sales can be tricky if for those unaware about which fruit species perofrms best in Northwest Florida. To aid in this planning process, a link to a University of Florida IFAS publication (HS1218) is included that contains a directory of certified Florida nurseries offering fruit and nut crops. While it was developed to assist farmers locate fruit and nuts cultivars in Florida, it is helpful to begin thinking about what to grow and where to find it. The publication also lists recommended fruit and nut species and cultivars for North Florida, including north-central Florida.
Fruitscapes is a University of Florida website dedicated to fruit trees in Florida, which will increase understanding of fruit tree cultural and pest management requirements for all readers. Also explore “Temperate Fruit Crops” . Bookmark this webpage and refer to it as needed. Also, consult with your county extension office in your area.
Vermicomposting bin at the Leon County Extension Office.
It’s difficult to see, but our worms are hard at work composting leftovers!
Many home gardeners may have thought about composting, but may not have the time, the space or, let’s face it, the patience. Well then vermicomposting is ideal to satisfy those conditions! Vermicomposting is the process of using worms and micro-organisms to turn food waste into a nutrient-rich compost called worm castings. Worm composting bins can take up less space than traditional composting bins and can even be kept inside.
Bins can be purchased or made at home, for those who want to compost on a budget. If the home gardener is planning on making their own there are a few things that should be considered. Make sure that the container won’t absorb too much water (such as cardboard), because worms need to stay moist. The container should also be made of a non-clear material. A good example would be 1-18 gallon plastic (not clear) container or a Styrofoam container with a lid. Holes need to be drilled about 4 inches from the top of the bin. Covering the air holes with a type of screen is a good idea to prevent the escape of the composters.
After the bin has been constructed bedding (shredded newspaper, etc.) will need to be placed at the bottom. The bedding should be moistened and then potting soil added on top of that. This will provide a good living habitat for your worms. The Number of worms that need to be added will depend on the container size. When getting worms, make sure to use red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) or African Nightcrawlers (Eudrilus eugeniae). Unlike earthworms found in the garden, these worms thrive in composting bin conditions. They can usually be found at bait stores or local worm farms.
Now its time to put them to work! Worms can be fed daily or weekly. One pound of worms can be fed about half a pound of kitchen scraps per day. When adding scraps avoid using animals products like eggs, cheese or meat. The ideal meal should include small scraps of vegetables, fruits, coffee grounds, bread and paper. When adding the scraps be sure to bury them under the soil. Store the worm bin in an area that does not receive direct sunlight and stays at a constant temperature of about 60 to 80 degrees. Be sure to have a lid for your container, this will keep light out and will also help prevent the appearance of flies. One pound of worms can turn 65 pounds of garbage into garden compost in about 110 days. Compost should be harvestable in a matter of months!
Vermicomposting is a great way to compost for those living in an apartment or those that have kitchen scraps as a main source of compost materials. Worm castings are used just like normal compost. Add them to plants and gardens as a soil amendment, use them in potting soil, or make a compost tea.
Every fall gardening season, Florida homeowners enjoy growing their own vegetables but are faced with cold weather issues. As early as November 1, a chance of frost is possible in Northwest Florida.
Most Cole Crops can be planted until November, but they must be protected from the cold weather or they will need to be replaced. A good variety of hardy plants should be planted in order to prevent total devastation of the garden by extremely cold weather. If tender plants are used, the following considerations must be observed.
Site selection for tender plants is the number one factor to be considered when preparing for a freeze. Vegetable plants need a site with good air drainage, and somewhat high in elevation relative to the area; not in a low area where cold air settles. Arranging tender plants along a barrier to protect them from cold winds improves the plants cold protection, especially from very hard freezes. Another factor to consider is that poorly drained soils result in weak shallow roots which are more susceptible to cold injury.
Plants grown with the correctly applied rate of nutrients will tolerate colder temperatures better and recover from cold injury faster than plants grown with little to no nutrients. Watering vegetable garden plants before a freeze can help protect plants. A well-watered soil will absorb more solar radiation than dry soil and will re-radiate heat during the night. This can improve hardiness by as much as 2°F. However, saturated soil conditions can damage the root systems of most plants over a few days, so make sure the ground is well-drained.
Healthy vegetable plants are more resistant to cold than vegetable plants weakened by disease, insect damage, or nematode damage. Routine inspection for pests and implementation of necessary control measures are essential. Feel free to contact your local county extension office for information on pest identification and recommended controls.
Plastic or cloth coverings can help protect vegetable plants more from frost than from extreme cold. Covers that extend to the ground and are not in contact with the vegetable plants’ foliage may reduce cold injury to the plant. If the vegetable plant foliage is in contact with the cover it is often cold burned or injured because of heat transfer from the foliage to the colder cover. Some examples of excellent plant covers are cloth sheets, quilts, commercial row cover such as “remay”, or black plastic. If plastic covering is used, it is extremely important to remove the covering during the day to provide ventilation of trapped heat. Failure to do so will result in certain death to the vegetables. To learn more on cold protection of vegetable plants please visit this EDIS article on frost protection.
