Gifts from your garden are an easy and thoughtful way to share something special with a friend or neighbor. They can be low- or no-cost gestures that tells someone you are thinking of them.
Many of us have annuals and perennials that reseed in the garden. If you have already saved seed, just package those up and make a label with planting details. Your label can be printed or homemade.
There are many native and Florida Friendly plants that offer seeds for you to share with friends. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
A few common plants that offer plenty of seeds include Rudbeckia, Zinnia, Blanket flower, Native milkweeds, and sunflowers. Just collect a few mature flower heads, separate the seeds from the debris and let the seeds dry out on a towel for a couple of days. Remember there are numerous sources of seeds locally and online that offer a large variety of flowers and edibles when you need a prepackaged gift. Just add in a recycled tray or homemade cups for starting seeds.
If you don’t have seeds available now, consider plants that can be divided from your garden. Stoke’s aster, daylilies, gingers, and Toadlily are just a few. Find a recycled pot for plants that have leaves or add ‘bulbs’ to a small decorative bag with a label.
For those with a green thumb, consider taking a few cuttings of easy to root herbs or annuals. These plants will be ready for a small 4 inch pot in a short time. If you are not able to easily root plantings, consider sharing a piece of a turmeric or edible ginger stems. These can also be purchased from the store for starting new plants.
A plant is often a lasting gift, offering positive memories and beauty in the garden.
Many herbs, like rosemary, are easy to start from cuttings. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
Fresh turmeric from the garden or store is easy to grow in a container. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
All gardeners dream of the perfect plant that requires no maintenance, comes back every year, and remains strikingly beautiful nearly year-round. There is one such plant in my landscape that I never have to fuss over and always looks the part. One plant stands unflinching through summer heat or winter cold. One plant is never fazed by excessive rainfall or parching drought. One plant remains unbothered by pesky insects or disease. That plant is Purple Heart (Tradescantia pallida ‘Purpurea’) and it will always have a place in my garden.
Purple Heart is a tender perennial groundcover native to tropical Mexico and, as its name might imply, purple is the primary hue the species adds to landscapes. A true all-round performer, Purple Heart offers stunning purple foliage and small purplish-pink, pollinator-attracting flowers from spring green up to the first killing frost. In some mild winters, Purple Heart even behaves as an evergreen in the Panhandle!
Purple Heart planting in July. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
Since attractive foliage is the primary draw with Purple Heart, siting it to maximize leaf color is important. For the deepest, most vivid shades of purple, plant in full sun; 6 or more hours of direct sunlight is ideal. Also, like many tropical plants, Purple Heart will look its best with ample moisture but, once established, is among the most drought tolerant options for Panhandle landscapes. I’ve found my Purple Heart stands look their best with occasional watering during extremely hot, dry periods, but other than that, they thrive on rainfall alone.
If there is a drawback to the species, it might be a little too vigorous and easy to grow. Because plantings can rapidly grow and expand, rooting along stems as it goes, Purple Heart can sometimes become weedy in landscapes. In my experience, Purple Heart plays nicely in the landscape with other perennials and isn’t aggressive to the point of choking out its neighbors. However, if you desire an extremely neat and orderly landscape, Purple Heart’s freewheeling nature might best be used as a spiller plant in large containers or planted in an area confined by hardscape features.
If you decide to color your landscape purple with Purple Heart, plants can be found for sale at nearly any garden center or nursery and are extremely easily propagated, making it a popular passalong plant – chances are you might know someone who would willingly share a cutting (or three) with you. For more information on this popular purple perennial or any other horticultural topic, contact your local UF/IFAS Extension county office. Happy gardening!
Most gardeners I know love to share plants. Propagating and dividing them can be just as much fun as growing them. Some of my favorite plants in the garden came from loved ones offering a cutting or telling me to dig up whatever I liked.
Lately, I’ve been thinking about how plants can serve as living memories of loved ones who are no longer with us. Many of the plants in my garden are there for that reason- some without me even realizing it. My home garden has become a small collection of plants and memories associated with those plants, and I am the proud keeper of their stories.
My dad’s fig tree came from a cutting of his grandfather’s fig tree. Newer varieties may yield more and resist disease better, but nothing compares to the fruit you grew up eating with your grandparents on the Fourth of July.
This year, for the first time, I got to enjoy hydrangea blooms from my late grandparents’ home. Before their house was sold, my aunt took last-minute stem cuttings from the bushes. After three years, they’re finally healthy enough to flower- and soon, I’ll take more cuttings to share with the rest of the family.
Sometimes, just being in the garden helps you feel closer to loved ones and the memories you shared. Even if it’s not the same exact plant, growing something they once grew can help you feel connected to them.
My great-grandmother always said you should have flowers growing in your garden so you can cut them and bring them to people when you visit. When I cut flowers from my garden for friends and family I feel like I am keeping her tradition going.
There are so many plants you can propagate and grow yourself. If you talk to someone who’s been propagating for a while, they’ll likely tell you that it’s as much an art as it is a skill. Try out different plants and methods to see what works best for you. Here’s a great video to get you started with the basics of plant propagation: FFL Plant Propagation Basics.
Are there any plants you grow because of a loved one? It’s never too late to start.
When a pea seed germinates, it goes through a series of stages: imbibition, activation of enzymes, and radicle and root emergence. Photo by Bogdan Wankowicz, Adobe Stock.
The Science of Germination
Navigating through a few recent hard freezes, the Florida Panhandle’s winter still holds its grip, but a shift is anticipated. As we transition into February and March, the temperatures are likely to soften, offering a milder embrace. Amidst this change, many gardeners eagerly anticipate the surge of new life. This phenomenon is deeply intertwined with the captivating science of germination. It is indeed an intricate process that transforms a dormant seed into a thriving plant.
The Germination Process
Tomato seedlings initially produce cotyledons, serving as temporary nutrient sources, followed by the emergence of true leaves, which engage in photosynthesis and mark the onset of lateral branching. Photo by Baharlou, Adobe Stock.
Germination is when a seed transforms into a seedling, ready to emerge from the soil. But what exactly is happening during this process?
Germination commences with the absorption of water, also known as imbibition. As water is absorbed, the seed swells, softening the seed coat and paving the way for the emergence of the embryo. This pivotal step activates enzymes within the seed, kickstarting the breakdown of stored nutrients, such as starches, into simpler forms like sugars. These nutrients serve as the fuel for the growing embryo until it can harness energy from the sun through photosynthesis.
The first visible sign of this process is the emergence of the radicle, the embryonic root that anchors the plant and facilitates water and nutrient absorption from the soil, establishing a solid foundation for growth. Following radicle development, the embryonic stem begins its upward journey, accompanied by the emergence of cotyledons, or seed leaves, that aid in nutrient storage during the initial stages of growth.
With the growth of leaves, the seedling gains the ability to engage in photosynthesis. This transformative process allows the plant to convert sunlight into energy, fueling further growth and development. The root system continues to expand and branch out, enhancing stability and enabling the plant to absorb water and essential nutrients from the soil.
As the plant progresses through stages of growth, it eventually matures to produce flowers and seeds, completing the life cycle. These seeds, in turn, hold the potential to initiate the germination process anew, perpetuating the cycle of growth and renewal.
Temperature’s Role in Successful Germination
Get a jump start on the spring gardening season by using full spectrum grow lights and heat mats to germinate and grow warm season crops, like tomatoes, indoors. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Temperature is a critical factor influencing the success of germination, serving as a cue for enzymes to initiate their performance. Seeds exhibit distinct temperature preferences, affecting both the likelihood and speed of germination. Understanding these preferences is essential for a thriving garden.
While some seeds, like peppers and tomatoes, flourish in warmer conditions, others, such as lettuce and spinach, prefer cooler environments. It’s crucial to identify the ideal temperature range for your chosen seeds to ensure successful germination. When planning your garden, closely monitor soil temperature and sow seeds at the appropriate time to align with their preferences. For instance, if you’re starting warm season seeds like tomatoes in winter, consider investing in heat mats, a greenhouse, or indoor full spectrum grow lights to maintain a consistent and favorable temperature for germination.
Optimizing germination and ensuring a successful start for your garden hinges on understanding the specific temperature preferences of your crops. Temperature not only influences whether a seed will germinate but also plays a significant role in determining the speed of germination, providing a valuable head start when appropriately managed.
Chilling Requirements for Some Seeds
Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflowers) benefits from cold stratification, a process that involves exposing seeds to cold conditions to break their dormancy and promote germination. Photo by Orestligetka, Adobe Stock.
Some seeds, like black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) and purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), exhibit a preference for a winter chill through a process known as stratification. This involves exposing seeds to cold temperatures before planting. It mimics the conditions these seeds would experience in their native habitats, breaking dormancy and promoting successful germination. If you’re growing seeds that benefit from cold stratification, consider simulating winter conditions by freezing them for at least a month before planting. Additionally, certain seeds benefit from wet stratification, where they are kept moist during the cold treatment.
While stratification is more commonly associated with perennial flowers and woody plants, there are some vegetable seeds that can also benefit from cold treatment. Carrots and beets may experience improved germination rates with a brief period of cold stratification. Keep in mind that while these vegetables may benefit from stratification, it’s not always necessary for successful germination. Many vegetable seeds are adapted to germinate without a cold treatment.
As we anticipate the arrival of spring, let’s not just see seeds as tiny dormant entities but as intricate biochemical wonders waiting to unfold. Germination is not merely a biological process; it is a testament to the resilience and adaptability of life. It is a reminder of the interconnectedness of all living things and the perpetual cycle of growth and renewal that defines the plant kingdom here on Earth.
As we eagerly anticipate the arrival of spring, it’s the perfect time to begin thinking about planning your garden. A key thing to do to help prep yourself is starting your seeds. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just beginning, having the right tools and supplies is crucial for garden success.
Photo Credit: Tyler Jones, UF/IFAS
Seed Trays and Containers
If you are intending to start seeds to plant between February and March, you will need to obtain seed trays or containers to germinate your seeds. Seed trays can come in different shapes and sizes, allowing you to accommodate for different types of seeds. When you have selected what seeds you are planting for this year, you will need to follow the seeding rates and spacing measurements on the back of the seed packet. You want to opt for a tray that has proper drainage to prevent any type of waterlogging, but still keeps some moisture to support seed germination. You will need a quality seed starting mix to create a strong foundation for your seeds to germinate in. Using a light weight media that will allow airflow is also important. When planting your seeds in the tray, smaller seeds can be broadcasted over the surface of your soil media and larger seeds will need to be covered.
Example of a seed tray. Photo Credit: Terri Keith, UF/IFAS Extension Jackson County
Temperature & Humidity
Correct temperatures and humidity are both very important for successful germination of your seeds. Some trays come with a clear plastic cover or “dome” to help regulate the temperature and the humidity in the soil media. This creates a “greenhouse” effect for your seeds. If you are having trouble controlling the humidity, you may consider poking holes in the cover if there is too much moisture in the soil media. Once the humidity is controlled, cover the holes with clear tape.
Your seeds will need warmer temperatures to aid the process of germination. A tool you might consider investing in is a heat mat. The heat mat lays underneath the seed tray and helps provide warm temperatures consistently during the day and night, keeping the soil media warm enough to allow the seeds to germinate properly. Most heat mats are electrical and will need to be plugged in, so starting your seeds indoors may be a better option during January and February. After the seeds have germinated and have grown to about 2 inches high, they will need to be thinned out and transplanted to a bigger container until the time is right to transplant them to your garden.
Organization
When planning any type of project, it is always important to stay organized. If you are planting different kinds of seeds in one tray, using labels to know which seeds were planted will help you after the transplants have grown to their desired height. Once you have planted all the seeds that will be used, storing them correctly for the next season is vital. Storing them in a temperature controlled environment that is free from excess moisture is crucial so that they stay viable for the next season. It is also important to keep stored seeds labeled with the packet they came from to know spacing and number of days to harvest for the coming year.
Arming yourself with the necessary tools and knowledge is essential to nurture your seeds into thriving plants. Whether you’re cultivating a windowsill garden or preparing for an outdoor oasis, knowing the key steps to starting your seeds will lay the groundwork for a great harvest.
The subject of plant propagation by leaf and cane is a continuation from my article on propagating plants by layering, written in late October. Plants can be generated in multiple ways with leaf and cane techniques emerging as a possible indoor winter and early spring project. Not all plants can be propagated with a leaf or parts of leaves. Fortunately, some of the plants that can are ones we all enjoy growing indoors or in protected areas outdoors, like a covered porch and other similar locations. Do an assessment of indoors windows with bright light and a few hours of sunlight for the best success. If you are fortunate to have a backyard greenhouse that is heated, you may want to try it there.
One of the simplest ways to grow a new plant is by clipping a leaf and petiole section off an existing plant that has certain characteristics you like (bloom color or the growth of the plant). African violets and sedum are plants that can be easily propagated in this manner. The length of petiole connected to the leaf should be around 1 ¼ – 1 ½ inches in length, this portion of the leaf will be planted in potting mix. I would suggest planting two in a small to medium sized container to increase the chance of a successful rooting and the new plant establishing. When the new plant leaves have emerged, usually in 6 – 10 weeks, they are clipped away from the original leaf and petiole. Some will reuse the original and replant, but I tend to discard and begin with a new one.
Plants being propagated by leaf cuttings. Photo Credit: University of Florida/IFAS
Next up is trying to propagate using a leaf without the petiole. This form of propagation can occur with plant that possess fleshy leaves that are thicker, with more energy to produce a new plant. The jade plant, snake plant and African violet are examples of plants that root and form new plants successfully in this way. Place a leaf or a piece of leaf vertically into a container filled with slightly damp plant media. Be sure the leaf midvein is placed into the soil as this will likely be the site of the new plant’s emergence.
Cane cuttings are yet another process for propagating a new plant. If you have ever grown a Dieffenbachia, better known as dumb cane or corn plant, they can become leggy and require staking to keep limbs from bending away from the center of the plant. If you look closely, you may see dormant adventitious buds (nodes). These buds will be the future leaf emergence area for the new plant. With a sharp clean knife cut remove a 6 – 10-inch section of the stem. The top leaf areas and smaller stem section can be removed and discarded.
Next, cut so that two stem sections are together with at least 2 nodes. Place the sections horizontally or vertically with the bottom third of the section indented into the potting media for go plant to soil contain. Make sure the node is facing upward. Once rooted with new leaves emerging, you may transplant them into a selected pot for future growth and establishment.
As mid to late spring arrives and the danger of frost passes, you can move the plants to a covered porch or under tall shade trees with filter sunlight for the summer and early fall. Enjoy creating new plants and maybe share a few with family and friends!
