by Carrie Stevenson | Oct 7, 2013
After severe weather of any kind, homeowners must often spend a considerable amount of time dealing with impacts to their landscapes. Below are a few lessons we have learned from hurricanes and tropical storms in the past. Many thanks to fellow agent Beth Bolles for her contributions to this article.
Dealing with Toppled Trees
It may be difficult to turn an uprooted favorite tree into firewood, but this is probably the best choice. A small or young tree may be replanted successfully if done immediately. These trees will require bracing for up to two years until the root systems regrow and are able to support themselves. If the roots have been exposed for an extended period of time, don’t try and save the tree. Exposed roots should be covered with soil or moist burlap for protection from drying out. Large or older trees will typically not survive this ordeal even with the best of care. Because the root system is compromised, attempting to keep the tree may create a hazard down the road with the next storm.
If a tree is completely uprooted, its odds of recovery are severely limited and it is best to remove the tree. Photo courtesy Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension
When removing fallen trees, think ahead about whether you plan to remove stumps. It’s a lot easier to pull instead of dig stumps out of the ground, so leave a four-foot stump to make your life easier. Be careful using power equipment like chain saws. It may be better to hire a professional to deal with removing large trees, especially around power lines.
Exposed Roots or Leaning Trees
Any exposed roots should be covered immediately. Cover roots with nearby soil at the same level roots were originally growing. Do not bank the soil higher because this will cut off oxygen supplies to roots in an already oxygen deprived, saturated soil.
If small trees are leaning and need straightening, they can be staked and treated like a newly planted tree. Larger trees with trunks greater than six inches in diameter can be saved but should be removed if they are a hazard to structures, power lines, or roadways. Reset the trees with stakes or guy wires for support. Trees with trunks measuring less than two inches in diameter can be supported with two or three forty-eight inch, two inch by two inch wood stakes placed one foot outside of the root ball inserted eighteen inches into the ground. Larger trees should be anchored with three or four guy wires or cables. Cover guy wires that are in contact with the trunk with rubber hoses to prevent damage.
A leaning, partially uprooted tree may recover if it is righted and its roots are covered back with soil. Photo courtesty Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension
Replace the soil around the area and firm to assure there are no air pockets around the roots. Make sure the top root coming off the trunk is level with the existing soil. If many trees were swaying back and forth during the wind, there may be air pockets underneath the trees. If this is obvious, add soil and water to eliminate any air pockets. If root damage is obvious, do not fertilize at this time because salts in the fertilizer may damage new feeder roots.
Broken Branches
Broken branches should be removed from trees and shrubs as soon as possible to prevent tearing into trunk wood. Make clean cuts just outside of the branch collar to avoid damaging the trunk. If these are large branches, make three separate cuts to prevent tearing. Make the first cut on the underside of the branch about fifteen inches from the trunk and one-third through the branch. The second cut is made from the top, a few inches out from the first cut. This cut should remove the weight of the branch so the next one will not rip the trunk. The remaining stub can be held while the last cut is made. Make the last cut just outside the branch bark ridge and end outside the trunk collar (swollen area on lower side of branch). This is not a flush cut with the trunk and should leave a small protrusion on the trunk. Do not use wound dressing on the cut surface, as this practice is no longer recommended.
If trees lost all of their branches, it is advisable to remove the tree. The natural shape is gone and trees like pines will typically not recover. Some trees may lose the majority of their leaves, but these will flush back out so they should be okay.
Repairing Lawns
Keep a close eye on lawns for disease problems due to all the rain. Brown patch and take-all root rot would be the major concerns. Rake and remove all debris to give lawns a chance to dry out. If lawn areas are damaged, now is the time to replace with plugs or sod so they can establish before winter. Sod webworms are bad now so don’t mistake this damage for diseases. If adult moths are obvious and grass blades are closely cropped, this is due to caterpillar damage…not disease.
Watering
Most soils are saturated and irrigation systems should be in the off-mode. If there is standing water around trees or in other low areas, use a hose to siphon water to a retention pond or a better-drained area. Once soils dry out and the sun comes out, keep a close eye on plants as they may require more frequent irrigation because of root damage. Coastal areas flooded with saltwater may experience damage from extended exposure to high salinity; it is recommended to run a sprinkler system to flush out a lawn after the water retreats.
If you have questions, contact your local UF IFAS Extension Office!
by Matthew Orwat | Sep 16, 2013
Azaleas pruned late in the fall will have little or no bloom in the spring. Image Credit: Matthew Orwat
Although Northwest Florida is well known for its beautiful Azalea displays every spring, many do not understand that these shows of bloom could be sacrificed completely by pruning at the wrong time.
Pruning Azaleas in the fall will result in a loss of spring bloom the following year because most bloom on previous years’ wood. This means that they flower on growth put on throughout the previous growing season. If a gardener removes the previous season’s new growth, they are removing the blooms as well.
Fall Pruned Azalea. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
So, when is the proper time to prune Azaleas? The ideal time to prune is directly after the spring bloom. This will give the plant enough time to generate abundant new growth, thus maximizing bloom next spring.
For more information on pruning Azaleas or on general Azalea culture, please read the UF / IFAS publication Azaleas at a Glance or check out the Pruning Azalea page on Gardening in a Minute.
by Carrie Stevenson | Jul 29, 2013
Few things move a local homeowner into action faster than a big storm moving into the Gulf of Mexico. After filling up at gas stations and running out to home improvement stores, many start trimming limbs and removing trees.
The destructive tornadoes in the Midwest this spring may cause anxiety about having mature trees in a yard. It is true that falling trees and limbs can cause damage to a home and property. However, it is wise to look closely at a landscape before making a permanent decision. It’s also important to do this before the stress of a looming storm is at hand. Trees are very important for providing shade (i.e. energy savings), wildlife habitat, storm-water management, and maintaining property values.
University of Florida / IFAS researchers have done long-term studies on the effects of wind on trees and landscapes, and several important lessons stand out. Keep in mind that reducing storm damage often starts at the landscape design / planning stage!
After a hurricane, piles of vegetative debris are common sights. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson
Below are several tips for protecting your home and landscape in case of a storm.
- Plant high-quality trees with single trunks and strong branches. Branch attachment angles can affect whether a large branch will split from a tree. Branches angling straighter out from a tree (wide angles) are stronger than those pointing almost directly up (tight angles).
“Florida fancy” is the best quality of tree, with quality decreasing to “cull” level. Notice the difference in branch angles and direction between each group. Figure courtesy FDACS, Division of Plant Industry
- Trees that have had regular pruning are less likely to fail than neglected trees. The UF horticulture website has detailed information on correct pruning, or you can contact your County Extension Agent for tips.
- Post-hurricane studies in North Florida show that Live Oak, Southern magnolia, Sabal Palm, and Bald Cypress stand up well compared to other trees during hurricanes. Pecan, Water and Laurel Oak, Carolina Cherry Laurel and Sand Pine were among the least wind resistant. UF has a list of trees and their hurricane endurance based on a study conducted after the 2004 hurricane season.
The classic Southern magnolia tree earns high marks in wind resistance. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson
- Plant a variety of species, ages and layers of trees to maintain diversity in the yard and neighborhood.- Trees with decayed trunks are very dangerous in winds. Disease causing decay can come up from the roots or enter through improper pruning cuts. Remove hazard trees before the wind does. Have a certified arborist inspect trees for signs of disease and decay. They are trained to provide advice on tree health.
- Watch pines carefully. Sometimes there is hidden damage and the tree declines over time. Look for signs of stress or poor health, such as unusual dark stains or small holes on trunks, dropping leaves, or piles of sawdust at the tree’s base. Check closely for insects. Weakened pines may be more susceptible to beetles and diseases. Long-leaf pines often survive storms in our area better than other species.
- Trees in a group (at least five) blow down less frequently than single trees.
- Trees should always be given plenty of room for roots to grow. Roots absorb nutrients, but they are also the anchors for the tree. If large trees are planted without enough space for roots to grow out in all directions, there is a likelihood that the tree may fall during high winds.
- Construction activities within about 20 feet from the trunk of existing trees can cause the tree to blow over more than 10 years later.
- When a tree is removed or dies, plant a new one in its place.
by Eddie Powell | Feb 15, 2013
As spring approaches, many gardeners get out the pruning shears and prune everything in sight. That might not be the best course of action! Take a look at these tips for flowering landscape shrubs to learn more about pruning techniques that will maximize amount of bloom.
Why Prune?
• Control plant size or form
• Remove damage (mechanical, disease, etc.)
• Prevent potential damage (overlapping branches, poor crotch angles, diseases, etc.
• Stimulate new growth (rejuvenate old plants, fill bare areas, increase flowering, etc.)
When to prune:
• Corrective pruning due to injury or dead tissue should be done as soon as evident.
• Avoid pruning from August 15 until plants are dormant.
• Most pruning should be done during the dormant season or immediately after flowering.
Rules of thumb:
• The “May Rule”.
• May defined if the plant blooms before May 1, prune immediately after flowering has ended (flowers produced on old wood or last year’s growth: Azaleas, Forsythia, etc.)
• If the plant blooms after May 1, prune during the dormant season (flowers produced on new growth: Crape Myrtles, Lilac Chaste tree, etc.).
• As with any rule there are exceptions: Oak leaf Hydrangea.
General rules of Pruning:
• Local in affect (usually within 6” of cut).
• Cuts should be made ¼” above a bud or to a crotch (Lateral branch).
• Cuts should be made at angles.
Pruning Equipment: (Make sure blades are sharp)
• Hand Snips (for small branches)
• Loppers (branches > 0.75” in diameter)
• Pruning Saw (limbs > 1.5” in diameter)
• Shears (for a more formal look)
• Pruning Knife (for clean-up)
Safe Pruning Principles:
• Keep equipment clean and in good repair.
• Appropriate, properly fitted safety equipment for job (eye and ear protection, no loose fitting clothes, etc.)
• Keep equipment within your control zone. Don’t over extend, know the limitations of your equipment and yourself.
• Know your surroundings (overhead utilities, other workers, etc.).
• Be able to identify Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, and other skin irritants.
Quick Tips to Remember:
• Pruning: Remove dead wood and seed pods annually during the dormant season.
• Size control should be done by cultivar selection, not by pruning.
• To promote a second set of flowers, prune away faded or spent flowers throughout the season.
For more information, click here for a UF / IFAS Extension publication on proper pruning techniques.
If you have any questions contact your local county extension agent.
by Eddie Powell – Walton County Extension Horticulture Agent
