by Matthew Orwat | May 6, 2014
Wash-out in blueberry field, young planting. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Washed out row in young blueberry field. Image Credit: Matthew Orwat
Although the central Florida panhandle has been hit with excessive rainfall this spring, the blueberry yield this year is on track to be above average. Colder winter temperatures coupled with wet spring weather has enhanced the yield potential of properly tended and well established planted blueberries. If you have a few established blueberry plants in your home orchard, the outlook looks bright. If you do not, don’t fret. There are plenty of U-Pick operations and local farmers market vendors that will have berries available June through July, at great prices!
Blueberries do best planted in low pH soil on slightly sloping ground. This prevents the collection of water and resulting root rot in areas with poor drainage. While this situation is ideal for established blueberry plants, this slightly sloping situation can cause issues for newly planted blueberries. Field wash-outs caused by excessive rainfall can wreck newly planted rows, because the pine bark added to the planting trench is less dense than soil.
After all this rain, what should the home gardener do to ensure a productive harvest this summer? Addition of fertilizer will help. Although blueberries usually require low fertilization rates, if leaves show yellowed edges, red spots or general yellowing, fertilizer may have leached out. Application of a few ounces of ammonium or urea based fertilizer around the root zone (24 inch) of established plants may be beneficial. It is a good idea to look for “Blueberry Special” blends or “Camellia & Azalea” fertilizer. To learn more about blueberry fertilization, consult the Blueberry Gardener’s Guide.
A drier May will help blueberries produce their greatest sweetness as they develop. Late May and June rains could cause fruit split, so less rain during this period is desired!
Blueberries developing for harvest, a month away. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Blueberry bush, full of developing fruit. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Washed out rows of young blueberries. Note healthy established plants in the background. No washout due to established root system. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Emergency drainage ditch dug to reduce wash-out damage from field runoff. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
by Larry Williams | Feb 11, 2014
Dormant Peach Tree. Image Credit UF IFAS Environmental Horticulture Department
It is hard to believe with all of this recent cold weather, but now is the time to plant fruit trees in the Florida Panhandle. When planning what type of fruit tree to plant, correct cultivar selection should be the top priority.
The dooryard fruit producer oftentimes finds it difficult to choose the correct fruit cultivar for this area. An inappropriate choice results in disappointment when home gardeners find that they have paid for, planted and cared for fruit trees that are not adapted to the Northwest Florida climate.
Weather is probably the most important factor determining where certain fruits can and cannot be grown.
Most fruits which grow in the northern part of Florida are deciduous, which means that during the winter the trees lose their leaves and go into a period of dormancy, or rest.
During this rest period, the tree must be exposed to chilling temperatures. This exposure to the cold prepares the plant to resume active growth in spring. Temperatures below 45°F accumulated throughout winter determines the total hours of chilling. Species differ in the amount of chilling they need. This is known as a plant’s chilling requirement. Lack of enough chill hours result in sparse foliage and little to no flower production. And if there are no flowers, there will be no fruit.
North Florida receives between 400 to 650 hours below 45°F during the average winter. This provides enough chill hours for a few apple cultivars such as Anna, Ein Shemer, Dorsett Golden, TropicSweet and Shell. However, it does not provide the chill hours required for many of the more common varieties such as Red Delicious and Golden Delicious.
This same environmental factor holds true for most deciduous fruit trees. For example, some of the better known peach cultivars, such as Elberta and Bell of Georgia, perform poorly here following most winters. Both require roughly twice as many chill hours as the Panhandle receives during most winters. There are a few peach cultivars that perform OK in our area.
Blackberry Fruit. Photo Credit: Theresa Friday, Santa Rosa County, UF IFAS Extension
The results of selecting the wrong cultivar is only one of the disappointments experienced by those wishing to grow fruits in North Florida. Even when the correct cultivar is selected, many fruit enthusiasts (people who have dreams of homemade peach cobbler, apple pies, plum jelly, etc.) are disappointed to see insects eating their fruit, diseases causing their fruit to rot or possibly all their fruit falling to the ground before it is ready to be eaten.
In order to be successful with fruit production in North Florida, a person needs to ask a lot of questions before planting the first plant.
- Which cultivars grow well here?
- How much care is needed to grow this type of fruit?
- Do I have the time to devote to pruning, spraying, fertilizing and watering?
If you don’t know the answers to these questions, talk to a knowledgeable employee at a local, reputable nursery, consult the Dooryard Fruit Selection publication, or call your UF IFAS Extension Office before choosing to plant fruit trees this winter.
by Blake Thaxton | Feb 4, 2014
February is not a month many think of as a big gardening month, although the preparation and maintenance practices performed in February can be critical to the success of an orchard for the rest of the year. Stone Fruit (Peaches, Nectarines) in particular need special care in the dormant season. During the dormant season pruning must be done to develop the best shape for the stone fruit species to bear fruit. Also, because of the disease pressures associated with stone fruit in Northwest Florida, some chemical sprays need to be added to the agenda in order to control disease and insect pests.
Pruning
Santa Rosa County Master Gardener Pruning a Stone Fruit tree at the WFREC
Peaches and Nectarines should be pruned to an open center or vase shape. This will allow a well distributed fruit set to develop and will keep the crop load at a controlled amount that can produce quality fruit. During the first year of dormancy a main scaffold (3 or 4) should be chosen to form the open vase shape structure that is desired. The desired scaffolds should be 6 inches apart vertically and sit at a 45° angle from the trunk of the tree. At the second year of dormant pruning, two to three secondary branches should be selected off of each scaffold branch. Remove all of the other secondaries off of the scaffolds and prune back the selected secondaries to 20-36 inches. The following video by the North Carolina Extension Service will give a good idea how Peaches and Plums need to be pruned.
For more information on pruning: Training and Pruning Florida Peaches, Nectarines, and Plums
Dormant Spray
This time of year trees are dormant, so action is critical to stay ahead of disease and insect pests. Peaches and Nectarines need to be sprayed with several products in order to help guard against Scale insects and Mites, Bacterial Spot, and Leaf Curl. Dormant or horticultural oils need to be applied twice 10-14 days apart for Scale and Mites. Oil efficacy is determined by coverage, as the material suffocates pests. Oil sprays need to be performed when temperatures are between 40º and 85º F. Do not apply oil after bud break. A copper based fungicide labeled for stone fruit can be sprayed at this time of year for Bacterial Spot and a sulfur based product or Chlorothalonil need to be sprayed for leaf curl control. Do not apply copper products after blooms or leaves appear. Always follow the label when spraying products on fruit trees!
For more information on Peaches and Nectarines visit UF/IFAS Electronic Data Information Source.
by Carrie Stevenson | Dec 9, 2013
How much is a 400-year old live oak tree worth? Can you buy one online, with free shipping, and charge it to the credit card? Pick one up at the local home improvement store? Ask Santa? Of course not. When admiring a tree that size, we have an innate sense of its value, but we would often have a hard time expressing it in dollars. How about a cluster of trees in a wooded lot? Are they worth more than the dollar store being built there? We are conditioned to appreciate the value of things because there’s a price tag on them. Unfortunately, natural phenomena do not have price tags, and many things that are “free” are often perceived to have no real value.
Planting a tree is an excellent way to insure clean air and water in the future. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson
Trees, however, have value far beyond the price one might pay at a plant nursery. Their roots absorb polluted storm-water runoff, the primary cause of decreased water quality in Florida. Their leaves take in carbon dioxide and release the very oxygen we breathe. Providing homes for wildlife, fruit and nuts for human and animal consumption, compounds that form the basis of countless medications—trees provide innumerable benefits to ecosystems both local and worldwide. If a local government were to construct a facility or method that could filter the air and water at the same efficiency and volume of the trees in ones county, it would cost the community millions.
This street tree in Chicago was given a price tag to raise awareness of its value. Photo credit: Eric Stevenson
But how is is possible to capture these benefits in a way that we can relate to? Luckily, a partnership between arborists, engineers, and researchers with private industry, the US Forest Service, and the USDA has resulted in an excellent online tool called the National Tree Benefits calculator. Based on software called “i-Tree,” the calculator allows anyone to enter their zip code, choose from a list of common tree species, and using the diameter of a single tree, calculate its economic value. For example, a 15-inch live oak tree at the Escambia Extension office provides an annual benefit of $79 every year, increasing in value as it grows in girth and height. The website delves deeper into the tree’s value, placing storm-water uptake value at $23.77, electricity savings at $15.23, and the capability to remove 607 pounds of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere.
Extension Agents are currently working with youth in Escambia County to calculate these values for trees on their school campuses, local parks, and yards. When we’re finished, we will hang actual price tags on the trees showing their annual economic value to showcase these facts to residents of the community.
Interested in what kind of economic benefit that magnolia in the front yard is giving you? Check it out yourself at www.treebenefits.com, and let your neighbors know how valuable those trees can really be.
by Mary Salinas | Nov 4, 2013
For centuries, people annoyed with plant pests have used oils to control insects, mites, and even some fungal diseases. Current oil products are better than ever!
Sample oil products for pest control. Photo by Mary Derrick.
Commercially available horticultural oils are mineral oils from refined petroleum products. Impurities are removed and then an emulsifying agent is added that allows the oil to mix with water for application. Neem oil is a newer product that has become increasingly popular; the oil is an extract of the seeds of the neem tree.
What are some of the advantages of using an oil for pest control?
- Oils are inexpensive and easy to apply
- Oils can be used on most plants (check the label for a list!)
- Oils control a wide range of pests that feed on plants (again, check the label for a list of pests the product will control!)
- Oils pose a low risk to people, pets, and desirable beneficial predators
- Since oils kill pests by blocking their breathing holes (spiracles) and/or gumming up their mouthparts, there is no chance for resistance to develop
- One product can control both insects and some diseases like powdery mildew at once
- Oils can be combined with some other pesticides to provide greater control
[warning] Don’t combine with, or use within 30 days of, any sulfur based pesticide. The combination can harm your plants![/warning]
There are always drawbacks to a product. What are the drawbacks?
- Some plants (including cryptomeria, junipers, cedars, maples, and redbud) are damaged by oils – check the label!
- Ensure good coverage during spraying as pests must be contacted with the oil in order for the control to work
- Oils break down quickly and reapplication may be necessary
- Check the label for instructions on the temperature range when it can be used. Older formulations generally are safe when temperatures are in the 40 to 80°F range but ultra-fine oils can generally be safely applied during hotter weather.
For further information:
Natural Products for Insect Pest Management from UF IFAS Extension
Insect Control: Horticultural Oils from Colorado State University Extension
Less Toxic Pesticides from Clemson University Cooperative Extension
by Alex Bolques | Oct 25, 2013
The avid gardener has heard on many occasions that fall is the best time of the year to plant trees and shrubs. Correct! Now is the time to start a fruit orchard or an edible landscape. As the seasons transition into much cooler weather, now is the ideal planting season for hardy trees, shrubs and ground covers (Trawick, 2013).
In the fall, plants require less water to get established and stress factors associated with planting in full sun are reduced. Although weather is cool, soil temperatures continue to be warm enough throughout the season to promote root growth. Thus by planting in the fall, the plant becomes more established by having a better and more vigorous root system than a plant that is planted at springtime.
Deciding what to grow sometimes is limited by what is available in a given area. Mail and online sales can be tricky if for those unaware about which fruit species perofrms best in Northwest Florida. To aid in this planning process, a link to a University of Florida IFAS publication (HS1218) is included that contains a directory of certified Florida nurseries offering fruit and nut crops. While it was developed to assist farmers locate fruit and nuts cultivars in Florida, it is helpful to begin thinking about what to grow and where to find it. The publication also lists recommended fruit and nut species and cultivars for North Florida, including north-central Florida.
Fruitscapes is a University of Florida website dedicated to fruit trees in Florida, which will increase understanding of fruit tree cultural and pest management requirements for all readers. Also explore “Temperate Fruit Crops” . Bookmark this webpage and refer to it as needed. Also, consult with your county extension office in your area.
