by Taylor Vandiver | Apr 14, 2015
Rain gardens are an easy way to return water to our aquifer, reduce erosion, and help prevent stormwater runoff.
Running down the driveway or patio, rainwater can pick up lawn chemicals and pesticides. A rain garden is basically a low section of the landscape planted with native plants that like to get their “feet” wet. The garden collects rainwater, giving it a chance to “strain” out impurities before draining into the aquifer.
Swamp sunflower. Photo courtesy UF/IFAS.
They work best when they’re placed at the bottom of downspouts or naturally low spots in the landscape, usually where water tends to puddle. They’re especially useful for collecting runoff from paved surfaces. Rain gardens can be any size or shape and can attract thirsty wildlife.
When selecting plants, you’ll need to consider how much sun your site gets and how much space is available. Make sure you select plants that are not just water-tolerant, but also drought-tolerant for the times between rains.
Rain gardens rely on plants that will survive dry spells but then soak up excess stormwater during Florida’s rainy months, preventing the water from running across your landscape.
Blue flag iris. Photo courtesy UF/IFAS.
Include different types of plants in your rain garden to create a complete and cohesive look that will provide year-round interest. The following is a short list of flowers, shrubs, and grasses that would perform well in a rain garden.
Flowers:
- Blue flag iris
- Goldenrod
- Swamp sunflower
- Spider lily
- Milkweed
Grasses:
- Florida gamma grass
- Muhly grass
- Wiregrass
Shrubs:
- Virginia willow
- Buttonbush
- Wax myrtle
Here is a list of native plants that will do well in your North Florida rain garden. As always consult your local Extension Office for more information. All of the information in this article was provided by UF/IFAS Extension.
by Eddie Powell | Apr 14, 2015
Growing wholesome, healthy vegetables in a container are a way of life these days. Here are some easy and less expensive tips for creating that bucket garden.
- In a large container or on a plastic mat on the ground, mix garden soil and compost in a 2:1 ratio. Two scoops of soil and one of compost, add the recommended quantity of slow release fertilizer from product label
- Drill 6 to 8- ½ inch holes in the bottom of the 5-gallon buckets. Make sure that the buckets did not contain toxic materials!
- Line the bottom of the bucket with gravel. You may substitute broken pottery or sticks that are broken in short links
- Fill the bucket to within 3 inches of the top of the container
- Place container in sunny spot that will allow drainage
- Plant chosen vegetable with two seeds in center of the container
- Water well and keep moist but not wet
- Place plant support around seeds
Plant requirements:
- Nutrients. Basic needs in plants are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K). These are listed on all fertilizers as a ratio, example – 8-8-8 contains 8% Nitrogen, 8% Phosphorus, and 8% Potassium and the remaining 76% is a filler. Soils contain many more trace minerals and they are listed on the fertilizer label including directions for use and amounts
- Sunshine or artificial sources of light (grow lights).
- Water. Soil must be kept moist but not wet. Wet soils will create root-rot and encourage fungus. Measure moisture by pinching the soil to see that the soil is moist but never wet. Adding water as needed; plants in hot areas will need much more water than plants in cool spots. Wilted plants need more water!
- Carbon Dioxide (CO2). Plants absorb CO2 and give off Oxygen making them VERY important to human and all animal life.
- Proper Temperatures. Plants will die when it is either too hot or too cold. Make sure that if your plants are outside and the temperature goes below freezing, the plants must be protected or brought inside.
Resources:
by Julie McConnell | Apr 13, 2015
New foliage of Japanese Plum Yew Photo credit: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
Trying to grow turfgrass in shaded areas is a losing battle but that doesn’t mean you have to settle for mulch in those dark areas of the landscape. There are many plants that will tolerate shady conditions found under the canopy of large trees, and some offer year round interest!
One of the most important aspects of site assessment is sun exposure. Plants need light, but do not all need the same amount or intensity.
If plants requiring full sun are planted in the shade, they tend to get leggy and do not flower well. Although they may live, they will not perform at their peak.
Shade loving plants grown in the sun may be stunted, show leaf scorch, and will struggle. Most shade plants can tolerate some filtered light or morning sun, but need to be protected from direct mid-day to afternoon sun.
So, what evergreen plants can add some color and texture to your shaded spots?
Golden tones of new foliage is what gives Autumn Fern its common name. Photo credit: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
Cast Iron Plants under a live oak tree. Photo credit: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
Japanese Plum Yew. Photo credit: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
Soft Caress Mahonia. Photo Credit: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
by Beth Bolles | Apr 7, 2015
One of the most commonly used shrubs in landscapes is the Indian hawthorn, Rhapheolepsis indica. Although not native to Florida, it can be a very attractive shrub when used properly in landscapes. Plants offer spring flowers in pinks and whites followed by berries that are a food source for birds.
Indian hawthorn as a single planting can be attractive.
Indian hawthorn plants in landscapes are susceptible to a couple of pests that create unattractive and unhealthy plants. A leaf spot fungus called Entomosporium leaf spot easily spreads from infected plants through irrigation and rainfall leading to leaf discoloration, leaf drop, and dieback of limbs. Scale insects can also be common on leaves causing yellowing and dieback. The fungal problem is difficult to manage on heavily infected plants but the scale can be managed with a low toxicity pesticide choice such as a horticulture oil.
A heavy infection of leaf spot fungi is often too difficult to manage when plants are routinely irrigated.
Most often the problems on Indian hawthorn, especially fungal, are the result of poor management. This shrub likes sun, well-drained soil, and no overhead irrigation. Once established, plants should need little supplemental irrigation and water should only be applied to the base of plants. Since plants normally form a rounded mound, there is also little need for pruning if planted in a correct spot and spaced appropriately when planting. Most landscape installations of Indian hawthorn space plants based on the gallon pot size and not the mature size of the plant which is about 3-5 feet in height and spread.
Indian hawthorn can still be a good selection for homeowners. Buy healthy plants without any signs of spots on leaves and don’t plant a monoculture of these plants in the landscape. If one plant does have serious pest issue it is easier to either treat or remove one plant versus a mass planting.
by Mary Salinas | Apr 6, 2015
Maybe you have been seeing the Chinese wisteria, Wisteria chinensis, sporting its lavender blooms along the roadways this time of year. This vine may add a pleasant splash of color to the green leafy backdrop, but this is an invasive vine that has escaped our yards and gardens and is spreading on its own in natural communities.
The University of Florida Assessment of Invasive Plants determined that this vine has caused long-term alterations in ecosystem processes and displaces native vegetation. According to the non-profit Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council (FLEPPC), Chinese wisteria is a category II invasive which means that the species has escaped cultivation and is spreading on its own into other unintended areas.
American Wisteria ‘Amethyst Falls’ at GCREC Teaching Gardens. Photo credit: UF/IFAS Extension.
Fortunately, there are several great alternatives to Chinese wisteria. A native vine, American wisteria, Wisteria frutescens, is a great alternative. The native cultivar ‘Amethyst Falls’ displays lovely fragrant lavender blooms in the spring and summer.
Evergreen Wisteria at the GCREC Teaching Garden. Photo credit: UF/IFAS Extension.
Another alternative is evergreen wisteria, Millettia reticulata, a twining vine (the stems twist around upright supports) that is semi-evergreen in the Florida panhandle. The deep mauve blooms appear throughout the summer months and persist often into the autumn.
So how do you get rid of the invasive Chinese wisteria? The vine can be severed at ground level and the stump immediately treated with a 25% solution of triclopyr or glysophate. There may be some resprouting of the vine from unaffected roots that would require retreating. Please click here for more details. The best time to control this vine is in the spring or summer when it is actively growing so that it will transport the herbicide to the roots and kill the plant.
For further information:
UF/IFAS Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants: Chinese Wisteria
UF/IFAS Assessment of Invasive Plants: Chinese Wisteria
FLEPPC: 2013 List of Invasive Plants
UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions: American Wisteria ‘Amethyst Falls’
UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions: Evergreen Wisteria
by Taylor Vandiver | Mar 24, 2015
It’s that time of year again, that time when your car changes color like a chameleon in order to mimic the surrounding landscape. Anything that stands still long enough will become coated with a light green to yellow dust. What is this dust you might ask? What you are seeing is pollen, a sure sign that spring has arrived and allergy season is here! The pollen that can be seen is from pine trees and is not a major contributor to allergies, but the invisible pollen from oak trees and other plants can wreak havoc on sinuses. And while you may be cursing the trees for causing your eyes to water and coating your car, it’s important to remember that plants need pollen in order to reproduce.
Pollen disseminating from a pine tree anther. Picture courtesy of http://supermanherbs.com/megadose-pine-pollen/
Pollen is disseminated from blooming trees and plants. The process of pollination develops new plant seeds. Pollen is dry and light, enabling it to float through the wind and travel several miles. Plants that depend on wind for dispersal have to produce massive amounts of pollen since only a small amount will actually result in seed production. Plants pollinated by insects don’t have to produce as much pollen because of the efficiency of the insects in distributing the pollen. Changes in the weather directly influence the amount of pollen and how it will affect allergy sufferers. Rain dampens pollen and reduces its ability to flow through the air. A freeze can also slow down a tree’s rate of producing pollen. Windy and warm weather can increase pollen amounts.
A Leon County allergy and asthma specialist stated that roughly 40 percent of the population suffers from pollen allergies. The best thing you can do if you are part of this 40 percent is to reduce your exposure to pollen. Here are a few ways you can keep your allergies at bay:
- Dry clothes in an automatic dryer rather than hanging them outside to avoid pollen collecting on clothing and being carried indoors.
- Consider limiting outdoor activities during the pollen season (Florida trees often release pollen from January to June).
- Stay inside during peak pollen times (from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.).
- Restrict outdoor activities during days with high winds and low humidity.
- Shower after spending time outdoors to remove pollen from hair and skin.
- Use air filters and clean regularly, or run an air conditioner and change the air filter frequently.
- Wear a dust mask when mowing the lawn, gardening, or raking leaves.
If you would like to know what trees are producing pollen in your area at certain times of the year you can visit this website http://www.pollenlibrary.com/State/Florida/. As always, feel free to contact your local Extension Office for more information.
