by Sheila Dunning | Jul 7, 2015
There are more than 100 species of plants and animals living in Florida that are in danger of extinction. These trees, flowers, reptiles, amphibians, birds, fish, mammals and invertebrates are listed as either threatened, endangered or species of special concern. As stewards of the land we must question, “What could the loss of a torreya tree, a lupine, a salamander, a butterfly, a woodstork, a right whale, a manatee, a sea turtle or a black bear do to our environment and our quality of life?”
Biological diversity is the variety and variability of species present in an ecosystem including the complex interactions of the many species. Regardless of their size or apparent significance, each species has a role in the circle of life and the food web. Preservation of all species is important. No one knows which ones hold the answers to the future of human existence on this planet.
Many significant developments in medicine have come from obscure plant and animal species. Modern day research includes a vaccine against leprosy being developed because of the nine-banded armadillo and horseshoe crabs being used in developing laboratory tests and finding remedies for several bacterial diseases. In agriculture, genes from wild species may provide the resistance for plant diseases, insects or even weather extremes that could save us from crop failure or possible starvation. There is an interdependence among living things. The extinction of one species may have a domino-like effect on other species. Stability of an ecosystem depends on bio-diversity.
To protect our future and the future of wildlife, the Endangered Species Act became federal law in 1976. This act is intended to protect and promote recovery of plants and animals that are in danger of becoming extinct as a result of human activity. The Environmental Protection Agency is responsible for ensuring the endangered species are protected from pesticides.
Pesticides can kill endangered plants and animals directly or indirectly. Birds mistaking them for food may eat granules, baits or treated seeds. Water contaminated with pesticides ranging in concentrations of less than 0.1 to 1.0 parts per million (ppm) can kill fish. Animals that eat treated crops, drink or wade in contaminated water or feed on tainted prey can be killed indirectly. Some pesticides can build up to lethal levels as predators consume multiple poisoned prey species.
There are certain things you can do to lessen the harmful effects of pesticides on fish and wildlife. Read all pesticide labels carefully to find out whether the use of the product requires special steps to protect endangered species. Determine if the site is designated as the current habitat of an endangered species. Find out this information by visiting http://www.epa.gov/espp/ and http://myfwc.com. When you have a choice of pesticides to use, choose one that is less or non-toxic to fish and wildlife. Read and follow the “Environmental Hazards” section and use the special precautions and measures to minimize harmful effects. Treat only the areas that need to be treated. Leave a buffer zone (untreated area) between bodies of water and treated areas. It is your legal and moral responsibility to protect endangered species by careful use of pesticides in and around their key habitat areas.
Information for this article was derived from University of Florida publications “Pesticide Effects on Nontarget Organisms” by Frederick Fishel and “Applying Pesticides Correctly” by Thomas Dean and Norman Nesheim.
by Sheila Dunning | Jun 23, 2015
Air potato (Dioscores bulbifera) is a perennial, herbaceous self-twining vine that can grow over 60 feet in length, enabling it to climb over and smother many native plants. The Florida Exotic Plant Pest Council (FLEPPC) lists air potato as a Category 1 invasive plant, which means that it has disrupted natural communities and ecological functions by displacing native plant species.
In 2012, a leaf feeding beetle (Lilioceris cheni) was introduced into South Florida from China for biological control of air potato. Although it is too early to determine any potential long-term impacts, the initial results have been promising. The larvae and adults of the air potato leaf beetle feed on the leaf tissue and occasionally the bulbils. The damage to the growing tips of the plant have dramatically reduced its ability to cover native vegetation. Extensive damage to air potato was evident within three months after the first release. Additionally, testing by scientists at the USDA/ARS Invasive Plant Research Laboratory in Fort Lauderdale concluded that the beetle will not complete development on any other plant found in Florida.
The female air potato leaf beetle lays an average of 1,200 eggs, which develop into larvae in about four days. The young beetles skeletonize the air potato leaves for the next eight days and then pupate into foam-like cocoons. Clumps of cocoons fall to the ground and the adult beetles emerge 13 to 16 days later. There can be a new generation of air potato leaf beetle every month while the weather is warm. For the winter, the adults hide in leaf litter and wait for spring.
The question now is: “How well will they survive through a longer, colder Northwest Florida winter?”. USDA scientists, UF Extension agents and citizen scientists in Bay and Okaloosa County hope to find out. Earlier this month, June 2015, air potato leaf beetles from the Hayslip Biological Control and Research and Containment Laboratory in Ft. Pierce were released into areas containing air potato. They will be monitored over the next year. Look for an update next summer.
by Eddie Powell | May 8, 2015
Florida soft scale. Photo credit: UF/IFAS.
Scale insects are one of the most serious problems homeowners face on ornamentals this time of year. The most common are armored scale, soft scale, and mealybugs. They cause damage by sucking plant fluids from the leaves, stems, and sometimes roots. Some species feed on the underside of the leaves which can appear as yellowing spots or chlorotic lesions. Heavy infestations can cause extensive leaf yellowing, premature leaf drop, branch dieback, and plant death.
The life cycle starts when the eggs are laid beneath a waxy covering or beneath the adult female. After the eggs hatch two to three weeks later, the nymphs (crawlers) move around the plant until they find a suitable feeding site. Crawlers then insert their straw-like mouthparts into the plant and begin to feed and grow. The male often develops wings and flies to locate a mate.
Armored scale nymphs. Photo: UF/IFAS.
Armored scale is distinct from other types of scales because they secrete a waxy covering over their body that is not attached to the body. The scale lives and feeds under this covering ranging 1/16 to 1/8 inch in size. They can be any color or shape, depending on the species. Armored scale does not produce honeydew.
Armored scale. Photo credit: UF/IFAS.
Soft scale also secretes a waxy covering but it is attached to the bodies. Soft scales vary in color, size, and shape. They are circular shaped and range from 1/8 to ½ inch in diameter. Because they consume so much plant sap, they excrete a lot of sugary liquid called honeydew. Honeydew is the sticky liquid found on the leaves.
Mealybugs. Photo credit: UF/IFAS.
Mealybugs are soft bodied insects that are often covered with cottony white filaments. They are 1/8 inch in size and feed on all parts of plants. Injured plants have discolored, wilted, and deformed foliage.
Sooty mold is caused when mealybugs and soft scales excrete large amounts of honeydew which provides an excellent medium for the growth of the black fungus. Sooty mold is not only unattractive; it slows down the growth of the plant as it interferes with photosynthesis. Over time, with the control of the insect population, the sooty mold will weather away. Ants can also play a big factor in controlling sooty mold as they will feed on the honeydew.
Sooty mold. Photo credit: UF/IFAS.
To control scale and mealybugs, avoid over-fertilizing and monitor your plants often. If the infestation becomes over-bearing, spray a fine mist of Horticultural Oil on the foliage. Avoid spraying in the summer heat because of damaging foliage. Other chemicals that can be used if necessary are Sevin dust and Malathion.
by Larry Williams | Apr 20, 2015
Mole cricket tunnels. Credit: N. Leppla, UF/IFAS
Many people treat their lawn with an insecticide when they see mole crickets in the spring or at the first sign of a brown area in their lawn. What they don’t understand is the biology of this pest.
Mole crickets spend the winter as adults in the soil. As temperatures warm in late February and March, adult mole crickets emerge and begin to mate. Male mole crickets construct a chamber in the soil and chirp to attract female crickets. Attracted females fly to the males. After mating, males die and females fly to a suitable area for egg laying. Mated females begin tunneling and laying eggs in the tunnels. They lay about four clutches of eggs in different areas, averaging 35 eggs per clutch. Female crickets die shortly after laying their eggs.
Use of insecticides during early spring is not recommended because:
- adult mole crickets are not easily killed
- they cause minimal lawn damage during the mating and egg laying process, and,
- reinfestation from subsequent flights is likely.
The best time to treat for mole crickets is during mid-June through July. This will be when eggs have hatched but before the nymphs (immature mole crickets) are large enough to do much damage. Proper timing of the insecticide application is very important to achieve control.
Mole cricket nymphs. Credit: J. Castner, UF/IFAS
If you are not sure if mole crickets are present, you can find out with a soap solution. Mix 1½ fluid ounces of a lemon scented liquid dishwashing soap in two gallons of water in a sprinkling can or bucket. Pour the soapy water over an area approximately four square feet and count the number of mole crickets that emerge. If they are present, it only takes several minutes for mole crickets to crawl to the surface after the soap treatment. Repeat the process around the yard where you suspect mole cricket problems. If you flush an average of two to four crickets per site, treat the lawn with an insecticide. Follow up with spot treatments if any crickets escape the first insecticide treatment. But don’t treat at all if there is no evidence of mole cricket activity.
There are a number of products for mole cricket control in home lawns. Look for insecticides that contain the following active ingredients: bifenthrin, carbaryl, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, imidacloprid , lambda-cyhalothrin or permethrin.
Before using any product for mole cricket control first identify the problem as mole cricket damage by using the soap flush technique. Then choose an insecticide that lists mole crickets on its label. And finally, read the container carefully for use directions, application techniques, irrigation requirements and precautions.
by Carrie Stevenson | Apr 7, 2015
These young Seminole bat pups were separated from their mother and extremely vulnerable in the wild. The local Wildlife Sanctuary nursed them to health. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson
As spring commences and young wildlife of all species are born, everyone’s favorite flying, furry mammal begins roosting season. Ideally, bats will find homes in trees, caves, abandoned buildings, and bat houses, but sometimes they end up in a home. I receive calls often about how to best remove or exclude a group of bats living in an attic or garage. While there are countless benefits (most notably, efficient insect control) to having bats in one’s landscape or neighborhood, most people prefer they not share their own home with them.
Bats have a slow reproductive cycle and declining populations in the United States, and are protected by several state laws. According to Florida Administrative Code 68A-9.010 under “Taking Nuisance Wildlife,” it is illegal in Florida to prevent bats from returning to any roosting location from April 16 to August 14. Female bats typically give birth during maternity season to one pup (or rarely, 2-3), which clings to the mother’s fur to nurse for their first few weeks and months of life. Being nocturnal, this means mothers and babies will be inside a dwelling during the day. Typically, if a homeowner is trying to exclude bats from a home, they will put up netting or seal a hole in an attic entry in the evening after bats have flown off to feed on insects at night. However, if this is done during roosting season, young bats left back in the roost while mothers are hunting can get trapped inside a building and will not survive.
This obviously has the potential to cause conflict between homeowners and the bat population. The Florida Fish & Wildlife Conservation Commission has regulatory oversight for bat-related issues, and they will work with citizens to arrange a positive outcome for both the property owner and the animals involved. Bats play an important role the ecosystem as efficient controllers of insect populations.
Unfortunately, bat populations are declining in North America due to a devastating disease called white-nose syndrome and loss of habitat. However, you can help these fascinating animals by installing a bat house in your yard. Keep in mind that bats attracted to bat houses prefer to be in open areas away from trees (where their predators hide), and the house should be installed at least 12 feet in the air. Bat houses can be purchased or built rather simply—keep an eye out for Extension workshops near you, or visit the UF Wildlife Ecology publication, “Effective Bat Houses for Florida” or Bat Conservation International’s website for simple instructions.
To learn more about bats and how to help them, visit this website or contact me or your local County Extension office!
by Julie McConnell | Feb 10, 2015
When talking about pest issues in the landscape, green industry professionals often refer to IPM or Integrated Pest Management.
Chinch bug damage to St. Augustinegrass. Photo: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
So what is IPM and why should it be used?
IPM is a combination of methods used to manage pests that has the least harmful effect on non-target organisms and the environment. The four categories of IPM are:
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cultural practices
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biological control
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mechanical/physical
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chemical control
There is not one perfect IPM plan for all landscape situations, but there are some key components to help develop one for any situation.
- Prevent pest problems – choose the Right Plant for the Right Place! Proper planting technique, choosing resistant cultivars, and good maintenance all contribute to overall health and can influence how likely plants are to survive disease, insect, or weed invasions.
- Scout for pests/damage – understand what pests are likely to target common landscape plants. For example, St. Augustinegrass is susceptible to attack by chinch bugs; know what to look for to spot an infestation early.
- Accurately identify the pest – it’s okay to ask for help with this! Your county extension office is a great place to start for both identification and control recommendations. Many times treatments are applied for the wrong pest and that is a waste of your time and money and it can make it harder to get a correct diagnosis.
- Follow control action guidelines – have a plan in place for threshold tolerance. How many pests/amount of damage is okay before
Chinch bug nymph. Photo: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
action is taken? What action will you take? Use least toxic methods first and combine the four methods listed above. If using chemicals, know how they work (mode of action) and be sure to rotate properly to prevent resistance.
- Evaluate and revise – continued scouting for pests will indicate if the method is working. Keep records so that you can make changes that will increase effectiveness.
If you are interested in learning more about Integrated Pest Management, visit the IPM Florida website .
